Adam Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 Thanks Mark. I'll have to see what's in the box of bits - I've got plenty of V hangers and other bits around the place. The brake levers (4 off) are a unique shape so I'll have to adapt something, but at least with Paul Bartlett's pictures and the Cambrian instructions, I won't have to waste too much time working out where all the bits go which makes a nice change. Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andymozza Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 The next scratchbuilds (well barring a pair of coil carriers converted from Highs which are awaiting the inclination to get the soldering iron out) will be a pair of bogie coil carriers like these: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/coiltferry/h341bec27#h341bec27 . I've got as far as assembling the basic frames, but work on these will go on the back burner until I've got the appropriate Cambrian bogies to put them on. The lightening holes in the cradles put me in mind of your Tin HAL... Adam Hi Adam, since your having a go at the CoilK have you seen these http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/modelpageindex.html scroll down to the MORFA BANK SIDINGS WAGON GALLERY towards the bottom.There may be some constructional ideas for you. Andy. P.S I am enjoying watching your wagon building, very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 3, 2013 Author Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) Hi Adam, since your having a go at the CoilK have you seen these http://www.emgauge70s.co.uk/modelpageindex.html scroll down to the MORFA BANK SIDINGS WAGON GALLERY towards the bottom.There may be some constructional ideas for you. Andy. P.S I am enjoying watching your wagon building, very good. Thanks Andy. Yep, seen those, and very good they are too. There's a limit to the number of changes you can ring with plasticard wagon building so expect a degree of similarity. The Cambrian bogies for a start... the only real differences, I suspect will be that I'll do the hoods in the way that I've done my earlier wagons and fret the 'V' hangers from brass, glutton for punishment that I am. Adam Edited February 3, 2013 by Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted February 4, 2013 Share Posted February 4, 2013 Hi Adam, I really ike the work you have done on that bolster wagon. The chain rings are quite remarkable details. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Thanks Colin. The chain rings are the easy bit; making the insets into the deck was the tricky bit. The reason I went to the trouble, aside from the sheer fun of it, is that they should be functional and will in the fullness of time secure a load. I don't suppose anyone will notice, even though it'll be in plain sight, but I'll know and that's the point. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 (edited) While I remember, there is a picture of the current state of the first of two Coil Ks (batch production but I've only got the bogies for one at the mo'). The frames should be a bit deeper over the bogie centres I feel; there should certainly be less 'daylight' above the bogie frames and less of a contrast in depth - the 'shape' on the real thing is a bit more subtle than I've made it. Compare with this prototype picture: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/coiltferry/h341bec27#h341bec27 A bit of 20 thou' strip on the bottom of the frame to extend it downwards to meet the bogies will do the job. One of the perils of working from pictures and diagrams rather than proper measurements and drawings. Adam Edited April 4, 2013 by Adam 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 A minor update assuming people are interested. A solution to the oblong hole issue has been devised and it seems to work. I won't do it next time because a better option has occurred to me; I'll explain that in a minute. What I did in this instance was to file the end of a length of 2mm brass rod to a rectangular section, heat it on the gas ring and melt the previously drilled round holes into oblongs. Laborious and not all that tidy if truth be told, but since the bolsters on the real thing were subject to all kinds of rough treatment this can be easily hidden by distressing them later. What I should have done was to make the bolster tops from a laminate. First a layer of 40 thou, marked out and drilled at the appropriate centres, then apply a 20 thou' layer over the top from strip; two strips down either side, short lengths in the middle to match the holes. Fiddly? Yep, but it would look better. The 'deluxe' version, of course, would be to do the top in two layer of 10 thou' so that the metal 'socket' that exists on the real thing could be represented. In 4mm, life is far to short. Might be worth a go in 7mm though. Adam 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 In the odd five minutes I had to do bits and pieces I've turned my attention to the Cambrian Gloucester bogies which, while the one piece frames are a boon leave something to be desired in their overall appearance. The chief problem to my eyes are the bolsters above the springs which on the prototype stick out quite a distance. They're also rather crude and slightly lumpen in appearance.Here's the real thing: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/bogies/h20004d98#h20004d98And here's a three-quarter view which shows the amount by which the bolster casting protrudes: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbolsterd484/h2581317d#h2581317dAnd here are my modified efforts: Note that the plastic on top is merely there to bring the pivot hole down to the correct dimension. There are plenty of other things that could be done to these bogies if the mood were to take me but this, really is enough to get the overall 'look'. Adam 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted February 12, 2013 Share Posted February 12, 2013 I personally think you might have gone a bit far the other way, with the spring plank being a bit too prominent, but as ever 'its your trainset'. Have you considered the old type Cambrian Gloucester with the seperate springs and plank and inserting a packer between? The old design do have problems, not least of which is that the bearing holes are not in the right place on one sideframe, meaning that the axles won't be parallel if the bogie is built square, but there are ways around it - I did a little etch that makes liefe a little easier. Final design showing Gloucester ves Davis&Lloyd sideframe shape against an earlier design of etch. and as built I guess most people these days are happy with the one piece bogies. Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 12, 2013 Author Share Posted February 12, 2013 Maybe a smidge Jon, but now all has hardened off I can trim it back a bit with a sharp blade - perhaps 0.5mm - though to an extent I'm accommodating the slightly over-prominent axlebox covers. The Gloucester bogies weren't my first choice either but that's what Rural Railways had at the Southampton show so that's the variant I'm doing (I had the plate back roller bearing sort in mind; maybe next time). It's what was available and the older pattern weren't so it doesn't bother me especially. The springs and axlebox covers are separate mouldings and they're far from perfect whatever you do to them; the springs aren't nearly prominent enough for a start, there should be a cut out in the frame behind them and so on. The axles are parallel and they're reliably square without effort - which as you state, the old ones weren't - but they're representative and thus it's a trade off. They'll do. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 22, 2013 Author Share Posted February 22, 2013 More dodgy photos, but at least they show some progress in that the bolster pins and their retaining chains are fitted and a start has been made on the brakegear. The bolster pins are a typically neat etch from Masokits, laminated from two thin layers to form a much stronger unit than a single, thicker etch would be. The chains are simply lengths of twisted tinned copper wire with the rings at the end formed around a 1.5mm drill. These rings are then cut to loop them through the holes in the bolster pin. A touch to the soldering iron and there you are. A bit of a fiddle, but a detail well worth adding - the original can be seen here in this Paul Bartlett picture:http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbolsterd484/h2edcd928#h2edcd928The rivets are still to add... Finally, evidence of the brakegear; spare Parkside brake cylinders, etched V hangers from goodness knows where and the vac' pipe which, for whatever reason, was suspended from the underside of the chassis rather than bolted to it. Shown here:http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbolsterd484/h2edcd928#h2173d355 Adam 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Hi Adam, Always something of interest to look at here! Nice work on those bolsters, the chain effect is quite clever for such small links - I shall steal that idea one day. That suspended brake pipe is something unusual, on the model it looks commendably fine. Now, I must confess that the early Cambrian Gloucester bogies with the wonky axle bearing hole might have been my responsibilty -oops! (Mind you, it was nearly thirty years ago, but I seem to remember making an injection mould like that.) All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Now, I must confess that the early Cambrian Gloucester bogies with the wonky axle bearing hole might have been my responsibilty -oops! (Mind you, it was nearly thirty years ago, but I seem to remember making an injection mould like that.) All the best, Colin It caused me quite a scare when I firsat discovered it! I went straight to a production phototool, with no prototype and had several sheets etched - I then made the first of my new etch up and the first sideframe I tried was the faulty one - it took quite a long tome for me to work out what was wrong, and that the fault wasn't mine! The soultion is to use 'waisted' bearngs in my etch, then the sideframe can be fitted as it should be and nobody is any the wiser. Jon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 (edited) Mercifully, the 'one piece' (it isn't, much of the detail is seperate) bogie doesn't suffer this problem though I do wonder if it's a smidge on the wide side. No more on the bolster at the moment, but this parallel project took half an hour or so of my time before the Rugby yesterday morning. Lots of little brackets and door controllers. Door bangs still to add with capping clips and the brakegear. Probably another hour or so. Adam Edited February 26, 2013 by Adam 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Those chains are very neat, Adam. Fuse wire? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 24, 2013 Author Share Posted February 24, 2013 Those chains are very neat, Adam. Fuse wire? The same stuff but in this case tinned copper wire from an old phone cable (an offcut left behind by a sparky) twisted round a 1mm drill which forms the ring using a pinchuck. Pipe wagons don't have a whole lot of detail that isn't on the moulding but these were missing. Easy and well worth is. Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted February 24, 2013 Share Posted February 24, 2013 Great idea, have unfinished Pilchard, Sole, Minnow, ICI PXV's etc.........that need just such a solution - thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Hi Adam, Your Pipe wagon look great! Love the tiny door catch chains. The chassis seems to have been extended, so perhaps i have missed a post which explains why this was done. I suspect you have extended a shorter wheelbase underframe in order to get the right W-irons. Am I close in thinking that?! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 25, 2013 Author Share Posted February 25, 2013 Well spotted Colin; I haven't mentioned it (I think). You're almost right - the original solebars went as a donor to a model of a Conflat B (one of dad's models) leaving the body and much of the brakegear spare. I had a spare 10' wheelbase chassis so this seemed a sensible conjunction of parts. Ironically, the Conflat Bs were conversions of Pipe wagons, albeit with LNER clasp brakes. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldlugger Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Splendid work as usual Adam; all the wagons featured here are top notch representations of their respective prototypes. Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks Simon. Here's the completed wagon waiting for the thermometer to creep up a bit so I can give it a coat of primer. Back to the bogie bolster now... Adam 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks Simon. Here's the completed wagon waiting for the thermometer to creep up a bit so I can give it a coat of primer. Pipe1 001.gif Back to the bogie bolster now... Adam Now that is really nice Adam! Proper door springs and tie-bars too. There is a very good shot of one of these wagons Freshly painted in olive green taken at Hastings in 1977 on Paul Bartlett's website. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks Colin. The tie bars are brass angle for added durability and, given the amount of other work going on, I could hardly leave the safety loops on the brakes. In the course of this model I've established that there were at least 4 variations in brake gear, 3 patterns of rope cleat and enough assorted axle boxes and buffers to provide inspiration for another half dozen models. 1977 is about 10 years too late for my modelling really! This one will be in recently reprinted Freight Brown per a David Larkin photo. I might even load it; these were used as large highs by the mid 60s so something like cable drums might be in order. Or a container, or even pipes... Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted March 3, 2013 Share Posted March 3, 2013 Now that is really nice Adam! Proper door springs and tie-bars too. There is a very good shot of one of these wagons Freshly painted in olive green taken at Hastings in 1977 on Paul Bartlett's website. All the best, Colin There are 189 photos of BR pipes to choose from! http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brpipe Admittedly quite a lot are not the same prototype. A few are from the later 60s such as http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brpipe/eceeb1f1 Paul Bartlett 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 3, 2013 Author Share Posted March 3, 2013 Thanks Paul - very useful they proved in getting details right too. Adam Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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