Any Question Answered

[2mm Andy]

Fox Transfers also do some pre-grouping wagon transfers - LSWR, LBSC, SECR and MR.

 

Modelmaster (sold via the NGS or Terry Bloomfield) also produce GWR and Highland Railway wagon transfers in N/2mm.

 

Andy

[Boatman]

If you're sticking with N scale wheels, a 2mm finescale turnout would need some adjustment.

 

However, all is not lost, good looking N gauge track is available from http://www.britishfinescale.com

 

I would think a metre of their track plus an A5 turnout kit would be suitable.

 

Has the Tram loco kit been released yet?

 

Mark

Hi Mark,

showing my finescale only leanings, I was forgetting the loco kit is for one of Nev's standard N gauge chassis!  Doh!

 

Thanks for the info though.  It occurred to me that most of the track was buried like a real tramline anyway, so the fact that I found a long Peco N gauge point this very morning means I can do a reasonable rendering with fill-in and grass.

 

I think Nev has plenty of castings, but is so busy keeping up with chassis orders that he can't actually release any kits yet. He's at a show on the 13th up north somewhere (an 009 one I believe) and so can be questioned then.

 

Regards,

Boatman

[2mmMark]

Actually, on the W&U, a lot of the track was beside the road, buried only in weeds.  Some of it looked reasonably well kept.

 

It's one of my favourite lines, so I've got most, if not all, of the books on it. Quite hard to encapsulate in model form as that area is pretty wide open.  Upwell terminus occupied a huge area.

 

Outwell is quite modellable, there's at least one good 4mm model.

 

If you PM me with your postal address, I could send you some of the earlier 2mm Association moulded track bases plus some rail, for you to experiment with.

 

Mark

[Boatman]

Hi Mark,

that's very kind of you.

When I first lived here the track was still down in many areas, but it's all gone now. The bit I was thinking of doing was outside the old shop, facing the river and the track was well covered there.  I even remember the old yard (with the ancient coach) at Upwell, now known as the Emneth bypass!

 

My doctor holds court on the line of the exit from the terminus yard, but the station master's house is still there as is the shed at the Outwell basin end.

 

PM on its way.

 

Many thanks,

Boatman

Edited September 3, 2014 by Boatman

[Ref44]

Hello,

 

Has anyone had the wheels of a Dapol 45xx reprofiled, and if so were there any issues in reassembly? I'm coming back to 2mm/N due to domestic circumstances (serious reduction in space for a layout) and can see benefits in each standard given the existance of Finetrax. I would like to go FS, if I can get a kettle running without too much fiddling. My previous efforts predate the Dapol 45xx and 57xx.

 

Many thanks

 

Mike

[Crosland]

Any tips for straightening N-gauge coupling springs for use in Simpson springing?

 

I tried one farish one that kept snapping, using a technique I was taught for straightening connecting wire which is to stretch it slightly.

 

A Dapol one seemed more robust. I still ended up with a very loose spiral that I couldn't completely straighten out, but managed to complete the job at hand.

 

Would the 41SWG phosphor bronze wire from Eileen's be a better solution?

 

Andrew

[richbrummitt]

Would phosphor bronze wire from Eileen's be a better solution?

 

Yes. 

[queensquare]

Hello,

 

Has anyone had the wheels of a Dapol 45xx reprofiled, and if so were there any issues in reassembly? I'm coming back to 2mm/N due to domestic circumstances (serious reduction in space for a layout) and can see benefits in each standard given the existance of Finetrax. I would like to go FS, if I can get a kettle running without too much fiddling. My previous efforts predate the Dapol 45xx and 57xx.

 

Many thanks

 

Mike

 

To be honest I wouldn't bother. The chassis and wheels on the Dapol 45xx are pretty awful. If you really want a 45xx then the David Eveleigh replacement chassis kit is your best bet.

If you just want to get a steam loco running I would go with one of the simpler Association chassis kits or easier  still wait until the replacement bearings etc for the latest generation of Farish are available which will be as close to drop in replacements as we are likely to get.

 

Jerry

[nick_bastable]

To be honest I wouldn't bother. The chassis and wheels on the Dapol 45xx are pretty awful. If you really want a 45xx then the David Eveleigh replacement chassis kit is your best bet.

If you just want to get a steam loco running I would go with one of the simpler Association chassis kits or easier  still wait until the replacement bearings etc for the latest generation of Farish are available which will be as close to drop in replacements as we are likely to get.

 

Jerry

Have to agree I've had two Dapol converted by getting the  wheels turned down  neither went back together to run with any success,   they look very pretty but they appear to glue them together !

[Ref44]

Jerry,

 

Many thanks, I've got a Bachmann 37 which has 2mm FS wheels. I will use that for track testing, and have a look at the Farish products. May I enquire as to whether the same advice pertains to the Dapol Pannier?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

[queensquare]

Jerry,

 

Many thanks, I've got a Bachmann 37 which has 2mm FS wheels. I will use that for track testing, and have a look at the Farish products. May I enquire as to whether the same advice pertains to the Dapol Pannier?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

I have a Dapol pannier to do. I haven't taken it apart yet but it runs quite nicely and I believe is split chassis so may be reasonably easily convertible. I believe there is a thread on converting, or at least dismantling it somewhere.

 

Jerry

[Ref44]

Jerry,

 

Thanks again

 

Mike

[Valentin]

[...]

 

Would the 41SWG phosphor bronze wire from Eileen's be a better solution?

 

Andrew

 

 I have always used, and still use, 41SWG (0.112 mm - 0.0044") P/B wire from Eileen's Emporium with great results!

Edited September 8, 2014 by Valentin

[Chris Higgs]

I have a Dapol pannier to do. I haven't taken it apart yet but it runs quite nicely and I believe is split chassis so may be reasonably easily convertible. I believe there is a thread on converting, or at least dismantling it somewhere.

 

Jerry

 

It is my post and only covers dismantling. Ian Morgan has kindly drawn me some 3D CAD for gears on muffs (as he did for the Terrier) and I shall be getting these printed at Shapeways to see if they work. And I have an idea for replacement bearings.

 

Chris

[Chris Higgs]

I have a Dapol pannier to do. I haven't taken it apart yet but it runs quite nicely and I believe is split chassis so may be reasonably easily convertible. I believe there is a thread on converting, or at least dismantling it somewhere.

 

Jerry

 

It is my post and only covers dismantling. Ian Morgan has kindly drawn me some 3D CAD for gears on muffs (as he did for the Terrier) and I shall be getting these printed at Shapeways to see if they work. And I have an idea for replacement bearings.

 

Chris

[Crosland]

Problems with pin vices.

 

I have a (cheap) Eclipse branded set from a local tool shop that are, frankly, rubbish. An Expo one with four collets, also poor and a set of 4 "English Pattern" from Eileen's that are marginally better. None of them are really very good at gripping drill bits.

 

It seems to me the problem is the way the "chuck" is formed by cutting two perpendicular slots in the end. When you tighten the collar it only squeezes then very tips together. In a 3-jaw drill chuck the faces of the jaws remain parallel and grip along the length of the bit.

 

So, is there such a thing as a pin chuck with something more like a miniature drill chuck? Would Eileen's TLSMC01 Mini chuck be any better? It's difficult to tell from the picture.

 

[Edit] Should I be looking for a pin chuck rather than a pin vice? This looks like it may be better http://uk.farnell.com/eclipse/160/pin-chuck/dp/442926

 

Andrew

Edited September 24, 2014 by Crosland

[Izzy]

Problems with pin vices.

 

I have a (cheap) Eclipse branded set from a local tool shop that are, frankly, rubbish. An Expo one with four collets, also poor and a set of 4 "English Pattern" from Eileen's that are marginally better. None of them are really very good at gripping drill bits.

 

It seems to me the problem is the way the "chuck" is formed by cutting two perpendicular slots in the end. When you tighten the collar it only squeezes then very tips together. In a 3-jaw drill chuck the faces of the jaws remain parallel and grip along the length of the bit.

 

So, is there such a thing as a pin chuck with something more like a miniature drill chuck? Would Eileen's TLSMC01 Mini chuck be any better? It's difficult to tell from the picture.

 

[Edit] Should I be looking for a pin chuck rather than a pin vice? This looks like it may be better http://uk.farnell.com/eclipse/160/pin-chuck/dp/442926

 

Andrew

 

This is a problem I had for many years, also finding that all types of 'miniature' drill chucks/pin vices couldn't hold drills properly or firmly. All those you mention also have the simple split collets, and the Eclipse ones meant for use in a lathe are no better than any others.

 

Eventually I solved it by using a larger sized mini-drill chuck with a home made shaft and end pad culled from another pin vice tryout. These chucks are smaller versions of 'proper' chucks and I have found quite capable of holding drills down to 0.3mm -  the smallest size I use. Expo tools sell a couple of different types on their own, one with a hexagon end and a plain chuck for fitting to your own threaded shaft. Look under the mini drill section/miniature chucks.

 

The only issue is that the chucks are a bit bigger and heavier than a pin vice, and you need to make up your own handle. Anyway here's a few shots, it might give you some ideas. It's all I have ever used since I made it back in the 1980's, and like then the same designs and types of pin vice are still around.......

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see a 0.3mm drill can look a bit small in the chuck.

 

 

Izzy

[Ian Smith]

Problems with pin vices.

 

I have a (cheap) Eclipse branded set from a local tool shop that are, frankly, rubbish. An Expo one with four collets, also poor and a set of 4 "English Pattern" from Eileen's that are marginally better. None of them are really very good at gripping drill bits.

 

It seems to me the problem is the way the "chuck" is formed by cutting two perpendicular slots in the end. When you tighten the collar it only squeezes then very tips together. In a 3-jaw drill chuck the faces of the jaws remain parallel and grip along the length of the bit.

 

So, is there such a thing as a pin chuck with something more like a miniature drill chuck? Would Eileen's TLSMC01 Mini chuck be any better? It's difficult to tell from the picture.

 

[Edit] Should I be looking for a pin chuck rather than a pin vice? This looks like it may be better http://uk.farnell.com/eclipse/160/pin-chuck/dp/442926

 

Andrew

Andrew,

 

In the past I have put a plastic sleeve from multi-core wire around the drill shaft to enable the chuck to grip a little better.  It probably has a little give in it too so may prevent the drill bit snapping too.

 

Ian

[Crosland]

Thanks fro the thoughts.

 

I do have a small chuck with a hex shaft that fits a drill driver but it will not go down to 0.3mm drills. I will investigate the others.

 

I'll also try the sleeving method.

 

Andrew

[2mmMark]

I've got a couple of pin vices/chucks which avoid this problem by having interchangeable collet inserts of different sizes.  This allows the slots to be shorter and close down more effectively on smaller drill sizes.

 

Mark

[Crosland]

On the subject of small drills can anyone explain the price difference for 0.3mm HSS bits between Chronos at 72p and Eileen's at £5.60? Is there really a vast difference in quality?

 

Andrew

[Ian Smith]

On the subject of small drills can anyone explain the price difference for 0.3mm HSS bits between Chronos at 72p and Eileen's at £5.60? Is there really a vast difference in quality?

 

Andrew

 

Andrew,

 

I really have no idea!!  I have bought quite a few drills from Chronos (normally buy the really small ones in 10's or more).  I have had no issues with them except that I do sometimes overwork them and break the little devils (usually breaking the very last one when I'm trying to get something done on a deadline) :-)  Incidentally, I don't throw the broken shafts away as they can be sharpened to a D bit which can be used in plasticard quite happily (in fact at a push I have used them on brass or nickel silver too).

 

Ian

[Crosland]

Am I correct in thinking that the chassis assembly jigs have a fixed width central spacer, so uing thicker than intended frame material will increase the external width over the frames?

 

Are they supplied as a set of two as shown in the shop photo, or does "each" really mean each?

 

Andrew

[2mm Andy]

Am I correct in thinking that the chassis assembly jigs have a fixed width central spacer, so uing thicker than intended frame material will increase the external width over the frames?

 

Are they supplied as a set of two as shown in the shop photo, or does "each" really mean each?

 

Andrew

 

As sold, the chassis assembly jigs (3-270) have central sections which are 6.4mm wide (matching the pcb spacer strip sold in the shop). The dimensions in the yearbook suggest that this dimension works well with 0.7mm thick frames. If you use etched frames (typically 0.25mm thick) you will end-up with a thinner than normal frame assembly if you use the jig as sold, which is why Bob Jones' etched chassis come with etched fold-up box spacers to replace the centre section of the jigs (so that the overall width of the frame assembly does not increase).

 

They are supplied as a set of two.

 

Andy

Edited October 8, 2014 by 2mm Andy

[cornish trains jez]

Hi,

 

I recently bought a PRA China clay wagon body from shapeways and was wondering if anyone could tell me which chassis would be the most appropriate. I've had a look through the chassis in the association shop but I can't see a good match. Anyone have any ideas on which would be the most fitting?

Thanks in advance.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy