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I have another question. What is the wheelbase of the PECO collet? I know what it should be but I would like to know what PECO made thiers.

 

 

I don't have a PECO chassis (I suspect that we both just bought bodies) but I can measure the association replacement later if no-one beats me to posting the information.

 

As an aside have you seen Kevin Robertson's new book?

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Hello :)

 

I have another question. What is the wheelbase of the PECO collet? I know what it should be but I would like to know what PECO made thiers.

 

Thank you.

 

Missy :)

 

Hi Julia,

 

The 2251 uses the standard Swindon wheelbase of 7' 3" + 8' 3" which at 1:152 is 14.5mm + 16.5mm. At 1:148 it works out at, pretty much, 15mm + 17mm. I only have the Peco body at present but measuring the centres of the leading and middle splashers seems to correspond with the 15mm measurement. The whole of the rear splasher is not visible due to the cab but my vernier seems to guesstimate it to be 17mm. Peco, as inventors of the (in)famous 'British N' seem generally to take their responsibilities seriously when it comes to 1:148.

Hope this helps. 

 

David

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Thank you David.

 

That is very useful. I will have to check my 2mmSA 'standard' etched coupling rods when I get home to see if there is anything near that otherwise its onto the CAd to get some etched. Just so I know the 17mm measurement is from the front of the engine?

 

M :)

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Thank you David.

 

That is very useful. I will have to check my 2mmSA 'standard' etched coupling rods when I get home to see if there is anything near that otherwise its onto the CAd to get some etched. Just so I know the 17mm measurement is from the front of the engine?

 

M :)

 

Hi Julia,

 

Wheelbases are usually quoted from front to back, so leading axle to middle axle is 15mm then middle to rear is 17mm.

 

Great Western standardisation is a great help. The rods for the Farish 57xx on the Associations's Farish conversion etch (3-205) measure . . . 15mm + 17mm!

 

By the way, you may still wish to make your own. The Great Western standardisation/idiosyncrasy led them to use 'fish-belly' rods which means that the top and bottom surfaces of the rods describe a gentle arc to their profile. Sadly (!) the Association rods do not have this feature . . .

 

David

Edited by DavidLong
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I measure 18.1mm and 20.0mm respectively over the muffs, which gives centres of 14.9mm and 16.8mm. The holes in the bearings are oversize at 1.6mm though so some error is likely to have crept in so you should be safe using the association 15+17 rods. Making them a little shaped is not difficult. Generally speaking great western rods are NOT fluted so the plain side should show. There are, of course, exceptions.

 

Kevin had a healthy stack of the books at Southampton yesterday. Based on the due date in his current catalogue it must be very recent.

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I have just joined the 2mm Association (for access to the code 40 rail if I'm honest). I am currently looking into making my own track to N gauge standards but am having huge problems finding track gauges. My main reservation with going 2mm is my reluctance to attempt a Loco build. I am looking to go with early 80's as the era for my layout so my question is as follows:

 

Has anyone attempted the conversion of a Graham Farish Class 411 EMU to 2mm standards? If I can have one converted loco to 2mm standards in working order it will tip the scales (in my mind) towards building my entire layout to 2mm standards and will hopefully pick up the loco and rolling stock building skills as time goes by. I don't currently have any Locos or rolling stock for this era at present so can go either way.

 

Pete

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I have just joined the 2mm Association (for access to the code 40 rail if I'm honest). I am currently looking into making my own track to N gauge standards but am having huge problems finding track gauges. My main reservation with going 2mm is my reluctance to attempt a Loco build. I am looking to go with early 80's as the era for my layout so my question is as follows:

 

Has anyone attempted the conversion of a Graham Farish Class 411 EMU to 2mm standards? If I can have one converted loco to 2mm standards in working order it will tip the scales (in my mind) towards building my entire layout to 2mm standards and will hopefully pick up the loco and rolling stock building skills as time goes by. I don't currently have any Locos or rolling stock for this era at present so can go either way.

 

Pete

Pete

 

association wheel turner has converted 2 of these for me already  the centre coaches run on 2mm 7mm wheels 

 

post-1480-0-01393300-1390945057_thumb.jpg

Edited by nick_bastable
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Is there an accepted minimum radius? I am aware that the choice of stock makes a difference, but is there a general rule? I didn't see anything in the yearbook about radii.

 

Generally speaking, 24" is the consensus, but if you want to run large tender locos (eg. LMS pacifics) and long coaches, then 30" would probably be sensible. Conversely, you could probably run 4w stock and shunting locos around 18" curves without too many problems. There some information in the old handbook, downloadable from the members area of the 2mm website.

 

Andy

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600mm or 2' is a good acceptable minimum although stock can be built to run around smaller radii. John Greenwood, for example, has a mimimum radius of 18", roughly 450mm and happily runs locos as large as Bulleid pacifics.

 

Jerry

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Are there any members groups in the north Kent area? I am reluctant to re wheel my first loco so either need my hand held or the contact details of a professional willing to under take the task. The loco in question is a Graham Farish Class 411 which I intend to use as a test loco for my track as it is built. The loco in brand new in the box so I am incredibly reluctant to undertake the task without some guidance as I take my first step into the unknown. Any guidance or contact details for a reputable pro would be greatly appreciated.

 

Pete

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Are there any members groups in the north Kent area? I am reluctant to re wheel my first loco so either need my hand held or the contact details of a professional willing to under take the task. The loco in question is a Graham Farish Class 411 which I intend to use as a test loco for my track as it is built. The loco in brand new in the box so I am incredibly reluctant to undertake the task without some guidance as I take my first step into the unknown. Any guidance or contact details for a reputable pro would be greatly appreciated.

 

Pete

Pete

 

there is also a area Group south of you near Canterbury where I can show you  a comverted CEP using turned wheels

 

Nick

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[...]

 

Do you have any details for this group please Andy?

 

Pete

 

All details in the Yearbook:

 

Kent and Essex Area Group: Regular meetings on the 2nd Sunday each month from 1pm-5pm, at the small meeting room attached to St Michaels & All Angels Churh, Church Hill, Wilmington, Dartford, Kent.

 

So, their next meeting is on Sunday, 9th February.

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Are there any members groups in the north Kent area? I am reluctant to re wheel my first loco so either need my hand held or the contact details of a professional willing to under take the task. The loco in question is a Graham Farish Class 411 which I intend to use as a test loco for my track as it is built. The loco in brand new in the box so I am incredibly reluctant to undertake the task without some guidance as I take my first step into the unknown. Any guidance or contact details for a reputable pro would be greatly appreciated.

 

Pete

The Kent & Essex Group meets next Sunday (9th) 1pm to 5pm (and monthly every 2nd Sunday thereafter) at St.Michaels & All Angels Church hall, Wilmington DA2 7EH. It is listed in the Forthcoming Events section of the Association Website where a link to map can be found.

Turn into Church Hill from the Dartford-Horton Kirby road, the road goes uphill and the church is on the right - the hall is through the churchyard just the other side of the main church building entrance. Just beware of parking on any double yellows!

The meetings are supported by many "names" from 2mm and also the local N gauge Society jointly attends.

Edited by autocoupler942
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Hello 2mm modellers,

 

I'm working on some 3-Subs and need to make or source guard irons (if that's the correct term - I'm referring to the vertical 'T' irons which protect leading bogies / wheels from obstructions on the track).

 

I'm working in N gauge rather than 2mm I'm afraid, but thought you fine ladies and gentlemen may have some ideas.

 

I have skimmed the 2mm Association and N gauge Society websites, and a few retailers as well, but couldn't spot anything obvious.

 

Similarly I searched for T section brass across popular retailers but couldn't find anything small enough.

 

Perhaps I'm just not looking in the right places? Or haven't been observant enough?

 

Many thanks in advance for any suggestions offered.

 

Mark

Edited by Southernboy
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Yes, I'm in Medway so it's only 20 minutes up the road from me :D

 

Do you have any details for this group please Andy?

 

Pete

 

Pete,

 

Valentin and Andrew have beaten me to it with the details of the Kent and Essex Group. Hope you can make it to the meeting - I'm sure you'll get some help with dismantling the loco.

 

Andy

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