Any Question Answered

[itsthegman]

Hi Newbie Question,

 

When i order replacement axles from the 2mmFS society for my wagon stock is it a case of taking out the old measuring the length overall and ordering that size?.

 

Thanks,

[Caley Jim]

Hi Newbie Question,

 

When i order replacement axles from the 2mmFS society for my wagon stock is it a case of taking out the old measuring the length overall and ordering that size?.

 

Thanks,

That's basically correct.  As I understand it (not having any converted rtr stock) the manufacturers use different length axles and don't even seem to have been consistent themselves, so the same make of stock can have different axle lengths.  If you can't get the exact axle length you should get the next longest and gently deepen the bearing holes with a drill until the axles fit, but I stand to be corrected on that.

 

Jim

[Chris Higgs]

That's basically correct.  As I understand it (not having any converted rtr stock) the manufacturers use different length axles and don't even seem to have been consistent themselves, so the same make of stock can have different axle lengths.  If you can't get the exact axle length you should get the next longest and gently deepen the bearing holes with a drill until the axles fit, but I stand to be corrected on that.

 

Jim

 

Certainly better a little too long than a little too short. A stroke of a file on our sharp pinpoints can easily shorten them a bit, and can be benficial as very sharp pinpoints have been known to eat into plastic axleboxes.

 

Too short and they just fall out. If you have a lot to do it's best to order a couple of wheels to test first.

 

Chris

[Crosland]

Too short and they just fall out. If you have a lot to do it's best to order a couple of wheels to test first.

 

If nothing come close you could also try adding association bearings to the chassis to take up some of the slack in shorter axles. I haven't tried it...

[CF MRC]

One of the problems with all these new commercial models is the huge variability in axle length, even from the same manufacturer. I have some of the Farish bogie wagons for the WW1 tanks that are close to acting as spirit levels when fitted with Association wheels. Other Farish wheel replacements are much less free running. One trick to try, if the emplacement wheels are a touch tight, is to squeeze the axle boxes in a vice over the replacement pinpoints and form a new, looser, bearing surface in the plastic moulding.

 

Tim

[Chris Higgs]

If nothing come close you could also try adding association bearings to the chassis to take up some of the slack in shorter axles. I haven't tried it...

 

I have in the past. It is extremely difficult to get right. Getting the bearings in is OK, but getting them to a consistent spacing to match the axles is another story.

 

Chris

[PaulCheffus]

I have in the past. It is extremely difficult to get right. Getting the bearings in is OK, but getting them to a consistent spacing to match the axles is another story.

 

Chris

Hi

 

I've done it many times using the original Peco chassis with the N gauge wheels on the 12.25mm axles.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Izzy]

I now also use 12.25's and bearings to replace wheels in Farish chassis. I found that this was the only feasible way of converting some farish freightliner flats and overcomes the varying axle lengths farish stock now seems to have, no two being quite the same. To get the right bearing distance I have found it's best to locate the bearings in plasticard squares as spacers, using different thickness as needed.

 

Izzy

[cornish trains jez]

Hi,

 

Quick question: I need to replace wheel sets on my Dapol BR MK3 coaching stock, do I just use the association 7mm plain disc wheels 12.25mm? Will i need to use top hat axle bearings as well or will they work without?

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

[Izzy]

Hi,

 

Quick question: I need to replace wheel sets on my Dapol BR MK3 coaching stock, do I just use the association 7mm plain disc wheels 12.25mm? Will i need to use top hat axle bearings as well or will they work without?

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

I'm not quite sure if this is totally correct, but I believe all coachng stock past the Mk1's (but including these with B4 bogies), use smaller 3'0" dia wheels rather than the older size 3'7", so the under-sized 6mm dia wheels most N coaching stock has historically been given are the size you actually want in this case. Would think standard 15.2mm axles are also what you want, no bearings.

 

Izzy

[cornish trains jez]

I'm not quite sure if this is totally correct, but I believe all coachng stock past the Mk1's (but including these with B4 bogies), use smaller 3'0" dia wheels rather than the older size 3'7", so the under-sized 6mm dia wheels most N coaching stock has historically been given are the size you actually want in this case. Would think standard 15.2mm axles are also what you want, no bearings.

 

Izzy

 

Thanks Izzy. I can't find any 6mm wheels in the coach/loco association shop so could I use the 6mm plain disc wagon wheels from the freight stock shop?

[Izzy]

Thanks Izzy. I can't find any 6mm wheels in the coach/loco association shop so could I use the 6mm plain disc wagon wheels from the freight stock shop?

 

I can't see why not, in fact I think I remember someone saying that's what they were meant for when introduced, to represent modern day disc braked stock wheels.

 

Izzy

[Chris Higgs]

Hi,

 

Quick question: I need to replace wheel sets on my Dapol BR MK3 coaching stock, do I just use the association 7mm plain disc wheels 12.25mm? Will i need to use top hat axle bearings as well or will they work without?

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Best regards,

 

Jeremy

 

I think I used the 6mm wheels with 15.25mm axles. You lose the pickup capability this way though. You could also get the wheels turned down by the Association service.

 

Chris

[DavidLong]

You could also get the wheels turned down by the Association service.

 

Chris

Agreed. Gordon can turn down any metal rolling stock wheels and reset the back-to-backs.

 

David

[DavidLong]

I've noticed that rail is a very small section and is often bent or curved. Anyone got any ideas on how to straighten it out? I'm thinking I've seen some rollers somewhere, but can't remember where that was.

To illustrate the problem that Tim was talking about I've attached a photo of some of the lengths that I have. These are some of the better ones and I have many other lengths which are much worse. This is looking at the rails side-on and most of them describe various forms of curve. In 2mm scale, even more than larger scales, it is essential to provide a reasonably flat top to the track as an aid to good current collection. The rail is pretty much straight along its length (which if it wasn't is fairly easy to correct) but in the vertical plane is anything but straight.

The rail is all nickel Code 40 bullhead from either the Association or Marcway. They have all been stored in a tube in which I received one of the consignments.

It's a rubbish photo 'cos its quite difficult to photograph but I think you get the idea.

 

 

David

[Caley Jim]

You can straighten it in the same way as described before by drawing it between finger and thumb, but keeping it upright, rather than on its side.  To be honest, I wouldn't be too concerned about any of these lengths, other than perhaps the third and fourth from the top.   If you are using Easitrak, then as long as you ensure that the track is well glued down to a flat trackbed, the rail will be held level.  Likewise, using pcb sleepers, just make sure that the rail is securely soldered to each sleeper and/or chairplate and that the sleepers are securely glued down.   In my experience, track doesn't need to be dead level to the last thou, indeed can you ever ensure that it is, or that it will stay that way?  My advice is not to get too hung up about this.

 

Jim

[Tim V]

Following my previous comments, I made this jig for straightening rails. A couple of brass rods pushed into a couple of holes in a block of wood. By experimenting with the distance apart, I successfully was able to straighten some very dodgy pieces of rail in both horizontal and vertical plane. Don't use it too often, I deformed the rail head by being over zealous.

[DavidLong]

Following my previous comments, I made this jig for straightening rails. A couple of brass rods pushed into a couple of holes in a block of wood. By experimenting with the distance apart, I successfully was able to straighten some very dodgy pieces of rail in both horizontal and vertical plane. Don't use it too often, I deformed the rail head by being over zealous.

IMG_7253.JPG

Thanks, Tim. As a matter of interest, what diameter are the rods? I may give this a try.

 

David

[Tim V]

David

 

5.5mm, 1/4" would probably do as well. It was just what was to hand.

[Jim T]

Has anyone finescaled a Farish Class 31 yet?

 

Wondered whether anyone had weighed up the various options (turned Farish wheels, Association drop in wheels) and whether anyone had tried to replicate the smaller carrying wheels?

 

I'd got as far as identifying that the driving wheels are 3'7" dia (so 7.17mm) and the carrying wheels 3'3½" dia (6.58mm). Perhaps there's scope to use 3-071 7.0mm dia drop-ins for the driven wheels and 3-053 6.5mm disc tender wheels for the carrying axle, but I'm not sure whether the muff on the tender wheels would fit?

 

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

This was the first loco I ever took a 35mm picture of and it's high time I had a model. The camera was a brand new Ricoh KR-10 which was my 11th birthday present - how lucky was I! It's a shame I hadn't learned to expose for the shadows back then... Hopefully the photo will appear below:

 

Edited November 20, 2015 by Jim T

[Izzy]

Has anyone finescaled a Farish Class 31 yet?

 

Wondered whether anyone had weighed up the various options (turned Farish wheels, Association drop in wheels) and whether anyone had tried to replicate the smaller carrying wheels?

 

I'd got as far as identifying that the driving wheels are 3'7" dia (so 7.17mm) and the carrying wheels 3'3½" dia (6.58mm). Perhaps there's scope to use 3-071 7.0mm dia drop-ins for the driven wheels and 3-053 6.5mm disc tender wheels for the carrying axle, but I'm not sure whether the muff on the tender wheels would fit?

 

Any thoughts appreciated.

 

This was the first loco I ever took a 35mm picture of and it's high time I had a model. The camera was a brand new Ricoh KR-10 which was my 11th birthday present - how lucky was I! It's a shame I hadn't learned to expose for the shadows back then... Hopefully the photo will appear below:

 

31240-Skipton-19810299.jpg

 

Is this the new version or the older one? The previous one needs 7mm drop-in-wheels (if I remember correctly), but the new type has two different sizes with only the outer wheels powered, as per the prototype. As with other diesels Bachmann-Farish have also moved over to using correctly sized wheels (for 1:148) for each loco type which makes choosing the best wheel size more awkward.

 

You can get the wheels turned but I always prefer steel rims where possible so I used 2mm SA drop-in ones. The actual wheels sizes are 7.35mm and 6.75, the prototype being 43" and 39.5". The correct sizes for 2mm would be 7.18mm and 6.6mm but since it is a N size model I though using 7.5mm and 7.0mm would be a decent compromise since there are non-geared 7.0mm drop-in wheels available, which are needed for the middle axles, 7.0mm/6.5mm look undersized in the loco (I did try the sizes).

 

Due to the different wheel sizes I did find the need to spring the middle axles to ensure they stayed firmly on the track. It also needs the pick-ups paring back behind the middle axles otherwise there is continuous shorting. These adaptions would not be needed with just getting the original wheels turned. I may throw those on the second 31 I have at the lathe and see what results. Apart from steel rims the added advantage of the drop-in wheels is the brass gears on the axle. No gear splitting as still seems to happen on Farish stuff at times.

 

I will try and sort out a few shots of the conversion and post them here, I'd totally forgotten about it as it's a while ago now since they came out and I first did it.

 

Izzy

Edited November 20, 2015 by Izzy

[Jim T]

That's great, thanks Izzy.

 

It's the new one. I'd forgotten about ensuring the wheel size matches the 1:148 proportions not proper 2mm scale!

 

I'll have a think. I may have a shot at getting the original wheels turned just to see how they "turn" out and save messing about with springing / pick ups. On the other hand I have the Asscoiation drop in wheels in my 25 and they are beautifully engineered and run well (at least on my 2' of Easitrack and the rolling road - is there anyone out there in Shropshire with a layout I can test on?)

 

Jim

[Izzy]

Okay, here's how I did it... follow at your own risk!!

 

Here's the original bogie. You can see the quite obvious size difference between the driven and carry wheels.

 

 

The 2mm SA wheels look just slightly better don't they? Provision of these is I think a real credit to the association, but then perhaps I'm slightly biased.

 

 

This is the original bogie, and how you have to cut the pick-ups to clear the axle boss on the rear of the middle wheel sets. The wheels are insulated at the axle join, so if both bosses touch the pick-ups it's an instant short across the axle.The bosses are spacers to ensure limited sideplay when the wheels are dropped into a Farish bogie and work fine except in this particular case.

 

 

 

 

 

I sprung the middle axle using 9thou guitar wire, which I normally use for handrails. It's just about the right size and strength to keep the wheels/axle down but not prevent easy rotation. They are after all only carry wheels and in this case just really go along for the ride, not taking any weight as per the real thing. It's formed as a U shape and bending it over inside holds it all in place, no glue or anything required. It needs cutting as short as possible and folding over the axle ( so bending down to the floor), otherwise it would catch/jam in the gear train.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a comparison between the conversion, in green, and an original. The ride height difference is negliable as far as I can tell. Using smaller wheels might make it too low.

 

 

 

 

You will notice the upper lining is disintergrating, again. It did this within a week of purchase. I had already added separate handrails on the front as well as DG's so couldn't send it back. I wasn't impressed, or with the low quality of the etched roof fan detail. Although it's got some modest improvements over the older version, if you have one don't rush to replace it. The blue one is better than the green, so some of it might be production differences, (the blue body is a different/changed moulding). Only my views of course, but a let down after waiting so long for them to arrive. I have replace the lining with transfer lining - twice so far - and it seems nothing will stick to the basic body moulding. Yet the bottom line and front yellow panels are fine, go figure...

 

Anyway, hope this helps anyone thinking about drop-in wheel conversions for these 31's.

 

Izzy

[Chris Higgs]

Okay, here's how I did it... follow at your own risk!!

 

Here's the original bogie. You can see the quite obvious size difference between the driven and carry wheels.

 

IMG_3589 for web.jpg

 

The 2mm SA wheels look just slightly better don't they? Provision of these is I think a real credit to the association, but then perhaps I'm slightly biased.

 

IMG_3592 for web.jpg

 

This is the original bogie, and how you have to cut the pick-ups to clear the axle boss on the rear of the middle wheel sets. The wheels are insulated at the axle join, so if both bosses touch the pick-ups it's an instant short across the axle.The bosses are spacers to ensure limited sideplay when the wheels are dropped into a Farish bogie and work fine except in this particular case.

 

 

IMG_3600 for web.jpg

 

 

IMG_3601 for web.jpg

 

I sprung the middle axle using 9thou guitar wire, which I normally use for handrails. It's just about the right size and strength to keep the wheels/axle down but not prevent easy rotation. They are after all only carry wheels and in this case just really go along for the ride, not taking any weight as per the real thing. It's formed as a U shape and bending it over inside holds it all in place, no glue or anything required. It needs cutting as short as possible and folding over the axle ( so bending down to the floor), otherwise it would catch/jam in the gear train.

 

IMG_3607 for web.jpg

 

 

IMG_3606 for web.jpg

 

 

IMG_3608 for web.jpg

 

 

Here's a comparison between the conversion, in green, and an original. The ride height difference is negliable as far as I can tell. Using smaller wheels might make it too low.

 

 

IMG_3887 for web.jpg

 

 

You will notice the upper lining is disintergrating, again. It did this within a week of purchase. I had already added separate handrails on the front as well as DG's so couldn't send it back. I wasn't impressed, or with the low quality of the etched roof fan detail. Although it's got some modest improvements over the older version, if you have one don't rush to replace it. The blue one is better than the green, so some of it might be production differences, (the blue body is a different/changed moulding). Only my views of course, but a let down after waiting so long for them to arrive. I have replace the lining with transfer lining - twice so far - and it seems nothing will stick to the basic body moulding. Yet the bottom line and front yellow panels are fine, go figure...

 

Anyway, hope this helps anyone thinking about drop-in wheel conversions for these 31's.

 

Izzy

 

Is there any slop on the centre axle? As I recall those non-geared axles were made to fit into a Peak as the trailing wheels, and have a smaller axle diameter then the geared ones.

 

Chris

[Jim T]

Great, thanks Izzy

 

I'll get the wheel sets ordered and take it from there.

 

Jim