Any Question Answered

[Donw]

I think for exhibition use a traintable is more use as you don't have to keep moving cassettes about which can be a nuisance at a show especially if people are talking to you. For a home layout it wouldn't matter so much. Of course if you are running a scenario like Jim it would need cassettes you could attach in different places. I would suggest some form of table is advisable as if something were to run off the cassette it would be a disaster if it fell to the floor. 

I nearly had a nasty shock when I realised my 0 gauge ABC power loco would roll at a slight incline and started to do so as  turned the cassette only the fact my hand was over the end stopped a serious accident.

Don

[Caley Jim]

...... I would suggest some form of table is advisable as if something were to run off the cassette it would be a disaster if it fell to the floor. 

 

That's why I make all my cassettes with'end doors' which slide between two strips of 40thou and have a stop at the top so that it is difficult to remove them completely.  It just becomes a habit to always shut the doors.

 

Jim

[Chris Higgs]

Does anyone know of a source of 6mm diameter coreless motors that are longer than usual. I am thinking of building one of my Black 5 replacement chassis for the Farish body and using a motor in the loco rather than the tender. Farish only left a width of 6mm in the body cavity so the new Farish 7mm coreless will not fit (unless I were to drop it down between the frames). But the cavity is very long so I was thinking if there was a 6mm motor but very long then it might have enough torque for such a loco.

 

Chris

[Chris Higgs]

Something like this. The cranks are too small in total size to print in FUD (probably just too small and Shapeways will lose them!), will have to be joined together on a sprue.

 

Class 08 wheels 1.png

 

Class 08 wheels 2.png

 

Just got hold of a couple of Farish 08s bought cheap as non-runners so will be starting to experiment with these replacement wheels. One of the 08s was a 'non-runner' because it was DCC, the other runs anyway so got them both at a very good price. I'll be producing another version of my 3D printed outside frames etc so they work with the Farish chassis so that will solve some of the issues of being overwidth. I'm going to use some nice 0.5mm bolts and nuts I have as crankpins, they work out only a bit more expensive than the flanged crankpins the Associations sell, and avoid the issue of having to solder them.

Edited February 16, 2016 by Chris Higgs

[NeilMac]

Just a request for a bit of guidance on my first loco conversion to fine scale.

 

I have a Bachmann class 04 which I would like to convert. I know that this loco can not use the drop in replacement wheelsets, but I see from another recent post that the wheels can be turned to the correct profile by Gordon Solloway.

 

I am just asking, from those who have gone this route, how involved this process will be. When the wheels are returned will they drop straight back into the chassis? Will they need packing to cater for the wider gauge? Will I need to buy a back to back gauge? Will the coupling rods need changing? Basically anything else which will need doing over and above just dropping the wheels straight back in.

 

Quite a few questions there I know, but just trying to work out if this should be my first loco, or would I be better buying another type which will take the drop in replacement wheelsets.

 

 

[queensquare]

Just a request for a bit of guidance on my first loco conversion to fine scale.

 

I have a Bachmann class 04 which I would like to convert. I know that this loco can not use the drop in replacement wheelsets, but I see from another recent post that the wheels can be turned to the correct profile by Gordon Solloway.

 

I am just asking, from those who have gone this route, how involved this process will be. When the wheels are returned will they drop straight back into the chassis? Will they need packing to cater for the wider gauge? Will I need to buy a back to back gauge? Will the coupling rods need changing? Basically anything else which will need doing over and above just dropping the wheels straight back in.

 

Quite a few questions there I know, but just trying to work out if this should be my first loco, or would I be better buying another type which will take the drop in replacement wheelsets.

I have done an 03 which Gordon turned the wheels down for. There is very little extra work involved. The pickups will need adjusting to cater for the greater back to back and I had to carefully file a little off the back of the steps to give some clearance. I used the original coupling rods although I did thin them down between the bosses as they are a bit chunky. It runs very well, looks good and is a pretty straightforward conversion.

To answer your other question, all 2FS modellers should have a back to back gauge for checking wheels.

 

Jerry

[nick_bastable]

Just a request for a bit of guidance on my first loco conversion to fine scale.

 

I have a Bachmann class 04 which I would like to convert. I know that this loco can not use the drop in replacement wheelsets, but I see from another recent post that the wheels can be turned to the correct profile by Gordon Solloway.

 

I am just asking, from those who have gone this route, how involved this process will be. When the wheels are returned will they drop straight back into the chassis? Will they need packing to cater for the wider gauge? Will I need to buy a back to back gauge? Will the coupling rods need changing? Basically anything else which will need doing over and above just dropping the wheels straight back in.

 

Quite a few questions there I know, but just trying to work out if this should be my first loco, or would I be better buying another type which will take the drop in replacement wheelsets.

the  wheels may/will need quartering but even I managed that eventually (although my 04 has an annoying click in reverse that I can not track down  )

[StuartM]

Just a request for a bit of guidance on my first loco conversion to fine scale.

 

I have a Bachmann class 04 which I would like to convert. I know that this loco can not use the drop in replacement wheelsets, but I see from another recent post that the wheels can be turned to the correct profile by Gordon Solloway.

 

I am just asking, from those who have gone this route, how involved this process will be. When the wheels are returned will they drop straight back into the chassis? Will they need packing to cater for the wider gauge? Will I need to buy a back to back gauge? Will the coupling rods need changing? Basically anything else which will need doing over and above just dropping the wheels straight back in.

 

Quite a few questions there I know, but just trying to work out if this should be my first loco, or would I be better buying another type which will take the drop in replacement wheelsets.

IMHO I'd forget the shunter as the first loco conversion and perhaps try a class 20/24/25 as these are quite literally 'drop in' wheel conversions.

These locos run super smooth and once converted to 2mm will run even smoother (on good track)

If that goes well, then try converting the 04.

I've done it, but like Nick, mine has an annoying click.

[Nigelcliffe]

the  wheels may/will need quartering but even I managed that eventually (although my 04 has an annoying click in reverse that I can not track down  )

Probably the rods/crankpins catching on the steps. That's a common issue if setting the original wheels to a wider back-to-back after thinning the flanges.

 

 

- Nigel

[nick_bastable]

Probably the rods/crankpins catching on the steps. That's a common issue if setting the original wheels to a wider back-to-back after thinning the flanges.

 

 

- Nigel

that was my first thought but still there even with the body off,  I then  tried it with the cranks disconnected still there, spent several hours slowly running it to try and find a  binding point but nothing.  I have a  feeling its a gear catching probably a prelude to a split gear 

 

see later post

Edited February 27, 2016 by nick_bastable

[Nigelcliffe]

Next areas to look at:

 

  -  is there an issue to the fly-cranks.   When resetting the wheels outwards, the fly-cranks are not moved outwards.  So something could be catching in that area, or on the wheel closest to the fly crank.   On my 04 I've removed the plastic fly crank blocks, and just have the over long rods moving behind the steps. Even though its been the subject of close-up movies to illustrate my couplings, I've never had anyone comment on the absence of the crank parts.

 

  -  check the pickups, are any catching on the backs of the wheels ? 

 

 

- Nigel

[nick_bastable]

Next areas to look at:

 

  -  is there an issue to the fly-cranks.   When resetting the wheels outwards, the fly-cranks are not moved outwards.  So something could be catching in that area, or on the wheel closest to the fly crank.   On my 04 I've removed the plastic fly crank blocks, and just have the over long rods moving behind the steps. Even though its been the subject of close-up movies to illustrate my couplings, I've never had anyone comment on the absence of the crank parts.

 

  -  check the pickups, are any catching on the backs of the wheels ? 

 

 

- Nigel

Nigel

 

following your excellent advice Im pleased to report it is no longer clicking    

 

Clicking was caused by one of the pick ups catching on a wheel, it was only on dismantling it yet again I could see this.   I then spent 1/2 an hour reattaching the cranks (carpoet monsters fault)  still runing nice and quiet in both directions.

 

Now to touch up the rods and fit a chip

 

many thanks for your help

 

Nick

[NeilMac]

IMHO I'd forget the shunter as the first loco conversion and perhaps try a class 20/24/25 as these are quite literally 'drop in' wheel conversions.

These locos run super smooth and once converted to 2mm will run even smoother (on good track)

If that goes well, then try converting the 04.

I've done it, but like Nick, mine has an annoying click.

 

Thanks for all the input on my original question.

 

Having already rejected converting the Dapol pannier tank (which I also own) as per the article in the current magazine I think I will also leave the 04 for now.

 

On the other Farish diesels - is there a list of which ones will take the drop in wheelsets, or is it all the modern ones excluding those with connecting rods? I would hate to find that I have ended up buying the only one that could not be converted!

[nick_bastable]

Thanks for all the input on my original question.

 

Having already rejected converting the Dapol pannier tank (which I also own) as per the article in the current magazine I think I will also leave the 04 for now.

 

On the other Farish diesels - is there a list of which ones will take the drop in wheelsets, or is it all the modern ones excluding those with connecting rods? I would hate to find that I have ended up buying the only one that could not be converted!

• 3-070 - 7.5mm dia wheel, 16 tooth pinion, outside framed bogies
  • Farish diesel classes 24, 25, 40, 44, 45, 47, 56
• 3-071 - 7.0mm dia wheel, 16 tooth pinion, outside framed bogies
  • Farish diesel classes 20, 31, 37, HST, 55, 60, 66

    (note, not suitable for types with visible external face, such as Warship, Western ).

• 3-072 - 7.0mm dia wheel, un-driven.
  • Farish diesel class 40/44/45/46 unpowered lead wheels (see footnote on diameter of these wheels at base of page). Contact shop for special order 6mm diameter undriven wheel (parts available for manufacture from 1st June 2010).
• 3-073 - 6.0mm diameter, 15 tooth pinion, outside framed bogies.
  • Farish DMU, recent 2-axle drive mechanism, classes 108 and 150/x, require 2 geared axles, plus undriven axles (below).
  • Farish DMU, older designs including 101, 158, 159, 170, GWR "Flying Banana", require geared 4 axles, plus undriven axles (below).
• 3-074 - 6.0mm diameter, undriven split-axle, 14.2mm over pin-point ends for electrical pickup.
  • Suitable for Farish class 108 - 6 un-driven axles required, plus 2 driven axles. Three car unit also requires four axles of 2-020 for centre car.
  • NB. Class 150/x requires slightly different pin-point axle length, this is under development.
• 2-020 - 6.0mm diameter coach/wagon wheel on 15.2mm pin-point axle.
  • Suitable for undriven cars on Farish classes 101, 158, 159, 170, and the centre car of the three-car 108 units.

 

 

ve converted a 101 / 108 and class 24 all very simple 

 

Nick

Edited February 29, 2016 by nick_bastable

[Izzy]

As far as the latest Farish 31 goes please refer to page 35 of this thread starting at post 870 with regard to the wheel sizes to use. Personally, for a first loco I would keep it simple and stick to one of the (latest model) Bo-Bo diesels 20/24/25 as Stuart suggests. These will help set the standards you can expect as you won't find better running locos in my experience

 

Izzy

[StuartM]

As far as the latest Farish 31 goes please refer to page 35 of this thread starting at post 870 with regard to the wheel sizes to use. Personally, for a first loco I would keep it simple and stick to one of the (latest model) Bo-Bo diesels 20/24/25 as Stuart suggests. These will help set the standards you can expect as you won't find better running locos in my experience

 

Izzy

Wot he said

[Chris Higgs]

As far as the latest Farish 31 goes please refer to page 35 of this thread starting at post 870 with regard to the wheel sizes to use. Personally, for a first loco I would keep it simple and stick to one of the (latest model) Bo-Bo diesels 20/24/25 as Stuart suggests. These will help set the standards you can expect as you won't find better running locos in my experience

 

Izzy

 

A Bo-Bo is definitely the best choice. There are greater chances of running issues with Co-Cos given they may rock on the centre axle, or conversley it might float up and derail. 

 

A DMU is also a nice choice, given that you get a whole train in one hit.

 

The only thing you will not have is uniqueness, as 2mm FS layouts seem to be inundated with Green class 24s and Class 108 DMUs these days!

 

Chris

[StuartM]

T

 

A Bo-Bo is definitely the best choice. There are greater chances of running issues with Co-Cos given they may rock on the centre axle, or conversley it might float up and derail. 

 

A DMU is also a nice choice, given that you get a whole train in one hit.

 

The only thing you will not have is uniqueness, as 2mm FS layouts seem to be inundated with Green class 24s and Class 108 DMUs these days!

 

Chris

That's easy to rectify, use blue ones
especially the class 25, which is a stunning little model

Edited February 29, 2016 by StuartM

[PaulCheffus]

A Bo-Bo is definitely the best choice. There are greater chances of running issues with Co-Cos given they may rock on the centre axle, or conversley it might float up and derail. 

 

A DMU is also a nice choice, given that you get a whole train in one hit.

 

The only thing you will not have is uniqueness, as 2mm FS layouts seem to be inundated with Green class 24s and Class 108 DMUs these days!

 

Chris

Hi

 

Funnily enough I found more issues with a Bo-Bo rather than a Co-Co on my points.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Chris Higgs]

Does anyone know the precise dimensions of the Association narrow gauge rail/strip, item 1-005. Obviously it it 30 thou (0.75mm) high but how wide is it?

 

I think Mark will know if you are listening. 

 

I want to use it for loco cylinder slidebars. A 10m coil is going to do an awful lot of locos!

 

Chris

Edited March 1, 2016 by Chris Higgs

[NCB]

Does anyone know of a source of 6mm diameter coreless motors that are longer than usual. I am thinking of building one of my Black 5 replacement chassis for the Farish body and using a motor in the loco rather than the tender. Farish only left a width of 6mm in the body cavity so the new Farish 7mm coreless will not fit (unless I were to drop it down between the frames). But the cavity is very long so I was thinking if there was a 6mm motor but very long then it might have enough torque for such a loco.

 

Chris

Afraid not, I was looking for something like this myself; I'm sure they must be out there. Let us know if you find one.

 

I take it you've thought of Nigel Lawton's 6mm x 12mm coreless motors?

 

Cheers

Nigel

[Chris Higgs]

Afraid not, I was looking for something like this myself; I'm sure they must be out there. Let us know if you find one.

 

I take it you've thought of Nigel Lawton's 6mm x 12mm coreless motors?

 

Cheers

Nigel

 

I don't think it will develop enough power for a workhorse like a Black 5. I did even consider putting two in, one each end of the worm. Wired in series, that would also solve the problem of them being 6V motors.

[2mmMark]

Does anyone know the precise dimensions of the Association narrow gauge rail/strip, item 1-005. Obviously it it 30 thou (0.75mm) high but how wide is it?

 

I think Mark will know if you are listening. 

 

I want to use it for loco cylinder slidebars. A 10m coil is going to do an awful lot of locos!

 

Chris

 

15thou, Chris, noticeably thinner than the regular strip rail.  Seems like the rolling process results in a 2:1 profile for the strip.

 

It is somewhat rounded on the 15 thou axis (i.e. top & bottom when used as rail)

 

Mark

[garethashenden]

Part 1-181 is 12 sprues of chairs for Easitrac. How many points can be made from that? For the sake of this question, lets say they're all B6.

[Caley Jim]

Part 1-181 is 12 sprues of chairs for Easitrac. How many points can be made from that? For the sake of this question, lets say they're all B6.

If you look in the yearbook catalogue list you will see that each sprue has 8 plain, 2 slide and 1 checkrail chair on it.  You will have to work out how many of each type your turnout needs and base the number of sprues on that.  You will also need to allow for cutting up some chairs to glue in the crossing area.  The 12 sprues should give you enough for the average turnout.  Of course, these are the original plain chairs, i.e. without the pegs.

 

Jim