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6 hours ago, cctransuk said:

Careful - as I found out - you are likely to be accused of putting other kit designers out of business!

Don't think there's much risk of that @cctransuk.  The market for CR items in 2FS is minimal to say the least and the other stuff I've done has been one-off bespoke items for specific projects for friends and other 2MM SA members.  I don't see any of that as threatening the business of professional kit designers.

 

Jim

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1 minute ago, Caley Jim said:

Don't think there's much risk of that @cctransuk.  The market for CR items in 2FS is minimal to say the least and the other stuff I've done has been one-off bespoke items for specific projects for friends and other 2MM SA members.  I don't see any of that as threatening the business of professional kit designers.

 

Jim

 

The objection - from one of our esteemed moderators - was to me producing transfers for a price little more than my costs.

 

CJI.

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2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

The objection - from one of our esteemed moderators - was to me producing transfers for a price little more than my costs.

 

CJI.

 

There are other forums without such silly moderation practises.  Whatever next, don't discuss scratchbuilding or using a 3D printing as its taking away from kit and RTR makers (there's a whole forum section devoted 3D printing and another to scratchbuilding...).     

 

If someone wants to offer stuff at "cost" or even "below cost" that's there choice - other providers have to adapt to the new market.      

 

- Nigel

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Others will be able to chip in with more detailed information, but in general it is easier to get a better looking wagon/van if you retain the body headstocks and don't use the chassis ones.  On these you also don't lose end stanchion detail. Not sure about the depth issue, but these vans to my knowledge had steel solebars and thus 2-361 may be an easier chassis rather than 2-330 with a steel solebar conversion. 

 

Regards,

Simon

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A while ago, somebody made available versions of some of Dragon Models 7mm kits, reduced to 2mm. They have sat in the gloat box for some time while I worked out how to build them. I have used standard Association wheels, top-hat bearings, axleboxes/springs and buffers but otherwise the opens are all from the reduced etch. The timber wagons are the same, except for a partially scratchbuilt bolster.

 

Brecon and Merthyr Railway 2-plank opens:

P1022619.JPG.f4589bfed72d3b78e3200d8fdd4d8b6c.JPG

 

A pair of Barry Railway MITEs:

 

P1022614.JPG.57479a5d9d661b6271abf945cdd7893b.JPG

 

Duncan

Edited by DuncanFogg
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On 03/09/2023 at 07:52, 65179 said:

Others will be able to chip in with more detailed information, but in general it is easier to get a better looking wagon/van if you retain the body headstocks and don't use the chassis ones.  On these you also don't lose end stanchion detail. Not sure about the depth issue, but these vans to my knowledge had steel solebars and thus 2-361 may be an easier chassis rather than 2-330 with a steel solebar conversion. 

 

Regards,

Simon

 

Matt, Simon, Duncan,

 

Yes - I've retained the body headstocks too on my 16'6" vans when using the 2-361 DC chassis - on using a Morton brake chassis I'll be doing similar, though I'll probably need to trim off the ends of the solebars to bring it down to length.

 

For DC stock this also applies to the 2-528 4/5 plank open wagon twin pack.

 

Also, if you have them or can get back copies of them Rich Brummit did a couple of articles in the June/July and August/September 2014 issues of the magazine that expand on the instructions for 2-361 on assembly and usage of the DC underframes.

 

I've got one more 9' DC chassis to do - saving the madness/complexity of the fitted DC till last, then a pair of 12' DC underframes for a pair of Mink Cs and a Morton underframe (using a 2-353a) for another 16'6" van.

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

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On 03/09/2023 at 10:20, DuncanFogg said:

Matt,

 

I certainly agree with retaining headstocks whenever that is an option. Here are three, with different types of DC brakes.

 

P1022621.JPG.6137bc60c1c92508bf3beb3d78a000fa.JPG

 

Currently in a train stopped at Didcot Parkway looking across I can see one the 1:1 scale versions

 

Chris

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Hey all, got a couple of questions about some Shop 2 bits. 

 

1. Does the 2-522 GWR Iron Mink kit come with a roof? Can’t tell from just the description and photo in the shop listing.

2. What was item 2-337? It’s no longer available in the shop but is listed in the extras column for some wagons when reading the parts tables. Given it’s number’s closeness to 2-335 Steel Solebar conversion for 9’ wheelbase underframes, was it the same thing but for a 10’ wheelbase underframe?

 

Cheers,

 

Matt

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Matt,

 

There is no roof. You get two sprues, each containing a side, an end and a floor. Here is a photo from an article I have written for the Magazine (not yet published).

Figure2.JPG.b0441045ea7a969e44043e063cbb4a06.JPG

 

I have also found 2-337 and you are quite correct:

2-337.jpg.68ed47c71f2a9aa39a11e35c4661ae7d.jpg

 

Duncan

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Morning all,

 

Just been looking at some of the wagon kits on the 2mm Shop - namely the outside framed MR van 2-580. There are no chassis suggested for it or buffers and I can find very little information after a quick google. 

 

Has anyone else built some of these and which chassis and buffers did you use please? Or is there something that I've missed somewhere that lists the required parts? It's not listed on the LMS wagon parts list given in other parts of the wagon shop. 

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. 

 

Adam

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Adam,

 

I've been looking into building one too to go with a couple of MR opens, all of which would have lingered into LMS days - it's the 2-342 you'll need.

 

I have been wondering on the most expeditious way to sweat together the layers of etch on this - current thinking is to tin them with a normal iron then bring out an old Wolf 60W iron I save for such occasions... either that or a mini blowtorch.

 

Cheers,

 

John

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30 minutes ago, yaxxbarl said:

Adam,

 

I've been looking into building one too to go with a couple of MR opens, all of which would have lingered into LMS days - it's the 2-342 you'll need.

 

I have been wondering on the most expeditious way to sweat together the layers of etch on this - current thinking is to tin them with a normal iron then bring out an old Wolf 60W iron I save for such occasions... either that or a mini blowtorch.

 

Cheers,

 

John


Hi John,

 

As long as you're sure it's the 9' MR chassis! I guess I'll have to get my order together soon then. 

 

Cheers

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1 hour ago, yaxxbarl said:

Adam,

 

I've been looking into building one too to go with a couple of MR opens, all of which would have lingered into LMS days - it's the 2-342 you'll need.

 

I have been wondering on the most expeditious way to sweat together the layers of etch on this - current thinking is to tin them with a normal iron then bring out an old Wolf 60W iron I save for such occasions... either that or a mini blowtorch.

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

John, I think Adam is looking at the plastic MR van kit (2-580), not the etched ones (2-490, 2-491). The plastic kit represents the 10 ton vans, which need a 10ft underframe, not the 9ft one that 2-342 represents. IIRC someone told me that the plastic body kit is somewhat overscale but I can't remember who and by how much!

 

Andy

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29 minutes ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

John, I think Adam is looking at the plastic MR van kit (2-580), not the etched ones (2-490, 2-491). The plastic kit represents the 10 ton vans, which need a 10ft underframe, not the 9ft one that 2-342 represents. IIRC someone told me that the plastic body kit is somewhat overscale but I can't remember who and by how much!

 

Andy

 

The plastic body is the NGS kit:

 

https://www.ngsjoin.com/kit-3-mrlmsbr-outside-framed-van--ngsk0030-537-p.asp

 

The usual dimensional compromise to fit a peco chassis.

 

In the current absence of the MR 10ft chassis then crosskitting is needed with another 10ft chassis with a wooden solebar option paired with MR axleboxes etc.

 

Simon

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23 minutes ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

John, I think Adam is looking at the plastic MR van kit (2-580), not the etched ones (2-490, 2-491). The plastic kit represents the 10 ton vans, which need a 10ft underframe, not the 9ft one that 2-342 represents. IIRC someone told me that the plastic body kit is somewhat overscale but I can't remember who and by how much!

 

Andy

 

I believe this is a D363 van. (Chris did a properly scaled etch for these as well as the D353 and D357 that was once upon a time shop item 2-492.)

 

I made one, as one of the first 2mm kits I put together getting on for 20 years ago (ouch!).

I can vouch for the plastic body being over-scale, which becomes obvious when it is placed next to any 2mm scale van.

 

I think I used the RCH 10'6" chassis (2-329) with the tie-bar cut off - which matched the body's swollen proportions.

I suspect the model should have DSI brakes with twin V-hangers each side, rather than Morton brakes.

Buffers were the only turned ones available in the range back then. I think they are what have become 2-072.

 

At the time I was very please with how it turned out... It's a lovely model, but I'm no longer sure what it's really a model of!

 

005.JPG.03245e39aa5155c3132a19d8977396bc

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21 minutes ago, Nick Mitchell said:

I believe this is a D363 van.

 

Can one tell the difference between the 9" x 3 3/4" journals of a D363 and the 8" x 3 1/2" journals of a D362, at normal viewing distance, in 2 mm scale? (From 1936, the LMS thoughtfully added the 10T / 8T lettering.)

 

But I suppose the 12T marking is appropriate if the body is as over-scale as you say!

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1 hour ago, A. Bastow said:

Thanks folks… not sure about them then if they are intended for a peco chassis- as nice as they might look. I’m actively trying to avoid acquiring anything in N!

 

I might help clear out the etched van bodies instead. 

Adam,

 

Yes - I did think it was the etched ones you were referring to! I do have some of the plastic bodies myself - the main thing I'll be using them for is as scenic items, either as goods stores and mouldering away into the hedgerow deep in the countryside...

 

Cheers,

 

John

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  • 2 months later...
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Can anyone tell me what length the axle is on a standard Bachmann/GF Mark 1 coach please? I'm looking to order some 2FS replacements from the Association shop, but mine are currently all packed away and not an easy reclaim for a 30 second measure!  Any help would be appreciated chaps.

Rich

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2 hours ago, MarshLane said:

Can anyone tell me what length the axle is on a standard Bachmann/GF Mark 1 coach please? I'm looking to order some 2FS replacements from the Association shop, but mine are currently all packed away and not an easy reclaim for a 30 second measure!  Any help would be appreciated chaps.

Rich

 

15.2mm Rich, I've just been and checked to be sure. This used to be the standard length Farish have used and I don't think it has changed for any bogie coaching stock but it does now vary widely for newer wagons so you do have to be careful. Not sure about the CCT's though, it seems I have re-wheeled them with 12.25's running in the top hat brass bearings so not sure what the original axle length was.

 

Bob

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