Mr Simon's N and 2mm Workbench - pg29> N V1 2-6-2, 2mm L&Y class 23, assorted wagons and stuff

[MrSimon]

I wouldn't say you're behind - yours runs! I've don't nothing with my chassis since I cooked the chip...

[MrSimon]

 

Boiler bands: done!

 

 

 

Just the hard bit left to do...

 

 

[Les1952]

Could even be finished in time for Warley at this rate....

 

Dad

[MrSimon]

I'm planning on having it ready for Warley...

 

 

 

First side lined and numbered.  The transfers need to harden overnight and then I can varnish it.

 

 

 

 

I also got the class 60 glazed, it needs the NEM pocket fitting to this end and I need to give it a go over with the powders.  

 

 

All the painting's done on the pigeon van, it also needs weathering and glueing together.

 

Lots to do!

Simon

Edited September 23, 2018 by MrSimon

[MrSimon]

This happened.  I haven't stopped swearing yet.

 

Is this fixable?  

 

Can I just glue the front back on or do I need to start again with a whole new body?  

 

What's the best glue to use?

Edited October 6, 2018 by MrSimon

[BernardTPM]

Superglue would fix it, but some reinforcement might help too.

Edited October 6, 2018 by BernardTPM

[DavidMcKenzie]

Is there enough space on the underside to bond a strip of something as reinforcement? I am afraid I don't have any steam locos so I have no idea how much space would normally be on the underside there (out of sight once the models complete).

 

Anything metallic 0.5mm thick and as wide as possible would bond unseen on the underside with epoxy and stiffen the thing up a bit. Before you join the two halfs together just knock the edges off at the join with a light file so nothing sits proud at the joint, add a little filler into the recess you created by filing once the two halfs are together. Sand it down flush and give it a quick paint and no one will ever notice.

 

Good luck, I'll be keeping my fingers crossed for you. Let us know how you get on.

Edited October 6, 2018 by DavidMcKenzie

[BernardTPM]

If there isn't room above or below, Simon, consider drilling some holes and using some short lengths of wire to reinforce the join. It's surprising just how much better it is than a butt join when it comes to recalcitrant plastics.

Edited October 6, 2018 by BernardTPM

[Steadfast]

Simon, I know the feeling, we've all been there so you have my sympathies! I'm not up on Steam driven devices, is that the 3D print shown previously? Is it FUD or FXD? If so, the breaks tend to join back together cleanly, which with some reinforcement underneath may well give you a nice repair. Because of the brittle nature of the material, it's surprising how perfectly it goes together. A thin skim of superglue over the top can help hide any slight undulation. I fixed a hole in the roof of a class 08 with super glue like that.

 

Jo

[MrSimon]

Thanks for the advice everyone!  I went for superglue with a brass strip.  I'm pretty sure it's straight - it doesn't seem twisted... I'm not sure which plastic it's done in, I assume the 'smoothest fine detail plastic' but it came to me already cleaned up and primed so I don't know.

 

Here's the join from the top.  I need to smoothen the glue and repaint the footplate

 

I meant to take a better picture of the fix before I wedged the chassis in place, I'd like to fill the gap with milliput if it's safe to use on Shapeways plastic...

 

The engine in one piece with the chassis in place.

 

I started on a cab floor, a piece that is included if you buy a new kit off Shapeways (which is OK, I need space to hide the chip so it's worked out better for me to build new rather than change printing) - I also fitted the rear truck, it has a temporary wheel in the hope that dad has a larger spare.  The coupling pocket and back of the truck needed shaping so as not to foul the buffer beam. 

 

I've seen pictures of a pony truck with pick-ups built for it, I'll see how it runs before I try making a set.

 

Other things done this weekend include weathering the class 60:

 

 

 

It came out slightly dirtier than I thought it would even thought I wiped most of it off, but I think I'm happy with it.

 

 

 

 

The only thing I'm not happy about is the glazing got a white film on it from the varnish.  Would Klear clear this up?  

 

I also got the first layer of dirt on this.  I need to have another few passes at it until I'm happy with it...

 

Lots to do!

Simon

 

[Les1952]

The leading wheels on a V1/V3 were 3'2, the same as the bogie wheels on a B1.  The trailing wheels were 3'8.  That equates to 6.5mm and 7.5mm (or 6mm and 7mm) respectively.

 

I've got B1 bogie wheels (plenty of B1s bought NQP for spare).  I also have some spare rear truck wheels from an A3 and an A4 bought for spares.  The prototypes here were 3'8.  Whether the Dapol wheels are scale size I don't know.

 

If you end up with two wheelsets that are both a little undersized, try the larger ones on the back.  Maybe worth asking Dr Al what wheels he has used....

 

Dad

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

It's a very long time since I updated on here, but I've been busy!  I'll run through the bits that aren't the V1/V3 first.

 

First up, I got a second set of NMT transfers so now I can run it with a mix of liveries (and have all the transfers for the coach with the pantograph)

 

 

I did one side in each livery so I can always run it in all original or a mix, and if the MK2s ever come out and PH does the etches for the MK2s then I can backdate it even further.

 

These MOD container sides came in a job lot of container parts which I initially bought for the coal container ends.  I made these in preparation for the Revolution container flat to come out, I think I can manage a short MOD train.

 

This was lurking in Dad's shed with a coupling off, so I brought it back to works.

 

I put a Dapol NEM pocket and coupling on it so not it can have a knuckle coupling on if needed.

 

I think this is finished now, it's in the box for Warley anyway.

 

 

The V1 (/V3)!  I'm still not sure what type it is, I numbered it as a V1 I think...?

 

When I went up to Dad's last month I took the tank and the new chip so I could fit it and Dad could set it to work on analogue.  I was worried about frying another chip and left the wires too long.  My first hard wired chip worked well though.

 

I'm sure I've said before, I'm not massively confident about working with 3D prints - I'm not sure what I can and can't do with the material in the same way as I am with resin/metal/plastic.  I also needed to add some weight and a bit of a strengthening piece out of Milliput, so I did a test piece.

 

They test pieces didn't melt so I filled the front of the smoke box, the side tanks, cab roof, and coal space with superfine white.  Once this had set I could make any changes needed and put it back together.

 

The main issue with leaving the wires long is that they don't fit in the bunker too well with the chip... but they did fit and I could do a load of testing:

 

https://youtu.be/Hlp-ltoK8Y8

 

I finished the transfers and varnished it during the week, so here's where we were at the start of this weekend:

 

 

Yesterday was 'filthy chassis day' it's a special thing I do with steam locos as I don't want the paint to make the motion seize.  I paint as much as I can then move the wheels and paint some more; and so one.  After this I run it for an hour or two at quite slow speed, stopping to oil the joints when it makes noises.  Then it ran around the coffee table for an hour pulling all the wagons in my Warley box.  

 

This morning after the paint had had overnight to harden I ran it again and it's still fine.  I don't need to do this for diesels...

 

This afternoon I used the powders on it, then I glazed it, fitted the safety valves and varnished it:

 

 

Once the varnish dried I fitted the vac pipes and lamps:

 

I just need to paint them and it's done.  I don't think I'll get any updates on before Warley (as I won't be in my flat at the same time as any daylight before then) but it'll be running on Hawthorne Dene all weekend (we're on the same block as the N Gauge Society, near the Cafe and the Revolution bus).

 

Lots to do!

Simon

 

 

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

We’re all set up and ready to go Warley this weekend; on a long-ish parcels train is the V1:

 

 

 

We’re in a block of N Gauge layouts near the restaurant, behind the smoking towers of Didcot Powerstation if you want to stop by and have a look.

 

Cheers

Simon

[shanks522]

Nice job on the V1 simon, hope Warley goes well.

 

Graham.

[MrSimon]

Thanks Graham!

 

It seems to be going well so far, the V1 is behaving perfectly and seems to be running much better than it was at home...

 

 

If anyone’s ordered an NGS Hunslet we’ve had two samples on the layout all weekend:

 

 

I’ve managed to stay strong and not order one - I definitely don’t need one, but they look good...

 

Cheers

Simon

[DavidMcKenzie]

The V1 looks brilliant on the layout Simon. Is that the same one that had the buffer beam break a month of so back? If so great job on the repair and hopefully you can laugh about it now .

 

Enjoy the show and all the best

Dave

[millerhillboy]

Nice job on the V3, its a cracking piece of work by Atso and I'm enjoying working on mine which went into paint yesterday.

 

One wee thing, did you leave off the smokebox number plate?

 

I must be weird but I enjoy doing the lining!! So thats the next step.

Edited November 25, 2018 by millerhillboy

[MrSimon]

The V1 looks brilliant on the layout Simon. Is that the same one that had the buffer beam break a month of so back? If so great job on the repair and hopefully you can laugh about it now .

Enjoy the show and all the best

Dave

Thanks David! It is the same one - I managed to get it all back together strengthened with a strip of brass and some milliput (with superglue smeared over the top of the footplate - I wouldn’t say laugh yet but I definitely learned about the material - good thing too I’ve got some modern bits to do in the new year

 

Nice job on the V3, its a cracking piece of work by Atso and I'm enjoying working on mine which went into paint yesterday.

One wee thing, did you leave off the smokebox number plate?

I must be weird but I enjoy doing the lining!! So thats the next step.

Thanks Millerhillboy - the plate where the smokebox door number goes is there, but I didn’t have any numbers to put on so I left it blank (safe in the knowledge that as it only runs well bunker first the smokebox will be pressed against the front vehicle!

 

Do you do your lining by hand or transfers? I’m not great at getting transfers straight, but Atso stopped by yesterday and showed one he’d done with a bow pen - AMAZING! Definitely a skill I want to learn (Which will help in getting the O gauge tram finished...). I weathered over the bits of lining that weren’t quite right

 

Cheers

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

Here’s a video I took of the V1 before the show opened yesterday:

 

[media]

[\media]

 

It was just going to show the parcels train but then the fast fitted came in the other direction (It was going to stop at the signal so we’d have been waiting a while to see the other half!)

 

Cheers

Simon

[MrSimon]

Hello everybody!

 

A belated thanks to everyone who stopped by to see the layout at Warley - can't believe it's been two weeks already.  The V1 behaved faultlessly, it's back on the desk for some finishing off at the moment:

 

 

I'm going to replace the rear bogie with another identical one, when putting the loco together I took the truck on and off so many times I snapped part of it off, and the wheel is a little loose.  Also as I confirmed it doesn't run brilliantly going forwards on DCC either so I'll add a coupling chain and whatever pipes that need fitting.

 

It's always great to stop by the C Rail stand, at Warley they had the pocket wagon prototype and the tanktainers had arrived:

 

It's a great, I asked my sister for a few more for Christmas so I'll weather them a bit and stick them onto some wagons when I know which/which combination I've got.  Also, excitingly. they had some undecorated hi-top containers so I picked one up and will sort out painting/detailing it.

 

I also came back from Warley with some bits from Dad's:

 

It doesn't work so if I can fix it I might do some stuff with it...

 

The shiny roof of this Stove has bothered me for a while; so this time I van-napped it, researched the right colour for a Stove and attacked it with some grey paint.

 

I also painted the underframe, wheels and ends:

 

 

 

 

 

I gave the sides a really light dusting of powders too.  So now it's finished, and as a bonus it doesn't look like the two identical ones in his stock box!

 

This came back, it failed when we set up the layout, the coupling pockets had locked:

 

 

When I got it back I noticed the sides had bowed in:

 

I found an off-cut of thick plasticard and made a brace to straighten out the sides:

 

 

And then I re-painted the underframe/bogies:

 

I'm pretty sure I did it when I first built it, but I do it a bit differently now so I gave it another coat.

 

 

This didn't manage a lap of the layout, I'd glued the couplings in the pockets and they didn't have enough side-play to go round the corners.  

 

I took the printed coupling pockets off and fitted some Dapol pockets.  I'll give it a few laps when I'm next in Newark.

 

 

I finished painting the underframe/bogies I just need to fit the ladders and I can finish off the weathering.

 

 

The fourth NMT coach, it's had a coat of printer, some milliput, and another coat of primer and it still needs some work.

 

 

I gave it it's first coat of yellow and realised it needs a lot more work with the wet-n-dry, so I think this coach is going to take a bit longer than the first three... I need to find some decent roof shots too.

 

Lots to do!

Simon

[Dr Al]

I'm going to replace the rear bogie with another identical one, when putting the loco together I took the truck on and off so many times I snapped part of it off, and the wheel is a little loose.  Also as I confirmed it doesn't run brilliantly going forwards on DCC either so I'll add a coupling chain and whatever pipes that need fitting.

 

 

Mine runs well forwards - the problem is almost certainly pickup - without adding pickups to the rear bogie then basically there are only two reliable pickup wheels - namely the front drivers. This just isn't enough.

 

Given you are are rebuilding the rear bogie anyway, I'd strongly suggest fitting pickups to it also - both Steve and I have done this (I'm sure there's pictures on Steve's thread). Gives you many more options to run it to full potential.

Cheers,

Alan

[MrSimon]

Thanks Alan,

 

I fitted pick-ups to the rear truck then milliputt-ed them in place when I weighted the loco - they didn't make any difference to the slow-speed going forwards (it still stuttered upside-down in the cradle-thing when I had the power applied directly to the drivers). It was fine going slowly through point-work though so the extra pick-ups were doing something!

 

What I think I need is someone clever with a programming track to see if they can do anything in the chip with the current/speed or whatever. I'll give the pickups a good clean though to see if that helps.

 

Cheers

Simon

[Dr Al]

Thanks Alan,

 

I fitted pick-ups to the rear truck then milliputt-ed them in place when I weighted the loco - they didn't make any difference to the slow-speed going forwards (it still stuttered upside-down in the cradle-thing when I had the power applied directly to the drivers). It was fine going slowly through point-work though so the extra pick-ups were doing something!

 

What I think I need is someone clever with a programming track to see if they can do anything in the chip with the current/speed or whatever. I'll give the pickups a good clean though to see if that helps.

 

Cheers

Simon

 

 

That really does sound like a fundamental chassis problem in some way - it's probably worth going deeper to check if the pickup bearings are working correctly, or the quartering is out or suchlike. Also worth testing on DC to see if it's a DCC issue (seems unlikely though).

 

Cheers

Alan

[justin1985]

Interesting to see that the NGS Gresley full brake had bowed. I'm building one at the moment and thought the sides do look rather thin. I'll incorporate some extra bracing as per your model before I paint it then!

 

J

[MrSimon]

I'd definitely recommend it - it must have taken 10 years to get that bowed but it should be ok now. Another kit I've found needs bracing like that is the Chivers CCT, but that might have been the glue if I didn't leave a hole...

 

Cheers

Simon