Chris g Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I hope this post is in the right place. My current intention is to make the baseboard up from a number of rectangular sections 'edged' with ply so that they can be easily dismantled and stored, with the track layed on a cork bed glued on to the top of the styrofoam baseboard. Having read a number of threads, I'm a bit unsure what adhesive to use where. PVA seemed to be ruled out for styrofoam because it needs to be exposed to the air to dry. To glue the ply edge cladding 'no nails' seems to be the recommended option, my only question is whether this will become too brittle and fail over time as the baseboards are moved around (and knocked about !!!!). For laying the cork bed I feel that perhaps a more 'elastic' adhesive might be better, (improved sound deadening, reduce expansion and contraction problems), so something like copydex.,(I live in France and unfortunately can't seem to be able to find it locally), or an acrylic based 'filler' might work. Your thoughts / views would be very much wecomed. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mod5 Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I hope this post is in the right place. Chris Chris Welcome to the forum. I have moved it to the Modelling Questions area Chris as it is a question in general about modelling rather than track design. No worries though as when you first post it can be a little confusing where to put what. If you are in doubt you can always ask one of the Admin Team. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted June 19, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 19, 2011 Chris, you must use solvent free grab adhesive. If you use any solvent based stuff your styro/polyfoam will dissolve! Check out my blog The boards that I made have lasted a damp garage and being chucked about for over 18 months with no distortion or failure of any sort. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris g Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Mod5, Thanks for your help. Regards Chris g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris g Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Re 6/6, Thanks for your help, I'll follow the method you suggest. Regards Chris g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dymstocklr Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Chris Nonails and clamp the plywood if possible. I've had boards made that way for 3 or 4 years now and they're fine. Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris g Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Bill, Thanks for the reply. Regards Chris g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted June 20, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi Welcome to the forum. I've heard a few folk say that PVA shouldn't be used where air can't get to it. Particularly one bloke whilst I was demo-ing scenics at the Stafford show in Feb. "Don't use PVA on polystyrene it never goes off..." This does puzzle me. I've been using PVA on polystyrene for more than 20 years. On the occasions that I've had to modify scenery, and dig holes etc in it, I've found the PVA set solid. Generally the poly has come away just above the glue line - ie the material itself breaking. This is after the poly being glued to wood, glued to itself in layers and then plastered over. I can't see much air getting through that lot but it still sets. Obviously PVA won't bond to smooth plastic surfaces but I've had no bother using it on thick house insulation sheet material such as Celotex. I do however always key the surface to give the PVA something to grap into. I think what you use depends on how much time you have. I've been known to use a hot melt glue gun to tack fix the poly whilst the PVA sets - particularly when the board has to move in a short time. I suspect PVA tacks longer than the instant grab, non-solvent adhesives, but in my experience it still goes off and sets hard. The other advantage of PVA is that it smells nowhere near as bad as the stuff the chippy used on my skirting board.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Sheep Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I've always glued foamboard with PVA glue, pinned in place until it sets. I've not used it for Styrofoam blocks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris g Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Thanks guys, I think I will try using the 'no nails' but will do some experimentation with PVA. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hymek2 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I agree with 2manyspams. I have used PVA to stick pink or blue foam to plywood or even to more of the same material. It does take some time to dry but the joints are really firm. I have a test base board in my garage approx 18" x 2ft with ply sides all round. It has been moved, knocked and suffered a house move without serious damage. Unfortunately the ply has suffered from being in a damp atmosphere and because it wasn't painted or treated it is looking a bit past it but the structure itself is fine. Make sure you use plenty of clamps, small pins/nails etc to hold everything in place until the glue has had chance to dry (leave it alone for a couple of days if possible). There are some pictures of an N gauge layout I built for my son a couple of years ago (http://www.flickr.com/photos/hymek2swork) which may help. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Fisher Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 I have been busy finnishing off a room decorated in the last few months and last job was some coving, great good for him I hear you read under your breath! But lets think what this stuff is? It got me thinking, hating having to put the stuff up on a ceiling that looks all nice and true and square, turned out it was'nt. The adheiseve bought from BQ made by the coving manufacturer seems inexpensive, can fill gaps and grabs within a few minutes, ok this is on the ceiling but its got me thinking! Have to try some on a baseboard and see how it gets on. Made a neat job of the coving at any rate. Cleaned up very smooth with a wet wipe when filling gaps! Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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