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How good is the Hornby/Dapol (L & Y) 0-4-0 Pug ?


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A lot of people have commented on the lack of RTR industrial locos and how they have to kit-bash the Hornby/Dapol pug for variety. I am curious about the little pug as I have never actually seen or handled one. Is it any good ? It is such a small loco and cannot weigh very much so how many wagons can they actually pull ?

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I have got two of the pugs, both of which i have chipped up to dcc, and surprisingly they can pull a surprising amount of wagons given their small stature and weight, i have a video of one pulling 12 of the old triang Murgatroyd bogie tanks (albeit they're all updated with romford wheels) . You used to be able pick them up fairly cheaply on ebay.

 

hope this helps.

 

Darren

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I have got two of the pugs, both of which i have chipped up to dcc, and surprisingly they can pull a surprising amount of wagons given their small stature and weight You used to be able pick them up fairly cheaply on ebay.

 

hope this helps.

 

Darren

 

I am surprised that there is room in there for a DCC chip ! But that is good news. Thank you for the information.

 

I have been watching them on ebay recently and they are not exactly cheap anymore.

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I used the Hornby chip, you have to stand it on its end in the cab behind the motor but with some black heat shrink round the chip you dont notice its there. I'll try do dig the loco's out and post a pic as they're all packed away due to complaints of household management wanting the front room back.

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I have one which I picked up second hand...

 

Haulage capacity isn't a problem as I've found it will pull pretty well anything its asked to within reason, bearing in mind that its a little dock tank.

 

Usually however it just gets a walk on part with a single 20T tank while 0-6-0s do the serious stuff because I find it very sensitive to imperfections in the track. This might be because its not in the first flush of youth, and there may be excessive slop in the axles, but from other reports I think its an inherent thing down to the very short wheelbase.

 

It might be worth somebody reporting on how the running compares with Model Rail's Sentinel.

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Is the Hornby version exactly the same as the Dapol version ? I see that the older Dapol pugs have the axle gear exposed underneath the loco. Have Hornby fitted an enclosure to cover this and stop dirt getting into the gears ?

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I have a Hornby Pug and it runs quite well although it could benefit from lower gearing in my opinion. It is sensitive to dirty track and wheels and does not like insulfrog points. Only having a small end-to-end layout I cannot really comment on its ability to haul a load but overall I am happy with it. I am thinking about adding some extra weight to it but have not done so as yet.

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I have a Hornby Pug and it runs quite well although it could benefit from lower gearing in my opinion. It is sensitive to dirty track and wheels and does not like insulfrog points. Only having a small end-to-end layout I cannot really comment on its ability to haul a load but overall I am happy with it. I am thinking about adding some extra weight to it but have not done so as yet.

 

Don't forget the replacement chassie kit from Highlevel, that'll solve your haulage and gearing problems!

 

John.

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I too picked one up on Ebay 18 months ago to chop about. Much to my surprise it runs very well indeed over both Peco code 75 and handlaid C&L pointwork with very little if any *kerfingerkopoken required, though of course flat clean track and wheels will always help. I did widen the wheel back to backs out to around 14,7mm which I think reduces slop and waddle a little (and probably aids pick up too). The motor is pretty visible, so its effect has been reduced with a curtain (I've seen this on odd pics) of black painted tissue to give the impression of a windstop for the softer drivers.

 

I see that Hornby are reintroducing it soon.

 

post-6681-0-10663600-1309828880_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*a 'CK-ism' for bashing a stalled engine.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
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On the Dapol and Hornby chassis, you can very easily compensate it like i have on mine for improved running. just melt a piece of brass rod under the front axle, centre line and then file the chassis bearing slots downwards to allow the axle to rock on the brass rod.

 

Regards Robert

RT Models Kits and parts

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have two both second hand and regauged to EM using ultrascale wheels sets ,one is bashed to a Peckett. both have much added weight from all sorts of lead bits stuffed into any space and although the motor is easily visible run very slow and smooth.they benefit from lubrication and running in but hate dodgy track and uneven pointwork( my tracklaying is rubbish),however I have one more chassis under a GER tram loco running sskirtless which is quiet smooth and slow by virtue of several tyre balance weights which make up the whole interior of the scratch built loco. the loco is heavy the chassis is stiffened by superglued stringers from brass. At the Plymouth exhibition I saw aSentinel,one of the

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oto continue.The sentinel ran slowly but was nowhere near as quiet as a well run in and fully weighted PUG chassis,but it was brand new and was not well run in at all so not a really fair comparison.i havent got a Sentinel so cannot fill one with lead and soa it in oil to get a fair comparison. the pug chassis s in its fifth rein carnation and is what you could call a bit run in. I like the Pugs and have two more ,one will be an Avonside and the other just a Pug

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The Dapol Sentinel has a fly-wheel (they do quieten with age - mine just hums after approx 100 hours) so it would be unfair to compare it to the little pug, but with good level spotless track, regular maint' and clean wheels can be pretty impressive. Much under rated though and always appeals to viewers at shows especially the little ones.

 

This one has new lamp irons, paint, identity, but in hindsight I wish I'd replaced the smokebox door handles and other valve type stuff with something better.

 

post-6681-0-53411200-1314258807_thumb.jpg

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I like the compensation idea suggested by Robert, and if I ever get another will do that. Weight really helps rail contact as already mentioned, and every internal space available, and those I could create got lead crammed in. This was pre-DCC days, now I would be inclined to use the space first for a Lenz decoder plus UPS module; in combination with compensation I should think that would be the business. I have used the UPS on other four wheel pick up types, and it is little short of magical in effect.

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When i get the chance, i'll post a photo of mine with the keeperplate removed to show the compensation and if i'm allowed to in this topic, i'll post 1 photo to show how far i have detailed it as it has altered its look a bit.

 

Regards Robert

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  • 3 months later...

I have just been given (18./12/11) a new Hornby Pug & it runs slowly & well EXCEPT it will not go through any of my small radius insulfrog points, which my other small non-Hornby locos sail through. I read Chris Nevard's thoughts on re-gauging the wheels, if this is what it needs, how do I do it please? The wheels at present, back-to-back, are about 13.8mm

 

Or should I get the giver to take it back to the shop, & risk getting another exactly the same? Thanks for your help.

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I have just been given (18./12/11) a new Hornby Pug & it runs slowly & well EXCEPT it will not go through any of my small radius insulfrog points, which my other small non-Hornby locos sail through. I read Chris Nevard's thoughts on re-gauging the wheels, if this is what it needs, how do I do it please? The wheels at present, back-to-back, are about 13.8mm

 

Or should I get the giver to take it back to the shop, & risk getting another exactly the same? Thanks for your help.

When you say it won't go through your small radius insulfrog points, is it having trouble with current collection on the insulated frog, or is/are the flanges on the wheels riding up onto the top of the rails, or something else? If it's the first, then the wheel back-to-backs will make no difference as the problem is the insulfrogs on the points

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When you say it won't go through your small radius insulfrog points, is it having trouble with current collection on the insulated frog, or is/are the flanges on the wheels riding up onto the top of the rails, or something else? If it's the first, then the wheel back-to-backs will make no difference as the problem is the insulfrogs on the points

 

The current collection is OK, the wheels appear to be not riding smoothly through the frog end of the points. They will go through when driven briskly but not when going fairly slowly as shunting locos should. I suspect it is a back-to-back wheel problem. I am reluctant to spend yet more on making an RTR loco run, otherwise I would have bought a kit in the first place.

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