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ATTACHING GLAZING TO ETCHED FRAMES


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Hi, I'm about to make a 7mm Station for which I bought etched brass from Kirtley Model Buildings (I would have added a link but the web page doesn't appear to be working) , my question is how do you stick the glazing to the inside of the etch, i.e. what adhesive do you use?

 

:help: Nigel

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What I've done in 4mm (so this should be OK in 7mm as well), is to give the rear side of the etched window frame a good clean with a curved scalpel blade (assuming some paint has found it's way to the rear), and then carefully spray some 3M Display Mount aerosol glue onto it. Best to practice with a non-critical piece first, to ensure you don't put too much glue on it.

 

Then, place carefully onto the glazing (which I initially leave slightly over-size) and put between two pieces of clean paper, and then weigh down to fully cure overnight.

 

Next day, I carefully clean up the sides of the glazing with a new, sharp scalpel blade. The sides of the etched frame and glazing material can then be painted to match the front elevation of the window frame, if required.

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Hi Nigel, I put much the same question to 'the Scale Link Team' and this is the reply I got from a very helpful chap called Bob.

 

"The windows will probably be made on 0.30mm brass and I usually bond brass

to Plasticard with a 5-minute epoxy and that seems to grip both materials

satisfactorily."

 

I've also seen the glazing sandwiched between two frets (in 7mm scale) without actually using any glue.... kept in place by a couple (or was it three?) narrow strips of plasticard. These weren't flush with the top and bottom rails (of the windows) but left little recesses to allow the windows to slide on microstrip runners. Very effective!!

 

Haven't quite got round to building my signal box model yet so can't make a personal comment... but hope this helps

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Afternoon

Again, assuming it has been painted, cut the glazing oversize, lay in place and working from the inside apply GLOSS ACRYLIC varnish to the edge, applying sufficient to capillary roung the perimeter and any other part of the frame and lay flat 'till dry. This has worked for me, with the added bonus that should any stray onto the glazing you'll barely see it when dry.HTH

Steve

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As long as you can mount the glazing before the windows are fitted to the building, 3M Spraymount is ideal. Lay the etches face down on a sheet of paper, spray the reverse side and then place on a clean sheet of paper and fix the glazing. It's clean and leaves no trace of adhesive on the glazing as long as you hit it right first time. As it's tacky to start with, you can re-position if you get it wrong but it often leaves a trace on the glazing.

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If you can still get it, Johnsons Kleer floor polish is very effective.

Coat the whole "glass" area with it and position in the frame, any excess at the frame can just be brushed across the "glass" as it dries completely clear.

It has the added advantage of giving plastic glazing (IMHO) a more glass like appearance.

 

Other than that, "canopy glue" used by aero modellers is excellent as it also dries clear.

 

Last but not least, Deluxe Materials do a solvent free Superglue which will not fog the plastic glazing.

 

I have not tried the superglue myself but have had success with the other two in 7mm.

 

regards

Stewart

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Hi guys, thanks for the replies, firstly the frames are unpainted also there is some assembly to do, secondly I have got in my trainroom 2 bottles of Johnson's Kleer,

Has anyone used low odour low bloom superglue in my JLTRTcoach kit it says to use it for the glazing.

 

Nigel B)

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Hi, I'm about to make a 7mm Station for which I bought etched brass from Kirtley Model Buildings (I would have added a link but the web page doesn't appear to be working) , my question is how do you stick the glazing to the inside of the etch, i.e. what adhesive do you use?

 

:help: Nigel

 

 

Hi, the web page is back working now they were working on the site heres a link Kirtley Models.

 

Thanks :drinks: Nigel

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