A couple of questions regarding magnetic couplers...

[sleepyrider]

One of the best parts of moving to US HO has been finally getting to use these mysterious magnetic couplers I've read about over the years. I don't have any uncoupling magnets yet - M G Sharp seem to be the nearest Kadee stockists to Leicester, I'll take a trip up there in the next week or so and pick a few up. However, at the TVNAM show I noticed a lot of people using what looked like wooden skewers to uncouple - are these a commercial tool, or are they indeed wooden skewers - in which case is there a preferred shape / brand?

 

My only motive power so far is a Bachmann 44 tonner. It's a lovely model, but I've noticed the couplers aren't quite as smooth as the ones on my Atlas stock. Do people tend to switch the EZ mates for Kadees, or can they be fine tuned?

 

Finally, I picked up a couple of Hicube (?) boxcars off Ebay. One has damaged couplers, but there's no maker's name anywhere on it - anyone happen to know what it is so I can source replacements?

 

Sorry for what must surely be elementary questions!

[Steve Williams]

Ref. the couplers. The short answer is yes. More often than not, couplers tend to be changed to KDs. They do tend to be more reliable and durable. With regard to the wooden skewers. Yes they are just that and tend to be used when magnets have not been fitted. The advantage of skewers is that one can uncouple anywhere. I was one of those using them at TVNAM. Had never used them before. There does seem to be a technique, but I was getting better by the end of the day. The other reason that they are sometimes used is that the coupler trip pin, which many people find unsightly, can be removed as it is surplus to requirements if no magnets are being used.

 

Steve

[Talltim]

The Golden West Services boxcar is from Athearn

[dave1905]

Two things wrong with the couplers:

 

- Somebody cut off the trip pin under the coupler.

 

- The coupler is missing a knuckle spring. If you replace the spring, it will work fine, except it won't magnetically uncouple.

 

The wooden skewers are watever thin bamboo skewers are sold in grocery stores (for fondue or grilling).

[F-UnitMad]

Finally, I picked up a couple of Hicube (?) boxcars off Ebay. One has damaged couplers, but there's no maker's name anywhere on it - anyone happen to know what it is so I can source replacements?

The "Hicube" reference to the boxcar is because it's an over-height car - the white patches on the ends show by how much!!

 

so I can source replacements?

Re couplers, firstly almost all US stock is designed to take the Kadee coupler - #5 is the "standard" one and most RTR stock will be able to take it - you do not have to get replacement couplers from the actual maker of the model.

Metal couplers (i.e. Kadees) tend to be more reliable than the various plastic copies (which have all come about since Kadee's Patent Licenses expired some while ago now). You can get by with plastic ones, but there's something just a bit better about metal ones - difficult to define sometimes!

It may seem odd that uncoupling by hand a coupler that was designed for 'hands-free' magnetic uncoupling, should be so common, but it's a trade off, and depends to some extent how offended (or otherwise) you are by the "Hand of God" effect on the one hand, or the "Kadee Shuffle" the loco has to do (quite un-prototypically) to uncouple magnetically on the other...

Both methods can easily be used on the same layout, of course!

 

For magnetic operation there is the question of what sort of magnets to use; the 'between track' type is reliable but can be hard to disguise, and sleepers (ties) need removing if the magnet is used with finer track than Code 100. Under-track magnets are of course hidden, but need very accurate alignment to work properly, and some kind of discreet marker track-side if you're prone to forgetting where they are!! There are also electro-magnets which are only powered when required... I'm not sure how common their use is, either side of The Pond, to be honest - they never seem to get much of a mention. There is also the issue of steel wheels and axles on stock being attracted to the magnets, which is a right pain if it happens!!

An advantage that hand/skewer uncoupling has over magnets is when switching a long spur with several car-spots on it; the furthest car can be dropped, the train pulls back up the spur a bit, the next car dropped and so on; the usual method of magnetic uncoupling would require the train to back up all the way to the magnet (usually placed before the spur/s) and then push the uncoupled cars back in, then draw out again, uncouple the next car, push it back in... you get the idea...

[sleepyrider]

Thanks for all the replies, this group is great! I think I'll try the skewers out before even trying magnets, in view of the latter's limitations mentioned above. I have to say I don't have a problem with 'the hand of God' - my points are hand thrown anyway (must find some levers that are compatible with Peco code 100). I read and enjoyed a post by Lance Mindheim, somewhere on his blog I think, where he talked about taking your time whilst switching and visualising the jobs that members of the crew would be carrying out. I'm all for savouring a mouthful of good coffee whilst my brakesman tramps down the ballast to throw the next switch.

Also I didn't realise how interchangeable the different makes of coupler were - should make it much easier to bring everything up to spec.

[shortliner]

Two things - the little springs that fit in the knuckles of the kadees are little bu99ers, and seem to be made with invisibilium - if they jump as you are fitting them they match the carpet colour perfectly, and will never be seen again! Kadee actually sell a tool to fit them with or you can take a fine needle and thread it onto a piece of cotton which makes it easier to fit (and sometimes FIND!) Secondly take a barbecue skewer and coat the pointed end with CA (superglue) and leave to dry - it gives the skewer a little bit of "tooth" when the point is inserted between the couplers and twirled between thumb and forefinger(Kadee sell a metal tool for uncoupling too - and RIX do one with a pair of magnets that slip over the couplers - I never got on with it - Also worth a trip into Maplins and purchase a packet of heatshrink tubing - overlaying different sizes in the centre of the skewer and shrinking them thickens the skewer and give the digits something to grip. I insert the blunt end in a bit of K&S brass or copper tube, and run the shrinktube over the top - reverse the tool and slot the tube over the nub on the end of the throwbar and you don't need point levers - If you want levers look for Caboose Industries ground throws - a little overscale but do the trick

There are also Sergent magnetic couplers that are uncoupled with a rare-earth magnet on a stick -

Youtube has several demos - I have never used them - note that they do NOT self-centre like Kadees

[298]

I was also a member of the skewer brigade at TVNAM, using scale Kadee 58's with the trip pins removed purely for a more authentic appearance.

 

The easiest way to see what suits you is to lay a small inglenook with setrack and place a magnet in the four foot just before the first turnout, and have a play....!

[DaveB]

I use a Kadee yellow plastic uncoupling tool which is really in effect a posh skewer. One end is pointed - the other a more flattened end. I use all the time on Kuppla Yard and Hoxie harbor - both of which have been to TVNAM.

I find that magnets require that all coupler horn lengths have to be just so, and even then there is the danger of the horn catching the magnet, resulting in a sudden stop!

 

It's always best to go for the simplest methods when exhibiting, less to go wrong!

 

Dave

[Glorious NSE]

We had (permanent) magnets in some places but were also using skewers at TVNAM, that was a 'bodge' as the under-track electro-magnets weren't wired, but the skewers worked really well and I might not bother with the wiring (and transformer to power them).

[Adrian Wintle]

Two things - the little springs that fit in the knuckles of the kadees are little bu99ers, and seem to be made with invisibilium - if they jump as you are fitting them they match the carpet colour perfectly, and will never be seen again! Kadee actually sell a tool to fit them with or you can take a fine needle and thread it onto a piece of cotton which makes it easier to fit (and sometimes FIND!)

 

I tend to use a modelling knife point (slipped between the coils of the spring) to manipulate the springs. And if you think the HO knuckle springs are bad, try assembling N-scale couplers...

 

Adrian

[BR60103]

As well as the skewers, I've used a thicker dowel with a wire in one end (long Z shape) to pull the trip pins. I also sometimes use the pointed dowel on the trip pins. (Can a coupler defend itself against a pointed stick?)

If the trip pins are low enough to catch on the magnets, they will also catch on the rails at points and crossings. But before setting the trip pins, check the coupler height. Else you will be setting the trip pin back again.

[rouse2037]

I agree - what a helpful group this is!

 

I too have been thinking about un/coupling methods for my new switching layout. Using Kadees and 1 magnet on Neptune Rd has proved to be a great, reliable method and I was going along the same tracks again but having read more about the skewer method, I think I may combine the two.

 

Great post from Jordan

 

Roger

[doctor quinn]

Hi Roger,

 

If you'd like some background on 40' High Cubes, they were originally built to carry domestic appliances, the interior height allows for fridges to be loaded two high and washers ands dryers to be carried three high.

 

The 40' length was chosen to match existing loading doors at factories producing these products, I'm not sure whether any have now migrated to other work - anyone else know?

 

All the best

 

Nick

[sleepyrider]

Sounds like I need an electrical equipment supplier (or manufacturer) on one of my sidings then - thanks for that!

[dave1905]

The 40' length was chosen to match existing loading doors at factories producing these products, I'm not sure whether any have now migrated to other work - anyone else know?

 

Not many of them are still in service, they weren't that popular of a car. A lot of the 40 ft cars in service now are in copper ingot service. They weight out before they cube out.

 

The 40' length was chosen to match existing loading doors at factories producing these products, I'm not sure whether any have now migrated to other work - anyone else know?

 

Not many of them are still in service, they weren't that popular of a car. A lot of the 40 ft cars in service now are in copper ingot service. They weight out before they cube out.

[dave1905]

Sounds like I need an electrical equipment supplier (or manufacturer) on one of my sidings then - thanks for that!

Not electrical supplies, appliances. Big boxes that are most empty space inside.

[doctor quinn]

Not many of them are still in service, they weren't that popular of a car.

 

I figured that might have happened Dave, as they were so specialized.

 

Nick

[CraigZ]

I tend to use a modelling knife point (slipped between the coils of the spring) to manipulate the springs.

 

Adrian

 

 

This is how I've done it for 20+ years. Spear the spring at one end where the coils are closer together, slip the other end of the spring over one of the pegs on the coupler, then gently compress the spring til it will clear the other pin. Move the 'speared' end over the other pin and gently remove the knife. Works very well.

 

And a suggestion - go for either the Kadee 148 or 158 couples, the 'whisker' couplers. Very very good centering action in most cases, more reliable than the flat spring in the #5 or #58 couplers.

 

 

[sleepyrider]

Re the High Cubes, since they make up 1/3 of my fleet (only 2 out of 6, not as bad as it first sounds), what industries would they service? Fridge and washing machine manufacturers seem obvious, but would large retail organisations eg Walmart receive such stuff by rail, along with all manner of foodstuffs etc?

[CraigZ]

Re the High Cubes, since they make up 1/3 of my fleet (only 2 out of 6, not as bad as it first sounds), what industries would they service? Fridge and washing machine manufacturers seem obvious, but would large retail organisations eg Walmart receive such stuff by rail, along with all manner of foodstuffs etc?

 

Those 40' hicubes would go to distribution centers for the products to be sent out to retailers by truck. They're neat looking cars and I like them.

[dave1905]

Cereal, styrofoam products (cups, plates, coolers, insulation, etc.), foam rubber products (cushions, car parts, etc.), furniture (chairs, sofas, armoires, buffets, book cases, etc.)

 

Walmart recieves very little by rail. Actually up until the last decade or so, retailers didn't ship that much by rail.

 

Its also era dependent. As they got older, and the rest of the 40 ft fleet was retired, they went to more general service where a 40 ft car was more important than the cubic capacity. By the current era, a 40 ft 70 ton cap high cube is a real odd duck in a world of 50-60 ft high cube, 100 ton cap cars. It has less cubic capacity than an average 50 ft car, with less square footage and no more weight capacity. So if the shipper is set up with pallets to load a 50 ft car, the 40 ft car will really screw up his loading pattern.

[JWB]

That particular type of hi-cube -- with outside ribs and sliding doors -- was a Southern Pacific design that was intended to haul copper ingots (as Dave H pointed out), thus its short length, but it was built hi-cube to carry appliances on the backhaul. I'm not sure if the Golden West Service paint is authentic, and a lot of the cars that went into Golden West were rebuilt, but I would assume that if it lasted that long, it was for that sort of specialized traffic.

[sleepyrider]

Again, thanks for the info guys, very illuminating as always!

[JWB]

Curious, I went to http://rrpicturearchives.net/rsPicture.aspx?road=VCY&Page=2 to browse the thumbs to see if there were any VCY 40-foot hi-cubes in that series. None at that site, anyhow. It's worth pointing out that Golden West Service was a last-gasp attempt by SP to maintain its freight car fleet as its financial condition deteriorated -- the cars were sold and then leased back to connecting short lines under the Golden West brand. As part of the deal, they were upgraded to match current traffic requirements.It's hard for me to imagine that such a specialized car would have been retained, and as far as I can see, it wasn't.

 

That said, it's an attractive piece of equipment, and Golden West did have a lot of 50-foot hi-cubes. I would use it for general traffic, especially lumber, so it would go to lumber yards and team tracks.