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'Tinsley Twin'


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Hi, something a little different from me.

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D4500 was converted from two Hornby Cl.08s. It is not quite finished yet especially as it is far too clean :P . Both master & slave are powered, being electrically joined motor to motor with wires leading thro' the bufferbeams and run sweetly together. The slave rear is plasticard, as are the beefed up bufferbeams. I re-used many parts from the doner models (cab hand rails for the bonnet front, buffers etc). I compromised with the cab doors (they should be sheet metel not wood) for sanity's sake :blink: . Cheers Phil.

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Hi, after sorting out the photos I took while working on D4500 I thought I'd try to show how it was done. I obtained two Hornby 08s with flush bonnet doors (2 x R2933 D3509), as here.

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Next I stripped both locos of buffers, bonnet ladders & couplings, the bodies were removed and the cab removed from one, to become the slave unit. The cab is a seperate moulding slotted onto the bonnet moulding. It had to be carefully forced off however owing to it being glued in place. Here the pair are looking alittle worse for wear!

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I should just explain my choice of prototype D4500 (13003). There were three Cl.13 as you will probably all know, but all were subtely different. To be brief all were converted from later production 08s with flush bonnet doors. All three master units had exhauster boxes on both sides forward of the tool boxes. However only D4501 (13001) had this feature on the slave unit. D4502 had small vertical grab rails located just behind the radiator front as opposed to horizontal ones on the other two. All three had the ladders removed and long hand rails attached at the bonnet front in thier olace. As D4500 didn't need the extra exhauster box on the slave unit and retained the the horizontal grab rails (as on the Hornby body) so to save the extra work I plumped for D4500. That's probably as clear as mud but hopefully things might become clearer as I progress.

The next photo shows the slave body after removing the cab.

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The lip that the cab was slid onto is visible here and I removed it with a razor saw.

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This was then filed & sanded flush to accomodate the rear backing plate.

More later, lunch time methinks, thanks for looking in cheers Phil.

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Next job-the slave unit back plate. I cut this from 10 thou plasticard after drawing around the body rear. A cut out was provided for the rear of the motor block. This plate was then cemented in place and trimmed. The floor & corner box moulding were retained as I had decided to cut down the original cab to create the rear of the slave cab area.

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I removed all the interior detail from the cab and took out the doors. The cab was cut above the angle iron moulded across the rear using a razor saw.

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The bottom lights & lamp irons were retained.

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This shows how it fits together. The control panel has been used to stengthen the rear of the body and also ensures the body still sits correctly on the chassis. Now to start building the slave control housing. I used 20 thou plasticard. Having no exact measurements of this structure I worked from photos and the dimensions already present on the model. The 2 sides were cut first and fitted.

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The blue thing at the side is the exhauster box for the master unit, cut from an old Lima body!:rolleyes: .

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The rest of the housing was built up from 20 thou plasticard again taking dimensions from the parts already in situ.

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These parts were cemented in place and left to set. The top door/cover was cut from 10 thou p/card, seen here with holes drilled for handles.

When set the corners were gently filed to give smooth slightly rounded angles to the housing.

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The body in place. A piece of scrap plastic is seen in place on the back plate, a conduit formed from 0.33 brass wire will be attached to this. Also a wire stub can be seen on the rear which passes through the plating and bends down to go through the cab floor. this is where I will fit the main control cable which joins to a socket on the master unit front below the radiator.

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This shows the conduit mentioned above in place, also the side hand rails have been fitted and the housing doors have been fitted with rudimentary details added.

Attention now turned to the front handrails which were added after the ladders were removed.

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I re-used the hand rails from the now scrap cab, drilling the holes was tricky in between the radiator vents but I got there.

Think I'll have a coffee now ;) .

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Very nice Phil not too dissimilar to the one I did several years ago with two blue 08's.

 

if you want some nuts for the buffer beam let me know?

 

Pete

 

 

Hi Pete, thanks, did you post some of that build on another forum by any chance? Thanks for the offer, vary kind, however I am writing this post in retrospect and the b/beams are already done, the how is coming up in the next post I hope. I've always been fascinated by these locos and could resist no longer B) . Cheers Phil.

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Time to tackle the buffer beams. These were a feature of class 13s being added to up the weight of the twins. I fabricated them from 40 thou black p/card. The front beams are narrower than the rear. The dimensions are taken from the original model, same width as the 08 and the depth is measured to the bottom of the front steps. I cut the rear beam to this same depth dimension. The rear beams are wider and step out at the top, this can also be copied from the original beam.

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The holes for couplings and buffers were marked and drilled, I re-used the Hornby buffers. Buffer backing plates from Shawplan were added. To represent the rivets/boltheads on th beams I used 1mm hexagonal rod (from Eilleens). The pattern (an approximation taken from photos) was marked out and 1mm holes drilled through. I did these clamped together in pairs (2 x fronts & 2 x rears) so they came out something like the same! Many 2mm bits of rod were cut and inserted into these holes :blink: . These were then flooded with plastic weld and I made sure the front portions of rod were more or less level across the face of the beam. When set the rear of the beams were shaved level with a scalpel. After ensuring the buffers fitted and were still able to spring when dry fitted to the model, I primed them with red oxide spray paint.

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The original buffer beams were filed and sanded flush to remove the moulded detail ready for fitting.

Also 3 holes were drilled for the control pipes/cables in the front master b/beam and rear slave b/beam. Next the wiring and some other bits and bobs. Cheers Phil.

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Phil

 

I did post about them on the Old RM Web they are very interesting locos.

 

Pete

 

 

Hi Pete, I was thinking of something I saw on MR forum from about 2009, however have you a web address for your posting as I wouldn't mind a peek at it . I would have missed it back then as only been on here since last year. Having said that I managed to miss ever seeing the real thing despite working right next door to Tinsley Yard (BSC 1980-82) and being in an office which overlooked the bottom end of the yard :huh: . Phil.

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Nice work. I did a 13 in TT many years ago (albeit with the wrong chassis.....)

 

Just to be really different, you should do it in the original cab-to-cab configuration - soon abandoned because of restricted visibility in both directions.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Nice work. I did a 13 in TT many years ago (albeit with the wrong chassis.....)

 

Just to be really different, you should do it in the original cab-to-cab configuration - soon abandoned because of restricted visibility in both directions.

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

Hi Mick, thanks for looking in, I had thought of doing the cab to cab configuration, however I had always really wanted to do it this way, but hey next one who knows? They still had a ladder on the left hand bonnet side at that stage, I believe and only had BR totems on the master unit. A 13 in TT sounds interesting :D . I wonder if anyone's done one in 'N'?

Cheers Phil.

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Hi, now on to the next stage, the photo below shows the outer end buffer beams in place complete with vac pipes & couplings.

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The wiring of both locos to run in tandem had been bothering me somewhat, not being much of a 'trician :blink: . However it turned out to be simple when I applied some common sense and a bit of 'O' level physics! The two locos were quite well matched running together without the connection, but one did tend to run slightly faster. The arrows A & B on the photo point to two tabs which I assumed to be the brush connections. I led a wire (taken from an old grain of wheat bulb) from A (on the slave) over the top of the motor and down behind the front wheel. This then was led undrneath to the rear b/beam and threaded thro' a pre drilled hole. Next the same was done with a wire from B this time straight down behind the wheel and back to another hole in the b/beam. On the master the same was done but the wires came forward. Trying to describe this is making my head hurt :blink: . The wires were soldered to the brush tabs using low melt solder. The wires from the slave were threaded thro' holes in the front beam of the master unit and soldered to the ends of the wires from the master's brushes, making sure that A went A & B to B. :help: . Just to point out at this stage the two were also coupled up using the Hornby screw link, which I managed free up enough to work ok. The two wires now gave a fair representation of two of the three control cables present on the prototype (if a little thick). Time for a test and :yahoo: it worked! The pair ran smoothly in tandem no probs. I was so overcome I got carried away and carried on without taking any photos :angry: . After that I'm off for a coffee, back with some detailing soon.

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Hi Phil,

 

That really does look the part and I like the way that the motor cables look like the air and control pipes.

 

I don't think I have seen a better class 13 in 4mm scale, really like the way you have captured the look of depth in the bufferbeams.

 

Cheers

 

Andy

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Hi Phil,

 

That really does look the part and I like the way that the motor cables look like the air and control pipes.

 

I don't think I have seen a better class 13 in 4mm scale, really like the way you have captured the look of depth in the bufferbeams.

 

Cheers

 

Andy

 

Hi Andy, thanks for the compliments, I have to be honest the power cables are a little over size but I'm happy with it so far, and a nice dose of Sheffield weathering will work wonders :laugh: . Cheers Phil.

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I took the oppertunity this afternoon to take a couple of photos on my bench. These should be able to show the last bits of work done, as I mentioned I got carried away and forgot to take any between wiring up and re-assembly!:angry: .

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As you may have guessed by the time the wiring was sorted the twins were well and truly permanently coupled :drinks: .This pic shows the slave cab housing painted & finished. She's been renumbered D4500 (13003), I masked of the old number and rubbed it off with a fibre glass pen. The rough surface didn't matter as I used dry print replacements lined up along the masking (still a bind tho'!).

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This shot shows the other side, The extra exhauster box on the master is evident, I cut this from an old Lima body and filed & sanded it to fit. The other transfers applied were Fox O/H warning flashes 7 on each unit including the rears. All the cabling etc is also evident here, the next pic shows more detail.

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This shows the pipes/cables well. A difficult part to research as not many photos of this area. So all I can say is this is my educated interpretation ;) . I left the vac pipes hanging free as I have a photo (can't post it but it's somewher on the web) showing this. Again the extra exhauster box is shown, also the (I assume) hand brake lever inside the slave balcony, salvaged from the original 08.

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Detail from the other side, The main control cable between the orange sockets is EZ line, an elastic material available from Bobes Hobby House in the US. It's a bit thin to my eyes or is it cos the other (electric) wires are slightly over size? I'm happy with tho':rolleyes: . The Ez line is available on E-Bay. The control cable's route thro' the rear to the floor inside can be seen here in orange in front of the brake lever. I scratched up the orange cable end on the left and the socket one the front of the master is from a Hornby Cl.31 accessory pack.

A quick word on livery, originally the 13s were delivered coupled cab to cab (1965) not long after, they were reconfigured as master nose to slave tail. The livery was as here all over Brunswick green with wasp stripes front and rear. D4500 kept the wasp stripes to the radiator and had them added to the cab rear on reconfiguration. Now 13003 (D4500) was the only 13 to have wasp stripes to the rear of the slave, when this was applied I havn't found, tho' she was repainted into blue in sept. 1972, still carrying pre TOPS no.s. I couldn't find evidence either way as to whether she had the wasp ends while green. However I decide to use modellers licence and keep them (they look good to me :rolleyes: ). The doner locos were all Darlington built as far as I'm aware and never had red coupling rods, another job for the muck shop :D . There are a couple of other compromises (the doors are one I've mentioned) but I'll let you seek them out. I've thoroughly enjoyed the research and modelling involved and that's reward in itself. Jobs to do- the slave needs a small aerial on the rear L/H bonnet where the round riveted plate is. Also it needs the muck B) . Heres a pic I took earlier that might have happened if one had escaped the torch.

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Same job, generations apart, my imaginary preservation open day.:P . Thanks for looking in, when I get round to weathering her I'll bung a couple of pics on here. Cheers Phil.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Phil

Have just come across this and I think its great I have two Bachmann o8's ready to do the conversion but have held back with them as I feel the Hornby is a better model and better running. Will now try and get the Hornby pair so that I can follow your conversion.

Many thanks for a great model

Peter

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Hi Peter, thanks for looking in and your kind comments, I'd almost forgotten I'd posted this thread :no: . I wish you luck with your project, the Hornby 08s are good to work with. If you have any questions post them here or PM me and hopefully I'll spot them. Cheers Phil.

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  • 6 months later...
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Just found this Mirrelees.

 

I like it. Ilke it alot.....

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

Hi Sean,

thanks for looking in and kind comment, I'd almost forgotten about this myself! :no:.

 

Cheers

 

Phil.

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