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Drilling a square hole


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  • RMweb Gold

I have finally taken the plunge and started to cut off the incorrect door handles on my Airfix E140 GWR B-set

 

This means cutting out (from memory) 8 square cut outs for the recessed door handles on each side, (given the 4 coaches I need to treat that's 32 identical holes to cut, each a couple of mm square.

 

Are there any special tools, or good methods that will make this easier?

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I was going to do this but chickened out! (I do have four sets to do!)

 

My thoughts involved either one 'large' hole and file square or four tiny holes and knife work. Neither really appealed and seeing the strong chance of making a co pig's ear of it I convinced myself they dont really show. I too would welcome an easy solution. (I thought about new etched sides, which would also solve the other problems of the extra window* and the weird glazing, but fails on the inconvenience and cost.)

 

* I recently tried filling in one of these as an experiment, but have still not got it smooth enough.

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Guest Natalie Graham

I have finally taken the plunge and started to cut off the incorrect door handles on my Airfix E140 GWR B-set

 

This means cutting out (from memory) 8 square cut outs for the recessed door handles on each side, (given the 4 coaches I need to treat that's 32 identical holes to cut, each a couple of mm square.

 

Are there any special tools, or good methods that will make this easier?

 

Drill a round hole and then use a square needle file?

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Some form of broach? Broaches are commonly used in metal to cut square holes but I'm not sure if you could get something small enough? Essentially you'd start with a round hole (undersize) and then push a broach through it to turn it into a square hole. They have series of progressively larger teeth which gradually remove the corners of the circular hole to form a square one. See:

 

http://www.dumont.com/prod3c.html

 

For them to work in metal you tend to need a broaching press to force them through the metal but in plastic I expect you could use one "freehand" or in some kind of jury-rigged press setup.

 

I'm not sure if they're available down to 2mm, or of price, but they're essentially how square holes would be produced in metal (except for processes like spark or wire erosion which are a bit more hardcore engineering!).

 

Alternatively, and I haven't given this too much thought, but how about a square piece of brass attached to a soldering iron, and effectively melt the holes in? Iain Rice in one of his wagon books mentions melting in handrails etc without too much trouble but you'd probably be advised to experiment with some scrap plastic first to see if the method works.

 

Regards

 

Alastair

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  • RMweb Gold

I was going to do this but chickened out! (I do have four sets to do!)

 

My thoughts involved either one 'large' hole and file square or four tiny holes and knife work. Neither really appealed and seeing the strong chance of making a co pig's ear of it I convinced myself they dont really show. I too would welcome an easy solution. (I thought about new etched sides, which would also solve the other problems of the extra window* and the weird glazing, but fails on the inconvenience and cost.)

 

* I recently tried filling in one of these as an experiment, but have still not got it smooth enough.

 

I've done one of the windows so far and I think that I have got it smooth enough. it certainly feels like it. Etched sides would have been a good option, though dealing with the inset door in the guards compartment would have been tricky I guess.

 

At the moment my thinking was between the 4 hole method (although it will be tight getting 4 holes in the space required) or one hole and open out.

 

I have had a good search without success at finding a 2mm square broache, I think the jewlers square file might be the way to go if I can find one with approximately a 2mm square.

 

Once the square is cut out the plan is to cut a batch of 2mm square sections of plasticard, pre drilled with the hole for the handle then mount them into the coach side.

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Kenton has raised a point that I will put another way. The hole is not square for it has rounded corners. I would get the Comet side for the C60/62 corridor third, clamp it somehow to the brake composite and use the apertures for the door and grab handles as templates.

 

Chris

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Guest stuartp

I assume the hole doesn't need to go all the way through ? Try drilling a 2mm hole to the depth required, then chop out the corners with the very tip of a round-ended X-acto blade used as a chisel/scraper. I've used this in the past to make cab door handle recesses on Class 26s. Mind you, I didn't have 32 to do.

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Guest Natalie Graham

To do that for the size of hole required you'd need something the size of a watchmaker's escapement file. Not cheap.

 

No you don't. An ordinary needle file tapers to a point, I just measured one that was lying on the bench and there's a good 25mm before it gets to 2mm square. You don't have to have the whole file through the hole just work with the tip.

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No you don't. An ordinary needle file tapers to a point, I just measured one that was lying on the bench and there's a good 25mm before it gets to 2mm square. You don't have to have the whole file through the hole just work with the tip.

Ah - but to get a square corner you really need to use a triangular file so that you can get rid of the radius in the corner.

 

However we're trying to solve a problem of a large number of holes that have to be the same. That's the difficulty. Nono of us have come up with that yet.

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  • RMweb Gold

I have a press tool that is used to punch holes that are round/square rectangular into metal sheet.

 

Obviously it's meant for stuff a lot bigger and hardier than plastic sheet, but the principle remains the same.

 

Punch out the square hole and back it with a sheet of plastikard with the hole pre-drilled for the handle.

 

Making the punch would not be a problem; making the female part could pose some problems. I'd be more worried about accurately placing the carriage side in the press and getting the hole in the correct place.

 

The other, lazy, way of doing this is ask how many people would be able to say that's the wrong shape for normal viewing distances.

 

I know I couldn't.

 

Regards

 

Richard

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Ah - but to get a square corner you really need to use a triangular file so that you can get rid of the radius in the corner.

 

However we're trying to solve a problem of a large number of holes that have to be the same. That's the difficulty. Nono of us have come up with that yet.

 

There's no need to get rid of all the radius as the holes are round cornered. The necessity of getting all the holes the same is why I convinced myself to leave well alone. I think some sort of jig would be almost essential.

 

I'm not keen on melting things in. One slip could be disastrous. (Guess how I know?)

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I think you will need to make something like this:-

 

post-1730-0-06351100-1320020522_thumb.jpg

 

 

This is simply a piece of 2mm steel with a hole and two 'V' grooves in the end. it can be cleaned up a bit with a small grinding point in a dremel or similar. You can use it either mounted in a graver handle or as a punch/chisel with a hammer.

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Ah - but to get a square corner you really need to use a triangular file so that you can get rid of the radius in the corner.

 

However we're trying to solve a problem of a large number of holes that have to be the same. That's the difficulty. Nono of us have come up with that yet.

 

Refer to post 8 above!

 

Chris

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To do that for the size of hole required you'd need something the size of a watchmaker's escapement file. Not cheap.

You use a triangular file to make a square hole because unless you hold the file exactly square to the hole on each stroke you will get an oversquare, or cushion shaped, hole. A triangular file allows you to work on each face of the hole with the minimum effect on the other faces.

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