Sandy Harper Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 This is a David Andrews kit and I have started the build with the 3500 Gal tender. I have modified it as I will be picking up via the tender only through de-insulated Slaters wheels, plastic hornblocks, split axles and springing on the front two axles. It has so far gone together superbly! I am now looking forward to the loco. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Madog Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 More , more - please! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 It has so far gone together superbly! I am now looking forward to the loco. It certainly looks as if it has and I'm looking forward to the loco as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Very nice work there Sandy, look forward to seeing the rest of the build . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 This photo shows the insulated parts in more detail. The wire, that looks like a conventional pickup wire, (which it is!) also acts as a spring as it rests on the top of the wheel bearing. It needs to be attached to a small piece of copper clad strip to maintain the insulation from the chassis sides. A wire from the DCC chip will be attached to the copper clad to transfer the current via the chip, through a plug and socket, to the motor in the loco. It means that there is no need to have the complications of fitting pickups to the loco. The alternative option would be to insulate the chassis sides from each other with insulated spacers instead of the insulated horn blocks. When fitting these insulated horn blocks ensure that the chassis does not come in to contact with the wheel bearing keeper bar as you could have the situation where the axle box, at the limit of its downward travel, makes contact with the keeper bar and therefore the chassis side, and causing a short if the one on the other side does the same. I also, (belt and braces) fit an insulated washer on the axle between the wheel and bearing to avoid the possibility of a short occurring there. The plastic horn block is attached to the chassis with Arildite and, for additional security, a pin through each 'leg' of the block and the chassis (You can just see the end of the brass pin in the photo, filed off flush. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 For some reason the photo didn't attach!!?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Hi Sandy, so we'll see it running at Llanbedr on the 19th of this month then? It's looking good. cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Hi Sandy, Very nicely illustrated in those photos and I am glad you included them as sometimes an explanation is not enough, I am a fan of the American pick up method usually but at least with this method its DCC friendly and cannot earth out at the buffers or draw bar. Certainly worth a go on my next build, ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Hi Martyn I used to be a fan of the american system too until I was converted by messers Rodway and Sumsion who now use this method exclusivly and have no problems with it although they tend to use the insulated spacer system rather than the hornblocks. Hi Mike I may have a rolling chassis by the 19th!!!!!!! Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 That looks lovely Sandy. The detail photos are very helpful. Have you insulated the axles yourself? I've been keen to do so but a bit weedy in actually getting round to it. Is it particularly tricky? I'm looking forward to seeing the loco build. If possible can we have some step-by-step photos? Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 Hi Simon, I think you'll find the axles are live and not insulated, if you look closely you can see how Sandy has cut the axle in half but at the same time insulated them by pressing Araldite into the cut. Also in the third photo down you can see Sandy has put a piece of wire between the hub and the wheel to transfer the power to each axle from the wheels. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted November 11, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 11, 2011 Lovely work. Can I use the old joke about calling it George. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Lovely work. Can I use the old joke about calling it George. ??? Sorry you have lost me on this one!! Simon/Martyn Yes the axles are 'split using the 'two holes and z cut filled with Araldite' method and the wheels de-insulated as described by Martyn. It is very easy to do if you are careful. Drill accurately and cut carefully. As the rest of the build progresses I'll post more photos. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted November 11, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 11, 2011 ??? Sorry you have lost me on this one!! Simon/Martyn Yes the axles are 'split using the 'two holes and z cut filled with Araldite' method and the wheels de-insulated as described by Martyn. It is very easy to do if you are careful. Drill accurately and cut carefully. As the rest of the build progresses I'll post more photos. Sandy A bit obscure but we have model seagulls on a layout and we call them George after the American actor George Segal. Then again, we call our coal trains "Robbie". Time to fetch me coat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 A bit obscure but we have model seagulls on a layout and we call them George after the American actor George Segal. Then again, we call our coal trains "Robbie". Time to fetch me coat. You must be a Times crossword fan!!!!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 That looks lovely Sandy. The detail photos are very helpful. Have you insulated the axles yourself? I've been keen to do so but a bit weedy in actually getting round to it. Is it particularly tricky? I'm looking forward to seeing the loco build. If possible can we have some step-by-step photos? Cheers Simon Hi Simon I went through doing split axles in some detail here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=37628 starting about 1/2 way down the page. I'm now working on a Fowler 2-6-2 tank which will be all split axle including the pony trucks and the driven axle using an ABC insulated bearing gearbox. Sandy - nice to see your work appearing on RMWeb, even if it is GW (gets hard hat....) Richard Lambert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 My excuse Richard is, ....... 'I'm building it for a friend!' Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 Progress so far. The frames have been erected. The rear main driver bearings are fixed and the gear box will be attached to the rear axle. The front driver bearings have had the axle hole elongated (provision is made for this with a half etch cutout) to allow the bearings to drop under spring pressure, which will be added later. I have assembled the dummy inside valve gear but it may need modifying to allow the bogie to swing correctly. A trial fitting of the motor/gearbox showed that the final gear drive wheel fouled the vertical part of the rear spacer and you can see that I have removed part of it to allow adequate clearance. Sandy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 I have now started on the Bogie which has inner and outter frames. Straight forward to assemble although the instructions lead you astray slightly with the diagram of the rear inner spacer which needs to be attached 'upside down' for it to make the inner and outer frames align correctly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Seagull under test on the rolling road I use this arrangement rather than keep soldering/unsoldering the motor tags The spring/axle box castings are more like jewelry. They are superb. I 'll start on the footplate on Sunday but tomorrow she is going to Llanbedr for a few laps of the test track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ressaldar Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 the camera will be there! cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 How do Sandy, what was the chance of us two building the same class of loco? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 I also, (belt and braces) fit an insulated washer on the axle between the wheel and bearing to avoid the possibility of a short occurring there. Hello Sandy, I've just been rereading your thread and noticed the above. The wheel centre is live to the axle and rim along with the bearing so no need to use an insulated washer. The Slater's wheels are they a push fit onto the axles? Looking a nice build. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Hello Sandy, I've just been rereading your thread and noticed the above. The wheel centre is live to the axle and rim along with the bearing so no need to use an insulated washer. The Slater's wheels are they a push fit onto the axles? Looking a nice build. OzzyO. Spooky or what!!! I was concerned that the wheel rim might contact the chassis, there is no shoulder on the slaters square axle bearing, and if that happened on both sides of the chassis on different wheels sets, at the same time, you could get a short via the chassis. The insulated washer was just to prevent that possibility. The new Slaters outside framed axles still have the push fit wheels but the crank is now fixed to a square end on the axle, similar to their standard wheels but with a finer screw which needs a smaller size Allen key. I made one up from a broken mini screwdriver. A collegue who has just completed a 'Bird' found that the clearances between the outside and inside frames fouled the new type crank pin. Being screw fit on the square end there is no way of tweaking them out to achieve additional clearance so he has reverted back to the old D type axle. I'll keep you posted on what I find when on start on the footplate and outside frames. Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Spooky or what!!! I was concerned that the wheel rim might contact the chassis, there is no shoulder on the slaters square axle bearing, and if that happened on both sides of the chassis on different wheels sets, at the same time, you could get a short via the chassis. The insulated washer was just to prevent that possibility. Kind regards Sandy Hello Sandy, I can see what your saying on this but the insulated washer won't help a lot, but if you were to put a strip of say 10 thou plasticard along the top edge of where the wheel rims could run this may help more. Or just above the viewing line of the outside frames. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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