Grant Newhouse Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hello all I have an old Airfix 14xx kicking around that I bought cheaply at a train show a few years back. It runs like a three legged horse and I’ve decided it needs a new chassis. I plan to purchase a Comet chassis but, as its my first chassis kit purchase I have a few beginners questions. 1. When purchasing Romford driving wheels, are they sold by the wheel or by the set/axel and do they include crankpins 2. Are the Markits prototypical wheel packs the best option for wheels and all associated parts 3. Are there any major advantages of a 50:1 gearbox vs. a 38:1 gearbox, and how difficult are they to assemble. I have never done any chassis building before and I am also wondering whether the Comet 14xx chassis could be well built by a beginner. Thank you and regards Grant Newhouse Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 You can buy Romford / Markit drivers on their own and will need axles and a packet of crankpins or a complete set for the loco, ref BR 14xx Alan Gibsons (which will come out cheaper) are sold in pairs with an axle but you will need crankpins Buy a gearbox rather than a motor mount and gears, I would go for 50-1 for slow running Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coombe Barton Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 There's also the High Level chassis you could consider - http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/48005-high-level-14xx-chassis/ for some pix High l;evel kits are straightforward if you are prepared to accept the complexity. I can't comment on Comet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
artisan100 Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hello Grant, As already explained, Romford/Markits drivers are sold per wheel. It is possible to buy a wheelset direct from Markits but I believe that it will contain the 'de-luxe' crankpins rather than the standard ones, and so will come out a little more expensive. We usually have the drivers, trailing wheels, axles and crankpins suitable for the 14xx in stock. The Comet 14xx chassis can be built in one of two ways. It can either be built completely rigid, but the difficulty with that is that it is very difficult to weight the body correctly to get good pickup and traction. Alternatively it can be built with a pivoting sub-chassis that helps overcome that problem inherent in all 4 coupled locos. It's not the easiest in the range to build, but then neither is it the most difficult. Have a read of Building Loco Chassis The Comet Way on the website (www.cometmodels.co.uk) and you'll get an idea of the tools and techniques required. As for motors and gearboxes you will find that all of our 50+ chassis have listed on them a suitable combination that we know will fit. For the 14xx, I would definitely recommend the 50:1 GB1 rather than the 38:1 GB3. Give me a ring to ask for any more advice you require. Happy to help. Geoff Brewin Comet Models Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Grant I gave a quick reply earlier as I was going out. I have 2 of these chassis both of which were built by others. Onr is built as a flexi chassis and is powered by a RG4, the other is built ridgid and has a Mashima motor with a Comet gearbox. Both are superb runners. Romford / Markit wheels are easy to use if a little expensive, and may be the best type to use as a first time kit builder. They are easy to quarter, and providing you are carefull can take them on and off at will. You will need a Romford type screwdriver tofit the axle nuts and crankpins. The other benefit of Romfords is that you can fit un-insulated wheels to one side if you wish, so you only have to pick up power to one side of wheels, picking up the other polarity from the chassis. Alan Gibson wheels come out a bit cheaper, they do not self quarter and should not be removed too often from their axles. To me they look a bit finer, but that may just be an optical illusion as they have blackened tyres, also you will need pickups on both sets of wheels. I have built other Comet chassis and can highly recommend their kits and the service and advice provided by Comet models (satisfied customer) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Newhouse Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Hello everyone Thank you for the advice, I just put the order in. I have decided that a 50:1 gearbox and Romford wheels are the best option. I’m looking forward to the build and I’ll post pictures for anyone interested. Thank you and regards Grant Newhouse Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 I have just acquired a 14xx with a Comet chassis, it has a 38-1 gearbox with mashima motor and Romford wheels. It is Dcc with a Lenz chip. It was advertised as needing the motor mount and the pick ups sorting out. I have sorted the pick ups but cannot see how to secure the gearbox/motor. Is it fixed to the chassis in any way apart from the axle passing through it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Terry Normally its up to the builder to choose if he/she wants it floating or attached. It also depends on the chassis and if there are any frame spacers near by. Also on other (larger) chassis it depends which wheel is being driven and what way round the motor is. Compensation beams or sprung axle boxes have to be kept clear of anything that might stop them working. Sometimes a blob of Bluetack is used, or a blob of bathroom sealent, bigger voids may have a piece of expanded polystyreen or a bit of foam in them. In other words if you do want to fix the motor to the chassis, what ever comes to hand and does not get in the way can be used. Best to have something that is not too ridgid so the vibrations are not transmitted into the chassis, or have something rubbery in between Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isambard Kingdom Brunel Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Terry Normally its up to the builder to choose if he/she wants it floating or attached. It also depends on the chassis and if there are any frame spacers near by. Also on other (larger) chassis it depends which wheel is being driven and what way round the motor is. Compensation beams or sprung axle boxes have to be kept clear of anything that might stop them working. Sometimes a blob of Bluetack is used, or a blob of bathroom sealent, bigger voids may have a piece of expanded polystyreen or a bit of foam in them. In other words if you do want to fix the motor to the chassis, what ever comes to hand and does not get in the way can be used. Best to have something that is not too ridgid so the vibrations are not transmitted into the chassis, or have something rubbery in between Thanks thats helpful, I will part dismantle to see which will be the best option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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