Karhedron Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I am looking for advice on how to use lining transfers. I know the basics like applying over a gloss finish and varnishing for protection but I have a more fundemental question. How do you keep them straight? I have done some IC coaches in 00 and it was very hard to get the lining transfers to go on straight. Long thin transfers like this just don't hold their straightness very well. I now model in N gauge and I imagine that it will be even worse. Applying the black/gold lining to maroon coaches seems very difficult indeed. One suggestion I have heard is to place thick masking tape in the right position ot provide a straight edge. Has anyone tried this technique? Are there better ways of doing it? Any help or advice greatly appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted December 4, 2009 Share Posted December 4, 2009 I use normally use HMRS which are pressfix . Cut the a line as close to the decal as possible on both sides. Place one end of the decal on model ensuring the first 1/4 in is straight and in the right position. Then gently take the decal keeping taut to the other side and gently place on the surface. Check with a ruler if not straight lift and try again. Once happy rub over with a finger to exlude air. Waterslide is easier place on model line up by eye then check with a decent ruler I always use steel ones to ensure straight. This all in 4mm good luck with 2mm tooooo small for my eyes!! Mick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Lo and behold, the latest issue of Model Rail has a "How to" guide on lining transfers. Thanks Mick as well for your input. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KJ200 Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 I always use a strip of masking tape as a guide while applying anything that needs to be kept straight. Use something like Tamiya tape which won't lift the underlying paint, and just keep applying until you get a line that you are happy with. Karl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 How do you get around relief? EG. If you've soldered door handles etc. Or would it be better to add these later. Getting a reasonable finish is easy but applying the lining is hard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
russellwar Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I am looking for advice on how to use lining transfers. I know the basics like applying over a gloss finish and varnishing for protection but I have a more fundemental question. How do you keep them straight? I have done some IC coaches in 00 and it was very hard to get the lining transfers to go on straight. Long thin transfers like this just don't hold their straightness very well. I now model in N gauge and I imagine that it will be even worse. Applying the black/gold lining to maroon coaches seems very difficult indeed. One suggestion I have heard is to place thick masking tape in the right position ot provide a straight edge. Has anyone tried this technique? Are there better ways of doing it? Any help or advice greatly appreciated. I gave up in N I did however get a fine head for my bob moore pen and was very impressed. I know this doesn't help, but may be woth considering. In honesty, the biggest problem I found was twisting so I did not know what side should stick. And this was with small lines Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
the penguin of doom Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 Hi there. Firstly, I don't claim to be an expert. I could in fact be accused of cheating. I take a measurement from the solebar of the stock that needs lining and then just draw a line along the body with a ball point pen. That gives me a nice straight line to apply the transfer over. Hope this is of some help and (BTW) this is an interesting topic with some good advice. Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted January 21, 2010 Share Posted January 21, 2010 How do you get around relief? EG. If you've soldered door handles etc. Or would it be better to add these later. Getting a reasonable finish is easy but applying the lining is hard Depends exactly what the relief is. Grilles should just have the decal applied over them and use Microsol or Microset to soften it and make it sit down into the relief. For things like doorhandles I'd presume that the real loco wouldn't have a line across a doorhandle in which case I would likely just shape the decal to fit aorund it - may need to be done by matching several bits of decal. I'd probably not add things afterwards unless you can be sure it won't risk damaging the finish - and obviously you can't solder to the surface (even from the back side) after this. Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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