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1:32 Scale Class 40 scratch build


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Very interesting.

I would love to do "Falcon" in 7mm, and plasticard seems the way, since I don't have the skills to do CAD drawings and get it etched.

 

How do you intend doing the grilles?

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Hello Michael.

 

I just found this thread and have had a quick flick through the proceeding pages to "catch up".

 

What a fantastic idea and a cracking build so far. I saw the 40 at Warley and immidiately wondered if I could fit it inside my coat..... :nono:

 

I would love to have a loco in such a large scale, (I'm going to be doing a little in O gauge over the next year or so), and this and the Deltic will be great once they're done.

 

I'm watching with interest.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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Very interesting.

I would love to do "Falcon" in 7mm, and plasticard seems the way, since I don't have the skills to do CAD drawings and get it etched.

 

How do you intend doing the grilles?

 

Jeff

 

Grills?, well!, BF&I LOL (Brute Force and Ignorance), the class 40 is quiet easy....ish, all the grills are the same size, ie in 1:32, 30mm wide (except one), and all consist of 11 vanes, the only down side is that the angle changes through out the radius, at the top they're almost flat, at the bottom they have a distinct downward tilt, whether you can discern that in 1:32 remains to be seen. The height of the grill is 11mm so simple math dictates 11 vanes at 0.5mm and 11 spacers at 0.5mm. I have two choices, build all the grills as individual units or build one and cast the rest, if casting you probably wont be able to get the change in angle, building individually I'll be able to score the grill and give it a slight downward bend, as I say will the effort be worth it or discernible remains to be seen.

 

The idea will be to build up the vanes from 0.5mm thick strips, say 7mm wide for the vane and 5-6mm for the spacers, the spacers will be set back from the vane edge by 1-2mm?, which ever looks best really and will have to be layered to follow the cant rail curve (that will be the hardest part), once complete, they will be trimmed and inserted into the openings, chances are I'll build them in blocks 100mm long, then cut into three, fettled to suit the openings for a snug fit. On the Mk III model I'll definitely cast them, and maybe add them to the build before the skins go on, but then you have to make sure the edges of the skin are accurate and square, they'll be no fettling once the grill section is in there.

 

Now the grills on the Deltic are different, they are slatted but they are much finer so in that instance a etch grill will probably be a better option, I think?.

 

Plasticard is great to work with, the only care you need is to make sure you don't take too much off, files and sandpaper help but a sharp knife is the best tool, I use a Tamiya scriber, never used one before, makes a huge difference to cutting neat straight lines with no burr and perpendicular cuts, a knife traditionally cuts a V groove and the displaced plastic forms ridges either side of the cut at the top, traditionally , knives do not cut plastic, merely displace it from the cut to the edges, a scriber actually removes the material and thus gives a better cut, sorry if thats an egg sucking lesson LOL.

 

Good luck with the Falcon, some tricky bits to get right on the body moulding and that cab front will be a bear to get right, like 47's and 56's the shape and location of the windscreens is critical to the overall look of the 'face', some very subtle curves and angles on those cab fronts to replicate, I'd love to do a 56 but know that cab front will take more skill than I currently have, and the bogie's are horrendously complicated, class 60 are a better bet, less curves and more flat planes, same for a 58, all possible future project candidates. Think in small sub assemblies, try to reverse engineer the loco into what some one at Airfix might produce, don't bend smaller radii, file it or round it off with sand paper, it might be easier to form a 10mm curve from 5 laminations of 2mm Plasticard than trying to bend a sheet around the curve.

 

Kindest Michael

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Hello Michael.

 

I just found this thread and have had a quick flick through the proceeding pages to "catch up".

 

What a fantastic idea and a cracking build so far. I saw the 40 at Warley and immidiately wondered if I could fit it inside my coat..... :nono:

 

I would love to have a loco in such a large scale, (I'm going to be doing a little in O gauge over the next year or so), and this and the Deltic will be great once they're done.

 

I'm watching with interest.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

 

Thank you, hopefully I'll stumble over something that'll be of interest to you :). That class 40 was very nice, though suffered in the area most large models of the class 40 suffer, the cant rail curve, very hard to form that with all those grill openings, its hard enough in 7mm but in 5" I'd think it'd be a real hand full. The nose wasn't quite the right shape but the overall impact far outweighed those little niggles, I loved the attention to detail on the weathering, especially the bogies, which I suspect were actually that oily and not fake weathering. I'd love to do one, or a Deltic in 5", not a working model but a show case one, imagine the size of speakers you could get into that!.

 

I've been watching your work as well, very nice and accomplished.

 

Kindest Michael

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Wow, yes. That would be a heck of a racket, in a good sense of course. I seem to remember the roof fan wirking too, but that might be a figment of my imagination?

 

Anywho, thanks for taking the time to look at my work and thanks for the comments.

 

Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to seeing things as they progress.

 

Cheers.

 

Sean.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok back to the Class 40, this is the second attempt at the nose, the old nose was not going anywhere fast except the bin!, so re-designed the core structure, re skinned and for a primary skin its not too shabby, the bonnet curve seems to have gone awol where the second mans screen will be but that can be smoothed out before the final skin goes on. Not sure about the nose curve (where the nose door goes) or the nose corner radii, will mull them over for a while, mind, it's too late now to do anything other than mild titivation. The bonnet edge will be rounded off when all the skins are in place, easier to do it that way that try to bend a skin around that sharp radius. There is no primary skin on the cab/ nose side as yet, maybe add that tomorrow and begin to work up the cab door and window pillars.

 

post-4086-0-41613800-1330639873_thumb.jpg

 

post-4086-0-89650000-1330639874_thumb.jpg

 

post-4086-0-34429000-1330639876_thumb.jpg

 

Kindest Michael

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Thanks, initially I did plan to make the body from three castings, the cabs and the body, but I found myself getting bogged down in the whys and wherefores of will it mould well and how to achieve the model with a view to casting, in the end I got so fed up of trying to work out undercuts, internal support and such like that I decided to just build it as a stand alone model, in which case I have two cabs to build, the second one should be easier as all the working out for the core structure and skinning will have been done.

 

The roof could be problematical, especially at the front end where there is little support, but I have a cunning plan m'lord, more cunning than a fox that's been to a school of cunningness LOL, we'll see, it'll either work or be a complete flop :).

 

Kindest Michael

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