johndon Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 the replacement runs well on straights but point areas stop n lights out Mine is doing exactly the same - stops on points around 50% of the time... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
southernelectric Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I ordered my blue one from the Class 40 Preserevation Society and I'll probably also go for the non-sound green one when it comes. If you are looking for a blue one, Rails and Kernow are showing as having stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royaloak Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) I seem to recall the Strathwood Class 40 book has a picture of D200 ex works in Blue. I'll try root it out and see if it's dated. Cheers. Sean. Janes Rail Portfolio 1 The 40s page 62 has a picture of 200 ex-works at Crewe on 10 May 1970. Edit- Its the same photo linked to earlier but am leaving this post up so you know where the photo was published. Edited January 18, 2014 by royaloak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Mine is doing exactly the same - stops on points around 50% of the time... John I'll think the new design of pick ups via the grooves in the brass axle bushes is causing intermittent contact etc. Contact now has to made from the wheel/axle through the brass bush and finally via the pick up strip located in the brass bush groove. Keeping the 2 main contact areas clean will be virtually impossible. Although it has 6 axle drive, only 8 wheels have pick ups, unlike a 37 etc which has 12. Fitting new wiper pick ups to all 12 driven wheels (a la 37 etc) should make a big improvement, and it will also be much easier to keep them clean etc. Edited January 18, 2014 by tractor_37260 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johndon Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I've had to change the pickups on mine due to the P4 wheelset I've fitted so I'm not using Bachmann's arrangement - they are now wiping on the back on the wheels themselves, still only 8 wheels though... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRIAN T Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 I'll think the new design of pick ups via the grooves in the brass axle bushes is causing intermittent contact etc. Contact now has to made from the wheel/axle through the brass bush and finally via the pick up strip located in the brass bush groove. Keeping the 2 main contact areas clean will be virtually impossible. Although it has 6 axle drive, only 8 wheels have pick ups, unlike a 37 etc which has 12. Fitting new wiper pick ups to all 12 driven wheels (a la 37 etc) should make a big improvement, and it will also be much easier to keep them clean etc. The twins 10000/10001 have the same pickup arrangement ,and the same problem ( mine anyway ) but I sprayed the bottom of the bogies with servisol contact cleaner and lo and behold ,no stopping and no intermittent sound over points,while it was running , so I let it run in for 20 mins or so as I don't think it's a permanent fix,I just wanted to prove it was the pickups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drgj Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Be carefukl with contact cleaner or switch cleaner because it makes a good paint stripper! Dr Gerbil- those are the sounds of a 50 I remember. The big engine plus the loud roar of the hoover system. Edited January 18, 2014 by drgj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Don't suppose there's anyone who could post an image of the bogie top mounted steam pipes or dimensions thereof?. I understand they were different at each end but were the pipes the same on A end and B end bogies or one of each on each bogie, ie was the setup the same under both drivers side cab and therefore secondmans cab was different? Edited January 19, 2014 by GRUNFOS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin_R Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Got mine this afternoon ran it in for an hour each way on the rolling road then cleaned the wheels as there looked dirty, put it on the track and all lights flickered as I put it on the track. I then sent it round the layout and it kept on stopping & starting (with all the lights coming on for a split second as it stopped) so cleaned the track (not that any dirt came off0 and same again, I then turned the loco around & had same problem at different places going the other way. So I took the body off plus the bogies to see if too much grease was dripping onto the contacts, that was cleaned out of excess grease and reassembled. Still the same problem loco stops lights come on for a second and go off as the loco stalls. Also the same problem happens on my DC loop stops at random places, Anyone else had this problem? I just hope there are more to replace my faulty one. Stu Picked up my 40 yesterday but when I got home and placed on track no sign of life from the motor although the cab and directional lights are all working correctly! I swopped the chip for a blanking plate and checked on DC. The same results so looks like Monday is take it back and hope there is another one in stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gridwatcher Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Hi It looks as if it's going to interesting, trying to fit a bass enhanced speaker or any other speaker into that body. The new circuit board doesn't have the same room. And even if you kept the old speaker those springy contacts will make using black tac a non starter. Time for the trusty old soldering iron to make an appearance again. Regards Stephen Stephen. Why do you want to fit a bass enhanced speaker? They have clearly designed it for the 28mm round speaker and as you correctly point out will make sealing the back harder BUT the 28mm makes a heck of a lot more din than the 22 and I will probably leave the wires on the decoder and not trust Bachmann's brass contacts. Speakers on the way from Digitrains,. We use the same one on the Duffs and everyone comments on how good they sound. I would fear that the 'bass;' jobs will muffle the whistle too much. Sound fitted one will need reblown anyway I guess too as Bryan's is miles better than the SWD one. My Lenz kit has packed up so nothing happening here at the moment!! Si Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted January 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Pricing on sound versions seems to have gone off the rails Sound fitted locos used to carry a premium of just under the cost of fitting a ready blown chip but now.... Non sound version - £114 Sound version - £244 Difference - £130 Cost of ready blown sound chip from Howes - £117 Cost of unblown chips from SWD - £87, cost of adding sound to that £15 = £102 Reckon the sound version is somewhat over priced? Phil Edited January 19, 2014 by Phil Bullock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold stovepipe Posted January 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 19, 2014 Probably yes, as most seem to be doing them at a discount. Class 40 PS are doing the sound one for £188.40 + £4.95 p&p http://www.cfps.co.uk/sales.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) Had a couple of hours spare this afternoon, so decided to make a start on adding extra pick-ups to the new 40. It was a bit tricky to solder the PB strip and also keep it in alignment - but I got there in the end. Even with just one bogie done, it makes a big difference in running quality- no flickering lights at all, or hesitation/stalling etc. No scope now for bad pick-up using the (poor) originals + 12 new ones ! HTH Ken Edited January 19, 2014 by tractor_37260 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gridwatcher Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Seems crazy to need to...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Don't suppose there's anyone who could post an image of the bogie pipes prior to being fitted to thier models or dimensions. I understand they were different at each end but were the pipes the same on A end and B end bogies or one of each on each bogie, ie was the setup the same under both drivers side cab and therefore secondmans cab was different? Are you perhaps referring to the thick bogie side mounted pipes (steam ??) that on a model help to hide the gap between the nose and bogies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUNFOS Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Are you perhaps referring to the thick bogie side mounted pipes (steam ??) that on a model help to hide the gap between the nose and bogies. There the ones I was trying to explain. Didn't a very good job though, was the end of a very long day! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Seems crazy to need to...... Hi Simon The poor design of the originals resulting in intermittent pick up with the resulting flickering lights/stalling/bad slow speed running etc as many have already discovered, make this a very worthwhile mod. The standard pick-up arrangement on this model is, as far as I'm concerned a backward step, the design etc and also that it only picks up on 8 wheels, and over time will be very prone to poor contact in the vital areas, and as for cleaning "a nightmare" Yes crazy maybe. but the results speak for themselves. Cheers Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIRTY DIESEL Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thanks for all the advice so far, Nice mod there mate, but why should you have to do that and why could n't Bachmann have made the middle wheel a pick up wheel also? I rang Hattons about mine on Saturday and was told none left and not getting anymore and was advised to contact Bachmann. As I would not be able to carry out that mod I've got no choice if I want to keep it, I'm going to strip it down again and clean those contacts with a fibre pencil seem to work on my class 85 & CEP as the same problem was starting to effect them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gridwatcher Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Hi Simon The poor design of the originals resulting in intermittent pick up with the resulting flickering lights/stalling/bad slow speed running etc as many have already discovered, make this a very worthwhile mod. The standard pick-up arrangement on this model is, as far as I'm concerned a backward step, the design etc and also that it only picks up on 8 wheels, and over time will be very prone to poor contact in the vital areas, and as for cleaning "a nightmare" Yes crazy maybe. but the results speak for themselves. Cheers Ken Ken. Not a jibe at you at all mate. Meant that it seems crazy that we need to go to these sort of legths with brand new RtR stock?! Think this would happen with German or American stuff?...... err no Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Ken. Not a jibe at you at all mate. Meant that it seems crazy that we need to go to these sort of legths with brand new RtR stock?! Think this would happen with German or American stuff?...... err no No problem Simon - not taken as a jibe at all - Trust Botchmann - if it's NOT broken and it works - let's just fix it anyway ( ie revise it for the worse) ! More importantly, lets hope they do not roll out this revision on forthcoming models Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Had a couple of hours spare this afternoon, so decided to make a start on adding extra pick-ups to the new 40. It was a bit tricky to solder the PB strip and also keep it in alignment - but I got there in the end. Even with just one bogie done, it makes a big difference in running quality- no flickering lights at all, or hesitation/stalling etc. No scope now for bad pick-up using the (poor) originals + 12 new ones ! HTH Ken Thanks. Any chance of a photo of the PB alone before you attach it to the other bogie please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Thanks. Any chance of a photo of the PB alone before you attach it to the other bogie please? Yep no bother - I'll do a "how to" in stages with photos etc, when I do the other bogie next week 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the-gog Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Yep no bother - I'll do a "how to" in stages with photos etc, when I do the other bogie next week Brilliant. Thanks. It's sad we have to do these things on new models. RWJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) There the ones I was trying to explain. Didn't a very good job though, was the end of a very long day! These pipes were not supplied with the new 40 model - fitted or otherwise. Only rad frost shields and an optional "plug" for the boiler exhaust port came as extras. Bogie mounted steam pipes could be made up from mains T&E cable (the solid copper core part) - around 1.75/2mm should be suitable. HTH Edited January 19, 2014 by tractor_37260 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LJC Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Got mine this afternoon ran it in for an hour each way on the rolling road then cleaned the wheels as there looked dirty, put it on the track and all lights flickered as I put it on the track. I then sent it round the layout and it kept on stopping & starting (with all the lights coming on for a split second as it stopped) so cleaned the track (not that any dirt came off0 and same again, I then turned the loco around & had same problem at different places going the other way. So I took the body off plus the bogies to see if too much grease was dripping onto the contacts, that was cleaned out of excess grease and reassembled. Still the same problem loco stops lights come on for a second and go off as the loco stalls. Also the same problem happens on my DC loop stops at random places, Anyone else had this problem? I just hope there are more to replace my faulty one. Stu Straight out the box mine doing more less the same except when it stopped on points it briefly started to go the other way of it's own accord ? LJC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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