Bachmann Class 40 32-475DC and 32-480DS

['CHARD]

Some nice "Modelling" !  especially a different identity on each side, I like that - food for thought.  BTW photos on flicker, would suggest ? that 140 carried a single warning flash beside the centre bodyside door, on at least one side.

 

I tend to agree, here:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/andy_hoare/5312351461/

 

and t'other side, here:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55547205@N07/5581227474/in/photolist-9vcftU-eaBzh7-iE34RA-cotCyA-ejqVGm-96Ud5o-9Mvu77-8HR1ic-e2xz5h-e4ZHYu-9q4XQH-bj6Nwz-f7umMX-b8AXnB-e3gPVX-d86BLj-8o76Ru-cvhg8o-h48fgu-c4kYnA-bQu348-bQu37g-7VFakV-bvG3mZ-aZSD3z-aQRiBi-aQRhER-a2q3bs-bUnbT4-f6DnZr-dBkvoi-eeewdM-akx7pz-8PHAmd-iVDSjn-fktMHz-gQgLyK-d81qCb-hv9EvU-g98h61-9Wcj4t-fh2u5W-9dXmip-8JJv9x-fFDVX8-7Lp2Nj-7MBeRr-7MFeWQ-7MFdz1-7Lk3Zx-9KB3jN

Edited January 24, 2014 by 'CHARD

[tractor_37260]

I tend to agree, here:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/andy_hoare/5312351461/

 

and t'other side, here:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55547205@N07/5581227474/in/photolist-9vcftU-eaBzh7-iE34RA-cotCyA-ejqVGm-96Ud5o-9Mvu77-8HR1ic-e2xz5h-e4ZHYu-9q4XQH-bj6Nwz-f7umMX-b8AXnB-e3gPVX-d86BLj-8o76Ru-cvhg8o-h48fgu-c4kYnA-bQu348-bQu37g-7VFakV-bvG3mZ-aZSD3z-aQRiBi-aQRhER-a2q3bs-bUnbT4-f6DnZr-dBkvoi-eeewdM-akx7pz-8PHAmd-iVDSjn-fktMHz-gQgLyK-d81qCb-hv9EvU-g98h61-9Wcj4t-fh2u5W-9dXmip-8JJv9x-fFDVX8-7Lp2Nj-7MBeRr-7MFeWQ-7MFdz1-7Lk3Zx-9KB3jN

Another point the above photos show, is that the lamp iron on the centre doors is lower down.  I've already considered changing my model to 40 143 but it also had these "lower lamp irons" and as they are well done on the model, it's not straight forward to shift them neatly ? agh !!

 

Just noticed Hattons' have 40 141 back up on their web-site - not presently in stock - but avail for pre order !  @ £88.  According to a Rails newsletter there may ? be a price rise from Bachmann imminent ! so they are advising to pre-order now - but that could just be a marketing/sales ploy perhaps !

Edited January 24, 2014 by tractor_37260

[tractor_37260]

I am very happy to say that after a test run this morning, she seems to be running silky smooth. At last.

Lee - Nice to hear your happy at last with your 40 with "added pick-ups", another convert (finally) !

 

The 40 has a pick-up problem, there's an easy fix should one choose to use it , or just return it - it's time to move on now - nuff said 

 

Cheers

Ken 

Edited January 24, 2014 by tractor_37260

[Stanley Melrose]

I'm sure there will be a PenBits <http://www.penbits.co.uk/index.html> kit to spring the Class 40 before too long and this will cure all ills as well as making this loco function on P4 track . . .

 

Stan

Whoops!  There is already a chassis kit (for P4) - see <http://rumneymodels.co.uk/index.html>

 

Sorry, Justin . . .

 

Stan

[Clive Mortimore]

Some nice "Modelling" !  especially a different identity on each side, I like that - food for thought. 

Hi Tractor

 

That is OK until you get a mate who isn't aware of what you have done. I was helping with operating Dagworth (layout not the geezer), the signalman and control (the geezer Dagworth) told me I had the Norwich and the road was clear. I pressed the buttons on the controller putting in the number of the loco. It didn't move, Dagworth (the geeezer) asked what was the delay? I told him it wouldn't move. He asked had I put the right number in? I told him I had put the loco number in as on the side of the 47 in front of the train. No I had put the wrong number in as the correct number to get it going was what the loco displayed on the other side.

Edited January 24, 2014 by Clive Mortimore

[tractor_37260]

Hi Tractor

 

That is OK until you get a mate who isn't aware of what you have done. I was helping with operating Dagworth (layout not the geezer), the signalman and control (the geezer Dagworth) told me I had the Norwich and the road was clear. I pressed the buttons on the controller putting in the number of the loco. It didn't move, Dagworth (the geeezer) asked what was the delay? I told him it wouldn't move. He asked had I put the right number in? I told him I had put the loco number in as on the side of the 47 in front of the train. No I had put the wrong number in as the correct number to get it going was what the loco displayed on the other side.

Hi Clive

           Now that is a very good point, I had not even considered that for my own use, (wondering WHY that loco is not responding) let alone for anyone else helping out etc  ! - nice one 

Ken

[Fairburn]

Hi Tractor

 

That is OK until you get a mate who isn't aware of what you have done. I was helping with operating Dagworth (layout not the geezer), the signalman and control (the geezer Dagworth) told me I had the Norwich and the road was clear. I pressed the buttons on the controller putting in the number of the loco. It didn't move, Dagworth (the geeezer) asked what was the delay? I told him it wouldn't move. He asked had I put the right number in? I told him I had put the loco number in as on the side of the 47 in front of the train. No I had put the wrong number in as the correct number to get it going was what the loco displayed on the other side.

This principle of a twin identity loco would play havoc with anyone operating a mini TOPS system!

[leopardml2341]

This principle of a twin identity loco would play havoc with anyone operating a mini TOPS system!

But......

 

It could feasibly be in two places at the same time.

[GRUNFOS]

^{Heres 133/140 slightly work stained, off to Maplins to hopefully get the bits for the pickups. Have rechecked the 1974 pic and can just  about  see what maybe an OHLE flash so I've fitted one, thanks gents.}

 

 

 

 

 

^{Hadn't  thought about double numbered locos, all of mine are, started when the Polmadie diorama was first built to vary the photos. As it was never powered it never caused a problem!}

Edited January 25, 2014 by GRUNFOS

[EEType4]

For those who are willing to tackle the running problems with some examples of 40 141 I hope this update may help.

 

Given the unlikely chances of receiving a replacement loco I have had a bash at carrying out the mods recommended by Bachmann and previous posters.

 

To recap I started out with an example that would illuminate all the lights but would not go without a substantial push. At that point I must admit I was convinced the motor was defective.

 

However removed the bogies, pulled out the wheelsets and cleaned the bearing/axles. There is indeed a fine build up of dark grease on the faces.

 

On reassembly nipped up the bogie retaining screws then backed them off a quarter turn.

 

Result: 100% reliable starting, albeit a little sudden together with the lights going of on points now and then.

 

Encouraged by this I took the loco back to pieces again and added extra pickups from 0.45mm handrail wire. As shown in previous posts there is no requirement for wiring, just a better link from the wheelsets to the pickup strip on the bogie, plus of course going from 4 axle current collection to 6.

 

In addition the retaining clip on the top of the gear tower has a very convenient hole in it. The drive worm below it looked decidedly dry, so a little lube was administered.

 

Re-assembled and the transformation is remarkable.

 

Lastly a tweak of the decoder CV's, especially the start voltage setting and the 40 is nothing short of excellent. Running is smooth, quiet and very controlable. The loco will creep smoothly at a near stall with 7 mk.2's in tow without a hint of stalling.

 

Without going into the rights or wrongs of whether we should need to carry out such mods on a new loco, I hope this will be of help to some of you willing to have a go.

 

Ken

[tractor_37260]

^{Heres 133/140 slightly work stained, off to Maplins to hopefully get the bits for the pickups. Have rechecked the 1974 pic and can just  about  see hat maybe an OHLE flash so I've fitted one, thanks gents.}

 

^i.jpg

 

^c.jpg

 

^g.jpg

 

^h.jpg

 

^{Hadn't  thought about double numbered locos, all of mine are, started when the Polmadie diorama was first built to vary the photos. As it was never powered it never caused a problem!}

If no luck at Maplins - try here  :http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171172574550?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Nice reworks !

[tractor_37260]

For those who are willing to tackle the running problems with some examples of 40 141 I hope this update may help.

 

Given the unlikely chances of receiving a replacement loco I have had a bash at carrying out the mods recommended by Bachmann and previous posters.

 

To recap I started out with an example that would illuminate all the lights but would not go without a substantial push. At that point I must admit I was convinced the motor was defective.

 

However removed the bogies, pulled out the wheelsets and cleaned the bearing/axles. There is indeed a fine build up of dark grease on the faces.

 

On reassembly nipped up the bogie retaining screws then backed them off a quarter turn.

 

Result: 100% reliable starting, albeit a little sudden together with the lights going of on points now and then.

 

Encouraged by this I took the loco back to pieces again and added extra pickups from 0.45mm handrail wire. As shown in previous posts there is no requirement for wiring, just a better link from the wheelsets to the pickup strip on the bogie, plus of course going from 4 axle current collection to 6.

 

In addition the retaining clip on the top of the gear tower has a very convenient hole in it. The drive worm below it looked decidedly dry, so a little lube was administered.

 

Re-assembled and the transformation is remarkable.

 

Lastly a tweak of the decoder CV's, especially the start voltage setting and the 40 is nothing short of excellent. Running is smooth, quiet and very controlable. The loco will creep smoothly at a near stall with 7 mk.2's in tow without a hint of stalling.

 

Without going into the rights or wrongs of whether we should need to carry out such mods on a new loco, I hope this will be of help to some of you willing to have a go.

 

Ken

 

 

Hi Ken

It's most interesting to hear the (first ?) results of the Bachmann "clean-out" fix, it's more or less what I expected. 

 

Well described etc , you have also found, the model once sorted,  runs perfectly.

 

Without going into the rights or wrongs of whether we should need to carry out such mods on a new loco, I hope this will be of help to some of you willing to have a go.

Exactly - I totally agree.

 

Regards

Ken

Edited January 25, 2014 by tractor_37260

[D1030western musketeer]

After reading these problems I thought I would stay clear of this much awaited 40.

Also not exactly common at old oak in which my layout is based I took the plunge and got one having seen it run pretty good on dcc and took it apart to fit the dc blanking plate in.So far I have no pick up faults but I do have a problem with the pivot bogies derailing the loco on some of my points but other than that and a renumber into 332 pre tops no other running faults.

 

Richard.

[Phil Bullock]

Check the back to backs on those wheels Richard - has been a problem for us on previous 1Co-Co1 models

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[royaloak]

I dont like the way the multiple working cables stick out the sides of the bogies, they are seriously over scale and look like a bodybuilders shoulders.

[tinsley-toton]

 But I do have a problem with the pivot bogies derailing the loco on some of my points but other than that and a renumber into 332 pre tops no other running faults.

 

Richard.

Try undoing the tower to chassis screw by a 1/4 of a turn, that worked for me.

 

T-T

[the-gog]

I dont like the way the multiple working cables stick out the sides of the bogies, they are seriously over scale and look like a bodybuilders shoulders.

Scope for someone to make a whitemetal scale replacement. It's just a push fit into the bogie sideframe.

[RANGERS]

Picked one up yesterday on impulse, after convincing myself that I didn't need one, I had a close look at one in one of my chosen retailers and parted with a very reasonable sum for it. Now had a close look at it and bar for the the over scale MU jumper fittings on the bogies, it's a super model.

 

Not been run to any great extent but a quick test run hasn't thrown up any problems, so far, so good.

[GRUNFOS]

Had some spare time today so I thought I'd tweak my second. How long are we going to wait for a blue disc version? May get a center box version next give it a full yellow nose and renumber to 40 180 which was still green in '76.

 

 

 

 

[D1030western musketeer]

As anyone any information on the exact blue paint used as I have used railmatch blue and is not an exact match to cover up the area where I have took the number off.

I do not want to complete a full re-spray.

 

Richard.

[royaloak]

How did you take the numbers off?

I carefully use a coctail stick with a tiny bit of metal polish so it doesnt effect the paint underneath.

[D1030western musketeer]

I used a cotton wool bud and the numbers do remove very easily but as going from 40141 to 332 it left some marks that need re painting as a smaller number.

 

Richard.

[GRUNFOS]

I used a cotton wool bud and the numbers do remove very easily but as going from 40141 to 332 it left some marks that need re painting as a smaller number.

 

Richard.

All I do is spray with warmed up purity seal from games workshop, this covers up any areas removed such as the arrows on the B cab. The numbers come off on this model without the need for any chemicals, just rub with a match. More pics on Wiganish.

[tractor_37260]

Anyone attempted to move the central lamp iron down to the lower central position as on some members of the class ? 

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/72996689@N02/11100461303/in/photolist-hUULpR-bp9SiV-bpeFnZ-dFYHzg-dTvAsE-cA7ved-eQfEQh-8iFxR7-83izZV-hJPZJY-cnf3iQ-cnf2Zu-jhspu7-8bf975-aBzkdR-dTvz9q-bzURcg-9LFiD4-bpeFnB-eDSLcQ-eDM7d2-afZnQ5-b3eZ2H-g3njHF-dPry38-ehLU1g-b8pBv4-ciaR7C-eSJbJk-bXjxZ8-eQLH6H-fgqZFX-ffkPvr-e1RhWq-dpR5Sh-dpQVrR-dTvzrs-dTpVYa-7BkXAa-dCHC8j-dGLsMz-9Mvu9s-9Mvu8f-82NDkh-7UFHcE-dobPny-hJPHsS-jcLYdP-agFKS8-bUHkpW-cazwkC

[GRUNFOS]

Had some spare time today so I thought I'd tweak my second. How long are we going to wait for a blue disc version? May get a center box version next give it a full yellow nose and renumber to 40 180 which was still green in '76.

 

g.jpg

 

a.jpg

Just noticed the difference in bogie/body gap in the photos, have tightend the screws on 40 126 and she sits much lower as per 40 140. Anyone else done or noticed this? Ooops just reserved a green center box!!!!!

Edited January 26, 2014 by GRUNFOS