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Tucking Mill


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The loco looks good. I do wonder whether a self imposed ban on taking only just completed (or nearly completed locos) along to a show would be for the best.

 

Don

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9 hours ago, Donw said:

The loco looks good. I do wonder whether a self imposed ban on taking only just completed (or nearly completed locos) along to a show would be for the best.

 

Don


Where’s the fun in that!

 

Jerry

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11 hours ago, Donw said:

The loco looks good. I do wonder whether a self imposed ban on taking only just completed (or nearly completed locos) along to a show would be for the best.

 

Don

 

It's Jerry's partially finished loco fleet that gives the rest of us some confidence we can achieve that too!

 

Simon

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19 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

It's Jerry's partially finished loco fleet that gives the rest of us some confidence we can achieve that too!

 

Simon

When does "partially started" become "partially finished" I wonder...

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44 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

When does "partially started" become "partially finished" I wonder...

Sounds like my school homework being "not quite finished".  Actually its "not quite started"....

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Hi Jerry, I enjoyed your write up in MRJ about the o class.  It's provides a straightforward approach to tackle the worsley works c2x I have in my gloat box.  If I could ask, how do you find the low speed running with the 30:1 gearbox?

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2 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

When does "partially started" become "partially finished" I wonder...

If I were to compare to my working methods, “partially started” means all necessary bits have been assembled into a neat pile and time is being taken to admire the artistry of the etch designer and the craft of the etcher.  This can last an indeterminant period!  “Partially finished” means at least two components have been joined together.  As additional pieces are added, over, usually, a very extended time period, the work slowly transitions from “partially finished” to “not quite finished”.  The Utopian state of “finished” is always at some unattainable point in the far future!

 

john 

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35 minutes ago, SandHutton said:

Hi Jerry, I enjoyed your write up in MRJ about the o class.  It's provides a straightforward approach to tackle the worsley works c2x I have in my gloat box.  If I could ask, how do you find the low speed running with the 30:1 gearbox?


Slow running is fine. It obviously has a much higher top speed than double reduction with much lower gear ratios and needs a more gentle touch on the controller but modern motors and a good quality chip mean that slow speed running is perfectly adequate with 30:1 gearing.

 

Jerry

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2 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

When does "partially started" become "partially finished" I wonder...


As soon as it’s capable of running and has couplings - which almost always results in a very protracted period waiting for all those final little details!

 

Jerry

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I am not sure that anything can be partially started. It is either started or it isn't.

 

I have recently altered one of the association gearboxes to take a 38:1 gear set by opening up the holes for the worm wheel upwards slightly and filing the hole for the gearwheel to give the larger wheel clearance.

 

The 30:1 worked just fine in the Dean Goods but the SR U class has larger driving wheels and Yeovil is DC, so I thought the bigger reduction might be worth going for.

 

We will never know if 30:1 would have been enough!

 

I know a 38:1 box is on it's way but I didn't know how long I would have to wait and the modification was quite easy and quick.

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7 hours ago, Sithlord75 said:

When does "partially started" become "partially finished" I wonder...

 

That thought takes me back to the 1987 Crewe Works Open Day; how big did the piece of metal chalked up as 8720X have to be for me to later cross it off in my Platform 5 spotters book as a Class 90 I'd seen?!

 

Simon

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8 hours ago, Doncaster Green said:

If I were to compare to my working methods, “partially started” means all necessary bits have been assembled into a neat pile and time is being taken to admire the artistry of the etch designer and the craft of the etcher.  This can last an indeterminant period!  

Alan Titchmarsh quoted his father as saying that every job needed a good coat of looking at before starting it!

 

Jim

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2 hours ago, Caley Jim said:

Alan Titchmarsh quoted his father as saying that every job needed a good coat of looking at before starting it!

 

Jim

But I don’t think he meant the coat to be quite as thick or the drying time to be quite as long !

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10 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

Looks like a nice show again.  Enjoyed the glimpse I had of last years episode helping to set up Ashburton on the Friday.


A nice show again, with a particularly strong narrow gauge selection. My particular favourite was the Ashover layout, the track work is a really clever and effective use of Peco code 55 N with every other sleeper removed.

 

Can’t believe it’s a year ago you were here!

Jerry

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7 hours ago, nick_bastable said:

If it's a miracle, Colour Sergeant, it's a short chamber Boxer Henry point 45 caliber miracle.

Colour Sergeant Bourne: And a bayonet, sir, with some guts behind

 

Nick B


The S4 natives are very friendly really, one or two have already confessed to being closet members of the Association! 😏

 

Jerry

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Hi Jerry

 

I’ve been looking back through this topic to see how you made the drive shaft for ‘Nancy’ to seek ideas for my J39 conversion.  Although I haven’t got a lathe, with a little bit of careful work I think I can fabricate something similar. Your pictures have certainly helped.  However, while following it through I noticed something that has prompted what may be a silly question.  When you spray wheels, as you were doing while spraying ‘Nancy’, do you mask off the rims and flanges or do you spray as is and run them in a mini drill or lathe with some wet or dry to clean off the rims?  In the past I have used Maskol but it can be a pain to remove and they still need a spin with IPA to get rid of residue.  
 

John

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9 hours ago, Doncaster Green said:

Hi Jerry

 

I’ve been looking back through this topic to see how you made the drive shaft for ‘Nancy’ to seek ideas for my J39 conversion.  Although I haven’t got a lathe, with a little bit of careful work I think I can fabricate something similar. Your pictures have certainly helped.  However, while following it through I noticed something that has prompted what may be a silly question.  When you spray wheels, as you were doing while spraying ‘Nancy’, do you mask off the rims and flanges or do you spray as is and run them in a mini drill or lathe with some wet or dry to clean off the rims?  In the past I have used Maskol but it can be a pain to remove and they still need a spin with IPA to get rid of residue.  
 

John


Hi John, I do run a bit of Maskol or similar around wheel rims before spraying them.

 

As for UJs, you’re always welcome to use the little lathe here. I have to make a couple of UJs in the not too distant future so we can arrange something.

 

Jerry

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