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Kirkby Luneside (Original): End of the line....


Physicsman
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Nothing wrong with your Peco points, Larry. Reminds me, I've got a few code 75 Peco points going spare now...

 

I did threaten to post a thrillingly exciting photo of the risers under the fiddle yard. So here it is. For goodness sake - it's BORING - so nobody, surely wants to see it or, more to the point "likes" it!!

 

post-13778-0-60571600-1353871180_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

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Ok Jeff you are going to have to run this past me again.... Why do you have effectively two frames? The very solid base I can understand, but why not put your boards on top of this, why the hassle of the risers??

 

BTW the undersides of some layouts are far more interesting than the top!

 

Andy G (being denser than normal)

Edited by uax6
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You rotten lot! I wasn't baiting you with that picture - I expected total condemnation for the triviality of it. Not 3 likes. How embarrassing if it gets a popular!

 

That's the last of the "heavy stuff" Michael. I'll have to make do with 44mm x 44mm from now on. Good job most of the woodwork's done - how would I cope with such flimsy material!

 

Didn't actually get much wiring done today. Nevermind, an early start tomorrow will put that right.

 

It's definitely the posters that make the thread - I just supply the skeleton on which you can thrive! Thanks very much.

 

Jeff

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Ok Jeff your going to have to run this past me again.... Why do you have effectively two frames? The very solid base I can understand, but why not put your boards on top of this, why the hassle of the risers??

 

BTW the undersides of some layouts are far more interesting than the top!

 

Andy G (being denser than normal)

 

I could have done what you suggested, Andy, but that's precisely what I did in the last layout and it caused problems. The main one is that there are so many turnouts on the layout that the places where they fit into the boards invariably coincide with the subframe. By putting the boards on risers you can make sure no points or equivalent are ever near a cross-beam.

 

You also gain extra working space under the board, but more importantly, the extra height of the boards on the risers allows a massive amount of "open frame" possibilities - so I could drop the viaduct "valley" way below the boards (it's at the level of the subframe) and raise the hillside way above it (the top will be 6 feet above the ground).

 

The main reason, though, is the first one - to keep points away from cross-beams. I've gone to extremes with the wood I've used. What I've done certainly isn't necessary, but it works for me and I like woodwork - fortunately!

 

Sorry if my explanation is confusing - or sounds like utter bol***ks!!

 

Jeff

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I see. Would you still do it that way if you were upstairs in your house? I could never bring myself to do it, I hate woodwork, I'd rather do it in steel and weld it together!

It does seem a good idea mind, nothing worse than a tie-bar over a support. I suppose that it's also useful for storing all your spare stock when your fiddle yard is full!

 

Andy G

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I see. Would you still do it that way if you were upstairs in your house? I could never bring myself to do it, I hate woodwork, I'd rather do it in steel and weld it together!

It does seem a good idea mind, nothing worse than a tie-bar over a support. I suppose that it's also useful for storing all your spare stock when your fiddle yard is full!

 

Andy G

 

I don't think I'd dare put that structure upstairs. I'd probable collapse the whole house!! Having said that, here's a similar thing I built into the last layout...

 

post-13778-0-26230100-1353876801_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-35771200-1353876807_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-72265100-1353876812_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-16381900-1353876818_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-53404300-1353876935_thumb.jpg

 

post-13778-0-41887700-1353876953_thumb.jpg

 

Jeff

 

EDIT: Forgot to mention - this is upstairs in a spare bedroom. the last photo was 4 years ago.

Edited by Physicsman
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I get the feeling that one day (hopefully before you pop your clogs!) I'll have to get you to do some scenery for my (non-existant) layout. It certainly looks good (much better than I can do!).

 

I bet there was still a fair amount of weight in that little lot...

 

Maybe you should turn your house upside down and have the layout down stairs and the living space upstairs!

 

Andy G

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Where did that line that disappears into the tunnel mouth go to? I can't seem to see it in the construction piccys! Did it go through the wall?

 

Andy g

 

There are TONS of design faults in this layout, which I started in 2002. One of which is the gradients. The tunnel descends down the back of the hillside at about 1 in 25. FAR too steep for any kind of steamer hauling wagons.

 

The layout had a non-existent fiddle yard, not enough operational interest, mostly setrack - ridiculous pointwork - etc etc. But it was a learning experience.

 

Jeff

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Hi Jeff, got home from Warley about 3.30, never left a major show so earley :scratchhead: , very disapointed overall, only got the Static Grass and 3 x 5 DIN conectors, a pair of very achey legs, and one BIG back ache. Out of 92 layouts there were only about 10 that I can say I enjoyed which is a great shame. And with £10 for the car park, £12 to get in (no old foggies discount) and £4 for a program. Best layout at the show was probably Bath Green Park, bu we could not get near enough to get some decent pics, then it was 82G with a new extension and in third place it was Bodmin. My forth place goes to R M Web member David Taylor (DLT) layout Charmouth, a Lymme Regis narrow gaugebranch layout that was beautifull. The other operators on Charmouth were two other R M members, Ray Norwood, and Richard State, (Mudmagnet) so George T and I had a good natter with them.

 

Glad to see progress is still going very well, and I agree with Andy G that the underboard pics can tell a story on there own. I also like the under board shots, not because it is interesting, but because it shows me how I need to do my next baseboard frames.

 

Keep up the good work mate,

all the best Andy.

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Thanks for the Warley update, Andy. Doesn't sound so great!

 

Btw, for goodness sake, don't model your frames on the way I do them. I'm sure that there are far more cost-effective ways than what I've done! I just have a love affair with cutting and fitting wood together. A wonderful material to work with. You can tell my joiner dad had an influence on me (though he's a proper woodworker!).

 

Jeff

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We all have to start somewhere. The last layout I had was 15 years ago and was built around the walls of my bedroom at my parents place. There was a very steep (similar to yours) gradient that you could just get a loco and four up! Quite a good layout to operate, but next to no scenery and everything was quite close together.

 

The best layout I've ever operated was Frank Roome's Lutton. Stud contact O gauge in an 8' square bedroom, with a climb that must of risen 8" in 24"!!

 

Proper Lever frames, interlocked, Block instruments, timetables, train registers Brill (He was an MOT inspector and boys from REME used to train on it!)

 

I think the GOG have it, but I'm not sure what happened to the stock.....

 

Andy G

 

Edit: I got one of his signalbox ominbus telephones, and a wallet of drawings, but I haven't seen the drawings for years ;-{

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That's the second time today that I've seen the acronym GOG. Never come across it before - what is it?

 

And my layout philosophy is that it's no use doing clever and beautiful things on top if the base isn't good enough. Bit like building a house with no foundations on shifting sands. Having said that, I'm quite prepared to admit that I do go over the top!

 

Jeff

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Andy, you have cheered me up no end. I couldn't go to Warley this year and I am now not disappointed. It must be said that on the other occasions I have been, there always seems to be a lot of filler there although there are always a few layouts that stand out. Last year it wa New Hey and Wibdenshaw, a couple of years before it was Blea Moor. Personally, I am looking forward to the Watford Finescale show and the Leamington & Warwick show early next year, both of which were fantastic last year

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Andy, you have cheered me up no end. I couldn't go to Warley this year and I am now not disappointed. It must be said that on the other occasions I have been, there always seems to be a lot of filler there although there are always a few layouts that stand out. Last year it wa New Hey and Wibdenshaw, a couple of years before it was Blea Moor. Personally, I am looking forward to the Watford Finescale show and the Leamington & Warwick show early next year, both of which were fantastic last year

Thanks for that Jason I will try and make Leamington.

 

Andy.

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Thanks for the Warley update, Andy. Doesn't sound so great!

 

Btw, for goodness sake, don't model your frames on the way I do them. I'm sure that there are far more cost-effective ways than what I've done! I just have a love affair with cutting and fitting wood together. A wonderful material to work with. You can tell my joiner dad had an influence on me (though he's a proper woodworker!).

 

Jeff

Thats SPOOOOOOOOOOOOOKY my dad was a carpeter and joiner and also a cabinet maker, he built the roof trusses on the houses on the hiil above Polzeath in Cornwall and that was before I was born and they are still there so have stood up against the Atlantic gales for over half a centry now.

 

 

I can't cut ONE STREIGHT LINE, let alone two :no: I HATE WOOD eeeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkk :O

 

Andy.

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Thats SPOOOOOOOOOOOOOKY my dad was a carpeter and joiner and also a cabinet maker, he built the roof trusses on the houses on the hiil above Polzeath in Cornwall and that was before I was born and they are still there so have stood up against the Atlantic gales for over half a centry now.

 

 

I can't cut ONE STREIGHT LINE, let alone two :no: I HATE WOOD eeeeeeeeeeeeekkkkkkk :O

 

Andy.

 

I'm not so good with the old-fashioned type of saw, but give me a jig-saw or circular saw and I'm away. I enjoy thinking structures through in 3D, so it's been fun working out the different levels on KL from the hillside down to the river bed.

 

I'll shortly have to come up with a tunnel structure leading from the viaduct to the fiddle yard. I think I'm going to base my tunnel surround on the one at Blea Moor: it has a bit of character!

 

Jeff

 

Blea_Moor_Tunnel_-_geograph.org.uk_-_226351.jpg

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That certainly does - I'm guessing but back in the 60s / 70s it would have been desolate moorland, rather than conifer plantation? And those drainage channels round the portal - it's an eloquent comment on the weather expected round there... I wonder what they look like this evening... :O

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In the above vein, gentlemen readers of this thread, I have some ability in woodwork but am now driven to despair and ruin by my efforts in hand-craftng C & L code 75 16.5mm gauge track.

 

I have lost the use of my right arm and hand, at least in terms of fine touch, I can grip a handle but not move accurately, and my left hand was never very good. In spite of this I devised ways to manufacture quite good workbenches, and have always enjoyed other people's joinery. So left hand only, and from a wheelchair only... all this the result of a very serious crash in 1974 but moving quickly back to the case-in-point,

 

... I thought in my infinite optomism that hand-building track would be just a matter of thought, planning, templates, maybe jigs, glue and assembly, but it is not so, at least not without manufacturing jigs with female housings for correctly spaced sleepers... so offer this dilemma;

 

do I try to make a female template for 250mm lengths of track, so I can insert sleepers at 11.8mm centres 5.5 at each end, as per my photo...

 

if so, would plaster of paris do it? in a baking tray or similar?

 

Or do I give up and purchase pre-assembled track of some description, if so, what kind of code 75 bullhead, who makes it and how do I get it posted undamaged to NZ.

 

I have been trying to build this track now on and off for about two months but the hand-building with in my case PVA, after general-purpose glue was hopeless on sleepers which weighed about 1gm each... I have no suitable clamps, jigs, pliers tools of any kind, and cannot solder at all partly because left hand alone is tricky, and partly because of the usual dangers of hot things on paralysed skin.

 

The other option is to give up, it is so so difficult to continually have maybe six sleepers in perfect position, track in position, gauge perfect, and all perfect, when the surface tension in drop of glue, even after dilution and a drop of detergent, is sufficient to derange the geometry of the assembly, and when you try by careful finger-touch to adjust it, maybe 0.5mm, everything does askew.... sometime horribly.

 

Essentially, I want to buy pre-assembled track. Unless I am missing something (probably am).

 

Picture shows my acheivement so far. If I could find a way to hold 21 sleepers correctly spaced and secure, then I could lower the chairs suitably spaced and with touches of glue , down onto the sleepers, wait for glue to set, and lift out, hey presto, hand-made track ready for painting.

 

All ideas welcome.

 

Rob

 

post-7929-0-73215100-1353883871.jpg

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