Guest 2750 Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Just something I have noticed. That appears to be a Super detail body A4, but on a railroad chassis, hence the bulky valve gear and connecting rods. I would certainly replace those with the super detail variety. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Yep it's a super detail body and tender. The glazing from the cab and lamp irons were missing and body tatty in places. The railroad chassis is a replacement as the original had been "attacked" by solder and glue Someone had hard wired a decoder in with what resembled anthracite and disguarded the 8 pin connector also the quartering was off. I have just cleaned it up and give her a gloss coat so she looks more real and I like her as she is. But I was thinking for my first attempt maybe I shoul Gibson this one before my mallard as that is mint. We will see but I just wanted to show her new paint and give people something to look at after all my questions and pestering the fellow RM'ers Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Then again the steel bare rimmed wheels are more an LNER feature though I am sure BR ones didn't always have them painted black to the edge but they certainly were not as well cared for in BR days it seems from photos I've seen. I have ordered some C&L track to experiment with. I have gone for steel as it will be used to demonstrate a new scenic product I am soon to expose and review. But I was wondering if the track is so fine that standard oo will be incompatible. Or if Gibson wheels or other brands are so fine as they might fall through the betwean standard 00 track. That's what someone told me! More rambling a from me cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 *facepalm* Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Sorry I don't expect anything like that to happen. I just love the amount if myths this hobby can generate. Pink electricity anyone ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Good evening folks. The bag from mainly trains arrived today ! I am very impressed at the service since they only got back off holiday on the 29th. A very happy first time customer I am too I will be ordering from them again not only due to the excellent service and products but I need some more parts I realise I need. I thought the wheels would come with crank pins but they do not so I will order these. But I would like to know if I need spacing washers to take up some of the side play when using their wheels with the 00 axle ? If so what do I need to buy for the pony and tender wheels on the smaller axle, I got the washers for the drive wheels and I also need to know which bushes I buy to reduce the conection rods on the Hornby A4. Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 As far as spacing washers go, you'll only really know if you do a test axle mount. The convention as to where you fit them are slightly different for P4 compared to OO. For example, we'd normally want little or no sideplay on the leading axle in P4, as clearances behind slidebars are usually very tight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Thanks for that Horsetan. I just bought a load more bits and pieces off Mainly trains that I might need. Some if not used I am sure will "come in" for other projects I have planned like changing the chassis on my Bachmann Manor etc.. I was studying my wheels and thinking about fitting the motion. I was looking at the hole drilled for the gibson crankpins. There is quite alot of plastic around it and I was wondering about the possibility of re-using the Hornby crankpin fittings. I know from previous repairs that they are a seperate fitting they have two brass "ears" on that will need filing off but if I widen the hole out carefully I thought I might be able to fit them to enable fitting the motion. Do you know if this has ever been done. Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 .... I was looking at the hole drilled for the gibson crankpins. There is quite alot of plastic around it and I was wondering about the possibility of re-using the Hornby crankpin fittings..... First you must know what size the Hornby screw thread is, and whether it's BA or metric. Either way you'll need to drill and use a tap to open up the hole. Can you get it right six times? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Hi here is a picture of the Hornby middle driver is mantled. What I proposed to do was use the Hornby brass pin removed from the centre driver and widen the hole on the Gibson wheel. It looks possible there is enough plastic there. The Gibson wheel is slightly thinner so I might not need to remove the brass ears from the Hornby pin. If it could work it would save me having to modify the eccentric arm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Looking at that, I don't think that Hornby return crank bush would last long on the Gibson wheel centre - certainly not for the centre driving axle. There would be insufficient plastic left to hold it. Remember that AGW's wheel moulds generally use one pattern for all of the wheels on an engine, and don't take account of the many instances where the driven axle (i.e. the one which had to bear coupling and connecting rod big-ends, and very often the return crank as well) was noticeably beefed-up to cope with the weight and stresses imposed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 yes indeed and looking at it the back area looks big enough but the front seems thinner were the mounting tapers front face view. Is the only way of fitting by using replacement cranks return arms. Also were can I buy them from it seems mainly trains don't stock them. Also I could not spot them in the alan gibson catalogue. cheers Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 The only maker of A4 return cranks that I know of is Comet. And to get a pair of those, you will need to buy an entire valve gear fret from them.......which I think was in your original plan anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 well if it will fit I will buy it. but if its the only way to get the crank. then I guess I will have to buy it. I just thought the must be more than one way to fit the crank. I am surprised how hard it is to find info on doing stuff like this,. I am now wondering if I can modify the Hornby cranks with bushes or some such to fit the gibson pins. hmm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Have you looked here http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/hornby_lner_a4_4-6-2_easichas.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 Hi there yes thanks I have received a response from them today regarding their kit and the motion. I though I had better ask first as the kit is for EM I just hope the motion will fit the gibson wheels for 00 gauge. I cant see why not. Lets hope so cause if it does work out the Hornby mallard will look Fabulous with shiney wheels motion red wheels and silver handrails with speed badge and glossy finish. I am loving my first experience so far of customising and buying bits for your trains. its damn good fun. next plan is to have ago at building a comet manor chassis and a markits J13 chassis. Its so addictive. As a life long modeller of plastic kits working in metal is a whole new experience I am all to keen to get deeply into. All I have done so far is assemble the tender wheels and fit them plus the rear cab wheel (cant spell that name with the zz's in ) damn nice they look too. There are some small flecks of rust I want to know how to remove and prevent them forming on gibson wheels, I guess a light oil. ? cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 It uses the Hornby valve gear , doesnt say what wheels are fitted. Gibsons are a nightmare for rusting. Light clean up with wet and dry paper then oil. Dont let flux get anywhere near them they will rust as you watch Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Hayes Posted September 3, 2013 Author Share Posted September 3, 2013 Well I will keep an eye on them,. Its my first time buying any wheels I went for gibson as a first try as I have read about them for years since a kid in the 80s I have heard about Alan Gibson wheels. I like the look of the steel, I really would like a set of ultrascales but they will be for another times as its a 6 month wait at the moment. I am happy to try other wheels but I wish the people selling them would show a photo of the wheels as the looks are important when choosing for your loco particularly in my case as I want nice thick tyres. Are romford/markits any good. The trouble I have is picking from the measurements Ultrascale and Gibson give theirs in the 1/1 scale ft and inches which makes it a doddle to research the real loco and order. but other makes give it in mm which throws me as I am not sure of the conversion. Cheers Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 4mm = 1 foot e.g A4 + 26mm. Markits have metal shoulder /rim unpainted centre and are easy to quarter !! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 ....Gibsons are a nightmare for rusting..... Not always. The ones under my ex-DJH Std.5 are still thinking about rusting, about 20 years after I fitted them......! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Ur a lucky boy then Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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