P.C.M Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 I have been asked how I do my bufferbeam pipework and still have Kadee couplers. The pics will hopefully explain things but I use a small piece of bungee cord and superglue it to the air or vac pipe, then glue that into the pre drilled hole in the bufferbeam. Depending on how sharp your curves are you may be able to get away with just doing the inner pipes and gluing the outer ones the normal way. Hope the pics help. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted February 20, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 20, 2014 Thanks Peter The end result does look good on your rolling stock. Just grasping this fiddly little pipes with a pair of tweezers is sometimes more than I can manage. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Thanks Peter The end result does look good on your rolling stock. Just grasping this fiddly little pipes with a pair of tweezers is sometimes more than I can manage. Thanks Rick, it can be a bit of a pain. More than one has hit the floor. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intercity 125 Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Thanks P.C.M, I get it now, I will try that one day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Despite having a class 33/1 two class 20s and a 150 Sprinter on the workbench the class 40 has jumped the queue along with what I thought would be a fairly quick re chassis project. So far on the class 40 I have added extra pick ups, replaced the buffers with Hornby ones. I have replaced the multiple working pipes on the front and on the bogie sides with white metal ones from a Craftsman class 40 detail kit. The Bachmann pipes on the side are not that over big really so with a bit of sanding down and reducing the thickness of the raised section on the bogie that they sit on improves things quite a bit. I have also made up the pipework that sits on the bogie sides from 1mm brass rod. On the body I have removed the numbers and double arrows at one end, 97406 also had its horn grilles missing from one end so these have been drilled out. I have also been working on an old favourite of mine. 25244 was done about 16 years ago and a few years back I did some extra detail on the model and fitted a new 5 pole motor. I have been happy with it's running but it's never been as good as my Bachmann 25s. Over the Christmas holidays I thought about fitting a Bachmann chassis. My original plan years ago was to fit a Hornby body to the Bachmann chassis but this would mean finding a way to attach the body, my new idea was to just use the metal part of the chassis with motor and bogies and bodge the Hornby chassis underneath. It was more work than I thought but I am quite happy with how its come out. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimleygrid Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hi Peter, looking forward to seeing 97406 and 25244 arriving at Llanbourne. Any progress on your choppers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hi Peter, looking forward to seeing 97406 and 25244 arriving at Llanbourne. Any progress on your choppers? Thanks Alex, You would have seen 25244 on the layout thread before, though now it might see more use as it runs really well. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 Despite having a class 33/1 two class 20s and a 150 Sprinter on the workbench the class 40 has jumped the queue along with what I thought would be a fairly quick re chassis project. So far on the class 40 I have added extra pick ups, replaced the buffers with Hornby ones. I have replaced the multiple working pipes on the front and on the bogie sides with white metal ones from a Craftsman class 40 detail kit. The Bachmann pipes on the side are not that over big really so with a bit of sanding down and reducing the thickness of the raised section on the bogie that they sit on improves things quite a bit. I have also made up the pipework that sits on the bogie sides from 1mm brass rod. On the body I have removed the numbers and double arrows at one end, 97406 also had its horn grilles missing from one end so these have been drilled out. I have also been working on an old favourite of mine. 25244 was done about 16 years ago and a few years back I did some extra detail on the model and fitted a new 5 pole motor. I have been happy with it's running but it's never been as good as my Bachmann 25s. Over the Christmas holidays I thought about fitting a Bachmann chassis. My original plan years ago was to fit a Hornby body to the Bachmann chassis but this would mean finding a way to attach the body, my new idea was to just use the metal part of the chassis with motor and bogies and bodge the Hornby chassis underneath. It was more work than I thought but I am quite happy with how its come out. Cheers Peter. Hi Peter Quality work as usual Peter - Re fitting a Hornby/Lima 40 body on a Bach chassis, it fits that snugly, there's no need for any form of fixing etc. at least with the original Bach 40 chassis, not tried it yet with the latest one. Regards Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hi Ken, My post may have confused you. My Bachmann class 40 is just a detail job. The chassis is going under a Hornby class 25. Though its funny you mention putting the old Bachmann chassis under a Lima body as I am planning on doing just that, and have an old Bachmann class 40 on its way over. Cheers Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 I have been doing a class 25 with Hornby body on Bachmann chassis. I found that I had to cut off the buffer beams and stick them into the body ends. The cuts themselves removed just enough material to make the chassis a snug fit. However, as Peter has said, the problem arises of how to fasten the body and chassis together. As it stands right now, if I pick up the model by the body, the heavy chassis will drop out under its own weight. I have one of the older Bacchy class 40 models and I keep looking at it and wondering what I should do with it. It's not all that bad but it still doesn't actually look right either. Then again, I have several class 24 and 25 models and they don't look right at the fronts either (hence the Hornby body on the one I mentioned before!). I still like them because they run so beautifully and still look like a Derby type 2. None of these models (24/25/40) could be mistaken for anything else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks Jeff, I have an older class 40 now so will see how I go with putting a Lima body on the chassis. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meanach Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Inspirational stuff. Your work and layout really throw me back to my days bashing the marches and north west in the late 80s , early 90s . How did you do the drop light cab window on the blue tractor btw ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Hi Ken, My post may have confused you. My Bachmann class 40 is just a detail job. The chassis is going under a Hornby class 25. Though its funny you mention putting the old Bachmann chassis under a Lima body as I am planning on doing just that, and have an old Bachmann class 40 on its way over. Cheers Peter Hi Peter Yes your right, should have read your post properly ! Anyway re a Lima 40 body, it fits a Bach chassis that well, getting it back off again can pose a problem, although very slight trimming of the chassis ends would ease that, IF felt necessary. Your Bungee cord tip will prove most useful. Regards Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Inspirational stuff. Your work and layout really throw me back to my days bashing the marches and north west in the late 80s , early 90s . How did you do the drop light cab window on the blue tractor btw ? Thanks meanach, The cab cab window on the class 37 is the Bachmann glazing, I just scribe a straight line where I want to cut it the carefully cut away the small section with a knife and file. I then glue a thin stripe of plasticard to the top and paint blue. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Hi Peter Yes your right, should have read your post properly ! Anyway re a Lima 40 body, it fits a Bach chassis that well, getting it back off again can pose a problem, although very slight trimming of the chassis ends would ease that, IF felt necessary. Your Bungee cord tip will prove most useful. Regards Ken No worries Ken, My older Bachmann class 40 has arrived and I have tried the Lima body on the chassis, as you say its a pretty good fit. I will let you know how I go. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 24, 2014 Author Share Posted March 24, 2014 Bit of an update, I have been slowly working on my Bachmann class 40 and since I last posted an older Bachmann one has arrived and I will use the chassis to go under my Lima D200. The Bachmann body has had the number removed and the rad fan side grilles refitted so they look a bit more flush with the body. 25244 is now finished and running on part of a Bachmann chassis. The workbench is pretty full at the moment as I have a class 128 in bits and another class 25. Cheers Peter. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 Nice work Peter. That 25 looks really good. Looking forward to seeing 97406. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Nice work Peter. That 25 looks really good. Looking forward to seeing 97406. Thanks Lee, Slow progress at the moment, I don't seem to be getting much done, I have to many things on the go at one time. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 I know that feeling.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 I know that feeling.... I bet you do but then you would want to be fairly busy as it's your job. lol Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 I have finished working on the underframe of 97406, it's come up quite well. just needs weathering now. Cheers Peter. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I have finished working on the underframe of 97406, it's come up quite well. just needs weathering now. Cheers Peter. Looking really good Peter - captured the details really well, especially the end plates etc, you certainly made good use of the photos ! Regards Ken Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.C.M Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Thanks Ken, The pics you sent me were very helpful, I did some searching through Flickr to find other pics of 40135/ 97406, which helped as well. Cheers Peter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Nice work Peter, I have added the steps, but never realised the rest of the gubbins that was under there! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now