RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted June 20, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 20, 2012 Having just read Gordon's explanation of Captain Kernow's method, I think I'll be attempting this on my latest layout (once I get the track down (once I get the baseboard built (once I've had the wood cut by the woodyard (once I've agreed the quote (once I've been given a quote...))))). I actually like ballasting, it's a challenge to get it looking neat and satisfying when it is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodshaw Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 You won't like my ballasting then. I didn't love the labour enough, but I'm happy with it as a first attempt Ah well, I suppose you're bound to improve with practice. I've only ballasted two layouts, and both of them were small verging on tiny. I suppose I may come to love it third time round! There are certainly a few tips in this thread I could do with trying. One thing I did do, as I'd read about it somewhere, was to spray a bit of WD40 onto the moving parts of the points just to make sure they didn't seize up. They certainly didn't, but now they look very black around those areas and stand out somewhat. So more weathering is called for. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Good point, Cav, but for the era and location I model they didn't have any ducting or big machines throwing vast quantities of ballast in all directions. My ballast doesn't extend anywhere near walls or fences (other than platform edges which are installed before ballasting). The edge of the ballast is separated from everything else by a smooth, well-maintained, cess. I can assure you that I don't stick anything on top of ballast; if anything needs to go there, the ballast is dug out first. In fact there's very little that might go on top of the ballast other than point rodding and signal wires and I don't think anyone would recommend fitting those before ballasting. Nick I'm sure all is well with your cess's. I was of course as you pointed our referring to modern practices with ducting etc. It's much easier to pop all that kind of stuff in prior to ballasting work. Even cess's(or kinda none ballasted, squashed into the ground, dirt areas) between the ballast and walls/lineside boundaries I like to put in before ballast but after walls etc as it is a simple matter of order from lowest up. Stuff that sticks into the ground ie walls signals ducting etc(mostly including track sleepers too), groundy stuff ie cess dirt, gravel, soil etc, ballast, stuff growing on top ie grass weeds etc. Just the way I do it no disrespect intended to anyone elses methods. Its the end result that counts. Thought I add my track pic again from Outon Road below just for fun. Cav Edited June 20, 2012 by RBE 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
FishingBear Posted April 18, 2020 Share Posted April 18, 2020 On 19/06/2012 at 09:34, Karhedron said: I will be using this method in future. Going back and restoring electrical connectivity after the event is a lot harder than doing it right in the first place. I am going to have to try this too! I’m in the same situation as you karhedron. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Solo Posted April 18, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 18, 2020 I've been doing a lot of experimenting with ballast recently before letting myself loose on the 'real' layout. I model in 'OO' and have found by far the most satisfactory result has been using C&L 2mm ballast thoroughly wetted down with a a spray of diluted surgical spirit (about 50/50 with water) and then using Deluxe Materials 'Ballast Bond' (the liquid version) dribbled on using a precision tip on the end of the bottle. This stuff is formulated specially for the purpose and is the perfect consistency, doesn't disturb the ballast at all as long as it properly wetted and also a little goes a long way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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