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Hayfields turnout workbench


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Hi John,

 

Something you have asked for in the past. Templot can now give you a full breakdown of timbering requirements for a track plan. This might be useful if you are ordering plastic timbers or individual laser-cut timbers:

 

total_timbering1-png.1162

 

total_timbering3-png.1161

 

There are options to print, PDF, and copy the list if you right-click on it.

cheers,

Martin.

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Martin

 

I noticed these, I think for me the red fishplates are extremely useful and I always electrically bond the switch rails to the stock rails

 

What amazes me  is how Templot has changed over the years, the fact that many complicated turnouts/crossings/slips can be created with a few clicks of the mouse.

Too many folk still thing you must be a computer and or CAD expert to use Templot, or that it does not work on Mac's. On the other hand would you ever get anything done is the masses used it

 

I am just gobsmacked at the ease of making slips and 3 ways, and now we have symmetrical Y's.  Joking apart it seems many more modellers are taking trackwork more seriously and now we have Wayne's easy to build turnouts, things are moving on apace

 

ps

 

I have now sorted out the parapets, no excuse not to start that east end cameo layout

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3 hours ago, dpgibbons said:

Very handy. I've not seen droppers to the check rails before. Is that a S4/S7 thing?

 

Hi,

 

No, it applies to all gauges if the check rails are insulated from the stock rails, such as when using plastic chairs.

 

If the back of the wheel rubs against the check rail, as it will do quite often, the rolling action tends to lift the wheel fractionally off the stock rail, losing electrical pickup momentarily. Putting a dropper on the check rail ensures you get continuous pickup and much smoother running.

 

Obviously if you use copper-clad construction or similar, where the check rail is electrically connected to the stock rail, you don't need to do that.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

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  • 5 weeks later...

A person who I have dealings with bought some stock from a person who was selling their collection mainly due to ill health and was pleased it would be kept together. These two became friends and started communicating with each other. The person who sold their stock was very much interested in model railways but unable to model, however still has a very active mind

 

To cut a longer story short, they decided to design a layout based on Port Victoria off the Medway as it has an interesting history, a plan is being hatched and my friend decided to build it with a great deal of input from his friend. I was asked to knock up a couple of designs in Templot and the basis has been agreed. My friend has a couple of small spare boards and as I have plenty of spare bits lying around I offered them to the project.

 

462.jpeg.6c63f8b43c7c9567a3809c0a5e25623b.jpeg

 

I cut the copperclad timbers, then marked up and cut the isolation slats in the timbers, then filled up the gaps with diluted filler and set aside overnight to harden. I cut the isolation gaps before fitting the rails as its far easier to find the faults (if there are any) without the rails, it can save hours and makes a nice neat job

 

461.jpeg.eda30aaa885cdec179790b2f77cbb76b.jpeg

 

A few minutes this morning with a file and the filler was levelled. It looks like the gaps are still there, but when its painted they will be gone.

Many will say why bother the answer is twofold, firstly it looks better, secondly I can test the complex as I build it 

 

460.jpeg.43220be5c107ad6fe295e2bbc4bcc8a9.jpeg

 

I have plenty of old unused rail, I cleaned some up and spent the rest of the hour I put aside making the vees and fitting a few rails

Edited by hayfield
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465.jpeg.91fec4c0a9c3ea0713ecb9817208c8ec.jpeg

 

A project which takes up a few minutes a day, this is a super bit of kit from the EMGS stores, its an EM block gauge with a crossing alignment aid, made by DD Wheelwrights , they also sell a P4 gauge version. Its ever so useful for copperclad and ply and rivet construction, just frees up the odd finger. Block gauges are useful anyway which ever gauge you work in, I even have an 00 gauge one

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468.jpeg.7d2ca6c74811fe5f64d16db8b2d4f41c.jpeg469.jpeg.51e060d9630a13fca7fcde51e25ae2d8.jpeg

 

The crossover was finished this morning, tested then I covered the rail heads with masking tape strips as I wanted to see how good a job I did on hiding the isolation gaps

 

470.jpeg.49577b55dd359bfff343203192184959.jpeg471.jpeg.599263e422685abb435568b910a8e98a.jpeg

 

Well whilst not 100% hidden a coat of etched primer has hidden most traces of the isolation gaps which I filled and sanded prior to fitting the rails. Now off to my friend who is the artist. I would get the airbrush our a blast of sleeper grime first followed by a rustier shade of grime along the rail sides over spraying on to the timbers. My friend is goung to brush paing and do a much better job

 

Some may think this method has gone a bit over the top for a copperclad turnout, I think it has potentially saved time and looks far better

 

Certainly by making the isolation cuts first, then checking there are no shorts potentially saves time and a lot of needless extra butchery. Filling the gaps prior to fitting the rails, takes little time and certainly makes the sanding quick and simple, must have added only 30 mins to the build time

 

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With the first part of Port Victoria with my friend who is now hastily adapting the 2 baseboards which were set aside for the project, I can think of the next part

 

474.jpeg.2487bf2cbd30660fe23d03ba39c55446.jpeg

 

The plan is now on a building board and the copperclad timbers cut

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A bit more done on the latest group of turnouts

 

475.jpeg.21f9a85a05f4a23e1c5169cd3c3fbcaf.jpeg

 

The third turnout nearing completion, timber tiebars , wiring and final testing the next jobs on all 8 in the complex

 

Sunday may be a loco day just for a change

 

 

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The next part for project Port Victoria

 

479.jpeg.4a1ace9728ca3c3e6167d2f70ae7840e.jpeg

 

The electrical isolation gaps were worked out then cut with a junior hacksaw, boy how these glassfibre strips blunt the blade

 

480.jpeg.1f8f68ccad177c0dc63b448d1a6478a0.jpeg

 

A close up of the more complicated area, as I spend about an hour a day on this project all I could get done was the cutting of the isolation gaps, next up I will test each strip then fill the gaps

 

I got an email from my friend over the weekend as getting a primed crossover was a bit of a surprise, (a nice one I hope) the idea is to cheer up the final recipient.

 

Nearly out of SMP strip and still have two more turnouts to build, must order some more 

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Many may have seen this timber tiebar before, others may not. Its my way of hiding the copperclad tiebar

 

481.jpeg.719bef1aa2c35e0632e591fb6f561127.jpeg482.jpeg.053e003aa00afb660149f2245465356d.jpeg

 

The copperclad tiebar is actually one of the timbers, pre gapped with the slot filled, the brass slide chairs are cut in two

 

483.jpeg.2b73aeb860846804123721cdcdcf3f45.jpeg484.jpeg.34b09e75b87c5de7924f45b56175bf24.jpeg

 

The slide chair baseplates are soldered to the copperclad timber, put in place and the points of the switch rail are soldered to them

 

485.jpeg.5d3cfc4d8dc9f0fd089576af3f7c6a5d.jpeg486.jpeg.5ee8bb35ac61107cd2f2a2a178e23eee.jpeg

 

The outer parts of the slide chairs are soldered to the stock rails. The timber is able to move to alter the direction, the outer parts of the chairs stay on the rails. Simply just use whatever actuation method you prefer

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493.jpeg.7961acb6ff54c0ec9a98c3d492087130.jpeg

 

I gap filled the timbers this morning, will let set solid for 24 hours as I thin the filler with Humbrol Liquid Poly, it makes if nice and runny and sticks in the gaps

 

494.jpeg.0e7fa6b88cb83238f5f7d1a233305771.jpeg

 

A closer view showing how many isolation gaps are required (I bet I have missed one or two)

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Busy day with visitors so grabbed what time I could

 

495.jpeg.b4f289daebbfecaf247056cc61a1566e.jpeg

 

Decided to start building the common crossings, then started fitting the stock rails. Progress will now slow down as other commitments take precedence

 

 

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I bought a nice piece of kit off eBay for £25 plus postage, a flat bottom1-6 vee and switch rail jig for codes 75 to 100

 

497.jpeg.16e38410de673c45f9fb251dfd963bea.jpeg

 

 

 

498.jpeg.bce23dda6e0771d894d3202ca9155ce8.jpeg

 

there are 2 slots both sides, slide a rail in one way its the vee the other way its the switch

 

499.jpeg.a5f88046354f6dcd042001c10928c801.jpeg

 

As you can see just slide the rail in and file,

 

501.jpeg.bc0c9faa72412542b9aaf72f5ac240b8.jpeg

 

One switch rail, the result on the right (the other hand is on the other side 

 

500.jpeg.4a1af05056aede30529afd3589a6a9c2.jpeg

 

The shorter grove is for the vee

 

502.jpeg.076658c9c79b91e848e7c225a684d87d.jpeg

 

The finished result

 

New these jigs are $60 USD + postage, for me a very quick win for filing code 100 (or 75 or 82) to 1-6 angles,

 

I have just tried a piece of code 75 bullhead rail in the switch part and it works a treat, may save me a bit of time filing switch rails   

Edited by hayfield
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On 08/07/2021 at 12:21, hayfield said:

I bought a nice piece of kit off eBay for £25 plus postage, a flat bottom1-6 vee and switch rail jig for codes 75 to 100

 

497.jpeg.16e38410de673c45f9fb251dfd963bea.jpeg

 

 

 

498.jpeg.bce23dda6e0771d894d3202ca9155ce8.jpeg

 

there are 2 slots both sides, slide a rail in one way its the vee the other way its the switch

 

499.jpeg.a5f88046354f6dcd042001c10928c801.jpeg

 

As you can see just slide the rail in and file,

 

501.jpeg.bc0c9faa72412542b9aaf72f5ac240b8.jpeg

 

One switch rail, the result on the right (the other hand is on the other side 

 

500.jpeg.4a1af05056aede30529afd3589a6a9c2.jpeg

 

The shorter grove is for the vee

 

502.jpeg.076658c9c79b91e848e7c225a684d87d.jpeg

 

The finished result

 

New these jigs are $60 USD + postage, for me a very quick win for filing code 100 (or 75 or 82) to 1-6 angles,

 

I have just tried a piece of code 75 bullhead rail in the switch part and it works a treat, may save me a bit of time filing switch rails   

These are what I use too John. I really like them. I am in Ontario like Fast Tracks so I was able to pick them up in person and see the manufacturing facility they have which was good to see. Tom

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  • 2 weeks later...

Along with Wayne and Finetrax, Templot is not only developing as a track design piece of software but also embracing 3D printing, away from actually printing chairs and turnouts Martin Wynn has designed a 3D printed filing jig

 

517.jpeg.49baa16e9be5956baa2bef464f13a305.jpeg  Rail is inserted between the two blocks

 

518.jpeg.455b4fb0db96d5d4b8ee9caa8bdd6dfc.jpeg  File the tips accurately

 

519.jpeg.8d74442e9b5e2884b8652697e6cd45d5.jpeg  A near perfect join is made (I used an EMGS jig to hold the rails together, a simple jig from thick card can be made)

 

520.jpeg.a1c21027711fed150ce306be77547f00.jpeg

 

Very quickly a nice 1-5 vee is made

 

 

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