RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 16, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 16, 2012 Martin Brent gave me a good tip add a little body colour to the final varnish coat it will tone down lettering lining and white handrails. Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Martin Brent gave me a good tip add a little body colour to the final varnish coat it will tone down lettering lining and white handrails. Don I don't actually add a final varnish coat Don. I did try this once but found that the change to the surface texture that the varnish effected spoilt the result. I use a lot of talc when doing weathering jobs. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Nice weathering work on those opens. I can't see the brake gear mistake but then I'm no expert on brake gear. As long as it's there, ad looks vaguely plausible (eg set up so that dropping the lever would apply rather than retract the shoes) I'm unlikely to notice. Is it the use of a two shoe per side set up without a tie bar between the axleboxes? My own Toad is currently in basic grey with black underframe, awaiting transfers and weathering. I'll have to see if I can get a reasonable photo with the old digital instamatic. The ag imp wagon is approaching that stage and the Y7 chassis and wheels just got their first spritz of etch primer this afternoon. Progress is happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckjumper Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 (edited) As long as it's there, ad looks vaguely plausible (eg set up so that dropping the lever would apply rather than retract the shoes) I'm unlikely to notice. I think that's the mistake on the side with the reversing clutch... I'm sure most of us have done the same before, and will do again in the future! I like your natural wood graining on the open wagon very much, Chaz. Edited November 16, 2012 by Buckjumper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 I think that's the mistake on the side with the reversing clutch... I'm sure most of us have done the same before, and will do again in the future! I like your natural wood graining on the open wagon very much, Chaz. Yes, you've got me banged to rights! Pushing the lever down is supposed to apply the brakes but on that side of W28894..... The brake levers were spares which came from another kit (possibly a Slater's) and one them included the reversing dog clutch - but the brakes themselves were the Coopercraft originals. I supposed I should have swapped the push rods around. Ho Hum. Wood graining? On the GW open it was all done with two colours of paint and a cocktail stick. P21493 had a few lines put on with a scalpel. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 (edited) The cobbles have been a long slog of a job but I finished scribing them into the DAS today. How many? Well, from the baseboard edge to the rail where the cobbles finish is equivalent to a row of exactly 100 (what are the chances of that?). There are nine rows to an inch. And the area is about 31 inches long. So that's 9 x 31 x 100 So about 28 thousand setts..... I must be mad. I have given them a quick wash of dark grey acrylic, which makes the pattern show nicely, but as you can see this is a bit patchy and I will need to add a second wash when the first has had a chance to dry out. It is a nice feature, and I am pleased with the result BUT I wouldn't want to do anything like it again. It should look good with a road vehicle or two parked on it. The area to the bottom right of the photos will need blending in so that there is not a drop off the end. I have it in mind to have a bank with grass and weeds and a footpath leading away under the road bridge which is planned to cross the yard just beyond the cobbled area. WTS. Chaz Edited November 24, 2012 by chaz 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Dienstleiter Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Sliding Doors: In a way it is a shame that you decided to have all the wharehouse doors shut: the potato factory on Helfenberg has a pair of operable sliding doors and when the wagon loads of spuds arrive, the doors are slid open and the spuds (fixed inserts of course) are removed from the wagons - I was always surprised at how very few people noticed this being done at exhibitions. The wagons would then be drawn back out, miraculously empty and loads passed back to the south end operator for further use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 If you were not mad to start with you may well be now. I quite like the uneven wash colouring. I would refrain from putting to much on there, otherwise all your hard work will be hidden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 Sliding Doors: In a way it is a shame that you decided to have all the wharehouse doors shut: the potato factory on Helfenberg has a pair of operable sliding doors and when the wagon loads of spuds arrive, the doors are slid open and the spuds (fixed inserts of course) are removed from the wagons - I was always surprised at how very few people noticed this being done at exhibitions. The wagons would then be drawn back out, miraculously empty and loads passed back to the south end operator for further use. Something like that would have been good, BUT the cassettes for industrial spur are just behind the doors and on a lower level. I couldn't think of any way of making the view through an open pair of doors realistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 If you were not mad to start with you may well be now. I quite like the uneven wash colouring. I would refrain from putting to much on there, otherwise all your hard work will be hidden. I might well agree when I see the effect after it has dried. I will need to do a bit of touching in though as I can see a few chinks of white DAS in the gaps between the cobbles. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted November 25, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2012 Hi Chaz It may have been a struggle, but the end result looks superb, so I would say that the effort was well worth it. Cheers SS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Hi Chaz, All of the effort has certainly paid off, the cobbles look great. Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Chaz That looks great well done very nice. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herr Dienstleiter Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 (edited) Something like that would have been good, BUT the cassettes for industrial spur are just behind the doors and on a lower level. I couldn't think of any way of making the view through an open pair of doors realistic. That's the funny thing about it ...nobody seemed to notice my hand emerging or the total lack of reality 'back stage' - is that about the semi-theatrical side of building a convincing layout? I forgot to mention that the doors in the spud factory do slide back and fore so it is only when the spuds need removing that they are open. Edited November 25, 2012 by Herr Dienstleiter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 That's the funny thing about it ...nobody seemed to notice my hand emerging or the total lack of reality 'back stage' - is that about the semi-theatrical side of building a convincing layout? I forgot to mention that the doors in the spud factory do slide back and fore so it is only when the spuds need removing that they are open. I understand your point entirely, however the traffic into and out of the warehouse will usually be in vans so..... You can't tell if they are loaded or not (a bonus!). They form an effective screen so that you can't see much of the doors anyway. I know what you mean about the hand - I think people overlook it when it descends to couple or uncouple BUT I always notice when the hand appears to prod a loco - not good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 Hi Chaz It may have been a struggle, but the end result looks superb, so I would say that the effort was well worth it. Cheers SS Hi Chaz, All of the effort has certainly paid off, the cobbles look great. Alan. Chaz That looks great well done very nice. Pete Thanks for those comments, lads! In the next day or two, after I have done a little more work with the paintbrush, I will take another snap or two. Maybe some close-ups. WTS. Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Well 'stone' me, what a truly magnificent load of old ...'cobbles'! I reckon that's that corner of your layout well and truly 'sett' up then Chaz? Well, someone had to say it..... I know, byeeeee :-) David PS: But seriously... a superb piece of patient and determined modelling - fab-u-lous! Edited November 28, 2012 by David Siddall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Well 'stone' me, what a truly magnificent load of old ...'cobbles'! I reckon that's that corner of your layout well and truly 'set' up then Chaz? David PS: But seriously... a superb piece of patient and determined modelling - fab-u-lous! Well, when I've finished cringing I must say thanks for the comment (but not for the pun ), David. You are quite right - the cobbled area finishes off nicely what was a blank bit. Of course what keeps happening is that each bit I complete "reveals" another bit that needs sorting. I suppose that eventually I will run out of bits that need sorting. Ho Hum. I did discover last night that in one or two places where the setts were a bit too dark (the acrylic paint wash is patchy) I could lighten the tone with some very careful use of a fibreglass scratch brush. I will need to add a wash in places where the effect is too light and to touch in some white bits between the setts, but I will be leaving the majority of the area patchy, as I think it looks OK. Next area is going to need grass and weeds - not my strong point, so a learning curve is about to be tackled..... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alant Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Next area is going to need grass and weeds - not my strong point, so a learning curve is about to be tackled..... Chaz, I used hanging basket liner and paint brush bristles with various scatter/foam materials for what bit of greenery I have on my current layout. I also bought some grass clumps for use in various places. I quite like the look of the static grass applicators nowadays but not tried one yet. Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 Only just found this thread, and that was thanks to my pal Mr Wenlock.... Must say, I'm glad to have seen it Smashing modelling sir, and I don't know how you have the patience for all that scribing BTW. On the view of your siding which is laid in granite sets, what did you use to get your flangeways so neat & even? Cheers Marc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Only just found this thread, and that was thanks to my pal Mr Wenlock.... Must say, I'm glad to have seen it Smashing modelling sir, and I don't know how you have the patience for all that scribing Cheers Marc Thank you Marc, it is encouraging when forum users make such comments. As to patience I just plodded through - probably the worst moment was when I realised I was about half way through 'em..... On the view of your siding which is laid in granite sets, what did you use to get your flangeways so neat & even? I used strips of thick-ish card - mounting board off-cuts from a local picture framer. A strip was put in place on each side, propped up against the rail, and the DAS thumbed down between them. However I found it best to cut these strips to no more than a couple of inches, otherwise it was impossible to get them out without disturbing the DAS. Short lengths could be slid out sideways - lifting vertically was a no-no - it tended to pull the DAS away. This meant that the clay in the four foot had to be applied in short sections. As I levelled the surface by laying a steel rule across the top of the rails to detect high and low spots I had to re-insert and remove the card several times. I soon got into a routine of applying some DAS and, while it was drying (at least 24 hours), scribing the setts on a dry section. Chaz Edited November 27, 2012 by chaz 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Chaz, I used hanging basket liner and paint brush bristles with various scatter/foam materials for what bit of greenery I have on my current layout. I also bought some grass clumps for use in various places. I quite like the look of the static grass applicators nowadays but not tried one yet. Alan. Ah, yes, a friend of mine has a static grass applicator with which he has had very good results. I think I will persuade him to lend it to me (he has my loco chassis assembly jig so it will be fair dos! ). Grass clumps sound good - can I ask which brand? Have you got any photos of the results? Chaz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc smith Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) Thank you Marc, it is encouraging when forum users make such comments. As to patience I just plodded through - probably the worst moment was when I realised I was about half way through 'em..... I used strips of thick-ish card - mounting board off-cuts from a local picture framer. A strip was put in place on each side, propped up against the rail.......Chaz Thanks for that Chaz I thought about placing pieces / offcuts of plasticard in position, to do just as you describe..... Though I think I'd wait for the DAS to dry out thoroughly, before removing them BTW. You say you think your flangeways are a tad too big, but they look pretty fine to me And don't forget, that picture was taken from directly above... When you view from the side, and at eye-level, I'm sure you won't notice, especially when the whole thing is weathered.... Thanks for that Marc Edited November 27, 2012 by marc smith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 I thought about placing pieces / offcuts of plasticard in position, to do just as you describe..... Though I think I'd wait for the DAS to dry out thoroughly, before removing them You might be OK if you used plasticard but using card you couldn't leave the pieces in place - the DAS bonds very well to any slightly absorbent surface. BTW. You say you think your flangeways are a tad too big, but they look pretty fine to me And don't forget, that picture was taken from directly above... When you view from the side, and at eye-level, I'm sure you won't notice, especially when the whole thing is weathered.... What you say is true BUT the flangeways are very generous when compared with the prototype. But then so are the ones on Peco points! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaz Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) I decided it would be as well if I ran something up and down the inset track (not before time!) to check that all is well. Now the baseboard that the cobbles are on is not the one which has all the DCC kit so the only way to power the tracks short of doing a full layout assemble (NO - don't be silly!) is to hook up the tracks to my Bench PSU. Of course that means it's probably wise to use the only loco which doesn't yet have a decoder in it... Runs like a dream, and had no problem creeping over the cobbles. My care in ensuring the DAS surface is just below rail height seems to have worked. Incidentally I bought a Zimo sound decoder for the Ixion Hudswell Clarke at Warley so it will join the stud in the next day or two. Chaz Edited November 27, 2012 by chaz 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now