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Building a 'Princess Royal' pacific in 4mm


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Guest Lyonesse

I just got mine today. The plan is to build it in P4 with all the trimmings --- probably Princess Arthur of Connaught in BR green. But first I have to finish the Saint, Hall and N15 that are just about to enter the paint shops.

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  • 3 months later...

Any updates on this?

I have built a comet tender with the Lanakshire models chassis for mine which will be 6205 Princess Victoria. Got the nameplates today, and have the boiler and smokebox rolled.

Just finishing off a Gibson 3F with a CSB (first try at this) before starting in earnest on this one which may also incorporate a CSB ( need to explore the solution for having abogie and trailing truck).

Question

What/how did you push the rivits out?

 

Philbax

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Hi Phil!

Any updates on this?

I have built a comet tender with the Lanakshire models chassis for mine which will be 6205 Princess Victoria. Got the nameplates today, and have the boiler and smokebox rolled.

Looks like you're slightly ahead of me on the boiler front! I've got the tender mostly built and am also fitting a Lanarkshire tender chassis to it. I guess I ought to sort some pics out soon.....

Question

What/how did you push the rivits out?

 

Philbax

I used a GW Models rivet press, which made that task very easy indeed. Now, I wouldn't advise doing such a task so late at night, but I found I could concentrate better when doing the work just before calling it a night. Yes, I'd had a beer too....

 

Cheers,

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Any updates on this?

I have built a comet tender with the Lanakshire models chassis for mine which will be 6205 Princess Victoria. Got the nameplates today, and have the boiler and smokebox rolled.

 

I only got hold of a Comet tender plus some other parts at the Watford show, so am very behind. I'm not using the Lanarkshire chassis, as I want to make use of the Comet one that was supplied in the tender kit. Seems a pity to waste it, and it does have EM spacers that are usable.

 

Also had a spare set of Ultrascale bogie, trailing truck and tender wheels in the drawer, plus the indented driving axles and some crankpins, so the only things needed are 6 driving wheels.

 

Incidentally, has anyone noticed how quickly the frets seem to tarnish if left open to the air? I've hardly touched the first (46201) of my pair, yet it has come out in all sorts of green spots, and that's even after putting the fret back inside the tissue paper that it came wrapped in. I wasn't aware my home was so corrosive......!

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Incidentally, has anyone noticed how quickly the frets seem to tarnish if left open to the air? I've hardly touched the first (46201) of my pair, yet it has come out in all sorts of green spots, and that's even after putting the fret back inside the tissue paper that it came wrapped in. I wasn't aware my home was so corrosive......!

Mine's not done that at all... Still got a few things left to snip off the fret once I get round to it, but there's not a blemish on it. Sure it's not down to the after-effects of those curries you cook? :stinker:

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I only got hold of a Comet tender plus some other parts at the Watford show, so am very behind. I'm not using the Lanarkshire chassis, as I want to make use of the Comet one that was supplied in the tender kit. Seems a pity to waste it, and it does have EM spacers that are usable.

 

Also had a spare set of Ultrascale bogie, trailing truck and tender wheels in the drawer, plus the indented driving axles and some crankpins, so the only things needed are 6 driving wheels.

 

Incidentally, has anyone noticed how quickly the frets seem to tarnish if left open to the air? I've hardly touched the first (46201) of my pair, yet it has come out in all sorts of green spots, and that's even after putting the fret back inside the tissue paper that it came wrapped in. I wasn't aware my home was so corrosive......!

I don't know where you are keeping them but we haven't seen any tarnishing on n/s etches, some of ours have been in the workshop for the last 12 years or so. Brass is a different story though, sometimes the etches tarnish very quickly - if you can't feel any roughness on the surface they are perfectly OK to use. If they were that bad we'd have sent them back to Photoetch.

Michael Edge

Judith Edge kits

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I don't know where you are keeping them but we haven't seen any tarnishing on n/s etches, some of ours have been in the workshop for the last 12 years or so.

Mine are kept sandwiched between the two boards, in the downstairs front room. It must be something in the atmosphere here. I'm mystified. Anyway, won't take long to clean up.

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the tranising could be down to pine oil out of the wood which is being used to keep the kits stright. As pine oil is in flux under one of its many names and is party the resone why flux stains

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Tissue will also contains pine oil But as you say all your parts are kept the same so dose seem to be something else that's the problem. 

Michael how are the new etches,s princess royal coming on

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Tissue will also contains pine oil But as you say all your parts are kept the same so dose seem to be something else that's the problem. 

Michael how are the new etches,s princess royal coming on

 

The hardboard is similar to the stuff we used to use underneath carpet and carpet underlay. One side looks similar to lino.

 

I thought the tissue paper was pretty much the same grade that most etched kit people use - i.e. acid-free, so it can't have been that.

 

I reckon it's got to be something in the atmosphere here. Maybe a dehumidifier might help.

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The only references I can find on t'web for pine oil in tissue relate to wrapping products for citrus fruit and toilet tissue. As HT already pointed out, most if not all etched kit suppliers use acid free wrapping tissue which is not difficult to obtain.

 

I think farren's reference to pine oil may be something of a red cannon (or is it a loose herring?).

 

Jol

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

What are the shortcomings of the Hornby Princess? I was going to get one.

Dave

 

ooh, where do I start! We'll start with the boiler... Lacking girth and having a badly shaped firebox. Also, to the best of my knowledge, I've never known a tapered boiler start at the front of the smokebox before...

The cab is a complete dog's breakfast (in all dimensions) and various items along the running plate are just plain wrong. As the Irishman would say (when asked for directions) "I wouldn't start from here!". It hails from the mid 1980s when Hornby revamped the then-ancient Tri-ang model. The only modification it has had since then has been to move the leading splasher forwards to suit the newer chassis from 2002/3. Even then, it still kept a split rear bissel truck, which looks ghastly. The tender body is the original 1977 Duchess one, which has seriously misplaced rivet lines (obvious to the eyes) and generally very clunky in appearance. As an aside, the flush-sided Duchess one (from 2002/3) is a modified version of this as all the hallmarks are there.

 

Put simply, I sure as anything wouldn't buy one ;)

 

 

Tim

What guage wire did you use for the window surround please

thx

Philbax

 

 

Just realised I'd not replied to this one, sorry Phil! 0.35mm phosphor-bronze wire was used for this. Worked a treat :).

 

Cheers,

 

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ooh, where do I start! We'll start with the boiler... Lacking girth and having a badly shaped firebox. Also, to the best of my knowledge, I've never known a tapered boiler start at the front of the smokebox before...

The cab is a complete dog's breakfast (in all dimensions) and various items along the running plate are just plain wrong. As the Irishman would say (when asked for directions) "I wouldn't start from here!". It hails from the mid 1980s when Hornby revamped the then-ancient Tri-ang model. The only modification it has had since then has been to move the leading splasher forwards to suit the newer chassis from 2002/3. Even then, it still kept a split rear bissel truck, which looks ghastly. The tender body is the original 1977 Duchess one, which has seriously misplaced rivet lines (obvious to the eyes) and generally very clunky in appearance. As an aside, the flush-sided Duchess one (from 2002/3) is a modified version of this as all the hallmarks are there.

 

Put simply, I sure as anything wouldn't buy one ;)

 

 

 

 

Just realised I'd not replied to this one, sorry Phil! 0.35mm phosphor-bronze wire was used for this. Worked a treat :).

 

Cheers,

 

I realise that the question of quality in the Hornby Princess is one I cannot answer, but the Hornby version scubs up ok with a bit of image editing...  so while many dimensions are no doubt inaccurate, it can look pretty good...   Equally I comprehend scratch-building and its pleasures, and that it can be a very great thing to get things right..

 

post-7929-0-08603800-1368226930.jpg

 

Apologies if you have seen this before,

 

Cheers,

 

Rob

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