Mike G Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Although I won't be doing mine with it, I do wonder what one of these with CSB would be like when done...... And over to Ivan....too many to finish at present (2 Castles, Brit, County, 43xx and 9 coaches to have their roofs done, if it ever stops BL++DY raining!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 And over to Ivan.... At this rate, I'd have to think about taking on two - one on CSB, the other on Bradwell individual leaf springs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 This is now my normal method of working - all the parts which will benefit from etching, either for detail or for accurate fitting are etched, other simple parts are not. This saves space on the etch, which means that each sheet has parts for several locos but this makes production runs much more difficult. I now have a fairly large number of these etches in 3mm, 4mm and 7mm scales but I won't publish a list just yet. Tease. I'll look forward to it when you do publish that list. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) Having seen a few 'Pricess' Pacifics in the flesh in steam days, Hornby dummed the damned things down in my mind with thier poor models and it is only on seeing Mike Edge's stunning models that I am reminded how imposing and beautiful these machines were. With Mike's etchings, have we to use the Hornby boiler? Edited June 29, 2012 by coachmann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 Having seen a few 'Pricess' Pacifics in the flesh in steam days, Hornby dummed the damned things down with thier models and it is only on seeing Mike Edge's stunning models that I am reminded how imposing and beautiful these machines were. With Mike's etchings, have we to use the Hornby boiler? No. The Hornby one is rather undernourished (to the tune of a millimetre or so) and the firebox is worse still. The plan for my one is to use the boiler and firebox plots Mike has provided me with and make from sheet metal (brass or n/s). The smokebox is already provided on the etch and goes nicely with a resin cast door. That's a bit down the line for the moment as I've got the running gear to get working first. Cheers, 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) Tease. I'll look forward to it when you do publish that list. *fantasises wildly* I do hope that there might be parts for a Hawksworth 15xx shunter on that list. /*fantasises wildly* .....With Mike's etchings, have we to use the Hornby boiler? No. You can roll your own, or use / adapt ProScale's (I'm using my leftover etches as templates), or possibly even use the old K's castings (if you have any sitting spare). .....The smokebox is already provided on the etch and goes nicely with a resin cast door. .... I thought there were no fittings included? Where might we get a suitable door from.....wait....hang on... 247 Developments does a range of doors, and might have an appropriate cast one. Edited June 29, 2012 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 I thought there were no fittings included? Where might we get a suitable door from.....wait....hang on... 247 Developments does a range of doors, and might have an appropriate cast one. I've been provided with a door, backhead and very soon some axleboxes for the bissel truck, all in cast resin. As to whether they would be made available (no doubt at extra cost) if/when the etch becomes "public", that's very much down to Mike! Other fittings like lubricators etc are very much left to ourselves. Mine will need full AWS gear too, which is available from Comet for a small sum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjnewitt Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 *fantasises wildly* I do hope that there might be parts for a Hawksworth 15xx shunter on that list. /*fantasises wildly* An 8400 0-6-0PT would be better. You could use the boiler and fittings from a Finney 2251! Those Princesses do look rather good. They're a bit out of my area but they have me itching to get back to my steam locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 "Princess" trailing truck castings are also produced by Comet - ref. LS12 I think. A cab backhead casting is available from Craftsman Models (ref. C144) Chimney and dome are going to be a problem - I haven't spotted anything suitable from the usual sources. Not sure about DMR - they never seem to publish any lists of fittings that might be available from them, and anyway they specialise in LNER and SR engines. An 8400 0-6-0PT would be better. You could use the boiler and fittings from a Finney 2251! The no.10 boiler was also common to 15xx, 2251 and 94/84/34xx - only the smokebox was shorter on the 15xx. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 As you demonstrated with the Stanier Mogul, it is amazing what the careful sourcing of parts can achieve. Chris Reading subsequent posts has set me thinking. Would there be more people using this approach to build models if there was more awareness among them of what parts are available to be sourced? Anyone would think that the hobby is turning into a secret society! Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted June 29, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 29, 2012 Reading subsequent posts has set me thinking. Would there be more people using this approach to build models if there was more awareness among them of what parts are available to be sourced? Anyone would think that the hobby is turning into a secret society! Chris Only if you think that every time a modeller designs some etched parts/castings/3D prints of something he wants to build, that he has some sort of duty to advertise and start marketing them. Hardly a "Secret Society" because there has always been a huge amount of stuff produced privately that has never been widely known or advertised. I prefer to just be grateful to Mike that some of the rather excellent etches that he has produced for his own private use are now being made more widely known and that he is willing to make them available to the rest of us. Back on thread....... Those finished locos certainly look the part and I really look forward to seeing Tim's progress. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) .....Hardly a "Secret Society" because there has always been a huge amount of stuff produced privately that has never been widely known or advertised. I would have thought that was a hallmark of a secret society - you'd never know about it! Has anyone ever come across Vulcan's 4mm etch for the 57xx pannier? I've only ever seen one. .....be grateful to Mike that some of the rather excellent etches that he has produced for his own private use are now being made more widely known and that he is willing to make them available to the rest of us. The more, the merrier. Edited June 29, 2012 by Horsetan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 The cab is virtually complete now. Just minor internals to add and it's done. This is the first time I can ever remember using wire to form the surrounds to cabside windows, but it went a lot better than I expected it would and the result is below. I made a bit of a mistake with one of the glass holders between the windows by getting it upside down, but I've solved that little issue with snipping the top of it to match the bottom (I know it's not fully correct, but it'll have to do!). The floor is a piece of brass scrap that happened to be the right size. The pair of boxes have been fixed in place, though not without a bit of ado. I'll need to see about immersing the cab area into an ultrasonic bath to get rid of all remaining flux residue. Thanks to using a few suitable photographs, I've now added a handful of missing rivets on the frame extensions above the rear truck. Photos of those will have to wait until another time, which will be when I build the chassis in around 6 weeks time. It's certainly starting to look more like a 'Princess' though, that's for sure! 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted June 30, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 30, 2012 You've done a good job with the window beading - this is how we always did it before the days of etching and I think it often looks better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 You've done a good job with the window beading - this is how we always did it before the days of etching and I think it often looks better. Thanks Mike. I'll agree it does look a lot better than a mere etch. The real thing is round section anyway, so it makes a lot more sense to the same in 4mm. Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Sliding windows next? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Sliding windows next? Inside window frames are already in (awaiting filing back to the frames for the back ones), but they do have a nice 3D about them. I'm modelling high summer anyway, so they'll be fixed open! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 ....and tipping tip-up seats? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 ....and tipping tip-up seats? Probably one tipped up where fireman would be and the driver sat with his derriere firmly on it! That the loco will only ever be seen going at up to line speed (75mph) at a distance of 4ft+ from the exhibition-going public means you'd never see it anyway! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2012 its nice to see some princess royal's what look like the real class. and i like the mike edge kit a nice idea. just the tryper boiler which puts me off i don't think i am up to building one of them. is the Hornby boiler up to it? any way looking forward to seeing the end result Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tom F Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 its nice to see some princess royal's what look like the real class. and i like the mike edge kit a nice idea. just the tryper boiler which puts me off i don't think i am up to building one of them. is the Hornby boiler up to it? any way looking forward to seeing the end result If you have a look further up the page, Tim already states why the Hornby boiler and firebox are not up to the job! Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted July 1, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 1, 2012 yep i see it now i missed that bit Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 .... just the tryper boiler which puts me off .... Taper boilers are not necessarily difficult. In simple terms, think about rolling a cone shape. Then tilt your cone so that the bottom / base is horizontal. Then lop some material off the top of the front end, and some material from the bottom of the rear end. The idea is that both ends are then vertical, and you will then have a taper boiler. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 Taper boilers are not necessarily difficult. In simple terms, think about rolling a cone shape. Then tilt your cone so that the bottom / base is horizontal. Then lop some material off the top of the front end, and some material from the bottom of the rear end. The idea is that both ends are then vertical, and you will then have a taper boiler. Not quite that simple, as you well know Ivan, the method you describe will not give flat/square ends to the length of the boiler. What you really need is someone who can either: a. Do the maths and convert the angles and lengths into a CAD drawing. b. Draw it in 3D and convert back to a 2D shape. Fortunately there are people on this forum who can and could do both. Not me I hasten to add. Mike 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted July 2, 2012 Author Share Posted July 2, 2012 To add to what Mike has said above, having looked again at the CAD plot I have here, it has two very subtle arcs at a massive radius for each end (likewise the solitary boiler band) and subtly diverging lines for the sides. At least if I muck up on the first one, I have a second one to assist! The same applies for the firebox, which is in two halves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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