Semaphore Signals - 4mm Scale (Mainly)

[LNERGE]

This one has a tubular doll but the pictures may be of interest..

 

 

 

[Steve Hewitt]

This one has a tubular doll but the pictures may be of interest..

 

Camera 610.jpg

 

Camera 609.jpg

 

Camera 608.jpg

Yes indeed!

Thanks very much,

Steve.

[Highlandman]

SteveAtBax, on 29 Mar 2014 - 22:56, said:SteveAtBax, on 29 Mar 2014 - 21:56, said:

The holes for the handrail stanchons have been drilled through 0.45mm.

 

P1000846.jpg

 

Using a small block of wood of the correct thickness, the Lace Pins I use for the Stanchions are inserted and soldered in place.

 

 

Steve.

 

As always, another useful tip from the master if signal construction. What a great way of making sure all the stantions are the same height. Something I will be using in future. Keep up the great work Steve.

Edited March 31, 2014 by Highlandman

[LNERGE]

Here a lettuce one..

 

 

 

I think you could probably grow lettuces in the woodwork up there.

[Jon Fitness]

This one has a tubular doll but the pictures may be of interest..

 

Camera 610.jpg

 

Camera 609.jpg

 

Camera 608.jpg

 

 

Here a lettuce one..

 

DSC05811.jpg

 

DSC05812.jpg

 

I think you could probably grow lettuces in the woodwork up there.

Go on then...where are (or were) they?

JF

Edited March 30, 2014 by Jon Fitness

[LNERGE]

They are, from the top, Cowbit's former up distant 33

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/68227206@N05/7335295096/in/photolist-cbciF7-cXMQxY-fPSQiV-7T3GmC-fPSPgK-fPSNug-fPSMf2-fQanxC-fQakdy-fPSNRr-fPSPDt-fPSN36-8YPWb2-9rYGUu-9pejwq-9rWWT3-9kaXoS-byaoau-ethsSm-axwi7T-7T3JDh-7SZqsR-7T3MFb-7SZAmH-7SZwYg-7T3KAh-7SZuSk-7SZyNT-7T3HcA-7T3JdA-7SZxTc-7SZvGT-7SZqNx-7SZsEg-7T3GN9-7SZxqk-7SZw8z-7SZzGx-7T3LoA-7T3Fa7-7SZyha-7SZtXX-7SZyDt-7T3Qqy-axwi9p-axyZSd-axyZTb-9UDLm5-aeCwsw-9UAVva-byaoaA

 

 

and French Drove's down homes 10/12 that are now Wansford's up inner homes.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/68227206@N05/13152926293/in/photolist-m3hbKg-fSjP1S-fSjS2k-fSjSAB-dkco7C-dndb9K-drbesD-mudwpa-eRsteo-eY9imN-bXajfb-9c9Hux-axsKJY-dkcj7i-dkbDX1-dp74sz-dro3mk-8wNQkL-ejJ4mf-7CaCK6-dnFaL9-dkrxLn-dmS8wB-dndeNW-drEvCR-dsYFcy-dnFbiw-dpGSYg-dsYEkb-8g4A31-9VkAVq-9PBZwh-bo4bMS-8r9CNB-ednKPu-btPGHg-aY3uHp-dhuxUE

 

Edit to add.. They are still there today though i suspect the one at the NVR will need some serious work before too long.

Edited March 30, 2014 by LNERGE

[Steve Hewitt]

This one has a tubular doll but the pictures may be of interest..

 

Camera 610.jpg

 

Camera 609.jpg

 

Camera 608.jpg

 

 

Here a lettuce one..

 

DSC05811.jpg

 

DSC05812.jpg

 

I think you could probably grow lettuces in the woodwork up there.

They show subtle differences in the construction of the bracket which are quite interesting.

The unusual (to me) way the staging has been built on the "Lettuce" signal to allow the single ladder to reach the Doll is worthy of a model in its own right.

Thanks very much.

Steve.

[LNERGE]

They show subtle differences in the construction of the bracket which are quite interesting.

The unusual (to me) way the staging has been built on the "Lettuce" signal to allow the single ladder to reach the Doll is worthy of a model in its own right.

Thanks very much.

Steve.

I will try and find out if that is a post 'preservation' modification...

[micknich2003]

Steve, the ladder arrangement you mention is/was quite common on the former Eastern Region. I will see what pictures I have.

 

 

[Steve Hewitt]

Steve, the ladder arrangement you mention is/was quite common on the former Eastern Region. I will see what pictures I have.

Hi Mick,

 

Thanks very much.

Not having first hand experience on the railways I always have to rely on you professionals, and your willingness to help is really appreciated.

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Later..........

 

First we have the Handrails:

These have been carefully bent up from 0.40mm dia N/S straight wire.

They are made to be a fit on the outside of the Stanchions.

 

Here the Staging has been added to the signal.

Sorry no pictures of the process, I needed my three hands to hold and solder, so the camera had to wait.

The Handrails have also been attached.

Although made in one piece, the join has to be made.

I've used a short length of brass tube 0.6mm OD and 0.4mm ID.

This just slides over the joint and is soldered with lots of flux, and very little solder on a hot iron.

 

Finally for now, the bearings for the Weight Bars have been added.

The pivot holes have been drilled into both sides of the main post, carefully measured to line up with each other.

A broken 0.45mm HSS Drill (of which I have a great collection) was pushed through the whole lot to give a good alignment during soldering. Being HSS it doesn't take solder at all well, so its easy to remove.

 

More later.....

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Lack of action on these signals, but I've not been idle.......

 

You may have spotted elsewhere on RMweb that I've been busying myself with Ground Signals for Liverpool Lime Street.

See here if you've missed it.

 

As you will now be aware, I've been spending time working with Les Green to develop some 3D Printed items.

In addition to the Ground Signal, we have had some sample components made for me to use on Upper Quadrant semaphores:

The "sprue" comprises several little sub-assemblies of Arm Bearing, Lamp Bracket and Lamp on a carrier plate, together with a range of "Shoes" which are used to mount round dolls on brackets, and brackets onto round main posts.

The lamps are a mixture of square and round backed types.

The carrier plate is designed with a recessed rear surface, so it can be attached to a round doll or a wooden or lattice square doll.

 

 

 

These are the first test pieces.

The design has been modified slightly and the "production" batch of the Lamp/Bearing assemblies is on order.

You will notice that the bearings in the tests seen here are actually my usual Brass 1/32in tube.

Although very effective, I'm concerned that the brass will detach from the resin when I'm soldering the back blinders in place, which is usually my final assembly operation.

The printed versons with resin "tubes" were too fragile to use, so the bearing is being strengthened for the next batch.

So far they look very promising, and will guarantee a good alignment of the Lamp Lens with the Spectacles on assembly.

When the Arm Bearing, Lamp Bracket and Lamps are separate components, its can be quite tricky to get the alingment accurate, and a very small mis-alignment shows up when the lamps are lit.

 

Once I get the "production" batch, I'll be using them on these Woodford Halse signals.

 

The shoes are designed to fit on three sizes of Brass Tube which I use for the signals I build, 2mm, 1/8in and 4mm dias.

 

Les is going to try using 3D prints as masters for some cast copies.

This could be a very good way of making masters for castings?

 

More soon, I hope.

 

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

They look excellent! There's a world of small signal castings that could be mastered that way; keep him busy Steve and when he's distracted, sneak  the scaling up to 7mm  !!

Jon F.

[Horsetan]

Next will be another signal for Woodford Halse...

 

Actually, it will be a pair to the same design, based on this photo:

56172 copy.jpg

 

....

 

Just so happens that I've got myself a copy of the SRS's signalling diagram book covering Nottingham to Marylebone, which includes Woodford Halse. Fascinating stuff, though not always clear which signal related to which line.

[Steve Hewitt]

...snipped...

 

These are the first test pieces.

The design has been modified slightly and the "production" batch of the Lamp/Bearing assemblies is on order.

You will notice that the bearings in the tests seen here are actually my usual Brass 1/32in tube.

Although very effective, I'm concerned that the brass will detach from the resin when I'm soldering the back blinders in place, which is usually my final assembly operation.

The printed versons with resin "tubes" were too fragile to use, so the bearing is being strengthened for the next batch.

So far they look very promising, and will guarantee a good alignment of the Lamp Lens with the Spectacles on assembly.

When the Arm Bearing, Lamp Bracket and Lamps are separate components, its can be quite tricky to get the alingment accurate, and a very small mis-alignment shows up when the lamps are lit.

 

Once I get the "production" batch, I'll be using them on these Woodford Halse signals.

 

The shoes are designed to fit on three sizes of Brass Tube which I use for the signals I build, 2mm, 1/8in and 4mm dias.

 

Les is going to try using 3D prints as masters for some cast copies.

This could be a very good way of making masters for castings?

 

More soon, I hope.

 

Steve.

And here they are.....

 

Les arrived yesterday with these beauties..

 

 

Les has used 3D printing to make a mould, into which he has poured resin to make these excellent little castings.

They are the three sizes of "shoe" I require on 4mm scale Upper Quadrant bracket signals of typical LMS design.

 

He also brought the "production" version of the Lamp Bracket/Lamp/Arm Bearing assembly which has again been 3d Printed.

 

A very light dusting with Halfords Grey Primer and you can see the detail much better:

 

 

I'm away again for a little while, but can't wait to get back and try all these out.

I'll then let you know how I get on.

 

Steve.

[Jon Fitness]

And here they are.....

 

Les arrived yesterday with these beauties..

P1010081.jpg

 

P1010082.jpg

 

Les has used 3D printing to make a mould, into which he has poured resin to make these excellent little castings.

They are the three sizes of "shoe" I require on 4mm scale Upper Quadrant bracket signals of typical LMS design.

 

He also brought the "production" version of the Lamp Bracket/Lamp/Arm Bearing assembly which has again been 3d Printed.

P1010083.jpg

 

A very light dusting with Halfords Grey Primer and you can see the detail much better:

P1010084.jpg

 

P1010086.jpg

 

I'm away again for a little while, but can't wait to get back and try all these out.

I'll then let you know how I get on.

 

Steve.

All those parts would be nice in lost wax brass in 7mm scale!

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

Its been quite a while.......

since I posted on here.

Main reason has been idleness and holidays.

 

However, back in April, I did a days demonstration at the Leigh 0 Gauge event.

 

As 4mm signals would be a bit inappropriate, I bought a kit for two GWR starter signals from Scale Signal Supply, and made a start on them at the show.

Progress has been at my usual very slow pace, but they are now just about complete.

I was too idle to take pictures of the construction, which was fairly conventional anyway, but here are a few snaps of the result:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And all snug in a box ready for despatch.

[Jon Fitness]

Lovely stuff as usual Steve! Are those bulbs or LEDs in the lamp cases?

JF

[Steve Hewitt]

Lovely stuff as usual Steve! Are those bulbs or LEDs in the lamp cases?

JF

Hi Jon,

 

Thanks.

The lamps are "Gaslight" LEDs from Helmsman Electronics.

http://www.helmsmanuk.co.uk/

 

They're the same ones I use, with fibre optics, in my 4mm signals.

I normally put a 1k ohm resistor in series and run them at 9v DC. (usually a PP9 battery on my bench)

They are quite happy with 12v DC and keep that nice soft colour.

 

Steve.

[Steve Hewitt]

Here's a short video......

   of these two signals on test.

Clip_on_YouTube

 

Steve.

Edited July 21, 2014 by SteveAtBax

[Miss Prism]

Why is the ringed arm a 4' one?

[Steve Hewitt]

Why is the ringed arm a 4' one?

That's what I was asked for.

S.

[The Great Bear]

Steve

 

I have a question, if you don't mind. 

 

How do you secure the operating wire from the signal arm to the balance lever and similarly that from lever to servo, having been through the thread that's not clear to me? I'm trying to work out how to do this in 4mm for signals that have two or more balance levers next to each other at base of signal post and make this fixing small and tidy enough so as not to foul the movement of the adjacent levers. Hopefully my terminology is correct and query is intelligible!

 

Thanks

 

Jon 

[Steve Hewitt]

Steve

 

I have a question, if you don't mind. 

 

How do you secure the operating wire from the signal arm to the balance lever and similarly that from lever to servo, having been through the thread that's not clear to me? I'm trying to work out how to do this in 4mm for signals that have two or more balance levers next to each other at base of signal post and make this fixing small and tidy enough so as not to foul the movement of the adjacent levers. Hopefully my terminology is correct and query is intelligible!

 

Thanks

 

Jon 

Hi Jon,

 

Thanks for your question.

I hope I can answer it clearly. This is my 4mm scale method.

 

My usual practice for terminating operating wires at signal arms and balance weights etc. is:

• Use Nickel Silver 0.4mm dia wire, blackened with "Gun Blue".
• Make a tight right angle bend so the end of the wire passes thru' the arm.
• Cut the end of the wire back so that about 1.5mm protrudes.
• Using parallel action plyers, which have a great mechanical advantage, squeeze the end of the wire so it is retained.

The same method is suitable for Balance Arms, cranks on Rocking Shafts,  etc.

 

However, for Balance Arms on upper quadrant signals, where the Pull wire from the signal box and the wire up to the arm are both on the same side of the Balance Arm Pivot, I often cheat a little.

Instead of using two separate connections I simply crank the operating wire through the balance arm, using two right angle bends. the Balance Arm then just moves with the operating wire.

 

On Lower Quadrant signals where the Pull Wire is on the opposite side of the balance arm pivot to the Down Rod you obviously can't do this.

 

Stopping wires from fouling each other can be difficult, but thigs to try:

• With two balance arms, keep the ends of the operating wires "pointing outwards", so the tight bends of the wires are adjacent.
• Vary the distance of the wire connection from the balance arm pivot on each arm so they don't quite line up together.
• Sometimes I use a loop on the end of the wire and pinch it up close to the balance arm to minimise the space taken up.

If you feel like going a bit "over the top" you can make forked ends for each wire as on this example I made for Liverpool Lime Street:

 

 

 

 

This last picture shows the wires terminated by sqeezing the ends.

 

Sorry its so long winded, but I hope it answers your question.

 

Steve.

[The Stationmaster]

Why is the ringed arm a 4' one?

I know why you asked that  (and 'no' I never saw one on that pattern of arm although I have seen them on the early type of 4ft pressed steel arm.  I won't say they were never used on the older type of 4ft arm but it strikes me as unlikely especially given that the spectacle 'plate' wasn't really suited to that type of signal.)

 

(However I have seen, and photographed, a 4ft Backing arm so I wouldn't entirely rule out one with a ring)