Older Hornby OOA Wagon axles (the swivel type)

[Mallard60022]

Good afternoon all. I have been told to be serious for a change so here is a serious question (or two).

Has anyone any ideas as to what could replace the ghastly swivel axle fitting, with the Stingray style whippy tail piece, on the Hornby OAA and similar 'long' wagons so EM wheel set fitting could be easily achieved?

Alternatively, has anyone ever EMd one and if so what on earth did you do, as my feeble attempt at hacking off the axle sides and inserting some plasticard spacers has been a terrible mistake?

I can't find any info anywhere so maybe no one else has ever bothered.

With another OAA on the way (I do like the actual body moulding despite their age) and an old Hornby Transfesa type van sitting waiting for the EM Doctor, I'm stumped and don't want to ruin two more wagons.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Hacked off, 36E

[Fat Controller]

Good afternoon all. I have been told to be serious for a change so here is a serious question (or two).

Has anyone any ideas as to what could replace the ghastly swivel axle fitting, with the Stingray style whippy tail piece, on the Hornby OAA and similar 'long' wagons so EM wheel set fitting could be easily achieved?

Alternatively, has anyone ever EMd one and if so what on earth did you do, as my feeble attempt at hacking off the axle sides and inserting some plasticard spacers has been a terrible mistake?

I can't find any info anywhere so maybe no one else has ever bothered.

With another OAA on the way (I do like the actual body moulding despite their age) and an old Hornby Transfesa type van sitting waiting for the EM Doctor, I'm stumped and don't want to ruin two more wagons.

Many thanks in anticipation.

Hacked off, 36E

Those single-axle bogies are horrible. On the various ones I've modified, I've used the MJT heavy-duty axleguards with associated compensation fittings, and fitted a thinned-down Hornby axleguard over the outside. To fit the units, I removed the rectangular depression the Hornby unit sat in, and either fitted a false internal floor to that (for vans), or simply used the wagon floor on the opens. I packed underneath the compensation unit with various thicknesses of Plasticard in order to obtain the correct buffer height- the Hornby units sit too high as supplied. The job probably takes less than half-an-hour to carry out. If you're working in EM, then your curves are probably not tight enough to need 'steering', but the compensation element is useful.

Don't do as I did on some early conversions, and use the Bachmann split axle wheel-sets (not that you would in EM)- the MJT assembly did an excellent job at shorting out the track..

[Mallard60022]

Thanks very much Brian. "I packed underneath the compensation unit"; could you just identify the C Unit please?

I think I might have seen your method elsewhere?

Phil

[Fat Controller]

Thanks very much Brian. "I packed underneath the compensation unit"; could you just identify the C Unit please?

I think I might have seen your method elsewhere?

Phil

Here's a link to the web page describing them:-

http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2297.php

[Mallard60022]

Ah, those. Of course, I have used them before on some vans.

I really feel dim in that I never thought of using those on this wagon. I might try one with the usual set up of a CU at one end and rigid at the other.

Many, many thanks.

Phil

[newbryford]

Cheap and easy fix - A small blob of silicone sealant on the tail to limit the movement worked for me (in the dim and distant past). Make sure you stand them on a flat surface whilst the silicone cures.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[Guest jim s-w]

Compensation improves track holding but not running and is in all honesty an outdated idea these days. You'd be much better off using bill bedford sprung W irons. He does he correct type for an OAA

 

HTH

 

Jim