Coldgunner Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Strange question, I've now fitted the buffers etc. In the to and fro of doing that I noticed that one of the steps has become bent. I've bent it back to shape but there is a fracture on one side that if it bends again, it'll snap. Is there a way I can fill the crack or otherwise re-inforce the part to stop it breaking off? Will tinning the back act as filler or is there a better method? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 For brass, you could always fill it with solder. You can also solder a think piece of scrap etch to the back on it (out of sight) to reinforce it if you are worried that it could snap off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 I tried tinning the back, which seems to have done the trick. I need to post another update on the progress as things have vastly improved since the last photo update. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 As promised, here's some updated pictures. Whole loco has been resprayed. It had grey undercoat applied over the top of the matt black, with black satin as the top layer. Its has had four coats now: Grey undercoat Matt black Grey undercoat Satin black The only bit that I've not done and still shows grey is under the boiler. There are some details I've deliberately not added to the loco so it is unprototypical. I ruined the original white metal buffers when it was dropped a few months ago, I replaced these with brass equivalents. The only 'functional' thing left is the coupling hooks, for which I'll get replacements to improve the etches, which I don't like. The buffer beams also need a second lick of paint. Enjoy! M1090003 by Coldgunner, on Flickr M1090002 by Coldgunner, on Flickr M1090001 by Coldgunner, on Flickr Photographing indoors with both flash off and on has not done it justice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 My mojo is back! I'm rather unsatisfied with the etched coupling hooks, so I need to make an enquiry as to where to locate some good cast ones that will hold up? I checked a couple of usual suppliers and nothing cropped up in my quick search. Can someone point me in the right direction? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Slaters do them in cast brass/bronze or whatever it is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold wenlock Posted December 11, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 11, 2013 My mojo is back! I'm rather unsatisfied with the etched coupling hooks, so I need to make an enquiry as to where to locate some good cast ones that will hold up? I checked a couple of usual suppliers and nothing cropped up in my quick search. Can someone point me in the right direction? CPL products do what are in my opinion the best 7mm scale couplings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 I located a set from Gladiator. I'm going to finish this loco off at the weekend. There is very little left to do. I don't think I'm going to bother with the brake rigging as I don't want to interfere with the wiring already in place, or otherwise jeapordise my chassis. The chassis damn well runs! I just need to fit coupling hooks and finish of the wagons I have. Locomotive liveries I guess are as easy as you make them. I'm going to leave it black as it may look garish if I try something brighter. The thoughts are wandering onto what the next loco will be, maybe another small tank. I do feel brave though... The thought of eventually moving up to build an epic like an A3, not quite as daunting as it felt last year. I guess one of my final questions is thus... Fixing a nameplate to a painted surface, should I still do this with solder and the backside tinned, or plain old glue? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Plain glue. Usually a tiny dab of superglue works well. If you want to preserve the paint jpb you can try pva. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Double sided tape. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Will try the tape first, simplest solutions are often best. If that fails, PVA, thanks for the tips! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 No pictures yet, will do some at the weekend. Couplings are secured in place and now she can pull a train if need be. Not entirely sure if my technique for fitting the hooks were correct, but the important thing is that the functional model is done. A few minor cosmetic enhancements to finish and a bit of tidying up. I've opted to leave the brake rodding out. I feel as if I should have done it earlier and any retroactive work would ruin the model. I can honestly say now I am the owner of an O gauge 0-4-0, which is DCC fitted. Pics to follow later in the week. Now to decide what kit next, I'm feeling brave... JLTRT Pannier perhaps?!? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 JLTRT Pannier perhaps?!? A JLTRT 57XX Pannier was my second loco kit after Nellie. It was a bit of a shock, even with the resin casting for the boiler, smokebox and tanks. There are a lot of overlays and the bunker is quite tricky. Their 8750 Pannier kit has a resin cab which may be a better option for a second loco kit. You might be better off trying a few brass wagon kits to help build your confidence. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 I was eyeing up one of the LNER tram kits, perhaps Connesseiurs Y6 or a J70, has anyone built them and are they easy enough to do? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Have you tried a search? If you did, you would, for example, find this: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53833-connoisseur-lner-y6/ Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 16, 2014 I would suggest one of Conoisseur's kits. They generally go together well. Jim is also a very helpful chap so you could ask him. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 I did google search, but didn't search through rmweb, doh! Will have a good read of the Y6 thread, the model doesn't look a million miles different to the starter kit. Thanks for the link. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 Well, still working away, returned to working on the 20T brake van this weekend. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
d600 Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Yes, it's coming together to look like a loco now - well done. "Need to wipe some of the excess solder away" If I may make a suggestion: it looks as if the solder has not really flowed properly so, rather than try to wipe it away, you would do better to reflux the joint and use a more powerfull soldering iron to remelt the solder and to allow time for it to flow well into and along the joints. My expectation would be that you have no excess solder but that which you have would be better and more evenly deployed. David Hi what size soldering iron is the best to go for with 7mm brass kits. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 "Hi what size soldering iron is the best to go for with 7mm brass kits." Well, if I could have only one, I would be a bit stuck to be honest! Much of the time, I use a 25W Antex iron but there are occasions when I need to bring in more heat and so I use my 40W Antex (and very occasionally, my 80W comes out of hibernation); for small 'every day' tasks, I use my 15W Antex. However, most importantly of all, I run these irons on a Variac but a lighting dimmer/switch is just as effective and a lot less expensive - see the recent postings in the thread at: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58132-dock-green/?p=1728093 - this allows you to control the temperature to avoid over oxidation of the bit and also to be able to work effectively with lower melting point solders. Hope this helps. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 Gah, the bug has bitten me again! Got back into working on some of these models and got myself a loop of Peco set track for some hard-floor running. Been looking at my various options so far and I'm seriously considering picking up a LIMA 4F to bolster the growing fleet. I'd have to chop off the couplings and fit a hook and chain, that's easy. Has anyone DCC fitted one and how easy was it? Picked up a SR cattle van (Parkside Dundas) which I'm working on. I think I like working on wagons as I can cock them up a bit, and just make them look a bit "worn" to cover it up! Will trying and get some pictures up soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 "I'm seriously considering picking up a LIMA 4F ... Has anyone DCC fitted one and how easy was it?" Ooooh, I think I would caution against that idea. After your success with your nifty little home-grown 0-4-0T, I think you'd only be disappointed with the 4F that is rather under scale and has a pretty poor motor, even by the standards of the day - and that day was a long time ago. If you don't want to start with another kit, why not look for something second-hand (kit-built) that has more potential and tinker with that? Just my thoughts, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 I should try and get along to one of the shows and try and pick up another loco. A tender loco like a Hall would be a nice addition, but I'm not overly flush atm (why did I pick this scale?!?). I guess I should focus on Ivor a little more, not much to do other than a bit of fettling and finishing the livery. /me starts looking at terriers... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Well, I figured I should revive this thread as the O gauge collection has grown somewhat. I think a little update is in order. I now have track. Peco set-track to be exact. Its a single loop with the two sets of points for sidings. This is pretty easy to set up on the living room floor when the mood takes a fancy. A little intruduction to the fleet I suppose... First of all the Ixion Hudswell Clarke 0-6-0. This is the Forest Green version, I am debating attaching the Wissington nameplates. But at the moment she is stock with a basic DCC decoder fitted. DSC_7640 by Coldgunner, on Flickr The next loco is William herself (him?). Being my first kit build I made mistakes, but it is a functioning loco, albeit temperamental. She runs ok once the motor is warmed up. DSC_7628 by Coldgunner, on Flickr The third entry on this list is the Dapol 08. She is a solid performer. Again DCC fitted, its by far the smoothest and quietest runner I have. DSC_7615 by Coldgunner, on Flickr Next, LMS 6202, the Turbomotive. I bought this loco as a non-runner from eBay. Upon delivery I found that she did in fact run really well and I'm a little perplexed as to why it was advertised as a non-runner. Its clearly unfinished, but mostly done. She runs but she will not navigate the set-track curves. I've had to do some work on her. I've since fitted a new coupling to the front and installed the correct oval buffer type. She's made of brass and the base coat is essentialy done. I've touched up a few scratch marks and tidied up the front end. I have also got her DCC fitted. I needed to fabricate a new drawbar for the coupling and I fitted the tender handrails. She is sprung on the front two drivers and electrical pickup is only on the 6 driving wheels, but because they are sprung, electrical pickup is really good. M1700002 by Coldgunner, on Flickr DSC_0252 by Coldgunner, on Flickr DSC_0335 by Coldgunner, on Flickr Finally, Ivor of course! DSC_7637 by Coldgunner, on Flickr A functional loco with some detail to finish. Last of all is my Warley purchase. I picked up the two LSWR coaches for £100 (the pair), which I'm told is a good deal. These will navigate 2nd radius set-track with an extra coupling link. I think they are Meteor kits and are dated from 1978! They make for a good branch line set. DSC_7642 by Coldgunner, on Flickr I've also been working on some wagons... 24T GWR 6-Wheel toad DSC_0231 by Coldgunner, on Flickr I've also been working on wagons... DSC_0355 by Coldgunner, on Flickr BR 21T Coal hopper (unfinished) DSC_0385 by Coldgunner, on Flickr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coldgunner Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 I recall seeing a a Hudswell Clarke 1800 kit somewhere but cannot recall the manufacturer, does anyone know who this would be? Google is failing me on this Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.