lms flatiron and other tank locos

[farren]

heres a photo of the one i have on the loco, as for a pic of the real thing i'll have a go at scaning that tomorow.

 

 

 

Not wrong with epoxy thats what i used on the flatiron its just a pain i can't solder white metal. the iron is 50watts heat ajustable 100c to 550c  3 types of tips 3,5 and 7mm 145deg solder. the flux is liquid with 9% phosporic aicd and all parts are clean so must be me. long live epoxy

[farren]

well the class 79 as a under coat now. the front buffers are going to have to be glued in place as the bogie's wheels keep catching the back of the buffer (Alan Gibson might have been better) also the good part of the back of the cylinders have had to be ground away so at least it will go round a 4th rad in set track and might make a 3rd on a good day at a slow pace

 

 

[farren]

the class 79 is about finished still some bits to get but they can be added any time shed plates smokebox number auto lube which i forgot and safety valves will also get a loco crew to disguise to cab a bit did have a go at weathering last night but i but its not right ill wash the pastels of and start again. i may put a black/brown wash over it first next time. the loco runs nicely but i did not put enough side wards movement into the back pony wheels and as there more weight on them they force the front bogie's of the rail on the curves on set track i cant see it being a problem when i get round to building my new layout with larger radius curves but its still a pine. have tried to think of a way round it but no luck so far. have put a pic up so any can suggest a better way to weather if see something I'm doing wrong. the browns and greys are not so prominent in real life must be the flash its more the weathering  dose not look real to me

 

 

[farren]

after anther go at weathering it looks much better

 

the rear wheel was cut of and a pony built and fitted will go round 3rd and 2nd curves know and dose not look any worse for the butchery which took place

 

 

 

i thought i would show the new name plates that came yesterday from GCW no connection, i will be able to put up a comparison later when i get some more names from model master as GCW don't do all the ones i want such as 46127 Old Contemptibles which as the same style of name plate as 46170 which may be of interest to some

 

i have just been looking at the model master web site for some names and have notice that they have two  red or black backing for the name plates any ideas as to when or why the 2 colours, is down to sheds? black and white photos don't help much in trying to work out which to go for!

[Horsetan]

...its just a pain i can't solder white metal....

 

You're not the only one. I loathe soldering whitemetal. I occasionally use an 18w Antex for it, but sometimes things go wrong....!

[philbax]

I thing black backing to the nameplates was used when the locos were red or green. The red backing was used when the locos were black as in wartime black  and the postwar black with maroon lining

 

Philbax

[farren]

thank you should have known that.

 

thought i would take a break from tank locos, well ran out of bits to be honest so i have gone back to my Scots for a while have been doing Gordon highlanders and have started to do British legion. have moved the top feed back towards the presser dome and pipes taken of the steam dart (i think that's what its called) turned it round and moved it slightly back and towards the chimney reshaped the frame extensions made new steam pipes. main jobs still to do make a curved revering rod fit a stainer cab not sure if to go for a comet one or just buy a  Hornby rebuilt pat body and use that. brass masters parts have just turned up so may add some of bits later step wheel covers etc

 

 

 

[ozzyo]

Hello Farren,

 

if your thinking about using a Hornby cab one off the Black 5 of 8f may be better as IIRC the rebuilt Pats still had the Fowler type of cab. You could also use a Jubilee cab.

 

OzzyO.

[Horsetan]

Hello Farren,

 

if your thinking about using a Hornby cab one off the Black 5 of 8f may be better as IIRC the rebuilt Pats still had the Fowler type of cab. You could also use a Jubilee cab.

 

Slight error there? The Rebuilt Scots retained the Fowler cab; whilst the Rebuilt Patriots were given Stanier cabs.

 

Also 6170 British Legion had a No.2 boiler which was noticeably longer than the later 2As that were fitted to the Rebuilt Scots and Patriots, giving it the impression that it had its neck stuck out. Click here for slightly fuzzy broadside photo

[ozzyo]

Hello HT,

 

glad to be corrected there, as I was only going from memory. I did know that 46107 had a Stanier cab and was the only Scott that did get one. But for an odd ball what about the Scott with B.R. defectors?

 

OzzyO.

[Horsetan]

Hello HT, glad to be corrected there, as I was only going from memory. I did know that 46107 had a Stanier cab and was the only Scott that did get one. But for an odd ball what about the Scott with B.R. defectors? OzzyO.

There wasn't much left of 6399 once Stanier had finished designing what became 6170. It did look a bit too long, and its no.2 was not interchangeable with the other Rebuilt Scots or Patriots. Remarkable that it lasted 'til 1962.

 

The story goes that 46106's BR deflectors were found to be more effective than the Stanier ones.

[farren]

^{tom coleman did most of the design work for British legion under stainer} 

[farren]

The fire box is shorter on the 6170 by about 1mm  it ends in line with the central drivers on Scots it just after looking at profile photos I would say 3 inches defense, the smoke box is a little longer on 6170 but looks more as the smoke box saddle ends further back giving it a longer over hang also with the rake back steam pipes draw the eye forward making it look longer still . The pipes were charged to the ones I am modeling which are more square. At the moment the model as no some box door fitted which dose make it look short it should end in line with the foot plate with just the door over hanging. By the pics I have the smoke box my have been shortened when the steam pipes where changed. she suffered from drafting problems with rake back steam pipes as it does not look so long after this happened but might be a optical illusion I have been thinking  building a new saddle this would improve the look greatly but I am leaving the fire box well alone.

[farren]

After having a look at the saddle it seems to be the same but looks shorter as the steam pipes are wider on 46170 then the royal scots. So I won't worry about any more. And once the smoke deflatiers are fitted 

[farren]

And hears a photo of the real one

 

[Horsetan]

And hears a photo....

 

I've never listened to a photo before.....

[farren]

I've never listened to a photo before.....

There is a First time for everything 

[farren]

hopefully I will be back to kit building soon once i now which it to do ether a K's ex M.R 0-6-0 2f or maybe the M.R 2-4-2t long bunker I think, but for know a couple pics of the British legion work so far. the loco is in need of a cab and smoke box door which am watching on Ebay at the moment.

 

 

[farren]

well i have been thinking about the Princess Royal i have been doing some more work on the scot's 3 0ut of the 4 are looking like a scot now 2 are now runners needing names and shed plates to finish

 

 

 

[farren]

Long time since I mentioned the flat iron but have dug it out of its box to start work on it. Have managed to build the coupling rods and was going to start the main chassis and have come across the 3 X's etched on the inside of each side of the chassis. Anybody know what they are for. Thinking of going for full suspension already have the Gibson horn blocks wheels etc. Just needs motor and gearbox.

 

Has for the body that will be taken apart and soldered this time.

[farren]

Second tank I have on the bench is a fowler 2-6 -2t I think it's a k's but could be wrong looking a bit worn and is to be fair coming apart by its self. I also managed to pick a chassis wheels horn blocks and other bits for it. What it needs is cylinders and value gear. Motor and gearbox. What would come in handy is dose anyone have a drawing for one.

[Horsetan]

Fowler 3P. The real things famously couldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

 

Cylinders and valve gear might be a problem: coupling rods can be had from AGW, or you can probably adapt some of the Fowler 4P tank valve gear from Comet, remembering that the 3P had single slidebars, not double.

[Weaselfish]

Farren: Alan Gibson do a Fowler 3P kit too. I don't know if yours is the Gibson or K's kit but I'd give Alan Gibson a call to see if they can do you the cylinders and valve gear.

[brossard]

Can I make an observation about springing?  You mention AGW hornblocks.  Now, I have great respect for most things Gibson, but I tried this system some years ago and found the hornblocks a great faff to assemble - being comprised of small parts needing to be soldered together.  Perhaps it was a matter of my skill level not being there at the time.

 

I've been working on a loco (currently on hold for other projects) with the CSB system.  Components for this can be obtained from High Level. http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/

 

I think the system makes more sense. There's a very interesting tutorial here:  http://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=947

 

John 

[farren]

Hi Weaselfish I will give alan a call later in the week to find out about any bits he may be willing to sell thanks. I thought it may be k's as it's white metal and seems to go together the same way as the iron side.

Hi housetan. Yes if what I have read is true none of the LMS'S 2-6-2T's were much cop until Ivatt designed hes. Saying that you have to admit the 2-6-2s are a must have for any layout. I would love a stanier one too. But it's down to needing a drawing. Here's my photo of one.