Peter Kazmierczak Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Just a quickie, Is it easier to ballast the track first, then add point rodding. Or vice versa? Thanks, Peter (Guess what I'm just about to do..... ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merfyn Jones Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 I would go for the rodding first. As somebody who is in the process of doing it the other way at the moment. And have done it on the full size where the balast is a real pain, falling in the holes as soon as you dig them. Good luck with it. Merf. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 I'd ballast first, but keep undertrack lateral rod trenches clear. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 The layout I'm working on now will have my first ever attempt at rodding, so I hope I'm doing it the right way. I did think about it briefly and concluded that it should definitely be ballast first. The thought of trying to lay ballast and an ash cess around all those stools and beneath the rodding, keeping it clear of the cranks, ensuring that none of the glue bridged the gaps, and I didn't end up with little bits of ballast jammed in all manner of places where they shouldn't be, etc. put me off any thought of doing it the other way. By comparison, i hope that drilling holes in the solidified ballast, unlike the real thing, will be quite straightforward. Of course, I could be wrong... Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 Chopping out apertures in Woodlands Scenics ballast (on cork, 'natch) for stools etc is easy. Chopping out granite ballast is not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ballroomjaffa Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Personally, i would add the stools and crank bases first, then put the ballast down, and then put the rodding/cranks etc on once happy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 12, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 12, 2012 I if the point rodding is working you would have to ballast first due to the risk of gumming it up even if non working you would probably still have problems with the ballast gumming it up and spoiling the appearance. The fly in the ointment would be that you could not then spray paint the rodding. I have had no problem drilling holes though ballast ( to fit extra wires for DCC) but I do use and old drill as it probably doesn't do the drill much good. The ballast might make the drill wander a little probably easier to make the hole oversize then use some suitable filler. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Just a quickie, Is it easier to ballast the track first, then add point rodding. Or vice versa? Thanks, Peter (Guess what I'm just about to do..... ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 The last time I did it the rodding went in first. I then walked alongside the autoballaster and made sure the crew didn't drop ballast in the bays where I had rods or wires. That was 12 inch to the foot scale though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted November 15, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 15, 2012 Just had a look through the new 2mm SA Track Book there is a section on modelling point rodding but it doesn't mention as to fixing it before or after ballasting so far as I can see. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Gwiwer Posted November 15, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 15, 2012 I'd fix the fixed bits (stools and the like) first, ballast up and then do the wires and rods. Other options mean you have to undo work one way or another. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted November 17, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 17, 2012 When I built Bleakhouse Road, I ballasted first and added the rodding afterwards. It became a labour of love, as cutting the ballast out to get the stools level was a real pain. Now with Callow Lane, I've put the whole rodding run in first, and ballasted afterwards. It was much easier this way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pointstaken Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Only a possible suggestion, but what about using cardboard templates for points where only the areas where you want ballast are cut out. The areas where you don't want ballast not cut out. Is this a feasible proposition, so you can lift the cardboard templates and tip off the surplus ballast ? Dennis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Kazmierczak Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Thanks everyone. Think I'll fit the stools, then ballast, then attach the rodding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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