Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Anybody for tea? Sorry teak, post war, weathered.

What beautifully-subtle work, Andrew. My compliments indeed.

 

I'm sure someone else must have asked this, but have you described the methods you use? If not, you should do. You have Derek to take pictures; surely a magazine would be interested. 

[jwealleans]

I believe an article is on the way in BRM? I'm also very keen to find out how that teak effect is done. It's lovely.

[t-b-g]

Here are a couple of recent RTR engines that I've 'weathered' (if that's the right word in the circumstances) to represent clean engines in traffic:

 

P1000912.jpg

 

P1010403.jpg

 

Johnson's Klear was involved, but air brushes weren't.

 

I've sometimes tried to represent the sooty line along the top of the boiler (not on these locos) by dry brushing dark grey / black matt enamel along the top of the boiler, but it's always turned out glossy - I must have been doing something wrong!

 

Lovely weathering. The variation, not only in that actual colour but in the level of gloss/matt, really lifts those to a very high level indeed.

 

I am not familiar with the layout and if it is on RMWeb or has been published I apologise for not spotting it but it just reminds me of some of my dad's old photos of Nottingham Victoria.

Edited January 15, 2016 by t-b-g

[31A]

Lovely weathering. The variation, not only in that actual colour but in the level of gloss/matt, really lifts those to a very high level indeed.

 

I am not familiar with the layout and if it is on RMWeb or has been published I apologise for not spotting it but it just reminds me of some of my dad's old photos of Nottingham Victoria.

 

Hi t-b-g, thanks for your kind comments!  I have posted some stuff on RMweb about my layout, but not much recently I'm afraid - most of what I've written is on here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/83030-train-spotting-at-finsbury-square/

 

Not very much has happened recently (and at present the layout is unworkable, due to the room being filled with even more junk than usual as a result of work going on elsewhere in the house), but as you can see some people have been kind enough to request an update, so as soon as I'm able I'll put some more pictures up.

 

Nottingham Victoria is one of the places that sort of influenced me, together with Farringdon, Leeds Central, Borchester and Minories in no particular order!

[Tony Wright]

Some wonderful examples of weathering - my compliments to all. 

 

Just a few more shots to keep the weathering pot boiling..................................

 

 

Not all earlier diesels were filthy, as shown by this shot of freshly painted DRUID taking a Down freight by the side of the Teign in 1965. 

 

 

Much less-dirty than D1005, WESTERN MUSKETEER leaves Exeter in the summer of 1965. It's actually in blue, but not the later standard hue. Note the very clean Thompson TK as the first car in the train.

 

 

I'm not sure how I'd weather diesels successfully. Proprietary weathering is no more than dirty thinners and some of the bespoke services are too uniform in my view. Anyone with any ideas for reproducing something like this? Cleanish, but dirty in places. 

 

 

Clean, but patches of dirt/staining are evident.

 

 

There's a uniformity about the weathering on all these Type 1s, but also loads of subtle differences. 

 

 

Dirty loco but clean train, including, even as late as 1965, a Thompson TK in front-line service. 

 

 

Is this the ultimate weathering situation? An SR 4-6-0's tender side at Barry in 1977. How many SR brandings can you count and how many BR devices? Has anyone tackled this in model form. 

 

 

Weathering buildings calls for just as much care. Tuxford GNR box, just taken out of use in January 1975. 

 

 

 

A couple more weathered model B1s. This time I did these, with dry-brushing. The first is an older Bachmann body on a Comet chassis and the second a newer Bachmann loco. Dry-brushing on the tender sides gives the impression of lime-stained streaks. 

[31A]

Since Tony has put such a lovely picture of a Baby Deltic up, here's a couple of my efforts at weathering Diesels.

 

Photographs of the real thing from the early '60's seem to show they were often quite clean at that time; whether there was an effort to keep them so, or maybe it was just because they were new, I don't know, but I've tried to reflect that kind of condition on these models.

 

Consequently, I've concentrated on the underframes, and traces of exhaust soot on the roofs.  Looking at that picture of the Baby Deltic, I may have overdone it slightly on the body sides!  I do have another which I re-numbered and hence had to varnish to seal the transfers, which perhaps comes closer to the condition Tony mentions, but I'm not really able to photograph it at the moment.  I don't have an air brush, so perhaps my models don't tend to have the 'uniform' appearance that Tony mentions, but I do try and concentrate on areas where there would be track and brake block dust, and oil leaks.

 

One thing I do find difficult is to avoid obvious brush streaks in the exhaust stains on the roofs; perhaps this is an area where an air brush would do better, or maybe an aerosol sprayed through a mask.

 

 

[jwealleans]

obvious brush streaks in the exhaust stains on the roofs

Do you use paint or powder, Steve? I apply powder using a large brush from a makeup set i bought in Boots. It doesn't readily streak, in fact I often have to work the powder with a smaller brush if I do want a streaky effect. I know Tom F has a similar set (in a very fetching leopardskin case, as I recall) which he certainly used to use.

 

Edit - slapped legs, it's not pink.

Edited January 15, 2016 by jwealleans

[westerner]

Lovely work Alan,

 

Please tell me, is this the one which was soundly thrashed by an A4 when we raced them on LB?

Yes it was Tony. Obviously Heljan got its gearing right!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Willie Whizz]

Some wonderful examples of weathering - my compliments to all. 

 

Just a few more shots to keep the weathering pot boiling..................................

 

 

 

Southern tender small.jpg

 

Is this the ultimate weathering situation? An SR 4-6-0's tender side at Barry in 1977. How many SR brandings can you count and how many BR devices? Has anyone tackled this in model form. 

 

...

I must admit that when someone posted that much-derided picture on here a few days back of a semi-derelict V2 that was being offered for sale on e-Bay, my thought was that this as in the 'Southern' picture may well have been the effect that modeller was trying for - in which case maybe we should have been kinder; he  might have been 'having a go' at something few others have attempted ...

 

 

Though a shockingly-poor shot (what do you expect from an 11-year old and a Brownie 127?) this picture of WOLF OF BADENOCH does show the habit of occasionally just cleaning the cabside numbers.

 

Yup, that's exactly how I remember my one and only sighting of a pacific in actual service (see my post on here 4th December). If I ever manage to buy (or even  build) one I want it exactly like this!

 

WW

Edited January 15, 2016 by Willie Whizz

[Headstock]

Some rather nice architectural weathering (and prototype scratch building) from Leicester South.  Photographs courtesy of Derek Shore.            

 

Barry Spink's ex GC warehouse. The LNER legend wasn't painted out until after 1957.                                                                                                 Derek Shore's model of south box. The white washed windows are a nice bit of detail.                                                                                                                                                                                                        

                                                                                                                                                                                              

[31A]

Do you use paint or powder, Steve? I apply powder using a large brush from a makeup set i bought in Boots. It doesn't readily streak, in fact I often have to work the powder with a smaller brush if I do want a streaky effect. I know Tom F has a similar set (in a very fetching pink case, as I recall) which he certainly used to use.

 

Paint, Jonathan - I'm a bit dyed in the wool really, I'm afraid!  I was thinking of using powders but am not sure how permanent they'd be and whether they'd stand up to handling, dusting etc.  The roofs of RTR Diesels usually tend to be a bit glossy as they come out of the box, and I wonder how well powders would adhere?  With the Brush 2 in the picture, initially I was unhappy with the results and went back a lot later (the next day I think), and took most of it off, and the result is now quite good, I think.

 

In the absence of an air brush, I use really soft brushes - I got some from The Works once described as camel hair which work well - and to avoid streaks it's almost like a dry brushing process but over the flat surfaces, rather than using the process to highlight detail as people usually do, until I'm happy with the level of dirt build up.

[coachmann]

In the words of a particular singer, 'There ain't half been some clever bar stuards..'  Steve's top picture in post 8295 had me guessing... The whole scene including the Peco track looks so realistic. Then Andrew's warehouse in post 8299 is absolutely the last word in the treatment of painted on legends. I wish we could see a lot more work like this in layout threads, then there would be more reasons to visit this place.

Edited January 15, 2016 by coachmann

[t-b-g]

In the words of a particular singer, 'There ain't half been some clever bar stuards..'  Steve's top picture in post 8295 had me guessing... The whole scene including the Peco track looks so realistic. Then Andrew's warehouse in post 8299 is absolutely the last word in the treatment of painted on legends. I wish we could see a lot more work like this in layout threads, then there would be more reasons to visit this place.

 

There isn't a button for "couldn't agree more" so I am writing it instead.

 

Some threads seem to have lots of people telling us how we should build models and then you get some where folk actually show what they have done. I know which I prefer.

 

Some lovely work has appeared on here.

 

Tony G

[jwealleans]

I use powders over paint, generally. MIG powders stick like sh1t to a blanket and although they do wear off with handling (at least, they get on your fingers) that tends to be in places where the real thing would be rubbed anyway. So in effect it carries on the weathering process.

 

Personal opinion but I think it's the best way to represent sooty and dusty buildup on vehicles.

 

This is quite an old effort now, but it shows the texture you end up with:

 

Edited October 26, 2018 by jwealleans

[Tony Wright]

I'm afraid I'm dropping back into teacher mode.....................

 

Abstracting anything I've done, I think the modelling illustrated on the last few pages (avoiding any mention of cricket) is some of the best, most natural and realistic I've seen in a long time. It's all the more creditable because the contributors are illustrating all their own work or the work of their colleagues. All have been having a go and producing the sort of results I'd like to achieve, if only my aim were good enough.

 

If nothing else, it proves that, done properly, RTR-based modelling can be just as creditable as that arrived at from kits or scratch; especially as it's the contributors' own work. I have to get along with help! 

 

You can all go to the top of the class. 

[Tony Wright]

There isn't a button for "couldn't agree more" so I am writing it instead.

 

Some threads seem to have lots of people telling us how we should build models and then you get some where folk actually show what they have done. I know which I prefer.

 

Some lovely work has appeared on here.

 

Tony G

I'd like a couldn't agree (even) more button!

 

With regard to threads showing how models are built, I think it's fine if the account shows 'a' way or 'their' way of making things. It's where the process becomes overly didactic or even dictatorial in it's chosen way where I take issue. 

 

Isn't it good, as well, how folk are showing off (not in a showing off style) what they've made/modified/altered/weathered themselves? There really is a rich seam of talent out there. That said, I'd be horrified if the less-experienced/beginners were put off from showing what they've done. 

[johndon]

I'd class myself as a relative beginner and I've not, as yet, plucked up the courage to weather a locomotive yet but, as I'm modelling the North East in the 70s/very early 80s there's lots of scope for filth.  Here are a couple of photos of wagons that I've just finished which are not only my first real attempt at weathering (oils for the wagon bodies and pastel chalk for the underframes), but the first couple of them come from kits as well so they are, and always will be unique to me which, as Tony has alluded to in this thread gives a great deal of satisfaction...

 

 

 

 

John

Edited January 15, 2016 by johndon

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

ah, weathering.... finally I can add something of my own to this thread.  These are RTR but very much personalised, I hope that passes muster!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[coachmann]

I know the word 'amazing' has been overdone on social media but I can only say, amazing work John (post 8306). Wagon B419892K does it for me, but they have all made me question why I haven't done something to my own wagons!

Edited January 15, 2016 by coachmann

[jwealleans]

Tony, going back to your Barry shot of the multiple layers of lettering appearing on the one tender side. I don't know whether you're familiar with Adrian Marks - occasionally of this parish as 'Buckjumper' - but he had a go at recreating that effect on a J68 (8639). It wasn't a great success as I recall and his gallery photos of that loco don't really show it, so I suspect he may have given it up.

 

His work can be found here. I've always especially liked this carriage - I had it as my wallpaper for a while and looking at Adrian's site I see Larry has indicated his appreciation as well.

[Mallard60022]

I'd class myself as a relative beginner and I've not, as yet, plucked up the courage to weather a locomotive yet but, as I'm modelling the North East in the 70s/very early 80s there's lots of scope for filth.  Here are a couple of photos of wagons that I've just finished which are not only my first real attempt at weathering (oils for the wagon bodies and pastel chalk for the underframes), but the first couple of them come from kits as well so they are, and always will be unique to me which, as Tony has alluded to in this thread gives a great deal of satisfaction...

 

 

 

 

John

Easily the best Hopper weathering I have seen.

Phil

[ArthurK]

Of course if you are feeling lazy you can always use this as an excuse!

 

If I recall correctly there were three in this condition, Winlaton mill Coke Ovens. Mid 1960s.

 

 

 

ArthurK

 

Edited January 15, 2016 by ArthurK

[Porcy Mane]

Crikey Arthur. That place is a football pitch now.

 

Looks like there was plenty bottles of Clear sloshed over those wagons before they transferred them up.

 

P

[ArthurK]

Crikey Arthur. That place is a football pitch now.

 

Looks like there was plenty bottles of Clear sloshed over those wagons before they transferred them up.

 

P

 

Porcy 

 

It may be a football field now but this is how it was in 1963. In a direct line my home was about a half mile from here.

 

Your photo show just how unrepresentative ex-works wagons are and therefore unreal on layouts if too many. I suppose younger folk are far more used to seeing clean wagons due to their appearance on preserved lines.

 

Coachman

No one is suggesting that an entire train should be made up of wagons in such pristine condition but it would not be un-prototypical to include three (possibly more) such wagons. The other wagons in the train were in the usual distressed condition (as most then were).

 

ArthurK

Edited January 15, 2016 by ArthurK

[Barry O]

O gauge Heljan Western

 

 

and it takes a bit of confidence to start weathering professionally built and painted locomotives and stock.. which is why I use ink as my bas coat as it will come off with a lot of elbow grease rather than having to pay to get it repainted. Which is another reason why I don't use Klear unless it is on something for me - and then only sparingly as it may discolour over time.

 

I did try using weathering powders directly on a Lima Class 40 - it did work for a while but i have since revisited it with more ink and powders. 

 

Really how you weather and what you weather with has to be a personal preference - I have used dry brushing on some of my locos but now prefer inks as a base coat.

Edited January 15, 2016 by Barry O