Wright writes.....

[glo41f]

Chaps

 

Things seem to be getting heated here of late. We are here to share our love of well made models especially if they are of East Coast provenance. There is no  body better at this in my view than Barrie Walls and here is a picture from his layout showing several locos all in 7mm and all of them made by him from scratch materials (Cast iron wheels so no problems there either)

 

 

The picture is of the approach to Leasham Cross looking over the loco depot where a variety of types are on shed. There are not many 0 scale layouts that can accommodate the mighty pacifics without looking cramped.  It just goes to show that east coast types do it with style!

 

Martin Long

[polybear]

Polybear

Re storing digital BRMs.

 

If you have an I-pad type device then the editions store on that and can be accessed anywhere, anytime.  The embedded DVDs however need a wifi connection.

 

Like you I am having storage issues and the cost of a paper subscription overseas is prohibitive.

Many thanks - any ideas regarding Laptops etc. - can I save to Hard Drive/DVD etc. please?

 

Many thanks

Brian

[gr.king]

 The one thing I would add to Graeme's comment is that the modern "acrylic" aerosols also have reasonably aggressive solvents in them and can, given a heavy handed approach, lift transfers/decals and enamel paints.

 

Cheers....Morgan

 

I'm glad I'm not the only one to understand that not all acrylics are the same, safe, water based stuff that many modellers use for brush or airbrush application. The acrylic paint in car aerosols can have a pretty aggressive effect on certain pre-painted surfaces if you apply too much of it, too quickly.

 

Fortunately, although the effect is nowhere near as delicate as airbrushing, even a standard aerosol without a fancy trigger handle applied to it can be used in a suitably delicate way to "mist" the paint on rather than to blast it on....

[Focalplane]

When I was young (!) I used to visit my father's metal finishing business on a very regular basis.  After he died in 1956 my mother worked part time there so I spent many school holidays in the "works" environment.  Metal finishing included plating, annodizing and spraying.  The spray shop consisted of about eight spray booths and a baking oven.  The most common sight was to see trays of Anglepoise lamp shades passing through the ovens.  As I was not yet a teenager I really couldn't say anything about the formulation of the paints, but the atmosphere was certainly heavy, though not as dangerous as in the plating shop where heavy rubber aprons were de rigeur.

 

Later on the spray shop entered a more modern era with electrostatic machines that allowed an even coat to be applied to complex shapes - perfect for model steam locomotives I would imagine.  Lacquer was often applied to objects by dipping and withdrawing the object slowly out of the vat of lacquer.  Parts for Remington typewriters were one item I remember - the job involved hundreds of thousands of parts, I wonder where they all are now!

 

The one thing I remember learning from the spray shop foreman was to always begin spraying with the gun off to the side and not let go of the trigger until the gun had moved away from the item.  the turntable was, of course, a most important accessory and the key was, I believe, to rotate it at the right speed and not allow the spray gun to dwell too long.  All these points are probably as relevant to aerosol spraying, perhaps even more so.

 

I never went into the business so the above comments are not be be taken as professional or expert comments.  Just happy memories.

[Andy Hayter]

Polybear

 

It never used to be possible on a desk/lap top, but they promised they were looking at it.

 

They now have a new app for W8, which I have just now downloaded to W10.  I am not sure if this gives the same functionality as the Apple application.  I will let you know when I have downloaded an edition and turned of the router.

 

Just a warning. Downloads are relatively slow and could take as long as 30 minutes if you don't have a high speed connection.  Not a problem for me I just set it off and go away and do some modelling - provided the domestic authorities don't have a better use of my time! 

 

Edited to add:

One thing I had forgotten until now reusing the laptop.  resolution on a laptop is relatively poor.  You get 2 pages load onto the screen at once.  For me this makes the script difficult to read.  You can zoom in and the script is perfect, but you then spend lots of time with the tool bars moving the image around on the screen.  With the ipad in portrait you get one page to a screen and all very readable.

Edited February 21, 2016 by Andy Hayter

[Barry Ten]

A million miles away from wheels and paints, here's what I built this afternoon. I needed an occupation bridge to cross a set of tracks, leading from one part of a farm to another, so after looking at some typical examples I cooked up this freelance structure from card and Superquick papers. It's hardly state of the art modelling, but there's something very enjoyable about using these "traditional" materials - and it's quick, too. Anyway, it makes a change from soldering and lining coaches.

 

 

Apologies for the harsh flash - it's quite dim in our living room. 

 

Alastair

[Spannerman]

Hi all this talk of paints has me worried. Following the build article in BRM and seeing some of the excellent models in this thread, I finally took the plunge and am about to attempt my first kit, an SR booster/ class 70.

Now I understand this resin kit on a rtr chassis is possibly a bit low brow in comparison to the excellence demonstrated regularly here, but could you please advise which types of paints, cleaners etc.would be safe touse on such a kit.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice given.

 

Atb

 

Nik

Edited February 22, 2016 by Spannerman

[Andy Hayter]

Just gone through all the steps and downloaded BRM March onto the laptop and it is now there as a permanent copy.   The download was actually quicker than normal, so that might be a benefit to some. 

Edited February 21, 2016 by Andy Hayter

[Tony Wright]

Hi all this talk of paints has me worried. Following the build article in BRM and seeing some of the excellent models in this thread. I finally took the plunge and am about to attempt my first kit, an SR booster/ class 70.

Now I understand this resin kit on a rtr chassis is possibly a bit low brow in comparison to the excellence demonstrated regularly here, but could you please advise which types of paints, cleaners etc.would be safe touse on such a kit.

 

Thanks in advance for any advice given.

 

Atb

 

Nik

Why should attempting your first kit be considered 'low brow' by anyone, or in comparison with other modelling on this thread? You're having a go, I imagine you're not a cheque book modeller and (if I may be so bold), it won't be the last thing you make for yourself. 

 

Advice on what paint to use on a resin kit? I've not painted many (no more than half a dozen) and I used car aerosol acrylic primer as a base. If nothing else it showed how much the resin surface needed filling (on the A1/1 and B12/3). It seemed to work, but some areas didn't dry in a uniform fashion. Not only that, after a time, some of the paint came off. I was told that part of the problem could be the releasing agent, or even materials in the resin leaching out. I don't know, and I've not been a fan of resin since (although Graeme King's resin V2 body painted up perfectly). What Id also advise is a most thorough scrubbing of the finished model beforehand, and leaving it plenty of time to dry. 

[Andy Hayter]

#9017 applies plus follow ups, but yes some modelling is more appropriate.

[Tony Wright]

Chaps

 

Things seem to be getting heated here of late. We are here to share our love of well made models especially if they are of East Coast provenance. There is no  body better at this in my view than Barrie Walls and here is a picture from his layout showing several locos all in 7mm and all of them made by him from scratch materials (Cast iron wheels so no problems there either)

 

Wallsea pictures 003.jpg

 

The picture is of the approach to Leasham Cross looking over the loco depot where a variety of types are on shed. There are not many 0 scale layouts that can accommodate the mighty pacifics without looking cramped.  It just goes to show that east coast types do it with style!

 

Martin Long

I couldn't agree more Martin.

 

Barrie Walls is one of the finest loco builders in the country, as I hope the following pictures show. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[coachmann]

If we all agree that RTR models are plastic, then there are re-sprayes a plenty on my two threads ~ all done with cellulose. The more up to date plastic kits that I have built since 2006 seem to be of a material akin to plastikard. I painted all David Jenkinson plastikard coaches from the mid 1970's and cellulose did not affect it.

 

At one time the RTR companies used a different plastic....It was affected by cellulose. Today there is Halfords 'Plastic Primer' in aerosols to act as a barrier. Ratio kits probably still use the old plastic and I dont know if plastic primer affects the old type of plastic. As an aside, I use the plastic primer on most plastic models when I want to kill old colours and start with a neutral base before adding colour.

 

Finally, I have to assume folk do not have spray equipment. While I spray the plastic primer on straight from an aerosol wafting it on lightly left-to-right. Built light coats up in layers instead of trying to cover in one go. However, I do not recommend spraying plastic models with car colours from aerosols. It is tempting providence when paint can so easily be flooded on. I spray such cans into my gun beforehand (I use matt black for convenience sometimes).

Edited February 21, 2016 by coachmann

[Spannerman]

Thanks for the reply coachmann, the BRM article suggests using Halfords spray and giving the model a good scrub with washing up liquid.

 

Hopefully Halfords do a suitable match for SR coaching stock green

 

Thanks

 

Nik

[46256]

This is why I look forward to reading this thread....inspiration, support and sound advice gained through experience...thank you all

[gr.king]

 I do not recommend spraying plastic models with car colours from aerosols. It is tempting providence when paint can so easily be flooded on.

 

I'm sure that is the safest advice.

 

I don't always stick to that, and with care I usually get away with it, but I realise that I go off-piste at my own risk.

[Poggy1165]

A million miles away from wheels and paints, here's what I built this afternoon. I needed an occupation bridge to cross a set of tracks, leading from one part of a farm to another, so after looking at some typical examples I cooked up this freelance structure from card and Superquick papers. It's hardly state of the art modelling, but there's something very enjoyable about using these "traditional" materials - and it's quick, too. Anyway, it makes a change from soldering and lining coaches.

 

occupation.jpg

 

Apologies for the harsh flash - it's quite dim in our living room. 

 

Alastair

 

I like that model. Not everything has to be 'state-of-the-art' to be effective. Life is too short.

[Tony Wright]

If we all agree that RTR models are plastic, then there are re-sprayes a plenty on my two threads ~ all done with cellulose. The more up to date plastic kits that I have built since 2006 seem to be of a material akin to plastikard. I painted all David Jenkinson plastikard coaches from the mid 1970's and cellulose did not affect it.

 

At one time the RTR companies used a different plastic....It was affected by cellulose. Today there is Halfords 'Plastic Primer' in aerosols to act as a barrier. Ratio kits probably still use the old plastic and I dont know if plastic primer affects the old type of plastic. As an aside, I use the plastic primer on most plastic models when I want to kill old colours and start with a neutral base before adding colour.

 

Finally, I have to assume folk do not have spray equipment. While I spray the plastic primer on straight from an aerosol wafting it on lightly left-to-right. Built light coats up in layers instead of trying to cover in one go. However, I do not recommend spraying plastic models with car colours from aerosols. It is tempting providence when paint can so easily be flooded on. I spray such cans into my gun beforehand (I use matt black for convenience sometimes).

Wise words, Larry.

 

I'm one of those who doesn't have spray equipment. Why? If I want a loco painted to top standards, it goes to a professional painter. However, where complex liveries/lining/lettering, etc are not present, I'm quite happy to paint my own locos and carriages using car aerosols straight from the can. I understand your not recommending the practice because of the danger of flooding the model with paint, but, as long as care is taken, reasonable results can be achieved in my view.

 

My apologies if some of these images have been seen before.

 

 

I always spray outside, so that does limit the times one can paint. However, even in cooler periods, as long as the day is dry and there is little wind, success can be achieved. I realise this hostage to fortune situation with regard to the weather isn't possible for a full-time painter, but I'm not that. The expanding gadget is ideal for holding the work and it doesn't always mean that one paints wrists and hands. I warm both the work and the paint beforehand using a hair dryer, and once the paint is on I pass the hair dryer over it.

 

 

These were two Hornby/Trice conversions I did for Gilbert Barnatt, top-coat painted with Halfords acrylic Burgundy Red (usually four thin coats). There is a slight orange peel overspray on the roof, but that works well once the roof is painted matt grey. It looks like canvas.

 

 

 

This is a conversion I did for myself, a Hornby/Trice Gresley BG, coupled next to the Hornby equivalent. I think the car paint gives a more realistic finish than the matt plastic.

 

 

 

As layout carriages these car-painted vehicles look all right to me, especially after, as on this RF (another of my conversions), some slight weathering has been applied. 

 

For both carriages and locos I use red primer. For black locos, I then spray Halford's Satin Black, using at least three coats.

 

 

 

In my view it gives a most-suitable finish for applying transfers before any weathering is attempted, as on this 2P tender and cab. 

 

 

Or on this C12 I built for Grantham.

 

 

Or on this C12 I built for Ian Wilson. This was later weathered by Tom Foster. 

 

I realise some of my painting methods must 'offend' the experts (just watch the DVD I did with Ian Rathbone!), but they work for me, and, on layout vehicles (not glass-case models) they suit me fine.

[LNER4479]

Hornby Gresley coach conversion 45.jpg

 

I always spray outside, so that does limit the times one can paint. However, even in cooler periods, as long as the day is dry and there is little wind, success can be achieved. I realise this hostage to fortune situation with regard to the weather isn't possible for a full-time painter, but I'm not that. The expanding gadget is ideal for holding the work and it doesn't always mean that one paints wrists and hands. I warm both the work and the paint beforehand using a hair dryer, and once the paint is on I pass the hair dryer over it.

 

Nice watch you're wearing there, Tony

[phixer64]

Having been a longtime lurker on this thread. One thing that comes to mind, is the level of ingenuity, not, only on modelling, painting and scenics.
one, I've taken (should i say nicked), is your clever way you have coupled your coaches.

 

I firmly believe "us railway modellers" have all the various skills. Some not quite up to standards as others, nether the less, we all strive to seek in perfection in our own eyes.

 

I recently saw you at the Southampton show, and with a friend was totally amazed with the work on show you had.

 

My kind regards Tony, and to all who have contributed in this thread, and hopefully, more creativeness can be learned from these very growing comments and pictures.

 

Regards Jeff

[glo41f]

Tony

 

Thank you for the pictures of Barrie's locos.Miles better than my snaps though I do have a number of them taken over the years and can put more on here if folk are interested enough.. Barrie was a 4mm modeller until the 70's when he had a go at building 31/2 gauge live steam. (It was a Thompson Loco an A2). Then he went to 0 scale and the rest is history. He is one of the most prolific modellers in the country. As well as scratch building over 100 locomotives, he has built over 100 coaches and nearly 200 wagons (though some of these are from kits). All the trackwork and infrastructure to the line he has made too including the wiring and control systems. Such dedication is totally admirable and something I cannot hope to emulate as I do not have a clue about electrics!

Truly one of our modelling "greats" though he would never admit this.

 

Martin Long

[t-b-g]

I had the pleasure of visiting Barrie a few years ago with a bunch of friends. His railway is just lovely and we had a great afternoon looking around, admiring the huge loco roster and seeing them working on what is a "proper" operators layout..

 

Lovely stuff indeed.

 

Many thanks for posting the photos.

 

Tony G

[t-b-g]

Wise words, Larry.

 

I'm one of those who doesn't have spray equipment. Why? If I want a loco painted to top standards, it goes to a professional painter. However, where complex liveries/lining/lettering, etc are not present, I'm quite happy to paint my own locos and carriages using car aerosols straight from the can. I understand your not recommending the practice because of the danger of flooding the model with paint, but, as long as care is taken, reasonable results can be achieved in my view.

 

My apologies if some of these images have been seen before.

 

Hornby Gresley coach conversion 45.jpg

 

I always spray outside, so that does limit the times one can paint. However, even in cooler periods, as long as the day is dry and there is little wind, success can be achieved. I realise this hostage to fortune situation with regard to the weather isn't possible for a full-time painter, but I'm not that. The expanding gadget is ideal for holding the work and it doesn't always mean that one paints wrists and hands. I warm both the work and the paint beforehand using a hair dryer, and once the paint is on I pass the hair dryer over it.

 

Hornby Gresley coach conversion 46.jpg

 

These were two Hornby/Trice conversions I did for Gilbert Barnatt, top-coat painted with Halfords acrylic Burgundy Red (usually four thin coats). There is a slight orange peel overspray on the roof, but that works well once the roof is painted matt grey. It looks like canvas.

 

Hornby Gresley coach conversion 59.jpg

 

Hornby Gresley coach conversion 60.jpg

 

This is a conversion I did for myself, a Hornby/Trice Gresley BG, coupled next to the Hornby equivalent. I think the car paint gives a more realistic finish than the matt plastic.

 

Hornby Gresley coach conversion 78.jpg

 

As layout carriages these car-painted vehicles look all right to me, especially after, as on this RF (another of my conversions), some slight weathering has been applied. 

 

For both carriages and locos I use red primer. For black locos, I then spray Halford's Satin Black, using at least three coats.

 

Millholme 2P 31.jpg

 

In my view it gives a most-suitable finish for applying transfers before any weathering is attempted, as on this 2P tender and cab. 

 

C12 30 painted on Little Bytham.jpg

 

Or on this C12 I built for Grantham.

 

C12 67376 Craftsman kit.jpg

 

Or on this C12 I built for Ian Wilson. This was later weathered by Tom Foster. 

 

I realise some of my painting methods must 'offend' the experts (just watch the DVD I did with Ian Rathbone!), but they work for me, and, on layout vehicles (not glass-case models) they suit me fine.

 

I am with you Tony. Many of my locos and carriages (especially Midland/LMS types plus anything black) have been painted with a car spray. Good old Damask Red!

 

As we have already established, a bit of experience and developing a technique can allow those of us who don't do such things all the time to get reasonable results that may not satisfy those seeking to attain the absolute highest standards possible but are perfectly acceptable for normal layout use.

 

Once I learned just how to hold and use a spray can, it is rare for me to make a total mess of things and if I do it can always all come off for a second try.

 

I am not sure that the modeller who never makes a mistake has been born yet. As Roy Jackson says, everybody makes mistakes, it is how much work you are willing to put in to sort them out that separates the good modellers from the rest. 

 

I know that my painting and lining skills could be improved and I am sure that they could if I did it more but I tend to be, as Peter Denny described himslef, a "Jack of all Trades, Master of None". I get by with most things but in each area of modelling, I know there are specialists who can do a better job than I can. It worries me not a jot.

 

What will be interesting is to see how I get on with a full GCR pre-grouping livery in 7mm scale. I am looking forward to it and feeling trepidation in equal measure. If I can do a decent job with it perhaps I will consider myself to have reached the level I always hoped I would. If not, it might end up LNER black! Either way, it will be my own work. 

[Focalplane]

We went up to "town" today (Birmingham, in case you were wondering!) and first stop was the Ian Allan Book and Model Shop near the latest re-incarnation of New Street Station.  I bought two books and a can of matt black spray paint.  The reason for posting this here is that one of the books is Ian Sixsmith's tome on the Ivatt 4MT mogul.

 

The reason for the purchase is that later this year I am going to tackle Modern Outline Kits' Gauge O version of this "Mucky Duck/Flying Pig" post war design.  This will be the most complicated kit I will have started and I intend to make a go of it.  David Sharp of MOK was the person kind enough to send me four PDF files of instructions and I have decided, on the strength of them, that I may be able to do a reasonably good job.

 

The 4MTs were, as Tony knows only too well, the post war work horse of the M&GNR.  My prototype will be from closer to home, one of the several long term Saltley based locos, most likely 43017 with single chimney.

 

The nicknames given to Ivatt's design are far from complimentary, but I like the design because it reminds me of so many North American steam locomotives I saw, still in action on preserved railways.  There is no doubt that Ivatt may have been the first British loco designer to actually think of the many employees who had to service steam locos, and how difficult their jobs could be.  Or were there others?

 

While at Ian Allan's, a bookseller helped to source another book I was searching for and wrote down the details for me to follow up.  This attention to the customer's needs should not go without retelling and I hope that readers of this post will remember the bookshop when in Brum.  They also sell models as well (but no Gauge O).

 

On my second visit to the new New Street I was more impressed than the first "post-Christmas Sales" adventure when the crowds were very much all that could be seen.  But our local commuter trains terminate in Moor Street, which is the exact opposite, a restored 1908 terminus complete with a small refreshment lounge that serves traditional afternoon tea (it looked delicious) with GWR style porcelain.  The contrast between the two stations could not be greater.

[Headstock]

Morning all,

 

this is a repaint of a Hornby BG mounted on a Kirk underframe. A combination of brush painted and airbrushed enamels were used to lose the Hornby maroon. The underfame details and bogies are MJT, with Gibson wheels, (both sides) the gangways came from the comet range. The Hornby underframe was dismantled, and the parts were then reused on other projects. The bogies in particular have been employed more appropriately under a passenger carriage.

 

[jwealleans]

I hope you'll forgive the indulgence, but here is another Gresley BG, this one cut down from a Kirk kit as a diagram built onto recyled ECJS underframes.

 

 

I wondered after I'd done it whether it looked sufficiently different to be worth the effort, but comparing to Andrew's above I think it is.

Edited October 15, 2018 by jwealleans