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Looking the business. Is the camera playing up and making the green almost emerald in colour?

Nope! it must be the Brazilian sun!! Actually it is probably the florescent lighting!! It is Precision GWR green but will look better once the black varnish is applied.

Sandy

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That's what I assume it to be. It's a very intense light. Even at summer and winter equinoxes it is still hard to get a good picture. Well of trains anyway. I have found it best early or late in the day with the sun low even then you only get about 30 minutes.

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Black varnish?

David, this is my secret brew so please keep it to yourself! I add a 'dollop' of black paint to my varnish mix which has the effect of reducing all the different colour intensities, of the model paintwork and transfers, to one overall light weathering effect. I noticed, when visiting preserved railways, that even a highly polished engine, once it is in steam, will have a very fine layer of soot all over the paintwork. I'm not an advocate of heavy weathering.

Regards

Sandy

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David, this is my secret brew so please keep it to yourself! I add a 'dollop' of black paint to my varnish mix which has the effect of reducing all the different colour intensities, of the model paintwork and transfers, to one overall light weathering effect. I noticed, when visiting preserved railways, that even a highly polished engine, once it is in steam, will have a very fine layer of soot all over the paintwork. I'm not an advocate of heavy weathering.

Regards

Sandy

Sandy,

 

Ahh! Understood. I won't tell a soul!

 

David

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I wasn't in the mood for much complicated modelling today as I was delivering test samples on the blood bike until 2.30am this morning! The blood analyser had gone down at one local hospital and all their samples had to be transported to the other for testing. Feeling a bit knackered, but I did some coaling of the 57xx's bunker and a load for a HR coal wagon. Nothing too taxing!

 

The loco chassis had to be removed as it needed a little 'tweek'. The motor/gearbox was moving slightly when in reverse and causing an uncharacteristic sound!

 

Fitting a DCC chip in this kit , with the resin tank/boiler, was tricky. There was just enough room to attach a TCS1A to the rear of the cannon motor and the front of the loco cab. The only other option would have been inside the coal bunker but that would have needed a 4 pin plug and socket between the body and chassis! Not easy!!

 

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post-7733-0-23723400-1492795875_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

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David, this is my secret brew so please keep it to yourself! I add a 'dollop' of black paint to my varnish mix which has the effect of reducing all the different colour intensities, of the model paintwork and transfers, to one overall light weathering effect. I noticed, when visiting preserved railways, that even a highly polished engine, once it is in steam, will have a very fine layer of soot all over the paintwork. I'm not an advocate of heavy weathering.

Regards

Sandy

If you do nothing further in terms of weathering, adding a little black to the lacquer "tones down " the lining and logo on BR Green locos which look a little garish when first finished. In fact you could add other colours to the lacquer to adjust the hue slightly if you felt the base shade was not quite correct.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

This sorry state of affairs was given to me to turn it into a BR(W) version from a GWR model. Owner thought it would be a tank side transfer replacement! Oh No! It had a crap paint job and there was noway I was even going to attempt a patch paint job so it had to be stripped. Trouble was it had been stuck together with Evo-stick! No chance of a dip in the cellulose thinners then, it all had to be removed by mechanical means.

 

Two dirty days later it got to this stage. This will be followed by a trip to the sandblasters and a sonic bath before throwing some Acid 8 Etch at it.

 

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This is also presently on my work bench, a Cambrian Railways 15ton Brake van although it will be in GWR guise. It is being used as the signature model for a GOG DVD on Brass wagon building and should be available by Guildex.

 

post-7733-0-64746300-1495649674_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

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Glad to hear you're doing another dvd as I enjoyed your split axle one.

Only saddened when your radial chassis stopped as I have one in my todo pile...

Thanks. You'll be fine with the body as long as you make a jig to keep the footplate flat. The rest of the white metal body parts go together well.

Regards

Sandy

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

It has not been painting weather here, so I carried on with another kit in my 'to do' box. A HR Meat Van from Lochgorm kits.

 

Lots of detail needs adding before assembly, vents, hinge strapping, beading etc

 

Here is the story so far. Still lots to do!

 

post-7733-0-63731300-1497254693_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

 

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  • 1 month later...

It has not been painting weather here, so I carried on with another kit in my 'to do' box. A HR Meat Van from Lochgorm kits.

 

Lots of detail needs adding before assembly, vents, hinge strapping, beading etc

 

Here is the story so far. Still lots to do!

 

attachicon.gif103_3827.JPG

 

Sandy

 

And here is the Cambrian 15t Goods brake after it was absorbed into the GWR stock and re-branded in corporate livery. Not sure if any were based in Shrewsbury but its my railway so Shrewsbury it is! Varnishing and glazing to complete.

 

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Another Highland wagon to add to the collection!

 

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HR Meat Van awaiting transfers and varnish.

 

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That's cleared some of the backlog!

 

 

 

Sandy

 

PS Here is the Meat Van with Transfers supplied by the Highland Railway Society.

 

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Edited by Sandy Harper
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  • 2 weeks later...

A speculative bid on Ebay saw me win a Ace Loco kit for an A3 It came with a complete Premier Components chassis and valve gear kit as an extra, so I considered it to be good value.

I don't model the LNER so I am on quite a steep learning curve with this one. The kit was for the loco only so I still have to source a tender for it and I am presently leaning towards the ex GN eight wheeled version but that is a while away yet.

I had originally intended to build the Premier chassis but after putting it together I had a change of mind when I realised the additional work involved in adapting it to fit the Ace body and running gear, so I decided instead to stick with the Ace chassis and see how that went together first. I could always revert later!

I decided to build the chassis with float and springing in the middle driving axle and elongated the bearing holes to suit. The prepared chassis sides, with the front, centre and rear driving bearings still loose, were then set up in the Hobby Holidays Chassis Jig and the spacers and bearings for the two outer axles soldered in. 

The chassis is designed to have the rear extensions tapered and the front part narrowed behind the bogie wheels, as can be seen in the photographs, and they were carefully bent to shape and the narrower spacers for them soldered in. 

I would like to make the valve gear/cylinders and motion brackets detachable in case I decide to revert to the brass chassis, so that will be my next project.

 

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Sandy

Edited by Sandy Harper
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