Sam Moss Posted December 9, 2012 Share Posted December 9, 2012 Hi, Bought an old tender drive City of Nottingham from a toy fair on Friday eve. Its been detailed to a high standard and has been converted to loco drive with a full set of Romford wheels and a single stage gear box driven by a DS10. Whilst it works nicely and has a fair turn of speed its gutless to say the least. It just stalls under heavy loads and just sits there cooking itself. I got it at a good price so am prepared to spend a bit on it to get it to behave how it should to stand up to running on the club layout. Can anyone suggest a replacement motor that has the same fixings but has more torque? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Sam, The DS10 has 10mm mounting screw centres with a 1.5mm shaft. AFAIK there isn't another motor with those dimensions. The Mashima 14xx flat cans have the same screw spacing but may be to wide to go into the locoframes. They also have 2.0mm shafts. You could use a Mashima 1024 (10mm wide, 24mm long, 1.5mm shaft 8.5 mm screw spacing) but that'll need a new etched mount. It'll be much better than the DS10 but is still a small motor. For more power a Mashima 1424 or 1428 (2.0mm shaft and 10mm screw spacing) on a two stage mounting to lift it above the frames (etched 00 frames are usually about 11 -12 mm maximum inside width). However, your converted loco may be somewhat different. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted December 11, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 11, 2012 Sam, this info sheet from Comet might help you decide http://www.cometmodels.co.uk/data/PDF/Motors%20and%20gear%20boxes2.pdf I used a 1024 as a DS10 replacement in my Alexander class 15, but then mountings weren't important as it didn't use them. Good luck Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Going on from what Jol says, if you want it to pull decent sized trains on a club layout, I'd look at a High Level replacement gearbox (HighFlyer springs to mind) which will allow you to put the motor in the boiler, then get the biggest motor you can fit in there and fill the rest with lead. You can download a gearbox planner from the High Level website which you can cut out and lay over the loco to see what will fit. Other people on here may have done the same conversion already. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdp298 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 How about a new DS10? I've used a few and while they're not epic, they're not bad. Might be that one's a bit old and enfeebled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Alexander models list DS 10's Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted December 11, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 11, 2012 Going on from what Jol says, if you want it to pull decent sized trains on a club layout, I'd look at a High Level replacement gearbox (HighFlyer springs to mind) which will allow you to put the motor in the boiler, then get the biggest motor you can fit in there and fill the rest with lead. You can download a gearbox planner from the High Level website which you can cut out and lay over the loco to see what will fit. Other people on here may have done the same conversion already. That would be the course I would take. You don't state what the gearing is, but if its single stage its probably Romford worm & wheel in a simple cradle? A better motor AND gearbox will give you much better running. Highlevel kits are here http://www.highlevelkits.co.uk/ My favourite gearbox is the 3-stage LoadhaulerPlus, with the movable final drive and grubscrew axle fixing. Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Moss Posted December 11, 2012 Author Share Posted December 11, 2012 Hi, The chassis at the moment has the motor sat above the frames and there is plenty of space in the body. Different shaft size isn't a problem as I can drill out the existing worm to take the bigger 2,0mm shaft. The motor/ gear box is just in a small cradle with the worm and gear being secured via grub screws. I might mock up a motor with the dimensions of one with 10mm hole spacings and see if it fits. Thanks for the help so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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