Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[A. Bastow]

6 hours ago, 65179 said:

The 2-4-2T looks to be coming along nicely Adam.

 

Can I ask how long your diagram 62 and 73 vans and the 71 coal wagon lasted for?

 

Regards,

 

Simon

Hi Simon,

 

I’ve had a look in the L&Y wagons book by Noel Coates. It seems the Dia.71s didn’t last very long into the LMS. Some stragglers may have persisted until the end of the 1920s.

 

The other two types (the covered goods) did persist into BR albeit sparingly, but were almost definitely broken up in the mid 50s. Some did survive under private ownership. 
 

Hope that helps!

 

Adam
 

 

[yaxxbarl]

After being gazumped somewhat by Bachmann/EFE with the Austerity Tank project and being busy with moving a layout from Keighley this week I've decided to make a start on my project to 'convert' a Farish 64xx into a Hawksworth 16xx tank.

 

The initial concept was 'it'll be easy, just change the cab, fit smaller wheels and fittings and it'll be OK' however doing it has proved somewhat less easy.

 

Firstly the cab, this is a 'cut and shut' on a Dapol 8750 cab, done with careful use of a razor saw, mitre block and craft knife.

 

Next the tanks - the 16xx's tanks are shallower than the 64xx's so I decided the split the tanks/boiler from the footplate. This will enable many of the later stages, such as adding smaller splashers and new tank supports. The tank was reduced from beneath, luckily the new depth matches the depth of the internal weight. Also, most of the detail from the top of the tank was removed and sanded smooth. The 64xx chminey and dome were reduced in height too.

 

Here's a few pics showing this -

 

A combination of original Farish fittings for the safety valves, handrails, top feed and whistle with Dapol 57xx tank filler caps will be used along with bits of microstrip on the tank tops.

 

I do have some photos showing the tank top from oblique angles but if anyone has any plans showing the engine from above they'll be very useful!

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

P.S hopefully I'll get this finished before any other manufacturer announces they're doing an N gauge 16xx!

[Matt.S.]

Two more of Stephen's great minerals ready for cleaning, fettling and buffers 

[Ian Morgan]

Now that the voting is closed for this year's AGM competitions, I feel I can show what has been on my workbench for the last several weeks. It is the last set of buildings for my Freshwater layout - the petrol station and garage.

 

 

It is a mix of 3D printing, and scratch building with a sprinkling of etches and bits of kits.

 

 

I felt the need to detail the garage interior. The roof is removeable, as is the roof of the signal cabin.

 

 

More details and photos on my Blog page here

 

[Richard Hall]

I have done almost no 2mm modelling for three months because (insert feeble excuse here).  The more I looked at the 2MT, the less happy I was with the valve gear.  So I decided to be super brave and pull it all apart to have another go. 

 

 

I made up a new, slightly longer combination lever from a bit of nickel silver strip (ex Assoc mineral wagon chassis fret), drilled 0.3mm in more or less the right places and filed down to narrow it.  The valve spindle is 0.3mm N/S wire and supports the forward end of the radius rod.  Much better than my first effort, with the union link now roughly parallel to the slidebars.  Istill have to cobble together some spindle covers which are rather awkward fiddly little things.

 

The chassis is also in bits as a couple of wheels had come loose in the muffs.  Loctite should fix that.

[Nick Mitchell]

5702 (lack of) Progress report #6

 

I'm looking for advice/opinions.

I made a start on the tender livery. The paint is Humbrol gloss, which is a bit bright, but I'm hoping weathering will dull it down and blend it with the loco body. Maybe a dark tinted varnish would be useful.

 

The real issue I'm having is with the lining. I'm using Fox transfers. These have separate yellow and black lines. The idea is to put the thicker yellow lines on first, and once they're set, overlay the black lines.

 

I apologise for the slightly out of focus photo, but this shows the first stage of yellow lining on one side of the tender (steps not quite complete):

 

 

This is the other side, after I've added the black overlays:

 

 

The main problem I have is with the large rectangular panel.

Because I put the transfers on the inside of the panel edge, butted up to the beading, the yellow lining appears inset from the beading.

I'm not sure this is correct, and when I paint the beading black, I'm worried it will look too thick.

The top panel yellow lines are inset too, but by much less.

 

So... should I even be worrying about this?

Should I try to remove the rectangular panel lining and replace it? I could use the thinner yellow lining as applied to the tender underframe (there is plenty of this on the transfer sheet). This would give a similar effect to the top panel.

[65179]

1 hour ago, Nick Mitchell said:

5702 (lack of) Progress report #6

 

I'm looking for advice/opinions.

I made a start on the tender livery. The paint is Humbrol gloss, which is a bit bright, but I'm hoping weathering will dull it down and blend it with the loco body. Maybe a dark tinted varnish would be useful.

 

The real issue I'm having is with the lining. I'm using Fox transfers. These have separate yellow and black lines. The idea is to put the thicker yellow lines on first, and once they're set, overlay the black lines.

 

I apologise for the slightly out of focus photo, but this shows the first stage of yellow lining on one side of the tender (steps not quite complete):

 

 

This is the other side, after I've added the black overlays:

 

 

The main problem I have is with the large rectangular panel.

Because I put the transfers on the inside of the panel edge, butted up to the beading, the yellow lining appears inset from the beading.

I'm not sure this is correct, and when I paint the beading black, I'm worried it will look too thick.

The top panel yellow lines are inset too, but by much less.

 

So... should I even be worrying about this?

Should I try to remove the rectangular panel lining and replace it? I could use the thinner yellow lining as applied to the tender underframe (there is plenty of this on the transfer sheet). This would give a similar effect to the top panel.

 

Have you consulted your copy of A Modeller's Handbook of Painting and Lining by Ian Rathbone by any chance? Page 78 onwards features an LMS old standard tender for a (ahem) Crab being lined out.  It looks to me that the yellow is applied on the flat inner edge of the beading itself rather than inside it. 

 

I think that is the way for you to go too if you want to be happy with the finish.

 

A preserved example (Matthew's photo of the NRM's 13000/2700) on Flickr:

It's quite tricky to see on many of the Jubilee tender photos I have, but the Compound tenders I can lay my hands on easily appear similar.

 

Simon

Edited September 18, 2023 by 65179

[Nick Mitchell]

7 hours ago, 65179 said:

 It looks to me that the yellow is applied on the flat inner edge of the beading itself rather than inside it. 

 

I think that is the way for you to go too if you want to be happy with the finish.

 

Hmm. I was relying on you telling me I'd not be happy with so much black between the line and the beading, as motivation to peel off the transfers and try again.... but I wasn't prepared for this answer!

 

I think the chance of me being able to apply a line consistently onto the flat inner edge of the beading in our scale is nil. Especially as the beading doesn't really have a flat inner edge. Goodbye happiness?

 

I know one should never model a model, but I've found a Bachmann 4mm Fowler tender with yellow lines printed inside the beading edge on the flat panel. I was thinking it looked acceptable, and would probably be the best I could achieve. 

 

The alternative would be to put it to one side and ponder what yo do with it indefinitely!

[65179]

I was trying to convey the idea that the yellow lining isn't on the tender side itself, but is on the beading (on the tread not the riser using a stairs analogy). On the model that Ian Rathbone painted the line is slightly inset from the sloped edge of the beading I.e. the yellow is in a parallel plane to the body side. Your model will have a curved edge to the beading too due to the etching process.

 

The real thing doesn't as the beading is flat rectangular strip. Thus the yellow is right to the edge of the beading with red still visible on the side of the beading at right angles to the bodyside.

 

If you have understood what I was originally trying to convey and you don't think that's achievable then the compromise of re-doing the yellow and putting it on the body side and getting it as close as possible to the beading would seem a reasonable compromise.

 

I model 1950, I'm really not a lining expert (which explains my unfinished coaches)!

 

Whatever you do don't just put back in the box!

 

Simon

[Donw]

Hello Nick

 

As an ordinary mortal your lining is straight and consistant so looks really good. However the thing that stands out between yours and the preserved one is the black appears to be right on the edges of the panels of the preserved one and there is no red between the top and bottom lining. i have no idea whether the preserved tender is correct. But assuming that it matches photos of locos in service then you need to join the top and bottom lining whether a thick black line will look wrong is difficult to say.  it looks very good but i can see it niggles you.

Don 

[Nick Mitchell]

11 minutes ago, Donw said:

i have no idea whether the preserved tender is correct. But assuming that it matches photos of locos in service then you need to join the top and bottom lining whether a thick black line will look wrong is difficult to say.

 

The intention was to paint the raised beading black with a fine brush - but not before I've decided whether I need to remove the transfers and try again. Sorry I didn't make that clear in my original post.

But you've got down to the root of my problem - will the thick black line along the beading look ridiculously thick.

 

53 minutes ago, 65179 said:

I was trying to convey the idea that the yellow lining isn't on the tender side itself, but is on the beading (on the tread not the riser using a stairs analogy). On the model that Ian Rathbone painted the line is slightly inset from the sloped edge of the beading I.e. the yellow is in a parallel plane to the body side. Your model will have a curved edge to the beading too due to the etching process.

 

The real thing doesn't as the beading is flat rectangular strip. Thus the yellow is right to the edge of the beading with red still visible on the side of the beading at right angles to the bodyside.

 

If you have understood what I was originally trying to convey and you don't think that's achievable then the compromise of re-doing the yellow and putting it on the body side and getting it as close as possible to the beading would seem a reasonable compromise.

 

Oh! I had completely misunderstood. And now I'm feeling stupid for not having looked more carefully at the real thing rather than the Bachmann model.

[Nig H]

12 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

5702 (lack of) Progress report #6

 

I'm looking for advice/opinions.

I made a start on the tender livery. The paint is Humbrol gloss, which is a bit bright, but I'm hoping weathering will dull it down and blend it with the loco body. Maybe a dark tinted varnish would be useful.

 

The real issue I'm having is with the lining. I'm using Fox transfers. These have separate yellow and black lines. The idea is to put the thicker yellow lines on first, and once they're set, overlay the black lines.

 

I apologise for the slightly out of focus photo, but this shows the first stage of yellow lining on one side of the tender (steps not quite complete):

 

 

This is the other side, after I've added the black overlays:

 

 

The main problem I have is with the large rectangular panel.

Because I put the transfers on the inside of the panel edge, butted up to the beading, the yellow lining appears inset from the beading.

I'm not sure this is correct, and when I paint the beading black, I'm worried it will look too thick.

The top panel yellow lines are inset too, but by much less.

 

So... should I even be worrying about this?

Should I try to remove the rectangular panel lining and replace it? I could use the thinner yellow lining as applied to the tender underframe (there is plenty of this on the transfer sheet). This would give a similar effect to the top panel.

Hi Nick,

 

After seeing the comments made subsequently, I'm wondering if for the rectangular panel you could apply the yellow transfers first up to the inside edge of the beading, then overlay that with black transfers, leaving (hopefully) a thin yellow edge to the black beading. You'd still need to work out how to do something similar for the upper panel, including the upper edge of the rectangular panel.

 

An alternative might be to paint the beading and the edge of the upper panel black and apply yellow lining with a Mecanorma lining pen. 

I had a quick go with a 0.35mm pen on a very old GEM tender (my first ever attempt at a kit). The paint finish is very poor and at least partly explains the poor results I achieved. also, i am not very good at this sort of thing, but you will be much better. The yellow can be touched up or removed completely without harming the underlying paintwork. Tim Watson used these pens to line the CF Oerlikon stock, I think.

 

Here are some pics.

If you want, I'll bring the pens to Bradford next week for you to try out.

 

Nigel Hunt

 

 

 

 

[yaxxbarl]

So... after getting an EFE J94 thoughts soon turned to converting it. On disassembling it, is soon became apparent that none of the currently available conversion bearings were going to work, due to the design of the axles, which is akin to those used on the Dapol 57xx -

 

 

After measuring the inside of the bearing and the diameter of the narrow part of an association drive bush they were near enough a match, so thoughts turned to how to fit the drive bush in the bearing. I decided the narrow the bearing down to provide adequate room for the muffs, and fashioned a filing jig from a few bits of tufnol sheet I had to hand -

 

 

This shows a, unadulterated drive bearing, a J94 chassis bearing, a filed down bearing and the filing jig. The hole on the lower layer of tufnol is sized to take the wide end of the drive bearing.

 

I took some 3mm muffs, in the bearings they are a snug fit, far too tight for free rotation, so I reduced them in length to 4.5mm and in diameter to about 2.7mm, the diameter reduction done my sticking them on a piece of 1.5mm axle steel, putting it in a drill and then rotating it whilst using a file to 'turn' it down.

 

For the geared axle I did similar, again reducing in length to 4.5mm, mounting a 20T M0.3 gear in the middle, mounting on a piece of axle steel in a drill and filing down the exposed parts of the muff to 2.7mm diameter.

 

With hindsight I would use shortened Farish conversion muffs for the outer axles!

 

I then was able to press fit the filed bearings in the EFE bearings from the squared/outer end of each, using a bit of Loctite 638 to help retain them in. I did have to turn a triangular file around the inside of the outer ends of the EFE bearings to help the filed bearings fit in, using a small vice as an improvised press to drive them home.

 

I was then able to re-assemble the axle sets and mount them in the chassis for a test fit -

 

 

This all seemed to work so far, even to the point of the centre driver rotating when I applied power to it on a rolling road. So, next to coupling rods - I used the old Farish 08/J94 rods on the 3-205 etch as a basis, reducing the length between the rear two wheelsets by the 'cut and shut' method I used for my Pannier Tank wheelsets. I was able to use the EFE rods to derive the centres and mark up a soldering jig made from an MDF offcut with cut-off track pins driven through at the centres.

 

I quartered the wheels, mainly by eye and sheer luck, and then secured some crankpins in the wheels using Loctite 638, cutting them down on the rear two drivers due to lack of clearances between the mid footstep and the injector pipes respectively.

 

At this point I threaded in the coupling rods - and realised I'd made my first set 0.5mm too long between the rear drivers, so I re-checked the jig and made a second set - this time they were right!

 

Once these were fitted, a final bit of fettling to the quartering was done and I soldered some crankpin washers to the rear wheels, allowing for easy removal for painting.

 

 

...and here's the proof of this proverbial pudding - the loco in action on the rollers!

 

 

It also sauntered nicely up and down the test track. It'll do for now anyway, it's enough to go on the demo stand at Stafford after which it will go into the paint and detailing shops to come out at Cromford & High Peak stalwart 68012, oval buffers and all!

 

Cheers,

 

John

Edited September 21, 2023 by yaxxbarl

[queensquare]

5 hours ago, yaxxbarl said:

So... after getting an EFE J94 thoughts soon turned to converting it. On disassembling it, is soon became apparent that none of the currently available conversion bearings were going to work, due to the design of the axles, which is akin to those used on the Dapol 57xx -

 

 

After measuring the inside of the bearing and the diameter of the narrow part of an association drive bush they were near enough a match, so thoughts turned to how to fit the drive bush in the bearing. I decided the narrow the bearing down to provide adequate room for the muffs, and fashioned a filing jig from a few bits of tufnol sheet I had to hand -

 

 

This shows a, unadulterated drive bearing, a J94 chassis bearing, a filed down bearing and the filing jig. The hole on the lower layer of tufnol is sized to take the wide end of the drive bearing.

 

I took some 3mm muffs, in the bearings they are a snug fit, far too tight for free rotation, so I reduced them in length to 4.5mm and in diameter to about 2.7mm, the diameter reduction done my sticking them on a piece of 1.5mm axle steel, putting it in a drill and then rotating it whilst using a file to 'turn' it down.

 

For the geared axle I did similar, again reducing in length to 4.5mm, mounting a 20T M0.3 gear in the middle, mounting on a piece of axle steel in a drill and filing down the exposed parts of the muff to 2.7mm diameter.

 

With hindsight I would use shortened Farish conversion muffs for the outer axles!

 

I then was able to press fit the filed bearings in the EFE bearings from the squared/outer end of each, using a bit of Loctite 638 to help retain them in. I did have to turn a triangular file around the inside of the outer ends of the EFE bearings to help the filed bearings fit in, using a small vice as an improvised press to drive them home.

 

I was then able to re-assemble the axle sets and mount them in the chassis for a test fit -

 

 

This all seemed to work so far, even to the point of the centre driver rotating when I applied power to it on a rolling road. So, next to coupling rods - I used the old Farish 08/J94 rods on the 3-205 etch as a basis, reducing the length between the rear two wheelsets by the 'cut and shut' method I used for my Pannier Tank wheelsets. I was able to use the EFE rods to derive the centres and mark up a soldering jig made from an MDF offcut with cut-off track pins driven through at the centres.

 

I quartered the wheels, mainly by eye and sheer luck, and then secured some crankpins in the wheels using Loctite 638, cutting them down on the rear two drivers due to lack of clearances between the mid footstep and the injector pipes respectively.

 

At this point I threaded in the coupling rods - and realised I'd made my first set 0.5mm too long between the rear drivers, so I re-checked the jig and made a second set - this time they were right!

 

Once these were fitted, a final bit of fettling to the quartering was done and I soldered some crankpin washers to the rear wheels, allowing for easy removal for painting.

 

 

...and here's the proof of this proverbial pudding - the loco in action on the rollers!

 

 

It also sauntered nicely up and down the test track. It'll do for now anyway, it's enough to go on the demo stand at Stafford after which it will go into the paint and detailing shops to come out at Cromford & High Peak stalwart 68012, oval buffers and all!

 

Cheers,

 

John

Ingenious, many thanks for posting.

 

Jerry

[yaxxbarl]

14 hours ago, queensquare said:

Ingenious, many thanks for posting.

 

Jerry

Thanks Jerry!

 

For anyone such as yourself with a lathe I would go with Nigel Cliffe's initial thoughts in the VAG and consider making full replacement bearings as this does give the advantage of allowing a smidgeon more internal length for the muffs - I think 4.5mm long is just about enough but the more stub support the better.

 

In terms of durability of my conversion it is early days but use in other applications suggests that that Loctite 638 is strong stuff so it looks promising for holding the bearing ends in - if not I can always upgrade the joins to a soldered one.

 

Cheers,

 

John 

[CF MRC]

On 19/09/2023 at 11:31, Nig H said:

 Tim Watson used these pens to line the CF Oerlikon stock, I think.

 

Here are some pics.

 

Nigel Hunt

 

 

 

 

I did indeed Nigel. The secret is with the dense yellow ink. It was straightforward to use and not too obtrusive. I think the problem with many commercial transfer systems is that the lining colours have too much value & saturation. 
 

On my Midland engines the lining was applied directly using a ruling pen for the heavy yellow lines (Craftmaster straw) and then the black applied with Indian ink to thin down the straw to nearer scale thickness. My eyes were 45 years younger, of course…
 

Tim

[ianwales]

On 21/09/2023 at 13:41, yaxxbarl said:

.and here's the proof of this proverbial pudding - the loco in action on the rollers!

 

 

It also sauntered nicely up and down the test track. It'll do for now anyway, it's enough to go on the demo stand at Stafford after which it will go into the paint and detailing shops to come out at Cromford & High Peak stalwart 68012, oval buffers and all!

 

Cheers,

 

John

 

Hi John

 

Can I ask what make are the rollers please as I'm looking for a set(for N gauge) to use with my loco tester?

 

Ian

[yaxxbarl]

On 23/09/2023 at 11:14, ianwales said:

 

Hi John

 

Can I ask what make are the rollers please as I'm looking for a set(for N gauge) to use with my loco tester?

 

Ian

 

Ian,

 

Yes - they are an N Gauge set, the DCC Concepts ones, available from various places.

 

On mine I widened them to be a better fit for finescale wheels by elongating the holes in the metal blocks containing the rollers to allow a little extra outward movement, though they will and still do work for N Gauge.

 

They can be mounted on 2FS track, though they are better and less likely to move laterally if mounted on N Gauge track - to that end I have a piece of PECO N Gauge setrack glued to a spare piece of MDF and wired up purely for that purpose.

 

Cheers,

 

John

Edited September 25, 2023 by yaxxbarl

[Klaus ojo]

When recently Bruce (VRBroadgauge)  said that the 2mm SA kit of the BR class 11/08 was a nice thing to do I decided to have a go as well.

For me it was not as straight forward as I had been hoping. The fret partly was a bit weakly etched and so I had to open the door gaps and the handles were far too thick. And I was a bit audacious deciding to do it with the soldered cosmetic outer chassis but wanted to get practice in that technique.  So I got what I wanted: a learning curve. There now is a short between one side and the middle of the PCB footplate which was not there before soldering the hook onto the buffer beam. Let´s see if this will have an impact on function. I hope not. The front steps are having a gap towards the buffer beam because I wanted to avoid something like that.

 

Now I know again why I like superglue: when mounting the door sides to the plastic bonnet it did ooze out of all gaps between the hinges. Let´s see if I´ve cleaned it up thoroughly enough when I´ve applied some base coat varnish.

 

I want to give it a black early livery, perhaps LMS. This would be an idea as well: DSB ML 6  https://www.jernbanen.dk/forum2/index.php?id=60108   I´ve seen several photos on the internet but suppose that the choice of photos is mixing class 11 and 08 and the LMS 7120 possibly is not in original state. Personally I am not so peculiar about this but on the other hand: I still could come closer to a specific prototype, so why not?

 

On the photo the coupling rods and cranks are not yet mounted because I am waiting for some newly ordered  gears which I must have used otherwise..  And some other parts  are lacking yet as well.

 

Some hints how to proceed are welcome. (Otherwise I will show a freelance loco here in my surroundings 😉 )

 

yours

Klaus

Edited October 3, 2023 by Klaus ojo
link to DSB

[VRBroadgauge]

You're well in advance of me Klaus. I ordered the wrong gears and I have to figure out how to adjust the external chassis rails to accommodate the gauge widening. I must say it's looking pretty good. Which gear set up are you using Klaus? I decided to go the full monty and gear all the wheels. Still have to figure out the motor mount.

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by VRBroadgauge
photo

[Klaus ojo]

Bruce,

what a pity that I do not have broad gauge and knuckle couplers. The VR F class looks great!

"Wrong gears" is an issue: I thought the BR class 08 and 11 chassis are designed for 14 and 18 teeth 64DP gears and so the mod  0.4 gears should be an acceptable substitute. However, no way at my chassis. Only the 16 teeth instead of the 18 did allow the wheels spinning smoothly.

I wanted to drive all axles with wide and heavy 14 teeth gears which I have plenty of. So now I can do the cranks and coupling rods. 

cheers

Klaus

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by Klaus ojo
newer photo: mounted gears now, class 08

[Chris Higgs]

11 hours ago, Klaus ojo said:

Bruce,

what a pity that I do not have broad gauge and knuckle couplers. The VR F class looks great!

"Wrong gears" is an issue: The chassis is designed for 14 and 18 teeth 64DP gears and so the mod  0.4 gears should be an acceptable substitute.

 

Err, no it isn't. The 08 uses 14:18 tooth gear ratios, but the Class 11 uses 14:16. Looks like the instructions are wrong, and the accompanying chassis diagrams which showed the correct ratios have vanished. An 18 tooth will not only not mesh, but will also foul the track as it has a larger diameter than the 8mm wheels the class 11 uses.

 

Not convinced by the VR F class. Looks like management decreed it needed cow catchers on ends and sides, and the shed staff found an old station bench that they could use the timbers off to achieve that. 🙂

 

Chris

 

Edited October 3, 2023 by Chris Higgs

[Klaus ojo]

Chris,

thank you for this valuable information, now I feel better. I guess I´ve got the instructions for the BR class 08 together with the parts some 2 years ago. And maybe I´ve simply read it too lazily... 

... I like these gizmos on the VR F class... Including the bent front grill...

regards

Klaus

 

 

[Nig H]

I have been working on some LMS Stanier suburbans for what seems like ages. The first one I did, the maroon one, I had to repaint because the masking over the sides took the paint with it when I removed it after painting the ends and underframe. Once I'd successfully repainted it, John Aldrick kindly agreed to do the lining on the sides, and very good it is too. For the crimson ones, I brush painted the ends and underframe so I didn't need to mask off the sides. It tuned out to be easier than I thought, though it took a long time. I 

 

The next stage was to apply coach numbers and class 1s etc transfers. I started with some CCT number sets for the coach numbers as these include the correct number ranges for these coaches. The colour of the transfers is yellow, which is wrong for the pre-1956 crimson livery (it should be old gold). I thought I might be able to run an orange felt-tip pen over the transfers but this didn't really work. The number sets went on OK, but when I cut out the 'guard' lettering for the guards compartment door, I found the transfer lifted away from the backing paper. I applied these anyway. I wasn't totally convinced by the results of all this, the colour just looked wrong.

I planned to airbrush the transfers with a protective layer of vanish, as is usual practice. I thought the transfers might be blown away by the airbrush so it seemed a good idea to brush over the transfers with some satin varnish. Doing this caused the lettering on the transfers to disintegrate. Has anyone else have this happen? So, in the end I removed the CCT transfers from the crimson coaches, and used Fox transfers instead. Although these were the correct old gold colour, I had to make up each string with individual digits and letters. This was quite tedious but not as bad as I thought it would be. So that's where I'm up to - see pics below. 

 

 

 

 

Next step is to varnish the sides and spray the roofs. Then fix the glazing and seats inside the bodies, and attach the roofs.

 

Nigel Hunt

[PaulCheffus]

Hi

 

Was it enamel varnish? I tend to use Johnson’s Klear with these to seal them before using any other varnish.

 

Cheers

 

Paul