Ruston Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I have had some parts made by the 3D printing process and would like to know what sort of glues to use to assemble them. I thought the expertise would be in this forum section, so I'm hoping some of you good people can help. Is "superglue" likely to be OK on these parts? What about solvents, such as Plastic Weld? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katier Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 I suspect the answer would be influenced by 'what did you print it in' the range of even just 'plastics' varies quite a lot, without also taking into account the non-plastic materials available!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wild Boar Fell Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 Hello Ruston, Katier is quite correct it does vary from plastic to plastic, however I find UHU works of Shapeways's WSF and I.materialise's Polyamide. I think I may have used it on shapeways FUD as well, but I am not certain. Hope this helps, Regards, Wild Boar Fell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted December 20, 2012 Author Share Posted December 20, 2012 Ah. I've no idea what the material is. The parts were done as a favour, no questions asked. ;-) Are any of the usual materials able to be fixed with Plastic Weld? Or will it simply reduce them to a mess? I'll ask what the printing material is. Thanks, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Devil Posted December 20, 2012 Share Posted December 20, 2012 As others have said, depends, I use PG from I Materialise a lot that's a resin so Plastic Weld doesn't have any effect on it, superglues work well though. On other printed stuff I've pretty much used various gel/normal superglues with decent results, usual disclaimer, test first! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 I still don't know what the material is but The manufacturers recomend a 'medium cynocacrylate' glue, but make sure all trace of the support material is removed as it is waxy and will affect the adhesion. To do this they recomend a "2% to 10% lye (sodium hydroxide) solution to clean the support material off printed parts" I've had a good look under the kitchen sink and we're all out of sodium hydroxide. Will fairy liquid do? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 For the waxy ones it really helps to get an residual wax off before painting or gluing White spirit works wonders on some materials if used in moderation then cleaned off. I've used ordinary plastic glue with Shapeways WSF but the resin based stuff is far trickier. So far Evostick impact has worked well once the are cleaned. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted December 22, 2012 Share Posted December 22, 2012 I've taken to using white spitit to clean Shapeways FUD parts. It does turn the surface of the material white though rather than translucent, but it does accept paint well though (my wagons are simply painted in a couple of thin coats of humbrol enamel with no primer). I have found that super glue works well on FUD - I use it to attach the W-Irons and brake gear to FUD wagon bodies. I have also used liquid poly solv to attach a plasticard roof to one of my wagons (I think that the solvent melts the plasticard so that the molten bits weld into the rough surface of the FUD as FUD itself is impervious to the solvent), but although it's OK for a temporary fix the bond isn't stong enough long term, so I always use some thin super glue to reinforce the join. Hope that helps Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-CRS Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Hi Ian Does the enamel dry properly on FUD as when I tried it never dried. That is why I use acrylics like Halfords Primer as a base coat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I also found enamel takes forever to dry and it was recommended not to use it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Hi Ian Does the enamel dry properly on FUD as when I tried it never dried. That is why I use acrylics like Halfords Primer as a base coat. After cleaning the model thoroughly with white spirit I didn't have any problems at all. The reason I used white spirit in the first instance was because the original coat of paint on one of my first attempts dried patchy (glossy / matt), which I put down to not removing the waxy residue properly, so all I wanted to do was remove the paint!! In the end I discovered that the resulting surface of the FUD accepted the re-coat much better so I've used white spirit since. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dazzler Fan Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Drying was a problem: thank you for the hints. Recently the hard wax, which was difficult to ferret out, now arrives as a waxy paste. Then I brush with washing-up liquid and an old tooth brush, under a tap as hot as my hands will take. I am then left with an opaque model that is squeeky clean. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjgardiner Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 I have had no issues using BobSmithIndustries CA Glues (http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html )on Shapeways White-Strong-Flexible material. Haven't had any other types of 3D printed material yet to experiment on, though I am considering re-printing some car sides i have done up in FUD rather than the WSF as i think they will look closer to the plastic they are being inserted into when painted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian777999 Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 I am modifying the bogies on some old Triang clerestory coaches so that the buffer height will be correct for screw link couplers. This involves cutting and drilling the original bogie then gluing on to it a 3D printed part made from PLA. 1. What is the best glue to use between these two plastics ? I was thinking of using CA (super glue) but somebody may have better ideas. 2. I did initially make the extra parts from brass on my lathe. Would CA be the best choice when joining brass to the plastic bogie ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 I have found that cheap liquid superglue(Pound shop) works well on WSF, especially when joining to a porous surface such as card or wood. In fact they work better than joining to other plastics. I always try out before committing to using it on a surface that matters though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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