Scale7JB Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 One thing I have done on my tender is to chop off the etched coal rails and use some half round brass section.. Only slightly tricky, but looks so much better.. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 5, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 5, 2013 I did this on the rear part of my J37 tender, JB and it was fiddly but worth it. The hardest part as you can see was keeping the rails parallel all the way round whilst bending them without breaking the soldered joints to the stanchions. I got there in the end but I will probably fit the supplied ones first to see how they look before deciding (you've got my Highland Calvinisitic guilt quotient going though now!). Gus 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Oh in that case you need some working brakes and working reverser on the K2 also! Haha JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 JB. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 6, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2013 JB. Impressed! It's almost enough to make me take out another mortgage and go down the S7 route! (As it happens, I managed the working brakes on my B1 but that was only due to the difficulty in gluing Hornby soft plastic LOL!) I am quite tempted by 7mm at times but do enjoy the detailing in 4mm - when I retire from the RN in a year or 2 I might take up jewellery making as a second career! Gus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 7, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) Good session yesterday with the front handrails and tender rear detailling finished. The lamp irons on the rear are those by Mainly Trains (designed by Iain Rice). These are slightly overscale I think but capture the shape well and are reasonably (but not hugely) robust - unfortunately I ran out of the tapered ones so tweaked some parallel ones and these match reasonably well. The lower RH one does look slightly high in the photo above but it did look fine when I did it - getting them all straight was a challenge. I did so by eye, tinning the rear of each mounting point and the tender back with a very thin layer of 145, before sweating each in place with a hot iron and plenty of flux. I broke a couple trying to coax them into place with the tip of a round file in their little pools of molten metal (hence making some more/running out) and found ensuring that the bases (ie mounting plates) lined up was the key to a good line. The irons themselves can be gently tweaked/levered once securely in place (a good test!!). After that, the rear steps (and front ones) were a dawdle. I folded each to shape (remebering that the lower/larger front tender steps need to be folded with the securing flange uppermost and thus an "outside" fold). The front handrails were straightforward and secured with solder prior to removing the inside of the handrail stantions tails from the inner tender sheets with a grinding wheel on the Dremel (alternative new career - dentistry?!) BTW, I shaped the steps by making the folds first, reinforcing with a little solder, and then gripping the edges in a flat fronted pair of pliers before pushing upwards with a small file/ruler. this gave a reasonably sharp, but curved edge to the turn-up at the edge of each step. Next job is the coal rails and rear coal plate, followed by the water filler and other whitemetal fittings - the vac and steam heat pipes have just been temporarily fitted. Since I am about to drive back south though, the above will have to wait though! (Although I just about have time to check that lower right hand iron and fix it if required....!). Time to consider JB's wire suggestion! Gus (PS - suggest leaving the guard irons off until a late stage for anyone else building this kit - they do tend to get caught on things and are easily bent inwards). Edited January 7, 2013 by Rannoch Moor 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 7, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 7, 2013 Corrected - and quickly! Now to hit the road to Pompey.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Very nice Gus.. Looking at the picture I think you might have missed the horizontal plate that fits directly behind the front coal plate across the tops of the lockers.. JB. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 8, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) JB, missed the plate on the drawing. Did it extend the full width of the coal space and was it the same depth as the lockers (ie like a shelf across the top of the lockers)? Haven't got access to the drawings at present... Edited January 9, 2013 by Rannoch Moor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 13, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2013 A good afternoon session saw the tender put to one side (after tidying up the interior joins with Milliput yesterday) pending sourcing some half round 0.9mm wire, and a start on the loco footplate. Tony Wright's BRM article warned about this and whilst I found it daunting (and challenging in execution), it wasn't too terrifying. I must say after a careful read of the instructions and the article last night, and some careful thought whilst pounding the pavements on a run this morning, I elected to follow the instructions by not building the chassis first which would I thought maximise the strength of the jig that is used to form the footplate around the valances. This pic shows the jig and valances cut from the etch frame and note that I did follow Tony's advice and leave part 6 in place. Folding this accurately was a real challenge even using bending bars and my vice and only one side (the one without part 6) folded cleanly - the phot below shows the result on the other side but luckily not the blue air that attracted a ticking off from my 16 year old daughter... Notwithstanding though, some careful tweaking (which would have been required anyway I guess) ensured that the 2 valances were parallel, square and the correct distance apart, achieved by checking against the half etched rebates on the underside of the footplate they would fit into ultimately. My example actually has one of these rebates slightly closer to the outside than t'other but still sufficiently inset from the edge to be acceptable. I declared satisfaction once the footplate sat comfortably on the valances with these sniugly in their rebates... Then it was time to put the Gresley curve onto the footplate (a kit make or break moment.... Gulp!) Tony Wright curved the footplate in its entirety before fitting and adjusting it and whilst I can see the logic in this, I felt that was asking for trouble because if an error is made, it will be very difficult to correct it without wrinkling the thin brass of the footplate. Instead I again stuck with the instructions and formed the first curve ahead of the cab using a file handle as a former and starting the curve with ref to the provided drawing, cross checked with the Isinglass one. The remaining flat section is now attached to the rear part of the valances after first curving the rear extensions of the latter under the rear of the cab footplate: I did deviate from the instructions by not fitting the rear drawbar and regretted this as it provides needed stiffening (as the instructions state!) whilst carefully forming the footplate from front to rear using pressure applied by fingers and pieces of wood - do, however, use the cab side sheets to ensure that the initial s-curve is accuratetly formed before proceeding too far along the flat section. It took and hour or so's teaking, moving a cm or two along at a time and doing both sides together rather than one followed by thethe other which I am sure is a recipe for disaster... Firm pressure using my (now very scorched) clothes peg sections held everything in place as well as helping to form the curves. Be advised, though, that it is easy to press too hard and deform the supporting jig although luckily I spotted this before it became critical (I hope...!). Ultimately though, I was rewarded with this, and the end of the valance sections matched the etched rebates within 0.5mm - the instructions tell you to worry if they don't but give no guidance on what to do! That about completes this week's progress (apart from some painting of the loco yard on Kilbrannan Ferry using some bargain acrylics bought from Acorn art here in the burgh. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
will5210 Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 Lovely stuff. Am watching with interest 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
landscapes Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Hi Just found your thread. Fully agree with last comment. Regards David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted January 15, 2013 Share Posted January 15, 2013 I've just remembered that you're about to hit the trickiest part of the K2 build by far.. Getting the front part of the footplate lined up correctly when you slide the assembly into the main footplate.. The instructions do state to take a lot of time with this.. Take heed.. It's an absolute !! I took it apart twice I think as it just didn't look right each time.. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 15, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2013 Cheers JB - I will take my time and resist the temptation to solder solidly too early! Look carefully, tack and go away for a while before coming back for a jaundiced look pays I find... I'll try and remember my advice come Saturday! Gus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 18, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2013 Having had 1 flight cancelled and rescheduled to this evening, I am hoping that the snow will not delay further progress this weekend by keeping me separated from my (Scottish) workbench... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 20, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2013 (edited) Made it in the end - and some progress on the cab last night and this afternoon. I first dressed the cabsides to fit the formed curves as closely as possible and once satisfied, fitted the etched window surrounds. I decided after considering Tony Wright's advice and looking carefully at various phots that 30A fusewire would make adequate beading at the rear of the cab - the 15A used on the tender didn't look beefy enough. This was fitted by soldering tye long vertical first (to provide an anchor) and then coaxing the wire round the half etched guide using pliers, tweezers, files (to push) and then soldered in place. The key element is getting everything square as the correctly fitted cab front will allow for a correctly fitted boiler etc. I took my time with this and achieved it with success in the end - careful and repeated test fitting to the footplate helped along with soldering against my try squares and some wooden blocks I have also tested for square. In the pic below the cab has been laid into the slots on the footplate that accept tabs on the bottom of tyhe cab sheets... Couldn't resist... Only slight concern was that in comparing the cab spectacles (and the Isinglass drawing...) to my many photos, the latter made the spectacle corners look rounded as here: Eventually the penny dropped (just before I took up my needle files!) and I realised that it was dirt in the window corners that cused this appearance - mentally filed for weathering stage! Formed the roof but won't fit at least until the cab is soldered in place, and probably not till near the end of the build. I still have to form the curve-in on the rear of the cab sheets too. Have cut out and dressed the front footplate sections (the real accuracy critical part as if you screw it up the cylinders won't fit or there will be an unprototypical gap) so they will be constructed tonight and fitted if I have time - Vernier at the ready! Gus Edited January 20, 2013 by Rannoch Moor 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted January 20, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2013 Front footplate/buffer beam constructed and tacked in place. Will post a couple of pics if I get time tomorrow but that will be the last chance I get on Loch Treig for a couple of weeks as I am duty next week-end... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted February 2, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) Back again and getting a quick post in whilst the iron heats up! The front footplate looks fine still and will check the measurements and squareness directly, but will probably leave the tacks for a while and not fully run the soldered seams until a bit further down the line to be on the safe side. Back to it! Edit: PS Picked up Peter Walker's Ian Allan album on LNER 2-6-0s from the "Working Steam" series at the Southampton exhibition last week so it wasn't a complete washout as far as progress was concerned..! Edited February 2, 2013 by Rannoch Moor 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted February 2, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) As you can see below, cab fixed in place - key challenge being to ensure that this is square in all planes as it is one of the datums that will set the boiler's correct mounting both in pitch and in length. This was achieved by tacking one side in place in its slot, checking square both in plan and in side elevation using a try square and then tacking the other cab side checking all the time - this took a few adjustments (and sore fingers) but got there in the end! I also carefully formed the curved turn in by gripping the rear of the cab sheet (prior to fitting it!!!) and applying pressure to the sheet with a ruler. It wasn't perfectly straight but I think will look OK. The lining will soon tell the truth of my assessment! The dodgy looking window is caused by the other side seen through the gap and the fact I'd managed to bend the rear extension at thwe top of the sheet... This afternoon also saw the folding and fitting of the splashers - folding was eased by running a triangular needle file through the fold line a few times and taking time to set them accurately in the bending bars - a quick press with the steel rule, a rub over with the Flexifile emery stick (whilst still secured in the bending bars) and no problems. Soldering in place was tricky - they fit into a narrow half-etched groove on the inside of the footplate inner edge - rather than tack them in place at the front ends as suggested by Tony Wright in his articles I tacked from the outside and then secured the front ends -again with scorched fingers despite trying to fit my trusty pegs in place! I eventually gave up and cut all the spacers etc from the bottom of the jig to afford access BTW...! There are a few tiny gaps at the front end but I will sort these with Miliput from the unside rather than risk compromising the strength and critical length of the front footplate. The above is clearly before securing the seams, curved ends and cleaning up! Below hopefully shows the ensemble reasonably clearly and how easily it is to build in a twist. The boiler expansion plates were folded up and will be fitted tomorrow into the slots on the top of the splashers. The only discovered challenge now is the discovery of the first cosmetic dimensional inaccuracy in that the top edge of the cab is too short - the top rails should extend further aft as shown below. Tomorrow's run may allow me to determine a solution...! Edited February 3, 2013 by Rannoch Moor 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted February 3, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2013 Today's objectives are to complete the front footplate items and the boiler extension boxes refered to above. If I get time, it is probably time to make a start on the chassis. I think this is probably important (if only for my peace of mind) to ensure clearances as well as to allow early engagemwent with the reported issue that the supplied coupling rod centres do not match the frames' wheel centres. For the latter, a set of AG Universal rods is in stores (another bargain from Southampton last week - love it when you find something you actually need in someones pile of parts!) Gus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Coming along well there and you are still tempting me.................!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted February 3, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 3, 2013 The front footplate plating was finished this afternoon - slightly out od kilter but the partsfitted immaculately, testament to the accurate engineering of this kit. The exception to this is the aforementioned chassis/rod discrepancy. My start on the chassis proved this - the rear coupling rod appears to be about 0.5-0.7mm too long. The centres of the chassis match up to both the drawing the drawings and published wheel-base data (more importantly, I suppose, from an engineering point of view!) so I will shorten the rods to suit since I am building this loco rigid given the clearance issues and the fact i haven't got around to sorting out some Bill Bedford springy beams. Having said this, the axle holes need some finger blistering opening out to take the bearings so it might be worth a pause.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted February 12, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2013 Despite sore thumbs, got the axle holes reamed out, the bearings fitted (use short ones for the rear driven axle otherwise the gearbox may not fit!) and the frames erected. I used my Comet jig and a sheet of glass to make sure all was square and parallel. I would, however, next time not fit the bearings until afterwards as otherwise you jam the jig cylindrical blocks in! I got round this by fixing in one chassis separator to both sides (securely at the rear), easing the frames apart to drop the jig out, inserting standard jig axles, dropping the Comet cylinders between the frames clear of the axles and carefully clamping the shebang together before soldering in the front spacer. Key is to check and check again for squareness etc, and ensure the jig axles are a close but sliding fit - ie they slide out when the chassis is tilted to one side. It is so much easier to make a beam compensated chassis, but inserting the wheels proved all was well on the glass with no sign of rocking in any plane and te frames rolling smoothly with a hard blow (although lubrication will improve things further. Phew! Despite sore thumbs, got the axle holes reamed out, the bearings fitted (use short ones for the rear driven axle otherwise the gearbox may not fit!) and the frames erected. I used my Comet jig and a sheet of glass to make sure all was square and parallel. I would, however, next time not fit the bearings until afterwards as otherwise you jam the jig cylindrical blocks in! I got round this by fixing in one chassis separator to both sides (securely at the rear), easing the frames apart to drop the jig out, inserting standard jig axles, dropping the Comet cylinders between the frames clear of the axles and carefully clamping the shebang together before soldering in the front spacer. Key is to check and check again for squareness etc, and ensure the jig axles are a close but sliding fit - ie they slide out when the chassis is tilted to one side. It is so much easier to make a beam compensated chassis, but inserting the wheels proved all was well on the glass with no sign of rocking in any plane and te frames rolling smoothly with a hard blow (although lubrication will improve things further. Phew! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted February 12, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 12, 2013 (edited) That is coming along very nicely. I a sure that it got mentioned on here somewhere but without trawling through lots of pages I am not sure where, so I will just touch on it again. One of the shortcomings of the kit is the access to the leading driving wheels if it is built rigid. Malcolm built all his either sprung or beam compensated and when I raised it with him his response was that if peple wanted to build it other than how he intended then it was their problem! You cannot get the leading wheels in and out once the cylinders are on. So you have a few options. One is to build up the frames as a simple wheels/coupling rods arrangement, get it working and even paint the frames before assembling the cylinders and valve gear. Another is to modify the cylinders/valve gear so that they can be attached with a nut and bolt, rather than be soldered to te frames. A third is to make the leading wheels removeable, with a slot and a keeper plate or retaining wire arrangement. All three will work but I thought it worth suggesting them before you get too far! Keep up the good work!! Cheers, Tony PS Just noticed that you have mentioned Comet cylinders and I think the frames look a bit altered, so you have probably sorted out a suitable modification to make the cylinders removeable but I will leave the post on just in case! Edited February 12, 2013 by t-b-g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Rannoch Moor Posted February 12, 2013 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 12, 2013 Thanks Tony. As it happens, the reference to Comet cylinders is the spacing device included on their jig, but having yet to commit to the cylinders (ie the steam ones!) I am weighing up the pros and cons of building as an 0-6-0 as you suggest and painting prior to attaching cylinders and valve gear, or making the cyliders as a bolt on arrangement. Given the close relationship between body and cylinders, I am tending (in a cowardly way!) towards the former but instinctively prefer the latter! Gus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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