sub39h Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I asked PH about the 90 etch. He said it isn't right but he was considering doing a 91 version. For the DVT I wonder if there is any scope to use the Mk3 DVT as a donor for lights and things. The new cheap Arriva version at £35 would be a good donor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 One thig that did occur to me is that someone once pouted out that there is a similarity between the 90 and the Mk4 DVT And the 91 and the Mk3 DVT (yes, that's the wrong way around deliberately). So I wonder if actually the Mk3 donor would be better on the 91 and the 90 etch better on the Mk4 DVT? Tbh I never could see what the poster was referring to but maybe someone with more knowledge of the prototype can offer some insight. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarrettTheThief Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I just have an old Hornby Mk3 DVT (which is apparently more like a Mk4 but without sloped sides) and I can't see any way of modifying the plastic light cluster and still have it looking good. My other concern is glazing. Is there any place to get replacement glazing for both the Class 91 loco and DVT? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGJ Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 I just have an old Hornby Mk3 DVT (which is apparently more like a Mk4 but without sloped sides) and I can't see any way of modifying the plastic light cluster and still have it looking good. My other concern is glazing. Is there any place to get replacement glazing for both the Class 91 loco and DVT? Peters spares http://www.petersspares.com/spares.irc may have glazing, also there could be south east finecast, but i dont know the range http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamphillip Posted January 8, 2014 Author Share Posted January 8, 2014 are old Hornby Mk3 coaches passable for the real thing or would the new ones be better Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarrettTheThief Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Peters spares http://www.petersspares.com/spares.irc may have glazing, also there could be south east finecast, but i dont know the range http://www.sefinecast.co.uk/ PS didn't have any but I lucked out on ebay for a set of spares (bogies, chassis and glazing!), I'll have to wait around for some DVT glazing though. I might just buy a brand new one and sell the rest of my current one for spares. For the Mk4 coaches, I can get a satisfactory finish if I use a clear plastic sheet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 are old Hornby Mk3 coaches passable for the real thing or would the new ones be better The old ones are far too short. This can be useful if you're limited with space but they would probably need re wheeling at least Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 I just have an old Hornby Mk3 DVT (which is apparently more like a Mk4 but without sloped sides) and I can't see any way of modifying the plastic light cluster and still have it looking good. My other concern is glazing. Is there any place to get replacement glazing for both the Class 91 loco and DVT? The old Mk3 DVT is just a repainted Mk4 DVT iirc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GarrettTheThief Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 Oh crapola, checked it properly and I can confirm what you're saying. That isn't such a bad thing though. I'll just borrow the glazing from my Virgin DVT and sell the bodyshell, chassis and bogies. I only bought it for £12.99. As for my Mk3 DVT, I'll just shell out for a Hornby one for repainting in Swallow livery. I don't mind spending the money. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamphillip Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 will these look any good once modded to fit? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/00-Hornby-SPARES-CLASS-90-LIGHT-LENSES-1-PAIR-/400650528091?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item5d48a1e55b for my class 91 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamphillip Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 right so i have found some parts i think may work for adding lights to the class 91; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-HST-Lighting-Upgrade-Cool-White-Light-/251434891509?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item3a8aaff8f5 for the lighting http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/00-Hornby-SPARES-CLASS-90-LIGHT-LENSES-1-PAIR-/400650528091?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item5d48a1e55b and new front bar Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 right so i have found some parts i think may work for adding lights to the class 91; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/00-Hornby-SPARES-CLASS-90-LIGHT-LENSES-1-PAIR-/400650528091?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item5d48a1e55b and new front bar I don't think that'll work, the class 90 lights only ever looked like what they were made of, which is a big lump of clear plastic with BEMACs printed on. You'd be better cutting the lights off the existing part to leave just the horn grill section, filling the space inside the apertures to match that on a real loco, then attaching the pre-drilled BEMACs into place (I'm so out of touch with the 4mm modelling scene I wouldn't know what to recommend for these). Once painted, the covers can be made from clear sellotape, like this one I've done earlier (about 18 years earlier, if I had to guess). Can anyone spot the deliberate mistake...? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamphillip Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 Can anyone spot the deliberate mistake...? it's an American layout and the blue on the bogies? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 it's an American layout and the blue on the bogies? True- it's running on 600v DC, and the dampers are supposed to be blue. A club member once pointed out it's also still got a price label on, which is in fact the orange dot the real 91029 carried on it's roof to make it identifiable from the chase helicopter when it had it's namesake on board. But what's wrong with the front end...? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The Kaydee is too high for NEM? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The Vertical white band in the black stripe from the light clusters? Edit:Fixed Link Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SGJ Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The orange ets / eth cable thingie ( the orange electric box ) is on the side of the buffer beam - and should be on the front ? SGJ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The Kaydee is too high for NEM? Very close...! (but not right- NEM isn't involved and the Kadee is set at the right height for 4mm scale, not the HO standard everyone uses.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The Vertical white band in the black stripe from the light clusters? The Vertical white band in the black stripe from the light clusters? Blame Hornby, they painted it.... The orange ets / eth cable thingie ( the orange electric box ) is on the side of the buffer beam - and should be on the front ? SGJ Also true, but not the really obvious error... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The Number should be at the back on this side? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 The Number should be at the back on this side? No, the number is correct. The buckeye was the closest guess... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pendlerail Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I am down to it sticks out too far or not a drophead buckeye, but would of thought there is Operational reasons for them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamphillip Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 well this deviated quickly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
43179 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 Can anyone spot the deliberate mistake...? Looks like the buffers are set back from the buffing plate , so they should really be rotated 90 degrees when they're in the retracted position. Jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
298 Posted January 30, 2014 Share Posted January 30, 2014 I am down to it sticks out too far or not a drophead buckeye, but would of thought there is Operational reasons for them? Looks like the buffers are set back from the buffing plate , so they should really be rotated 90 degrees when they're in the retracted position. Jon Yes, the buffers should be retracted with the buckeye raised. I did model a few 90's with the buffers rotated, but since we tried to standardize on kadees on passenger stock, most locos had them whether prototypical or not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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