BrushType4 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 Hi, I'm building a layout based on the TMD depot at Peterborough. My available layout space is just 450mm x 3600mm (1'6" x 12) plus fiddle yards at both ends. I've come up with the design below and would welcome your critique and suggestions! Edit. I forgot to mention it will be modelled in scale 7. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 If you where using Peco turnouts, you would lose about 8.5 feet of your 12 feet length to the pointwork (minimum). So, I expect in S7 that would be a similar loss. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 So, I expect in S7 that would be a similar loss. More like double the length , your best bet would be to find someone who is capable with Templot to map out the plan first to see if it's doable. And then build the track yourself which is not that hard to do, although a lot of folks on here think it's a black art it's not. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Martyn, Ill be building my own track work. :thumbs: Any thoughts on A5 switches? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
deltic17 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Sounds good - I will follow this with interest - BRBlue - can't wait! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugsley Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Any thoughts on A5 switches?Possibly a little too sharp. I used them in EM, and probably wouldn't again - I'm not sure how S7 stock would cope with them. Is there any scope to use B6's instead? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Glad to see your building your own trackwork, silly me of course you are unless Peco have suddenly gone down the S7 route , cheaper and much better looking in my opinion. As to A5 switches I have never built lower than a A6, and that did not look out of place so I can see no reason as to why you could not get away with it. Like I said before your best bet would be templot, because at least then you will know if your plan will fit in properly with the room you have got for the layout. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Any thoughts on A5 switches? I can honestly say that (IMO) B5s are a godsend to the space-starved modeller :-) The advice I was given was that B6s really should be the minimum for mainline turnouts which is fine as long as you've got the baseboard length to accommodate them – a B6 crossover is about 40" in length – and 'A' series turnouts, if you want to get prototypical, should be restricted to yards. My A5s, placed in a branch line setting, however don't look out of place or promote excessive overhang on a Bo-Bo diesel (again IMO). They might cause an issue with say a Class 40 or a long rigid wheelbase steam loco but since neither is going to turn up in such a setting that's not going to be a problem. If absolute prototypical fidelity isn't the primary objective I'd suggest it's all about what an individual modeler feels looks right and works well. I was amazed to discover that Andy Goulding's superb 'Courtover Town' (exhibited at Bristol earlier this month) features turnouts shorter and rather tighter than A5s, all individually built to fit available board space. The only issues he says he experiences is very occasional buffer locking when propelling some particularly long wheelbase modern wagons into (if I remember correctly) one short siding. I posted photos of one of my A5s in place before and after the first layer of ballast was applied (link will take you to the 'before' photo then scroll two posts down for 'after' ballasting). Perhaps these might help you decide whether A5s might be suitable for what you want to do? Look forward to seeing your progress :-) David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rambler Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 I think you're trying to pack an awful lot of pointwork into your limited length - is there any scope for putting the crossover by the signal box on the other side of the bridge, i.e. don't have one and use the fiddle yard for crossing over? Another idea is to use Y points, as you can getter a bigger offset in the same length when both tracks curve (or you can use shallower angles). I've gone for a more sparse design for my layout, which is shown in the attached Templot plan. It's based on Settrington (NER), it's also S7, and it fits on a 10ft 6" area, also with fiddle yards at each end. It uses two 1-in-8s and a 1-in-6 (for one side of the three way) - so far I've built the simple turnout and its 24" long...... Cheers, Eric Ramsay Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
daifly Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hope you don't mind my observation that the shunting neck is very short. It appears to be only long enough for a small loco plus 2 wagons whereas the sidings that it serves will hold perhaps 8 or more. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rambler Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hope you don't mind my observation that the shunting neck is very short. It appears to be only long enough for a small loco plus 2 wagons whereas the sidings that it serves will hold perhaps 8 or more. Dave Dave, A fair point....especially as I'd want fairly big engines (like an NER Class T 0-8-0) to be able to shunt the yard. There's scope for extending the neck, possibly even having it encroach into the fiddle yard. I'm restricted by the baseboards I've got, two 4' and one 2'6" - I might have to make a 4' replacement for the 2'6" board, which would also allow me to use (the more prototypical arrangement of) two plain turnouts instead of the three-way. However, to do that I'd need to find the baseboards in my garage..... Cheers, Eric. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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