Making Walls using Scalescenes paper.?

[250BOB]

I'm looking for some suggestions as to what backing material is favoured to stick the walling paper from scalescenes to.

 

Idealy 3 to 5mm thick, flexible for around curves, and will not warp at a later stage.

 

Thanks..................Bob.

[gwrrob]

I'm looking for some suggestions as to what backing material is favoured to stick the walling paper from scalescenes to.

 

Idealy 3 to 5mm thick, flexible for around curves, and will not warp at a later stage.

 

Thanks..................Bob.

 

Bob.You could try laminating two pieces of mounting board and sticking the Scalescene sheet to the front with pva perhaps.I know you can get 3mm plywood but mounting card is more readily available.

[dasatcopthorne]

Hi 250BOB

 

(Is that in old money):-)))

 

Depends on how small a radius you need to go round.

 

My favourite is 3mm MDF (from Wicks around here) but for sharp curves, I would agree with others that mounting board is good.

 

Mind you print the Scalescenes stuff on good paper and with waterproof or semi-waterproof ink. The Epsom inks are best for this. HP inks run like the blazes.

 

I bought a pack of paper especially for printing this type of thing. Epson Photo Quality Matte S041061. I see that sevendayshop.com have 100 sheets (Epson 410561) for ??11 + delivered. A bargain. However, best used with Epsom inks in an Epsom printer.

 

I bought an Epsom printer just for this, ??35.00 Make sure it used 4 x colour cartridges.

 

Dave Smith

[ian]

B&Q (other DIY supersheds are available) do sheets of bendy MDF - it has grooves routed out of the back so that it flexes nicely. Should go down to about 6" radius or so.

[Lady_Ava_Hay]

B&Q (other DIY supersheds are available) do sheets of bendy MDF - it has grooves routed out of the back so that it flexes nicely. Should go down to about 6" radius or so.

 

Would I not be right in thinking that walls round corners were flat sections all set an angle to each other? Is this not because laying to a curve is really difficult but laying to an angled butress was/is not?

 

Any brickies aboard?

[250BOB]

Hi 250BOB

 

(Is that in old money):-)))

 

Depends on how small a radius you need to go round.

 

My favourite is 3mm MDF (from Wicks around here) but for sharp curves, I would agree with others that mounting board is good.

 

Mind you print the Scalescenes stuff on good paper and with waterproof or semi-waterproof ink. The Epsom inks are best for this. HP inks run like the blazes.

 

I bought a pack of paper especially for printing this type of thing. Epson Photo Quality Matte S041061. I see that sevendayshop.com have 100 sheets (Epson 410561) for ??11 + delivered. A bargain. However, best used with Epsom inks in an Epsom printer.

 

I bought an Epsom printer just for this, ??35.00 Make sure it used 4 x colour cartridges.

 

Dave Smith

 

 

Thanks Dave......The 250BOB is said as two fifty bob......reason, check out my avatar, I used to race a 250cc Aprilia.

 

Thanks for all your advice.

[250BOB]

B&Q (other DIY supersheds are available) do sheets of bendy MDF - it has grooves routed out of the back so that it flexes nicely. Should go down to about 6" radius or so.

 

Hi Ian...hope you are well, certainly my two class 20's are, and now they sound great too.

 

Of course, I had fogotten about that bendy MDF....I'll check some out in a few days.

 

Bob

[250BOB]

Would I not be right in thinking that walls round corners were flat sections all set an angle to each other? Is this not because laying to a curve is really difficult but laying to an angled butress was/is not?

 

Any brickies aboard?

 

OF course......now that might be better than trying to do the bends, I'm sure there are bendy walls in places. However I shall have a wee re think to see if straight sections may be better.

Thanks Bob.

[ozthedog]

I am just in process of making a retaining wall with Scalescenes paper. I use foamboard for Scalescenes structures. It is available in 2/3/5mm thicknesses and easy to cut. It sticks well with superglue and the paper is glued onto the foamboard with 3M spray mount. Staples sell A3 sizes if anyone wants to try it . Much cheaper if bought in bulk but that means 8'x4' sizes which cost between ??10 & ??20 depending on thickness.

 

Heres the wall abouit to be capped.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[unravelled]

Modern brick walls tend to be built in panels using cement mortar, with expansion joints at suitable intervals. Panels may be straight or curved, as required. Older walls would have been built using lime mortar, without expansion joints, of any length needed, whether curved and straight.

Lime mortar holds the bricks apart, rather than sticks them togther, and is flexible enough to absorb the stresses of thermal expansion. The dowside of lime mortar is the need to protect the materal with weatherproof pointing layer, which ultmately will fail through thermal action, reguiring repointing. The weakness of lime mortar can be seen during demolition when bricks can be picked of the top of an old wall by hand. Good for recycling.

One good contrast between old and new bricwork is their reaction to subsidence. old brickwork sags, new brickwork cracks, often through the bricks themselves

 

 

One of the problems of a curved wall is that vertical mortar joints will have to be widened on the outside, and pinched on the inner face. This could be fudged by abandoning the headers and represnting then by half bricks keeping the bond looking right on both sides. Very tight curves will be built in all headers, or rather as two layers of half bricks, making it look as if it's all headers, with even mortar joints showing.

 

An example of a long curving brick wall without expansion joints is the one along Lambeth Palace Road. The oval used to be a smooth curve but is now rebuilt as flat panels. These should be viewable on google streetview.

 

hth

 

Dave

[taylork]

Hi 250Bob / Keith

I have used a fair amount of the foamboard mentioned but the stuff I get is self adhesive on one side, much like self adhesive labels etc. Haven't had any 'demounting ' probs (as yet ) I does have a natural predispositon to making curved walls which means extra bracing required for 'flat' walls. I have also used the self adhesive label paper and printed straight onto it with the same degree of success.

I use an old HP printer because most of the modern stuff wont print on clear transparencies ( for windows )Most of my buildings use photos of suitable or actual windows of the buildings being modelled, I also find that the less colour definition of the old unit gives a more decrepit look to the late 40's era buildings of Wigan.

Kevan T

[250BOB]

Thanks everyone for all your most helpful replies on this topic.

 

Its all good stuff for me to mull over while making my mind up which and what way to do things.

 

Bob.