Jump to content
 

Updating old Lima GWR King locomotive

alderson.eric.j

Recommended Posts

alderson.eric.j

alderson.eric.j

Posted
Posted

Hi there, 

 

This little question I'm asking myself (as I've never done this before) : is it possible and not too difficult to change the motor & wheels of an old Lima GWR King locomotive ? About detailing it I should be able to do it, but I'm no specialist in the mechanical and electrical domain of expertise (I'm even a Non-Entity in Electronics...) Also, is it worth it (knowing the price of actual productions from Bachmann or Hornby...)

 

This because I found two old "King George V" locomotives at a really interesting price in a train show (around £ 18 each) and the two are lettered with the "Great Western" letters and "Coat Of Arms" logo on the tender and are lined (I plan to modify one to make the King Edward II) ?

 

Thanks in advance for your help,


Ricky.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Horsetan

Horsetan

Posted
Posted

Hi there, 

 

This little question I'm asking myself (as I've never done this before) : is it possible and not too difficult to change the motor & wheels of an old Lima GWR King locomotive ? About detailing it I should be able to do it, but I'm no specialist in the mechanical and electrical domain of expertise (I'm even a Non-Entity in Electronics...) Also, is it worth it ....

 

I did this in school way way back in 1984 with a secondhand Lima "King Charles II" bought for a tenner from a shop in York. In some ways it was a better basis than the first-version Hornby "King" which had an awful boiler skirt.

 

Out came the bogie and driving wheels, replaced by Romfords and Jacksons (bought from a shop in Stockport). The chimney was replaced by a Craftsman double chimney (just 41p each back then!) plus many other King-related castings from Crownline (in many ways I wish their range - or the modern equivalent of it - was still around).

 

The whole lot was brush-repainted in BR green, with PC Models "Pressfix" transfers. It looked good, and ran sort-of OK; I'd retained the original tender drive.

 

I then made the mistake of exhibiting it in the school art and design exhibition for the end-of-term Speech Day. It was promptly stolen, and the school had to compensate me from their insurance. Since the Lima "King" was no longer available new, it was replaced by the then new Mainline 66xx plus a Collett Third, diag. C77

Link to post
Share on other sites
alderson.eric.j

alderson.eric.j

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, Horsetan, for the information. 

 

Romford & Jackson wheels I should be able to find easily by Gaugemaster.com, I think, and the decals are available (I already have them) from HMRS. But about Crownline and other details, I don't really know where to find them... Would you have any insight on what to buy, knowing I think I'll retain the single chimney and paint the second one too in GWR paint scheme for the WWII era ?

 

Thanks again for your help,


Ricky.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Horsetan

Horsetan

Posted
Posted

.....But about Crownline and other details, I don't really know where to find them... Would you have any insight on what to buy, knowing I think I'll retain the single chimney and paint the second one too in GWR paint scheme for the WWII era ?

 

Thanks again for your help,

 

Ricky.

 

Markits wheels are a better (more realistic) successor to Romfords nowadays, but very expensive now.

 

As for detail castings, contact -

 

- South Eastern Finecast (they produce a full "King" whitemetal kit, and sell every single casting separately as spare parts),

- David Geen (who produces the top-notch Malcolm Mitchell "King" kit, and may be willing to sell detail castings as spares), and

- Springside Models (an excellent King single chimney with a proper copper cap, plus a peerless short safety valve bonnet which even has the separate springs inside!).

Link to post
Share on other sites
Horsetan

Horsetan

Posted
Posted

...Romford & Jackson wheels I should be able to find easily .....

 

I almost forgot:

 

Romford / Markits driving wheels generally run with 1/8" axles. The axle slots in the Lima chassis are somewhat narrower, and you would have to risk opening them out to take the larger diameter. I remember taking a big risk, with only a Stanley knife to assist, to take slices out of the chassis. I was really relieved when it all revolved properly.

 

If you are ordering from Gaugemaster, ask them to supply your driving wheels with 3mm diameter axles - Markits do make these. That may make your job easier.

Link to post
Share on other sites
alderson.eric.j

alderson.eric.j

Posted
  • Author
Posted

OK. As I'm planning to go to Arundel this August (firstly to show the shop to a friend, then to buy my HST - souvenir of my first rail trip to Britain in 1985), I'll get the opportunity to have a look at what they have to help me. About the chimney and other details, I'll see if there is a superdetail kit, or I'll browse in the GWR detail parts available in the shop... 

 

Thanks again for your help,

Ricky.

Link to post
Share on other sites
B15nac

B15nac

Posted
Posted

I would like a really good king! I've got a couple newer Hornby kings but that massive gap at the front above the bogie makes it look very dated! I'm not sure what option to go for! What good kit kings are still available? Or if anything can be done to improve the current Hornby model!

 

Regards Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites
Horsetan

Horsetan

Posted
Posted

.....What good kit kings are still available? Or if anything can be done to improve the current Hornby model!

 

 

 

Kits - only two. There's South Eastern Finecast (whitemetal mostly); or

 

Malcolm Mitchell (via David Geen - all etched brass plus brass castings)

 

 

The Mitchell kit is light years ahead, and the etchings are a work of art.

 

As far as the Hornby King is concerned, you can get useful castings as described above, but there is no all-round Crownline-type detail kit as such.

Link to post
Share on other sites
B15nac

B15nac

Posted
Posted

Ok thanks for the info! I think half the problem with a lot of older models is the lack of injectors under the footplate but I never seem to be able to find somewhere to get them! I'm very tempted to super detail a Hornby king!

 

Regards Neil

Link to post
Share on other sites
Coach bogie

Coach bogie

Posted
Posted

Kits - only two. There's South Eastern Finecast (whitemetal mostly); or

 

Malcolm Mitchell (via David Geen - all etched brass plus brass castings)

 

 

The Mitchell kit is light years ahead, and the etchings are a work of art.

You and I with the Battle of the Brass again

 

Mitchell is an excellent kit but over complicated and as mentioned in previous posts, even David Geen now sells after sales parts to reduce the build time to mak the kit more attractive. The front end is very complex, being designed for working inside motion. Supplied as flat etches leaving the builder to roll all the parts, though David will roll the boiler if asked.

 

The Wills is more builder friendly, with the added advantage of weight. The one below hauls sixteen BSL kit built coaches without additional weight.

 

Other kit is the Jamieson.A bit dated now but one of the easier Jamiesons to build, especially if you subsitute a Comet chassis.

 

In rtr there is also the Fulgurex brass version that is an excellent model (dare you to ask David Geen how many of these are running on his layout!) See for yourself here

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220872820142?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

Four images to compare - Hornby, Wills, Jamieson, Farish (with Comet chassis)

 

Mike Wiltshire

post-9992-0-89903900-1365784930_thumb.jpg

post-9992-0-34613000-1365784939_thumb.jpg

post-9992-0-54036100-1365784949_thumb.jpg

post-9992-0-48042900-1365784955_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • RMweb Gold
gwrrob

gwrrob

Posted
  • RMweb Gold
Posted

Here is my abandoned project using the Hornby King body [70s moulding] on a Comet chassis.It has the Wills/SE Finecast front bogie.Never been happy with it and it sits in a drawer patiently waiting for me to revive it. ;)

 

I've often wondered how many Mitchell kits are actually used on layouts.Lovely well detailed kits.

post-126-0-31395600-1365786825_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
Stringfingerling

Stringfingerling

Posted
Posted

I would go with the Comet chassis - I did this with an Airfix Castle, Markits and Mashima motor and I was very happy with the result.  The Comet chassis is not that difficult to put together, and being a 4-6-0 there is no big need for compensation or anything.  I built mine to EM gauge and it worked fine, the only reason it is now out of use is because I went into "O" gauge

 

I'm not sure about the economics of this project; one way or another putting things together from bits can be expensive, but you do learn a lot and it's fun.

 


Here is my abandoned project using the Hornby King body [70s moulding] on a Comet chassis.It has the Wills/SE Finecast front bogie.Never been happy with it and it sits in a drawer patiently waiting for me to revive it. ;)

 

I've often wondered how many Mitchell kits are actually used on layouts.Lovely well detailed kits.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Jim Bob

Jim Bob

Posted
Posted

 

I would go with the Comet chassis - I did this with an Airfix Castle, Markits and Mashima motor and I was very happy with the result.  The Comet chassis is not that difficult to put together, and being a 4-6-0 there is no big need for compensation or anything.  I built mine to EM gauge and it worked fine, the only reason it is now out of use is because I went into "O" gauge

 

I'm not sure about the economics of this project; one way or another putting things together from bits can be expensive, but you do learn a lot and it's fun.

 

 

 

Sorry to slightly hijack this thread but, the issue of "economics" does interest me. I bought an Airfix Castle from a certain well-known auction site, fairly cheaply) and have asked the same question as to accuracy of the model and what is available to upgrade the body, without spending even more money on an improved chassis and changing the noisy tender drive.

 

In the end, I think, for me, it comes down to how much of a rivet counter are you and how much detail do you incorporate into your entire railway layout? Remembering that, as modellers, we are sometimes only an inch away from our subjects, we see all the detail and imperfections. From a viewers perspective, however, I suspect it is more about "atmosphere" and how much can you you "suspend your disbelief" that this is not a real scene?.

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...