Grimly Feendish Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 It nay not make much sense, but has anybody done this? How difficult was it? I have a Mainline body that I'm tarting up and am looking at ways to improve the underframe detail and drive. So I wondered if it would just be easier to find a Hornby chassis. I said it didn't make sense :-) Thanks, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I'd detail the existing underframe (providing the model runs well). From my blog; http://eastmoor.blogspot.co.uk/2007/12/grids.html A little bit of work around the underframe and it'll make a huge difference, even just removing the webbing between the suspension units will lift things to the next level; Have a look at Jim Smith-Wright's article (where I stole my method from) here too; http://www.p4newstreet.com/articlePDFs/Update%2042%20class%2056.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted September 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 23, 2013 Neither of those links works for me James ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 You just weren't trying hard enough! The software does seem to have a mind of its own when it comes to URLs I've noticed... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted September 23, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 23, 2013 Ah, that's better. I have a small desire for a banger blue 56 from the early batch like I got a cab ride in all those years ago at Toton, can't justify the Hornby one just to sit in a box but a bit of modelling with a Mainline one might find it's way onto the workbench just for nostalgia Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 There's a bit of work involved but it's quite doable - a few pounds in Mr Hanson's pocket and you'll have a few bits to enhance the body and correct the grilles for the earlier version. The key thing is 'rounding off' the existing cab. The aluminium cabs are much 'softer' in appearance with gentler curves to its edges. This makes a huge difference to the finished model. The other bit is the valance - I just permanently fitted the bufferbeams to the body and built that up in 40 thou Plastikard. Very strong and cheap! EDIT: Spelling... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimly Feendish Posted September 24, 2013 Author Share Posted September 24, 2013 James, Yes, I've seen Jim's article and will go down that route. Did you do the drive conversion too? Your conversion looks great! Thanks for the advice, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 I didn't do the drive conversion as the loco ran very well as it was! I do have a two Hornby bogie powered chassis for use one day which should be able to pull a house down! Jim actually got me three of the PA-1s mentioned in the article for conversion but I've not got round to them yet! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_long Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 Its a shame that the bogie side frames from the new version only come as part of the drive unit, as command £20 each unit! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 I did it a while ago. The body is a Hornby one, but from the same tooling as the old Mainline/Dapol one. It fits but it is a tight squeeze. I had to remove some plastic from the front (lower rear edge of the nose) so the chassis block could be squeezed in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheesysmith Posted September 25, 2013 Share Posted September 25, 2013 Can you show us a side on view of your mew chassis on a old body as in that photo it looks like the new chassis is a bit longer than the old body. The buffer beams look like they stick out beyond the body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Do you think? Maybe its where the top lip of the bufferbeam needs touching up with paint where it meets the yellow nose. I think the dark area makes it seems like there is a big protrusion. In reality I don't think there's much. Remember the front of the nose curves around to the sides too. At the middle of the nose there's no protrusion, perhaps there's just a touch above the buffer shanks where the curve meets the cabside panel. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 I think the bufferbeams are too far forward, relative to the cabs - 56303 by isephoto, on Flickr Not much in it, but just enough to make you question it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimly Feendish Posted September 28, 2013 Author Share Posted September 28, 2013 Thanks for everyones input. After some thought, I've decided to go down the PA-1 route. The main reason for me to do this project is to improve my skills, so it's a good excuse for taking the more involved route! If you are interested, I've started a forum thread here to document my efforts Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 28, 2013 Share Posted September 28, 2013 Thanks for everyones input. After some thought, I've decided to go down the PA-1 route. The main reason for me to do this project is to improve my skills, so it's a good excuse for taking the more involved route! If you are interested, I've started a forum thread here to document my efforts Great stuff! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviesparx Posted September 29, 2013 Share Posted September 29, 2013 I have a Mainline body that I'm tarting up and am looking at ways to improve the underframe detail and drive. So I wondered if it would just be easier to find a Hornby chassis.... I do have a couple of Hornby 'new 56' running chassis if of interest..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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