How to fit Slaters insulated hornblocks to a tender....

[JeffP]

Hi, when fitting Slaters insulated hornblocks to an 8-wheel tender, is it OK to fit all four on one side followed by the four on the other side using rods/graph paper to get the spacing right, and line them up?

 

 

Or should each PAIR be done together?

 

And do folk normally pin these after gluing? I'm using Devcon 2 ton epoxy. And toying with the idea of all wheel pickup using split axles.........I will probably insulate the brake blocks with tape, or glue, on the faces. Or will I?

 

Maybe YOU know better?

 

Thanks for any advice as usual. And yes, it is "Alcazar".

[ozzyo]

Hello JeffP,

 

I think that if I was setting them up I'd do a pair at a time using rods with a spring to hold them on to the frames while the glue sets. You maybe able to do all four sets in one go. If you put them under a lamp I find that the glue will set better.

 

A lot of people will also use small screws as well, about 10 or 12 BA. Tapped through the frames and horn guides.

 

OzzyO.

[JeffP]

Thanks Ozzy.

The bearings seem quite a tight fit into the hornblock open end, should I ease them in hot water?

[John_Hughes]

I've used them in a couple of locos and find they work pretty well if fastened in place with a tiny drop of superglue.

 

Before fixing the hornblocks I give the bearings a couple of wipes with a file, but only enough to make them slide easily; absolutely no lateral movement should be there, but they need to run completely freely under the spring pressure.

 

Once each bearing is working with its own hornblock, it needs to stay with the same block and in the same alignment, so it's a good idea to mark both with a little dot of paint to avoid them getting mixed up if they're subsequently dis-assembled.

[JeffP]

Thanks, I usually give the bearings a notch with a triangular file on the top, and the same on the hornblock, sort of, one left, one right, two left, etc etc towards the front of the bearing, so they can't go on the wrong side.

 

Anyone got any comments on the idea of using split axles for pickups?

 

And I've been LOOKING at the idea of making the brake-gear removable......

[chaz]

Strikes me that for a tender you don't have to be quite so accurate in the fitting as you have no coupling rods to worry about. Providing they look parallel and in line that should suffice.

[JeffP]

Yep..hence the hornblocks...the last attempt had wheels pointing every which way. This one will be done as accurately as I can.

[ozzyo]

Yep..hence the hornblocks...the last attempt had wheels pointing every which way. This one will be done as accurately as I can.

 

The best way to do that, is to solder two strips of scrap together and drill all of the axle centres in them so that you can use some temp. axles to set all of the axle centres. Just the same as you would if you were setting up a set of engine frames.

 

OzzyO.   

[N15class]

I try to make the brake gear on locos and tenders removable. I you use 1mm wire thread the ends 14BA and use a nut to hold them on.

 

As for Slaters plastic horn guides they are best screwed on aswall as glue. I would not rely on glue alone.

[Sandy Harper]

Jeff

Have a look at my '7mm Bulldog' build where I used Slaters insulated hornblocks

 

Hope this helps

Regards

Sandy