Father Dougal Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Dougal, Have you built the chassis rigid? If so, how does it run? I am following this carefully as I'm trying to decide whether to buy the Agenoria kit or the JLTRT kit or take the long view and wait for the Dapol offering. Chris PS I've just noticed you are in Bristol, which is where I was born dragged up. Hello there Mr Klein! The kit can be built rigid or with compensation. I have followed the instructions for a compensated chassis- basically two of the axles float. The Axle top hat bearings are secured to a washer that reduces any sloppy side play. Bit of a b#%*€r to avoid soldering the top hat bearing to the chassis, but once done it appears to work ok.The instructions suggest inserting a scrap of paper whilst soldering the axle top hat to the washer thingy. Worked for me. D P.s I am in Bristol, but I am a foreigner from Gloucestershire! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Hello there Mr Klein! The kit can be built rigid or with compensation. I have followed the instructions for a compensated chassis- basically two of the axles float. The Axle top hat bearings are secured to a washer that reduces any sloppy side play. Bit of a b#%*€r to avoid soldering the top hat bearing to the chassis, but once done it appears to work ok. The instructions suggest inserting a scrap of paper whilst soldering the axle top hat to the washer thingy. Worked for me. D P.s I am in Bristol, but I am a foreigner from Gloucestershire! Could you take a photo of the compensation beam? One bodge I have used to make sliding honrblocks is to drill sheet brass or nickelsilver of a suitable thickness with holes to the outside diamater of the axle bearings. I then cut the a rectangle around the hole. I then elongate the axle hole in the frame by about 0.5mm above and below the centre line, insert the bearing, place a paper washer over the bearing on the inside of the frame, place the rectangle over the washer and solder it to the bearing. The final step is to ensure the rectangle is vertical, cut a small length of square brass tubing and solder it in place alongside the inside plate to prevent the bearing rotating. It is a lot more tedious to describe than to do. It's a bit of lash-up, but works perfectly and costs virtually nothing. I'll try to take a photo. The memsahib comes from Gloucester and most of her family still live there. Regards, Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Just taken a couple of photos of the super-simple, cheapo compensation lash-up on my Cambrian 15 class 0-6-0. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Dougal, Have you built the chassis rigid? If so, how does it run? I am following this carefully as I'm trying to decide whether to buy the Agenoria kit or the JLTRT kit or take the long view and wait for the Dapol offering. Chris PS I've just noticed you are in Bristol, which is where I was born dragged up. Or try the MMP offering? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted September 4, 2015 Author Share Posted September 4, 2015 Could you take a photo of the compensation beam? Regards, Chris Good evening Mr Klein, sir. Here are a few photo's. They may not be a huge help as the compensation is just elongated axle holes with a washer to stop the wheels moving sidewards. It is simple, but it works really well. The kit does have a provision for hornblocks, but you have to source this separately. D On the subject of Gloucester, I was nearly born in the toilet of Berkely Hospital, as my mother wanted to watch the end of 'The man from Uncle' I apparently had other ideas! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 It's been 2 weeks since I last had some free time to do some more work on my forst gronk. The chassis assemblies are now finished. Here are a few shots of the various assemblies shortly after being washed. I only managed to break off two items during cleaning - a sand pipe and a brake shoe. I will reattach these after lunch. I need to clean up my messy solder and open out the pre- drilled holes for the plungers, then I can paint the chassis! I was a bit shocked to find my wheels had rusted so much in 2 weeks! Here is one of the offending wheels. Not long now and I can start the body shell. I guess I had best pick a prototype soon. D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 I was a bit shocked to find my wheels had rusted so much in 2 weeks! Here is one of the offending wheels. Hi Father D, Chassis components are looking good. Why don't you chemically blacken the wheels? If you go to your local Gunsmiths, and ask for Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, Liquid Gun Blue. You can blacken the steel and it reduces considerably the rusting effect. Plus the bonus is it'll still conduct electrickery and you won't have to paint them!!! Jinty Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Hi Father D,Chassis components are looking good.Why don't you chemically blacken the wheels?If you go to your local Gunsmiths, and ask for Birchwood Casey Perma Blue, Liquid Gun Blue. You can blacken the steel and it reduces considerably the rusting effect. Plus the bonus is it'll still conduct electrickery and you won't have to paint them!!!Jinty Thanks Jinty, just bought the air gun super blue version on Amazon for £11.50. D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 The 08 is coming along nicely now with a few modifications. I will post another time. I got a bit distracted building this. I am very pleased with how the CDA has come out. Next step is tone every thing down with dirt and then clay. The kit is PRMRP offering. It was ok to build, but I had to learn a new level of brass Origami to fold the complicated shape of the CDA. Last week end I ordered my super- duper new shed to house my new layout. I plan to run a rake of CDA's and have a small clay dry. Now, I really must ignore the other 4 CDA kits and get back to that gronk. D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Oh yes! A bit of lateral thinking resulted in trying. Snow effect weathing spray. After a quick test piece, I did this. Really going to find it hard to ignore the other CDA kits now! D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 I decided to have a splurge today and picked up two Bachmann Brass works locos for an excellent price at my local hobby shop. I have a small collection on Black steam to represent the early time frame for my layout. These two round my simple collection off nicely. First up, the 4MT As you can see, she is already painted black. Next up is my 4F The 4f is still a bit naked in brass. I need to do a spot of research now and pick a few prototypes to model. I will probably only apply very mild weathering. D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Father Dougal Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Yesterday, I finished another quickie. I renovated my class 02 shunter and fitted a delrin chain to improve performance. She runs better now, but not perfectly. I think she will remain on light duties. Today I cracked on with the gronk. The body shell is starting to come together nicely. Lots of cleaning up and a little filling needed, but if does look like an 08 now. I added extra tool boxes on mine to match the prototype I am building. I used a bit of spare brass sheet and a few pieces of spare sprue I had. I need to add loads of extra details to bring everything together. The next task is to do the cab, once I buy more solder and a new tip for the iron! D. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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