DanielB Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Hello there 7mm modellers! More and more recently at my club rooms I find myself drawn across the hall from the N gauge room to the O gauge room to check on the progress of their new layout. Coupled with a love of the Industrial and Micro Layouts on show here on RMWeb, and the seed planted in the back of my mind by Jim Read and his wonderful micro layout at Mansfield show earlier this year, I'm leaning more and more toward taking the plunge in the "senior scale" - albiet 30 years early! As my budget is practically none-existent at the moment I've been looking at whatever I can to bring down my costs, even so far as scratch building all my rolling stock, and - scary notion ahead - building my own track and points. So I thought I would start this thread for all the experienced modellers of 7mm Layouts to put forward their tips and tricks at saving money, shortcuts and alternatives to expensive products, and generally help anyone put off by the "But O Gauge is so EXPENSIVE!" mindset. I'm sure Jim himself will be in here shortly to show his wonderful method of creating scratchbuilt wagons, and I'm sure Lord Bodgit will have a few pieces of sage advice for us all, too! Lets see if we (i.e. you!) can encourage others to take the plunge like I have! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyWales Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Hi Daniel.... Good post.... Normally locomotive sounds in 7mm might be low on the priority list for those who are trying to keep costs under control - especially beginners. However, a brilliant idea was posted yesterday in the DCC Sounds forum which uses a single 4mm sound decoder to provide sounds for four separate locomotives (albeit only one a at time) through speakers located around the layout. Ideal for microlayouts..... So your "Starter for Ten".... http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79095-cheaper-dcc-sound/ Randall Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Marry someone with a good income ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 O gauge is a good builder's scale. Have a go at scratch building or kit bashing things. In N gauge you might have had 30 to 40 16t mineral wagons but 3 to 4 do in O scale Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 It is possible to acquire cheap(ish) locos and rolling stock from (particularly) the bring and buy and executor service stalls at O Gauge Guild events. That well-known internet auction site can be a source of bargains, although much seems to depend on who else is bidding. Personally I should advise choosing a less popular prototype rather than the era(s)/organisations that the majority model, because obviously, demand is lower. Second trick of economy is only to buy stuff you really need for the project - don't be tempted to buy everything you find 'attractive' or you will end up spending a fortune. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Hi Dan, Nice of you to bring my layout into your post, thanks :-) After talking to John Fownes at the Sherwood show and taking some advice from him. I'm going to rebuild the chassis on the loco in my profile pic. I'm going to use card to do it and will start a thread, but not sure whether to do in this forum or the card one or the scratchbuilding one. Here's a pic of some wagons that I am (very) gradually making, Following John's advice I've bought some 0.6 mm card from Rymans and it's really strong stuff and will make great axle boxes. Thanks for starting this Dan it's my opinion that 0 Gauge is both the cheapest and at the same time the most expensive of the small scales. Personally I get a great deal of pleasure out making something myself than ever I could from writing a cheque. And when I started I was all fingers and thumbs abitliketypingwithonefinger. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Kirk Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Hi, Even if you were to scratch build your own locomotives the components themselves can be quite expensive. If you are building a large locomotive to haul long trains then a good quality motor/gearbox is required but for minimum space shunting layout and small locos 00 motors, particularly the old style ones are quite adequate. In fact where space permits you can use a cut down Triang chassis with X04 motor as a motor/gearbox. These are always available second hand and with a little TLC the motors go on for ever. As a challenge I once produced a working O gauge locomotive for around £15. Apart from the Plastikard for the body the only thing I purchased was a second hand Triang L1 and a length of 5/64ths silver steel rod (the diameter of Triang axles.) I alternately cut and filled (epoxy filler) the spokes to give the impression of an industrial driving wheel and made O gauge length axles. These were then fitted back into the original chassis with suitable spacers. The original coupling rods /screws were re-used. This gave a working chassis near enough to the 6ft wheelbase of a small industrial. I fabricated outside cylinders and used the cross head /con rods from a scrapped Hornby Dublo loco (50+ years of modelling give you a well filled scrap box). The body and dummy mainframes were Plastikard and was a Barclay style saddletank. I am afraid that I did not photograph it before I gave it away so I can not show it here but I hope the above description gives you the idea. best wishes, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turin 60 Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Marry someone with a good income ... Honestly Jack! John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted November 30, 2013 Share Posted November 30, 2013 Honestly Jack! John. Well, its gotta be easier than glueing your fingers together trying to make a loco out of old yoghurt pots Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devonbelle Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Thought provoking, I've found that shows like the annual Winchester continental o gauge shows are great for bargains off the bring and buy stand, or some other stands, with s/h locos in O cheaper than new steam or diesel models in OO, even if it's the old Lima diesel shunter for 20 quid, they not bad chassis / motor and a good basis for a scratch built plastikard body. The well known internet site for items can be a good find, but if others are chasing or just heroically over priced then avoid. I recently (in last 6 months) acquired an o gauge 6 wheel Atlas diesel shunter for 33 pounds, ok it's US outlined but runs like a dream, I've seen butchered versions to make them look like UK industrial diesels, and a few as steamers, with tram engine skirting - very pleasing to the eye. Best of luck let us know how you get on Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted December 1, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 1, 2013 Just occasionally you'll find UK outline models on ebay that are mislabelled. If they are in totally the wrong location you might get a total steal. These are very few and far between but they are out there. This way I picked up a brass 57xx for £20 + postage. It needed a new gear to make it run but after I'd done that it was great. A fraction more detail would have been good but it has a lovely paint finish and the extra detail can be added slowly as funds allow. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
switcher 1 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Atlas diesel shunter I've seen them converted to many things, not just '0' gauge, some are now 16mm NG, or even a 7/8ths scale MG loco. (Confession:- I have 3 to convert, some time in the future.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordson Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Dan, I too was inspired by Jims layout at Mansfield. In my case I haven't been involved in railway modelling for over 40 years and Jim has inspired me to have a go again. I am just in the process of dismantling (destroying) some old Hornby Dublo (2 rail) and Playcraft (remember them?) track to stick the rails to some cardboard sleepers, a la Jim Reid, to produce my first piece of 0 gauge track. Although I have purchased a couple of Slaters wagon kits for starters I too am keeping an eye on Jim's posts and those in the cardboard construction area. As a restarter I would say go on have a go with O Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Just nabbed a couple of old Lima wagons on that well known auction site, we shall see what becomes of it! Worst case scenario I'll have something to run on the Society O Gauge layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 I bought this 0 Gauge Hunslet through eBay for £85. It is the old 85A kit, but was built and beautifully painted and lined. I had to replace a missing buffer head, some broken handrails and the reversing lever. I added extra detail in the form of sanding levers, guard rails over the bunker spectacles, hand brake in the cab, extra steps, sand-pipes, lamp irons and works and name plates. I fitted a DCC sound unit and weathered the loco. Everything except the DCC equipment and the Hunslet works plates came from the scrap box. Restoration cost less the optional DCC (£85) was about £8 for the works plates. I later sold it for about £450 on eBay as I have rather a lot of industrial tank locos from another source. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I'm another 0 gauger that can't afford the new £200 RTR locos never mind the £500 stuff. I have a baseboard made from skip raided insulation board and thin ply with Jim Read style trackwork made with 2nd hand 00 flexitrack rails and cardboard sleepers from ring binders that work were throwing out. Ballast is tea leaves and sand. I do put a few copperclad pcb sleepers into the pointwork and board joints to add some strength. A good souce of cheap wagons are 70's 3H kits (already built) either from ebay or guild shows. They seem to sell for £7 -£15 which can be cheaper than buying wheels and couplings for a scratchbuild. My best bargain was buying 100 plastic coupling hooks from Cambrian models for a couple of quid. I make the links to go with them by wrapping 0.8mm welding wire round a scrap bit of aluminium that I've filed to shape and cutting through them with a piercing saw. Ask a welder nicely and he should be able to get you lengths of scrap wire fom when he changes the reel. My layout thread is here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64880-leintwardine-teme-valley-light-railway/&do=findComment&comment=1173091 and really needs an update. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted December 3, 2013 Author Share Posted December 3, 2013 Well, the plunge has officially been taken! Went out to a local model shop on my lunch break and had a browse through their second hand section. Managed to get 2 Hornby Class 08's cannibalise for spares to make some industrial locos from, as well as 3 handbuilt points, for a grand total of £70. Result! A little more than I can really afford but I'm sure my overdraft can take the hit until after xmas! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike knowles Posted December 4, 2013 Share Posted December 4, 2013 As my budget is practically none-existent at the moment I've been looking at whatever I can to bring down my costs, even so far as scratch building all my rolling stock, and - scary notion ahead - building my own track and points. When we proposed building an O Gauge layout at our club I did some comparisons on costs for C&L/Exactosclae handbuilt track against PECO RTR, see below. Track cost comparison 7mm.pdf Note that the handbuilt costs are based on using ply sleepers cut by us from a sheet (not that difficult) and as can be seen the handbuilt track wins on cost grounds. Plus it looks better and you have the pleasure and satisfaction of building it yourself! Note these costings were done about 18 months ago so actual prices may have changed. Track cost comparison 7mm.xls Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted December 4, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 4, 2013 If you have access to an A3 colour printer then OO gauge scalescenes kits can be enlarged by 1.75 (175%) to O gauge, all the buildings on Fourgig East are built this way. All my track is hand built for a fraction of the cost of RTP track. Baseboards are constructed from reclaimed 15mm packing case ply - free from work http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/534-fourgig-east/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielB Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Has anyone got any tips for weighting down locos and rolling stock cheaply? I've got a cardboard Peckett saddle tank in the works and am wondering how to improve the performance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 Has anyone got any tips for weighting down locos and rolling stock cheaply? I've got a cardboard Peckett saddle tank in the works and am wondering how to improve the performance. If you know a roofer you might find he can supply lead offcuts for little or nothing, but don't stick them with PVA (see other postings for the problems with this) - failing which you could use car wheel balace weights as I do, they come with a self-adhesive strip to fix them, and are easily separated into sections of 5 or10 grammes. Check out Ebay as an example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25-Adhesive-Lead-Free-60G-Strips-Stick-On-Wheel-Balance-Weights-Cars-Motorbike-/200934829774?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyre_Trims_Trims_ET&hash=item2ec8a62ece#ht_1888wt_721 Works out around 30p per wagon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 It's not up to lead standards, but old copper coinage is decently heavy, fairly malleable (anneal it on the kitchen stove) and doesn't cost much . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted December 12, 2013 Share Posted December 12, 2013 This answers a question of Dan's that I said I would post part of here, it maybe of use to someone else. Hello Dan, The bodies of all the locos I've got are made from Plastikard, having said that though to make the actual saddle tank from card what I would do is make it square from layers to begin with, shellac it and then using some very rough sandpaper make the shape of the tank then shellac that. Put the sandpaper on something flat and move the tank not the other way round. Shellac it again and smooth it off and then wrap some damp cartridge paper around it glued with white glue. Fill the inside with cut strips of roofing lead glued in with Araldite. I used the same technique for the Plastikard. In this post you can see a bit of shellaced tube I made to see if it could be used for a boiler. It's cartridge paper soaked in water, covered in white glue and rolled up and it's really strong. I would be able to get very close to an actual boiler diameter by the amount of layers despite using a small former to begin with. Once coated with shellac it's really stiff and can be smoothed easily with sandpaper.http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69670-moxley-bull-lane-7mm-micro/?p=1005604 Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted December 12, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 12, 2013 I forgot to say I know a roofer Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted December 17, 2013 Share Posted December 17, 2013 A really cheap way to build a chassis is to use 1" aluminium U-channel and a pillar drill. Done right, you can actually make a very good (but rigid) chassis and if you work out where to put the holes, it can eliminate the need to purchase a gearbox. Only the gearset itself would be necessary (like the Tower models Barclay) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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