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O Gauge on a budget - share your tips and tricks!


DanielB

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'Eight wagons' is a totally notional figure. I suppose the point I was making is that in O Gauge quality is to be preferred to quantity. Most of us only really have room for something like a small branch terminus, a small shunting yard, or a loco shed/modern traction equivalent. If you can discipline yourself to only buy what the layout can accommodate, that is a big saving in itself. A typical 'Ashburton' sort of setting needs maybe 2 engines, two coaches and maybe 8/10 wagons. A tiny shunting yard needs less - probably no coaches for a start. The loco shed set-up is the one that could demand dangerous levels of £££££s. 

 

A lot of fun can be had upgrading and detailing wagons. Much of this can be done with simple, cheap materials if cost is a big issue. In this scale each individual model has its own character, and with careful detailing and weathering can look quite special. I think a relative handful of wagons that have been worked on to take them above average quality, can give more satisfaction than a large number of run-of-the-mill ones that are the same as everyone else's. 

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O Scale on a Budget - a meagre budget of course; there's some serious money swilling around at the top end of the hobby, which is still a budget, of sorts!!!

But for "mere mortals" budgets, I'd agree with some of the comments already made. O Scale does cut down on Impulse Shopping; think a lot more carefully about what you really do need for a layout, as opposed to just want. The size of O Scale helps with the "feel" of a layout; a loco and a few wagons look more impressive in O than the smaller scales; similar thing with simple track plans that might look too boring or lacking in operational value in the smaller scales.

Not sure about the Self Discipline thing though - years ago I used to have 7 N Scale Soo Line locos; now, I also have 7 Soo Line locos - in O scale!!! Plus a few more USA ones and a few British! And whereas I never thought I'd be able to afford O and DCC as well, most of my US locos are now DCC, a few with sound. Yes a much better-paid job than when I was modelling N has helped (although a wife and lad haven't!) but it's all about taking a long-term view. Acquiring models may take longer in O than OO or N, but a collection does build up, over time. That's how I've done it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Interesting thread. I've scratch built buildings in O from cardboard - total cost 8 pounds, card, some wills embossed roof tiles (OO scale) painted with tester household paints. The results are left hand side in shot - Cafe Rene and the Epicerie fine. The station building behind the locos was two Bachmann cape cod plasticville cottages from a well known model shop in Liverpool - fiver each. Then cut and shut one on top of other. One of the BB67 locos in shot was 12 pounds at a bring and buy at a model show 6 years ago. Repainted after fitting with wire handrails from scrap box, and screw couplings. Plus I've reworked Lima wagons purchased for less than 15 pounds, fitted with screw couplings and some wire handrails - at one show somebody what lovely wagons. So at a step at a time with breaking the bank, it's quite possible post-2828-0-53439500-1447884109.jpeg

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Interesting thread. I've scratch built buildings in O from cardboard - total cost 8 pounds, card, some wills embossed roof tiles (OO scale) painted with tester household paints. The results are left hand side in shot - Cafe Rene and the Epicerie fine. The station building behind the locos was two Bachmann cape cod plasticville cottages from a well known model shop in Liverpool - fiver each. Then cut and shut one on top of other. One of the BB67 locos in shot was 12 pounds at a bring and buy at a model show 6 years ago. Repainted after fitting with wire handrails from scrap box, and screw couplings. Plus I've reworked Lima wagons purchased for less than 15 pounds, fitted with screw couplings and some wire handrails - at one show somebody what lovely wagons. So at a step at a time with breaking the bank, it's quite possible attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

I've seen this layout in the flesh at local shows. I like it as it is a refreshing change from the more usual diet.

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Thanks very much for the comments and here's some more shots, the Paris bus in shot, bargain at 49pence 2 years ago - on a certain bidding website - no scale shown but I scaled it off another item in the bid site photo. Just finished a run of 5 shows this year, a break now with a possible one Oct next year.

 

Having a bash a BR o gauge on a shoestring - albeit bit of chequebook modelling has crept in a Heljan blue 31, offset mind by a blue class 33 - Lima machine much reworked - total cost 72 pounds, 38 for the loco 3 years ago - then 18 quid for bogie side frames, wire for handrails from scraps box, 3 pounds for flush glaze Windows and correct buffers a few pounds - only white metal heads, not sprung.

 

By the way, the fab steamer isn't mine, it's friends Steve Pilcher's - value of loco exceeds my total French rolling stock value!

 

Regards Paulpost-2828-0-48298500-1447969407.jpegpost-2828-0-88279700-1447969443.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

That layout looks wonderful Devonbelle. Very nicely done.

 

I've gone over this thread from the beginning again, and I've taken to heart the advice given here - several times this weekend I've found my fingers hovering over the "order" button on some O scale wagons kit or other.

 

Thankfully after reading all this, I've resisted the urge to click the button.

 

Instead, I've started a new project thread on seeing what I can build out of a box of wagon parts I managed to get on the marketplace here about a year ago.

 

I'm not buying anything else until I've exhausted the possibilities of these.

 

I've kind of been tempted to see about scratchbuilding a private owner wagon from plasticard and basswood, using only some slaters wheels as parts I've not built myself. We'll see how well this works out. :)

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You will be surprised how easy it is to make wagons from strip timber.

 

You will often find that HO scale timber is useful. Just remember that HO scale 24" x 12" is really just mis-labelled O scale 12" x 6" scale lumber. This is the most common size for timber underframes.

 

Fine brass pins make for good bolt heads. 1/4 angle brass makes good cornerplates for open trucks. The parts that you need to buy are wheels, buffers and couplings. Almost everything else you will need is easy to make from brass or styrene strips and angles.

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Has anyone got any tips for weighting down locos and rolling stock cheaply?

I've got a cardboard Peckett saddle tank in the works and am wondering how to improve the performance. :)

I've used rusty old nuts and bolts found in the garage.

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Thanks for the advice! :)

 

Where do you get your brass angle from, if you don't mind me asking?

 

Look around for 1/4" and 3/16" K&S brass angle. Not a lot of places still stock it. Cut the stuff on a 1/4" square piece of wood in a mitre block with a razor saw.

 

A good way to punch rivet or round bolt heads is to use a 2.5mm drill to start. You want the pointed tip to start removing a little metal, but you don't want to drill through. You want to get a 0.5-1.0mm round indentation in the brass. Then take a pointed piece of steel (spare slaters wagon axle is good for this) put one point in and tap it with a small hammer. One punched rivet/bolt head. However, there are much quicker and easier ways to do it. Tiny drops of thicken super-glue for example, or cutting up pieces of square rod and glueing them in place.

 

I often end us drilling a small holt right through and using the head of a fine brass pin. As the added advantage that it goes through the wood and strengthens the joint just like the prototype.

 

If you get super-keen you can order scale hardware, but this is getting a bit rediculous.

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Hi there,

 

Not sure if anyone has followed my starting in O gauge thread I created not to long ago but I had nothing in the way of tools/kits and have a real interest in O gauge. Much like this thread suggests I am keen to get involved in the gauge but don't want to splash loads of cash on tools and kits without knowing that this is really for me. I had lots of great advice and feedback regarding my mission and so I have recently invested some money into buying some tools and my first kit and will happily share with you the price to get me started (postage included):

 

Tools

 

Swann-Morton Handle and #11 Blade - £2.49    (Be aware I will need some more blades eventually but I feel I have invested in a good handle to use at the moment).

Humbrol 28ml Precision Poly Cement Glue Dispencer - £5.97 

Draper 63635 6-Piece 150 mm Soft-Grip Needle File Set - £6.57

 

First kit

 

7mm Wagon: Gloucester 5 Plank PO with side door - £32.59

 

So to get me started and working on a project, that for a complete beginner to this hobby, will take at least 3-4 months; I have spent a total of £47.62. No doubt I may need more tools as the project continues and I am not working on a layout but if you look at the size and detail of this model compared to buying say 2-3 OO gauge wagons of the same length on a layout the price is primarily the same, yet I have brought some tools as well. Don't forget I will need to buy some paint!

 

Dave

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I think to fill a given space (as opposed to over fill it) the cost of  7mm and 4mm is roughly the same. Although kits can be built either to a basic or a super-detailed level, and the further you go towards the latter the more the costs will rise. But even 4mm locos are not cheap now, with Dapol announcing an A4 for £399. You can get a O Gauge loco for less. (Admittedly not an A4 unless you are very lucky in the second hand market.) 

 

I suspect that on a 'fill a given space' basis the really expensive scale is N (or 2mm Finescale.)

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