Lets make those turnout kits we all have 4 mm & 7 mm

[hayfield]

John

 

Please feel free, Tony has added his work and on the sister thread there is a link to a building blog. As far as I am concerned the more the merrier. I would like both those who can build turnouts sharing their methods, also I think its worthwhile for those just starting out to show their work and if necessary obtain assistance

 

One thing I don't want to do is to frighten anyone away with overcomplicated items saying this is the only way to go. However as I said I will show a simple version of the Vee, I will be very happy for others to show different methods of construction that perhaps for some could used once they get some practice and built a bit of confidence.

[hayfield]

I was hoping to post a few photos, but having trouble downloading them. I will try and do it by adding the photos via my phone.

I have no short lengths of rail to make the common crossings from, so I cut a full length in half, simply because its easier to handle.

 

As you can see (once I load the photo) I clamp a length of rail to a scrap piece of timber and simply file it using a 10" medium cut file. Do quite a steep angle and test it in your jig, a couple of strokes at a time then test the angle. If you make a mistake then just cut it off and start again, you will soon get the hang of it

 

 

Now you can see both rails in the jig with the branch line splicing into the main line. The white card I use as a chock to hold both rails to the correct angle within the jig. I actually got the angles on both rails correct first time, just practice but most times takes a couple of tries. Normally close-up photos are quite cruel, quite pleased with this one but don't expect it perfect at the start.

[brossard]

Thanks John. I wrote up my construction of a SMP point kit to EM gauge in another forum. Two reasons: 1) I needed a test track and 2) I needed the practice. A method of making the vee jig comes, I think, from Iain Rice's book and involves tacking pieces of copper clad strip to a block of wood, thus:

 

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John

[hayfield]

I am having problems with mt Windows 7 program as its stopped up-loading and freezes the internet connection, so I am having to send the photos from my phone (this down sizes them) to my email. Then email back to my self so they are saved in the phones downloads as smaller photos. Then up load them to RMweb. I can then edit the post as its easier to type on the computer rather than the touch screen

 

 

This shot just shows the jig, solder and flux. So far I have used a large file, wire cutters, wet & dry paper and a soldering iron. No fancy tools to date. One thing I forgot in the last post is that once I solder the Vee one side I then turn it over and solder the other side as I want to tin the bottom (for photo after next process)

 

 

I did not need to do this as the joint was near perfect, but if you have a small gap just put a blob of solder on the join (be very quick as you don't want to un-solder the joint. Then just file the solder flat to produce a nice smooth continuous angle.

 

 

This photo shows the start of building the common crossing. I want to solder the wing rails to the Vee so it stays in gauge.

 

The rail is held about 1/2 a mm above the sleeper by the chairs, to keep all flat we need to use something the same thickness to keep all in place and in gauge. I used to use scrap brass shim from etched frets, but now I have run out. I now use the C&L 0.6mm thick double sided copperclad strip. I use 2 pieces at the start of the Vee (the 3rd piece is just to hold everything flat and is not soldered) which are placed over the sleepers which hides them, long enough for the wing rails to be soldered to them. They will be shortened and tidied up later. 

 

 

Once they are soldered together I then file flat the solder joints, thats why I tinned the bottom of the Vee. Be carefull when filing as you don't want to file off any copper covering 

[hayfield]

A very interesting announcement on the web is that C&L are taking over the distribution of OO-SF gauges. Whilst I was asked to build this turnout to OO gauge, I decided to build it to OO-SF (had no idea about this bit of news) There is very little difference in building between OO and OO-SF, just a couple of differences but will cover the fitting of check rails as per Gordons  Eastwood Town thread 

 

 

I cut 2 pieces of rail to length slightly longer than needed, I then mark and bend the first one, You will see several marks, first the bend, then where the Vee starts, next where the wing rail flares then the final length, I also bend the flare.

 

 

The second rail bent at the knuckle and flare. I now tin the bottom of both rails ready for the next step

 

 

This is my second jig. Its just a piece of copperclad sheet with a length of rail soldered to it.

The 2 pieces of copper clad strip at the ends are just to keep the rails flat. As you can see I have a straight strip of metal which goes over the thin copperclad strips, but holds the Vee and wing rail in line with each other ( the piece of rail is just a buffer which the metal rests against). I then have a wing rail gauge which keeps the gap between the wing rail and Vee at the correct distance. 1.2mm for 00, as I am building in OO-SF its 1mm which is the same as EM and solder the wing rail to the 2 pieces of copperclad.

 

Now look at it from the end to check the rail is vertical and not at an angle (adjust if it is), then check it over the plan  to ensure the bend at the knuckle is still at the correct angle

 

 

Just to show you the general arrangement after the flat bar has been removed

 

 

The second wing rail is added, check the angles against the plan, adjust if necessary. Then solder a third strip of copperclad to hold the crossing in gauge at the knuckle (over the sleeper).

 

I will finally finish off the crossing after I cut the rails to length (in case the joints come un-soldered) once the sleepers are stuck to the plan. So now put to one side for the time being.

 

As you can see its quite easy to build a common crossing, the only extra tool needed is a piece of metal as thick as the wing rail gap. The Jig is a nice extra but all you need is a straight edge to hold the wing rail in like with the Vee whilst its being soldered.

[hayfield]

For those who have a full kit you can now join it as the next steps are common to both types of kits. I use a building board and glue a plan to it, I then cover it with tracing paper which I attach the sleepers to (I can use the same plan again if needed), you could tape a plan to the board and just build off it. Or even glue it to the baseboard, whatever suits you



I have some double sided tape 11mm wide and I cut thin strips off it which are about 2mm wide. I just want enough tack to hold the sleepers in place, do what ever you want. I don't put tape where the tiebar is positioned.



Next you will see I use a straight edge to line up the sleepers. With Templot you can either have ends in line or timbers centralised. I use the latter for Y turnouts, but if you have a prototype that requires this then use it.



These are the sleepers in a C&L packet, more than enough for the longest turnout. They come in thin and thick depths, the latter will match up with RTR track. Sometimes you will need timbers slightly longer than supplied, I but join them under a chair, this not only hides the join but strengthens them. The smallest sleepers are a scale 8'6" so for OO gauge we need a few cut down which is very easy.

This is an Exactoscale fret, it has 62 sleepers and you get 3 frets in a packet for £7.50, it is only available in a thick size. Other benefits are there are some longer timbers (86mm) and each fret has a scale 14" timber for where the crossing nose goes. Like the C&L frets there are no 32mm sleepers, but its a very simple job to cut 2 32mm sleepers out of a long one. You can get between 5 and 6 turnouts from a packet, though only 3 x 14" sleepers.

If you have a Timber track fret, just tape it over the plan, if the sleeper spacings differ from the plan don't worry too much on a turnout, you can adjust the rail positions as you go. With a diamond or a slip providing you have a decent plan adjust the sleepers to match the plan at the 2 common crossings. I have found in the past a need to double check the point at which the common crossing sits.

If you are using ply strips (or copperclad strips for that matter) just cut the sleepers to length.

[brossard]

I think constructing the crossing "off point" is a good method - one I shall be using in the future. I always struggle to get everything aligned despite knowing what is required. Do you curve the diverging road rail of the vee? Not doing so has given me problems in the past.

 

John

[hayfield]

John

 

I pinched and adapted the idea of building the crossing this way using a metal bar from a piece of kit I bought at the Scaleforum at Aylesbury last year  http://ddw.coffeecup.com/. It is for P4 and I think for ply and rivet or copperclad construction, but it sparked an idea which works for me. I dont think you could build the common crossing in place using either plastic or ply sleepers, its also a lot easier in finishing it off (next instalment)

 

I was using a plece of wood with some square down glued to it with a hole for the copperclad strips to go through. All you need is a way of holding the first part wing rail and Vee in line whilst you solder the part of the wing rail to the copperclad strips at the correct distance apart. I guess it could be adapted further by clamping the main bar down and then  clamp another piece of metal the other side of the wing rail (the part not against the Vee) to keep both in place and leave both hands free, but that may be for later

 

As for the wing rails before the Vee, you have to look at the plan, smaller turnouts have curved rails the larger ones seem to be more or less straight. You must follow the plan, that's why after each thing I do I check against the plan.

[hayfield]

 

This photo shows how I finish the common crossing, I mark and cut to size the wing rails at both ends, then cut the copper clad strip back flush with the rails (I have only done one side to show the difference), At this point I do not trim the ends of the Vee

 

 

 

Here you can see the sleepers have been cut from their sprue, I used some long lengths (you get far more than you need) to cut the 32mm long sleepers.  What I have done (which is not prototypical and in fact the opposite of it) is to open out the sleeper spacings where both the rail joints are on the stock rails and where the switch rails join the wing rails, this is because I will be using fish plates and don't want them to foul the chairs

[hayfield]

The next 2 processes do not need to be done

 

 

I put a notch in both rails and solder etch fish plates under them in both stock rails to replicate the rail joins on the prototype. Curve the curved stock rail before cutting the notch to avoid kinks in the rail

 

 

As this is a GWR style turnout I have joggled the stock rails where the switch rails touch them, very few companies used this so unless you know that it is right skip this step. To make a joggle just put a piece of scrap brass fret either side of the rail (at the place where the switch rail first touches) and squeeze in a vice, 

 

 

I like to fit the common crossing first, to start with I just glue the first and last pair of chairs, if I have made a mistake all I have to do is to lift both sleepers, slide them off. replace them on the plan, slide 4 new chairs on and start again

 

You will see how I have fitted  the chairs to the rail.

 

 

A close up at the common crossing where 2 chairs are missing, these gaps are there to allow the check rail to be fitted

 

 

A close up at the switch end showing the  switch rail chairs missing

[hayfield]

Before fitting the chairs you need to dress the foot of each rail so the chairs fit easily. Firstly to remove burrs, then to make a slight chamfer to aid the threading

 

 

This shot shows the chairs being fitted, I find it easier to thread them when they are still on the sprue but that's not always possible. Make sure that the keys on the chairs are on the outside of the rails and facing the correct way

 

 

In the previous photo you can see that where space is tight there is not room for both chairs, The prototype uses either smaller or special chairs, with these kits you have to trim both chairs to fit

 

 

As I said in the previous post I fit the vee first, then the stock rails. I have tacked the first and last pairs of chairs initially

 

Others will start with the straight stock rail then fit the common crossing with gauges

 

Another method that has been described is to fit the common crossing first, then fit the check rails (you need check rail gauges for this) finally fitting the stock rails.

 

There is no right or wrong way of doing it, use the method that suites you.

[hayfield]

 

I now tack the stock rail in place, I use gauges to set the stock rail and glue the 2 chairs opposite both ends of the common crossing where the gauges are, I also glue the chair at the heel of the turnout, this is by eye.

 

 

Once I have let the solvent set I use a straight edge to check the stock rail is straight, once I am happy it is then glue the 3 chairs I have marked by the 3 blue arrows. Leave these to set and then if all is OK then glue the rest of the chairs including those on the common crossing.

 

The first stock rail is now fitted

[hayfield]

As for the first stock rail if you are going to cut a notch and solder a fishplate on to it , do this after bending the rail to shape. Before threading the chairs on on the curved stock rail put a slight bend in the rail with pliers at the set point (just before where the switch rail touches it) to start the turn (even if you have put a joggle in.

 

 

Using a gauge glue the first two chairs on and let set, as this needs to be perfectly straight

 

 

Once the other end has set do the same with this end, glue the chairs using gauges

 

 

Before glueing the central chairs make the first switch blade. A simple mark on the rail and or on the wood to show the length of the taper required. Once finished now with a set of pliers just bend the taper straight

 

 

Once the first side is done the simple method is to do the same on the other side, I prefer to file the head of the rail only leaving the foot intact. I use a triangular file for this just because I am used to using it. and finish it off with a finer file and wet and dry

 

 

Just a couple of photos of the finished blade

 

 

 

 

Showing the two smaller files I use.

 

The number of tools I have used to date are quite limited, most of which you should have for other modelling activities, as well as a large file a decent 6" one comes in handy for finer work. The only specilist tools I have used to date are a couple of gauges and a couple of jigs which can simply be a piece of card and a steel straight edge.

[Clive Mortimore]

Hi John

 

I notice your files do not have handles on them. Surely as you seem to be using this thread to teach other modellers the art of track making, in the interest of safety they would be better with handles. If your hand slips and file remains stationary, the tail, which should be in the handle can cause quite a bit of damage when it enters the palm of your hand.

 

Not only fitting handles on the files safer but you have more control of a file with a handle than trying to hold it by the tail.

 

I was trained to use files as part of my bench fitting skills as an apprentice and again in the REME. Later I became a nurse and worked on a plastic surgery, hand injury ward.

[Clive Mortimore]

Mickey

 

I was trained as a CEGB apprentice and we were taught ALWAYS have a handle on a file. How can you hold a file correctly and use it correctly without a handle?

 

Have you seen the damage a file used incorrectly can do to a hand? In through the palm, number 3 and 4 metacarpals compound fractures, both extensor tendons snapped and a hole in the back of the hand. Over 12 hours of surgery. The chap then had extensive physio for 5 months. He was a self-employed courier and lost a lot of business being unable to drive. He and I got on well when he was a patient as we had a common interest in model making, his was radio controlled cars.

[Mod4]

Gents 

 

Please keep to the OP rather than dismissing the sensible and practical advice regarding best and safe practice with files.

[martin_wynne]

we were taught ALWAYS

 

Hopefully you were also taught to use your own noddle. For model work a proper wooden file handle often gets in the way. A solution is to wrap the tang with several wraps of masking tape.

 

The biggest danger in trackmaking is when building track on a separate board. Often you will lift the board to your face to eye along the rails to check the alignment. If you leave a needle file unnoticed on the track, it can slide down and hit you in the eye. Been there, got the T-shirt. Lucky that day -- didn't do it again.

 

Martin.

[hayfield]

Hi John

 

I notice your files do not have handles on them. Surely as you seem to be using this thread to teach other modellers the art of track making, in the interest of safety they would be better with handles. If your hand slips and file remains stationary, the tail, which should be in the handle can cause quite a bit of damage when it enters the palm of your hand.

 

Not only fitting handles on the files safer but you have more control of a file with a handle than trying to hold it by the tail.

 

I was trained to use files as part of my bench fitting skills as an apprentice and again in the REME. Later I became a nurse and worked on a plastic surgery, hand injury ward.

Clive

 

A very good point you have raised. I must admit to not owning any file handles, Thought about it and should buy some.

 

In my defence as the items being filed are clamped down when using the big file I have been taught to file one way and lightly letting the file do the work, but the big ones pointy end is 5mm wide !!.

 

The smaller one's end fits nicely into my palm (will do what Martin advised) its end is 4 mm x 3 mm and as I don't want to file off the foot of the rail I am very gently filing. The rail is clamped but I file one handed as my left hand is holding the rail end. Point taken though don't do what I do, please use handles on all your tools. I will get some at the next show I go to

[hayfield]

Hopefully these photos are a bit clearer

 

I have cut the switch rail to length and glued the half (common crossing side of the rail break) the remaining chairs on the curved stock rail lining them up by eye over the plan

[trustytrev]

Hello,

       

and as I don't want to file off the foot of the rail I am very gently filing.

 

A file with a safe edge(smooth) as shown in post#73 makes that a lot easier.(Arte et Marte)

trustytrev.

[hayfield]

Trustytrev

 

The safe edge is very good for using the foot of the rail as a guide when filing the head to a point, but as I said I use my left hand for holding the blade (sometimes without using the clamp), what you don't see is the pointed end of this file which sometimes ended in the palm of my hand. May have a safe edge but not a safe end!

[hayfield]

 

I have cut the switch to length, threadded the chairs on. I then use the Exactoscale plastic fish plates to join the switch rail to the common crossing. Because some of the chairs have to be trimmed to fit I only put 8 chairs on the switch rail. 5 are put in position over sleepers but the last 3 (which have to be trimmed) are left in the gaps between sleepers waiting to be trimmed. I should have fitted the slide chairs but I always leave the last two until after I have soldered the tiebar to the switch rails

 

 

After sticking the first 5 chairs to the sleepers you need to trim back chairs on the stock and switch rails

 

 

I use off cuts of sleepers to cut the yet to be stuck chairs to fit the gap after trimming the chairs on the stock rails

 

 

A bit delayed but I first superglue the slide chairs to the stock rails then use solvent to stick the chairs to the sleepers

 

 

Next is to cut and fit the check rails. Cut to size, mark the flairs at each end of the rails and bend. I slide 2 chairs on for the 4 sleeper check rails and 3 chairs for 5 sleeper check rails. I have also cut 2 chairs in half which will go where the 2 missing chairs on the stock rails,

 

Looking at gauges, for OO gauge use roller gauges  for all switch rails. For OO-SF roller or 3 point gauges for the straight switch rail and 3 point for the curved rail, Bottom left (grey piece of rail) this is a gauge from an old SMP kit. 16.5mm wide but I never use it as a track gauge but it is 1.2mm thick and is spot on for check rail gap

 

 

For OO-SF you have to use the check rail gauge, For OO gauge you can use these but also you can use a 1.2mm flat bar as in the photo and gauge the stock rail with a roller gauge (no need for 3 point gauges in OO)

 

As you can see the check rail simply fits in place where the 2 chairs are missing (sometimes these and the 2 on the stock rail may have to be trimmed if they catch), The cosmetic chairs can now be stuck on

[trustytrev]

Hello,

Hopefully you were also taught to use your own noddle.

 

A prerequisite of the REME

Hopefully you were also taught to use your own noddle. For model work a proper wooden file handle often gets in the way. A solution is to wrap the tang with several wraps of masking tape.

 

Nobody mentioned wood.

trustytrev.

 

[hayfield]

To finish off the common crossing. It's just a matter of fitting a few half chairs exactly as I have done with the check rails



What you will see is that I have fitted a crossing nose chair (light brown one) as they are quite distinctive, I had as a spare one. If building the kit as standard just fit a standard half chair

I have added a photo of a set of Exactoscale common crossing chairs. Not much use for GWR 2 bolt chairs other than using the crossing nose chair and rather than splice 2 normal chairs together  (in the common crossing)you can use the central parts of the crossing chairs

 

[Michael Woolford]

John, I think the topic below would be of use for those looking at building curved turnouts.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=45544

 

Michael